EuroDat

If everything is still bolted up nice, no loose bolts, bent rod or such. Your not loosing brake fluid, then it will most likly be the primary seal in the master cylinder leaking and not giving you enough travel to disengage the clutch. You could also try the advice in the posts above and give classiczcars.com a try. Chas

I would go with John's first option. Test the car on a quiet road with the original PV. Then if the balance is not right, strip the guts out of it and fit an adjustable somewhere where you can get to it and not in the car where temptation to play with it is at its highest. Your PV is located above the diff which wont effect the dual system. If its on the firewall (like the 260 & 280z) you should remove it completly and fit unions. Stripping the guts out of the 260/280z type removes the safety features of a due brake system and makes the brake warning switch useless. Might not be legal. Remember: the system you replaced had a complete engineering R&D department team working on the design. Your on your own with this so take your time to get it right.

Have you tried downloading the FSM and doing the diagnostic tests on the ignition system? See link for manual http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It has quite a good section for testing this. The only real tuning you can do on the OEM system is a variable 20kohm resistor in the temp sensor for the efi. Then you can adjust the fuel/air mixture over the hole rev range. Its a better mod than playing with the AFM spring tension. I have a 77 280z with ballast resistor. Didnt know a 280z came without... Chas

Why are you "upgrading"? Is it for looks or are your brakes not performing as well as you want. If its for looks, then go ahead, but if its because you want better brakes you should first think of this. Many Z owners "upgrade" because the original is very old and not performing good. They upgrade and say, wow now they work great, but they are comparing an old worn out system with everything new. I chose to rebuild my standard system and for street it works great. No need to mess around trying other wheels and such. All the wheels for the Z will fit no problems. -New rotors, cross drilled and slotted -Calipers chemically cleaned, new seals and new pistons -New wheel cylinders and shoes for rear, lightly machined the drums just to make sure they are round and no big waves in them -Stainless steel braided brake lines -New master cylinder and proportioning valve. Here are some links on this issue http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47901.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42542.html Chas

I know the campany (Brabant alucast) next to where I work do that with the oilpans, crankcases, turbo's etc. http://www.brabantalucast.com/plants/the-netherlands-site-oss.html They use the numbers for QC to trace batches for recall etc. The numbers on the back of the L28 heads would be for a similar purpose. Chas

The numbers on the end are most probably casting numbers used for batch registration and tracability. The head type number is on the side Between first and second sparkplugs. Here is a link that explains the major differences between the heads. http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ Chas

I use this site to calculate what I needed http://ledcalc.com/ To give you an idea I ended up using 35 1500mcd super brite leds (with 30deg reflection angle) per brake light and a extra resistor to drop the voltage for the parklight function. Works fine but you need to remove the lenses to mount the circuit board. Note: The smaller the reflection angle the brighter the LED. If you use 60deg angle the light will be weaker because its disperced over a wider angle. Sucess