hondabait

so anyone willing to sell a setup?

One more dumb thing. Is detination(ping) related to load? Hypethetically you have a motor with a disconeted ignition advance and your motor is on the edge of pinging. Will an increase in load cause it to ping?

Wouldn't the combination of a high spinning turbo and the quick shutting of the throttle on a draw through setup make a spike in vacum in the intake and a spike in pressure in the manifold. I thought it was these spikes in pressure that destroy turbo's. Wouldn't it still need a BOV or atleast BOV in reverse between the carb and turbo to limit vacum or maybe both? dumb question I know.

Yes I figured it out but don't ask me how. That was months ago. But If you are still having problems I can help if you pm me. I'm nothing too special with electronics but I managed all the info is out there but sorting it out and finding it is difficult.

I noticed the pump/rack clearance problem. The exhaust/footwell doesn't seem to be a problem with my aftermarket headers. And I guess I should get a good balancer so I need to make room for that. Any pics on the rack fix? I got everything off the motor and trans. Tomorrow they're coming out seperatly but then again I don't want to damage the input shaft, so maybe I should take it out in one piece. Though the trans seems light enough for me to take out by my self. Is it wise to bench press a 5-speed out or will I damage the input shaft? I've benched heavy as heck automatics but those have torque converters that you unbolt first and bolt on last. Thanks.

Thanks Rontyler for the link. I did not know about all the interference problems. I will have to do more research on how to solve those problems but in the meanwhile I'll just get the motor out. Thank you dragon fly for the info but I just have one more question. Is it better to remove the transmission before removing the engine or not? I think I'll have to take off the trans to get the engine out but I just want a second opinion. Thanks.

I did not know that, what is the exact percentage front and rear? The thing is I'm going to pull the motor to do some cleaning on it and a few other things to it, and the chassis, while it's out. While I was at it I was going to push the motor back and have my drive shaft shortened. Also if someone would be so kind as to tell me what parts of the engine to hook the chains of my cherry picker to it would be helpful. Thanks.

Is it possible to push the engine back in a 260? I noticed enough room to set it back about 3 to 4 inches. Has anyone done this or thought about doing this?

mom'sz wrote: Roger at the Zbarn taught me how to identify the 5 speeds by looking at the tail shaft area. The early 5 speeds like those that came in a 280z have a steel collar around the end of the tail shaft (where the driveshaft comes out) The later 5 speeds like those that came in a 280ZX don't have the steel collar, that area is just plain cast aluminum. BTW he also told me the 79 ZX came with the earlier style and the later style wasn't available until 1980. I assume this is correct?

I bought my crap brown 74 260 with a 5 speed but with the 2.6 and I'm pretty sure the stock rearend. how do I know what type of 5 speed I have??? are there more than 2 types??? And please don't say go 140 and see how many rpm's you turn.

I thought of this a long time ago but I thought it was far fetched. Then I saw that it's been done by alot of people. I really want upper and lower control arms in the rear of my s30 but the s13's and s14's rears look like a birds nests. Since when did irs become so complicated? I think I counted 4 seperate bars connecting the hub to the frame on 4 seperate axises(or is plural axi). It seems like if you were to replace all the rubber bushings in the arms with steel ones it wouldn't move at all because it depends on the flexing and elasticity of the rubber bushings. That makes me think those rears have a lot of slop and are unpredictable. Is it a good swap and nissan knew what they were doing or is there another option I should look into?

Is there a simple distributor/map/ait instalation procedure?

Is it possible to run a small ic behind the driver side wheel in the wheel well? Would a electric fan mounted to it make it possible?

I think fwd is better for blind corners but I know datsun had a factory z rally car. you can find pics of it on the official nissan site.

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/87560,8519,0,0/photo.aspx that car should of been the new Z.

Ok, so I need a little help and I'm sure you guys will love this idea, save money, heck maybe even make some money. So I'm sure everyone knows you can turn your electric meter backwards by puting electricity in to your house but the initial cost is scary...but...yes I found the but. You can do it for REAL cheap. CS-130, CS-130d or CS-144 alternators are all self exciting and internally regulated that in conjuction with a windmill, a battery and (for lack of the real term) a reverse rectifier to turn dc to ac is all you need. So want I know is all "CS" alts are self exciting(PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong!!) so there is no need for the old style generators and since alts make more power at low rpm's they are ideal and even have a better efficency(62%>60%). My question is that some cs's have one wire, two wires and even four wires, one and two wire types(the second for the sense wire) can easily be made to work but are not so redily available. On the four wire type can the other two wires just be left disconnected and the alternator still function correctly??? Heck, I'll even post pics and plans while I build it. I know if any group of people can help it's the hybridz guys:icon10: Thanks

Have you ever heard of reverse pressure bleeding?? It's cool as heck. Get a hose and a well cleaned 2 litre bottle, drill a hole in the cap and JB weld the hose in, fill bottle with fluid, attach to open nipple at wheel, hold upsidedown and squeeze. forces air up not down and costs nothing. ofcourse you should pressure bleed/flush it normally first to get the particles to go out though the bottom then do this to get the air to go out through the top.

what is the bolt pattern and stock offset of the s30? Any how much do the supra wheels weigh?

Unless you want to make a diy pressure bleeder this works just as well, but your quick foot work determines if you can get out giant air bubbles. Two peices of clear tubing about a foot long each, 1 little hose clamp, a one-way valve and a cup to catch the crap that comes out. Loosen the nipple then close it finger tight. Attach hose to nipple and clamp it on, attach one-way valve to hose flowing away from the brake and attach other hose and put it in the cup. Loosen the nipple and keep the master cylinder toped off and away you go. This way differs from what some people say in that you use a one way valve and you have none of that closeing and opening of the nipple or any help from a friend. Heck I used vacuum lines and the master cylinder one-way valve from the car it self so It doesn't cost you anything.

im curious too. how exactly do the hydralic e brake work. if it had a one way valve the brakes would never reopen.

well performance.... I just figured a lower center of gravity would be better(not too low). and if the cups can fit them I see no down side but there probably is one. I don't have the money for any new performance springs but say like if the 280zx had shorter front springs I could go to the salvage yard and get some. .............I'm probably being retarded about this and you're probably right but I thought haveing soft springs, large sway bars, and loads of rebound dampening was the way to set a car up, please please please correct me. I need help on this subject. thankyou

On some cars you can and some you cant. You can when then end you cut(top or bottom) has the cup for cut type coils and not the tightly wound ones. Stupid question but can I just cut the springs in my 1st gen z and if so do I cut the tops or the bottoms? .... stupid questions are better than stupid mistakes.

has anyone ever put r34 fenders on a 1stgen Z??

I just did a 280zx alt swap into my 260z every thing fits perfect except I had to get a little longer belt. ok so my problem is when I connect the battery with the key off I hear a click from beneath the glove inside the cockpit(i think) and that means some of the juice is being used to power that relay while the car is parked and sure enough if I leave it like that over night the battery is dead. I followed the instructions connecting the white to yellow and the black/white to white/black at the deleted external voltage regulator and even did the diode thing to stop it from "running on".I read somtwhere there is somthing different you have to do on a 260 somthing about the lockout or somthing, has anyone else had this problem??? http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

I think veritech was right If you fliped them left to right and turned them around(right rear to front left) They may look better since from what I got from looking at bunch of pics of them the front flares are wider so they might look better on the back.