hondabait

on the fenders or what??

my crappy photo shop

off topic but has any one made floating windows for an old z. you know the kind of windows that don't have a frame, I just thought that always looked so classy.

I seen like 3 Supra Celicas at the junkyard today and thought their flares kinda looked good. They're detatchable and round but have a square-ish opening. I don't think they would be that hard to mold on to a car. Has anyone done this before? Does anyone have a pic? There's even a couple old Z's there too I think If I cant find a pic I'll have to hold them up to the Z's and take a pic myself.

has any one ever tried welding on porsche 944 fenders? Or fcRx7 fenders? you know for that r34gtr look?

I hope this works out good for us because I want one. And maybe a one piece panel with no lip or any thing for tail lights so skyline lights sit flush in big flat areas...one can dream...

Oh. huh. I'm retarded. My amp gauge is always showing negitive amps, But when I ground the stator, Jump a hot wire to the rotor and put my own old amp gauge between the stator output(power from alt) and the batery it shows I have like 30+amps. I took my voltage regulator out and lengthened all the wires to mount it somewhere more excesible and to see if I could find out my problem and I found the stator ground relay in it to not be working. soooo..... Could I take any Linear type external regulator from any car and wire it where the old one is??? Thank you Thank you Thank you http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc46/hondabait/74_260z_manual_wire2.gifIf any one wants a good 74 260Z wiring diagram schematic.

it's a early 74' 260z and my Hayes manual wireing schematic says where it is in the wireing harness but says nothing in the whole book about where it is physically located or the procedure to replace it. I spent an hour taking my speedo out just to find out the light on it is for the ebrake. do you know which gauge the alternator light is mounted in?? or if it is located on the center console(this car has gone through some owners and some of the lights on the center console are gone)? Thanks, sorry about the lack of info.

I have a charging system problem and I elimintated the posibility that it was the alternator, and internally my stock liniear voltage regulater looks brand new. But I'm finding out that the idiot(alternator)light is a serious part of the priming system for the alternator. So do I take the little screw out from above the speedo gauge and pull the instriment out that way(cuz it aint wanting to come out) or do I have to dig under the dash(which conector would it be?)? Also my voltage regulator has two wires white/blue and whit/red where black/white and black/yellow should be and because they're not the same I don't know which one is which. Also am I correct in saying the yellow wire to the alt from the regulator is the rotor power and the white/black is the stator ground(I got these mixed up when I disconected the from the plastic plug.)? Thanks

Napa told me it was dead:icon50:.... Well call me Dr. Frankenstein cuz I'm gonna bring the girl back to life:flamedevi, or learn somthing while failing. My check failed and so did Napa's and so I ordered new brushes and they gave me the wrong ones so I'm waiting on the right ones. So I put it back together and made me a the Most redneck aternator tester ever. http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc46/hondabait/GetAttachment.jpg Sooo.. Im geting a conection between the rotor and stater,[so I don't need new brushes] I don't think they should be conected or the rotor would only have a + wire only. Or am I wrong? does the rotor energizer run on amps or volts and how much is nesacery to prime the alternator for current to flow from the stator???

I know its not ole skool but when are you gonna slap an sr20 and six speed in her?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-Weber-Dellorto-Mikuni-triple-carbs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34198QQihZ016QQitemZ260166174536QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW how high should i bid on them if at all?

I bought my 260 and it had a smog pump but that was already gone along with the throtle opener control valve and servo diaphram(throttle decel opener). The inlet to the egr was plugged(good thing to cuz the water temp activated solenoid valve is stuck open). And my intake manifold water passenges are plugged too. Do I need the water to flow through my intake mani??Or is it better that it doesn't Do I need an EGR for engine longevity??? Can I delete the flame trap(vacuum activated air bypass to limit backfire at decel)??? Or will excess backfire on decel hurt my exhaust valves??? :newbie:Thanks

im praying my brakes r ok

10 quart oil pan

the head says e88, I checked. If anyone has a crappy one and a few bucks I would trade them if they wanted a great start on a "resto mod". I just want a track "fun" car with good paint and no interior so I'd feel like an ass for doing it to this one. The way it sits now screams Burt Renolds. Gold rims and trim with metalic rootbeer brown paint.... you copy snow man.

I don't know if the slave or clutch fork moves at all but by the total lack of resistance I doubt it. All the fluid from sitting for 18 years was gone when I bought it, just a black residue was left in the reservoir I will check at first light to be sure about the slave.

not stock cam, not stock headers, not stock 5-speed, 2 piece rims, never used spare, great carpet and head liner, crazy louvered hood, whale tail, oil cooler, and 10 quart aluminum oil pan, thick yellow sway bars(I wonder if there stock), Malory box type coil. But an e88 head. Pretty good for a grand ehh??? It runs dead silent too, no ticking of the cam like Iv'e heard they do.

I bought my z recently and there is a little red plaque on the valve cover saying "3/4 cam" and under it saying "set valve lash to ....." I forget the rest. Is this stock for a early 260 z??? And does anyone have a pick of a stock ex mani of the same model, mine doesn't look stock unless 3 to 2 to 1 long style was stock.

the rubber slave hose is almost trash, I can find no leaks anywhere, but I think the cylinder is the culprit but It would have to be really bad to have no resistance at all right???

I get no resistance from my clutch pedal. the rod from the pedal looks ok. there is fluid coming from the master cylinder and fluid at the slave cylinder. I thought It was a matter of bleeding so i did that and I have still no clutch resistance. Mind you this car hasn't seen the street since 1989 and I just bought it. Does it need a rebuild kit or a whole new master cylinder and where would I get those??

I had the same thought last week. It would atleast make a killer show car.

allot of things are beyond my ability but that doesn't stop me from falling on my face.....errr...suceeding!!! no but really do you know where I could get a complete blowthrough kit at??? thanks

sooooo helpfull thanks! didn't know that the rear bumper was even 3 peices(rubber over my conections I guess) I started striping off all the old rotting rubber off the front till I get new stuff and in the meanwhile I put small caridge bolts through the holes where the rubber screwed through. It looks mean as hell, I think I may keep it like that. It's not possible to compress the front shocks till I get the 240 brackets???