quicker240
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Posts posted by quicker240
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Ishimaru (round stone) Naoki(straight tree) .I kinda like it
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oops,wrong car,was just looking at the road race car
nice 1978? 2k to 4k somewhere -
Not to disagree with everyone,but it is sooo easy to spend WAY more than this amount of money on a car with these kinds of parts.Hell,a good chevy road race motor with all the goodies can cost more than that.tube chassis,wilwoods,16 custom wheels,paint ,flares,tires,gauges,fuel cell,pumps,metal fab,race seat,etc,etc,etc.Not that I want to buy it personally,but these are not as crazy numbers as some are making them out to be....
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list price 430.00 part #mht491 .same as otc part #otc-6490.my cost around 275.00.I also noticed KD tools lists a master set #kdt3531.I have no price on this one but their stuff is usually a bit cheaper.
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any tool truck(I run a Mac tool truck),Can get you an individual tap or die for this.Takes about a week to get it.There are also on the car press tools available that would work without removing the whole assembly.That being said,I did mine with a 12 lb. slide hammer without any problems,but the bearings have come apart doing them with a slidehammer in the past.Pressing them out is the best method,either on the car using a bearing press(commonly called a "hub shark")or off the car with a shop press.Good luck!
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I am interested in drifting also.I already have the arizona setup on my car and even with 250lb springs it is pretty stiff.I too have many years of autocrossing experience and I can very much see how the setups would be similar.If you have no experience drifting(which I dont),I would recommend some autocrossing to you.Get a feel for having the car crossed up a bit in a controlled environment,then make some spring and suspension choices based on what you learn there.I dont think you'll get flamed here for having an interest in this new venue.It looks like damn big fun to me,if not a bit expensive for tires that I'm guessing wont last very long.I from experience would think 300-350 lb spring rates would be more than adequate,as well as an adjustable rear sway bar setup.How much slip the rear tires give will also be a determining factor.Dont get hung up on the numbers just because someone else is using them.You will find that your taste is your own.
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I live by some advise I got from a friend once upon a time,"Theres no such thing as the perfect woman,you just have to find one with an amount of crazy you can live with".Best advise I ever got! Nobody is perfect,you or her.Just try to make the best choice you can based on the info at hand.If you really love her then no effort is too great or expense too high,but if you are unsure in ANY way,suck it up and move on.Free advice is worth what you paid for it.Best of luck,you're gonna need it!
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ah yes,and lets not forget the Mitsu 4G63.I have one in a galant vr4 but they are a dime a dozen in lasers,eagle talons,plymouths etc.make about 200 hp stock and have huge aftermarket support.I think it would make for quite a nasty Z car if pushed with bigger cams and huffer.
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I think RPMS is still close.You'll have 5k in the engine,the rest in mounts,cables,brackets,exhaust,electrical,while I'm at its...,Tires,better brakes,fuel lines,gauges,new shifter,bigger radiator,electric fans,hoses,gonna need an alternator aint cha?custom driveshaft,should I go on?
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That is a very well executed hybrid.He has taken influence from Ferrari,Datsun,Chevy,Kit cars,with a touch of Boom box thrown in for good measure.I could'nt have done it better myself.Really excellant piece of work!!
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This is a site dedicated to making cars faster.PERIOD! While we may not agree with the choice of weapon that the younger crowd uses,who are we to judge? I have said before that if you want to hop up your Yugo,more power to you!,I appreciate the effort if not the execution.At the NOPI thing here a while back,there were a gazillion hondas,vws,nissans,toyotas,etc etc,most all running 15 to 18 sec 1/4 miles.My little hybrid going mid 11's made some mouths drop open,no doubt,but I was not the fastest car there,not by a long shot! A black VW jetta w/a huge turbo went low 10s and a Supra went 9s I think.WAY out of my league!!.Any car can be made fast with the right person behind the wrench.I personally try not to underestimate the smarts of some of these Ricers.They're getting quick at an alarming rate and the market is catering to them.I say watch your back boys.Just my .02 cents worth....
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I go along with the Idea of looking the car over really well first also.Sounds like you have a very solid platform to work with.That being said,Step 2 needs to be setting up a budget and an order of operations,including a timeframe that fits your life.You can spend a fortune paying someone else to do it all,or spend some time learning from experienced people and utilize the connections on parts and advise you will find here.The assets of Hybrid Z can be your best friend if you use them wisely.I highly recommend you attend a couple of Z events before you do to much else.Some really smart people have done cool things to Z cars.You just have to choose which ideas work best for you.Best of luck with your project,be careful though,Z cars are HIGHLY addictive.
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OK then Vince,whats the story?give us an approximate price and when might we be able to get some?I have a car in paint jail right now that could benefit from these,I may need a 2nd set of taillight panels also.Hmmmm,the hood looks nice too,hatch is pretty sweet...Console.....Somebody just kill me please,I'm out of control
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Just wondering what temp you want to really run at.Obviously the lower the better but the reason I ask is that many,most,fuel injected cars according to manufacturers anyway,should run over 200 degrees.Many only activate fans at these relatively high temps.Promotes better combustion,emissions,blah blah blah......Also the place where you are reading temps may also be contributing.Are you picking up at the thermostat housing as a stock setup? What I dont like is that even when you kick on pumps fans and all,it continues to heat up.Not a good sign.I hope the mech pump isolates the problem for you.With your setup,you should be able to control temps at will.The only time I encountered a problem like this,I had wired my electric fan backwards,It was blowing through the radiator instead of pulling air.Soon as I started moving good,the car slowly overheated,when I stopped,It would cool down some,but not enough.I felt so stupid..... Good luck with it.May the problem be something simple and stupid like mine was
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Whats most amazing to me is he is doing all that with basically the stock rear end and half shafts.I continue to wonder what the limit really is on that stuff.1.40 60' times are awsome.I would love to see some vids of this car leaving the line.Smooth like yours Scotty? Gotta love the GN turbo and 3500 stall setup.Streetable and nasty at the track.You guys better watch out for Brody,T76 on SBC coming along....
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I had a 260z once that stalled the same way.Turned out to be the electrical part of the ignition switch.Tach and car would just go stone dead and immediately crank right back up.Take off the cover and wiggle the wires goin into the switch next time it goes dead,or borrow a nother switch from somebody.Its a quick and easy check either way.Good luck!!
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Rats,I have a r200vlsd.Thought I had the R230.
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around here,they charge maround 300 bucks to install a 2 post lift.I would let a pro do the install if it were me.Just get somebody reputable and let them at it.Its much less of a headache and faster to boot.
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Its obviously totalled dude,what you take for that used engine?I got a new Hybrid in mind........
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I bow to this hybrid god.If I had an unlimited budget,theres not much I would do different than that totally STUNNING car.Just awesome
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YOU ARE JEALOUS!!!
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How bad do you want recaros? I have a pair in my car I was thinking of replacing with sparcos.......
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Engine combo sounds nice.AFR's should do the job!! For what its worth,I have a 400 .040 over (408 cu in I think).I set up a window switch to come in at 3000 rpm and shut off at 5800.This lets the car get moving a bit before the spray hits it.It runs 11.9 on the motor,11.4 w/100 shot.Still 1 legged in back but does consistent 1.7 60' with nitto drag radials@ 30psi.Just some numbers to play with.Good luck with your rebuild.
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I have the AZC 5 lug kits on my car.Anyone who knows me will tell you I don't baby this car either.I have had no trouble whatsoever with brakes since I put them on, performance wise anyway.I did however,have a few issues getting it all installed.Instructions that came with the kit were sorely lacking in detail and there was a fair amount of grinding and fitting to get it all working.The rotors are starting to show some hotspots after some use also.The brake lines need some finesse to get plumbed in and bleeding the system is just a pain in the ass.And by the way,I think my American racing wheels kick ass!! A ford ranger offset worked best for me.
nice 1978? 2k to 4k somewhere
I bow to this hybrid god.If I had an unlimited budget,theres not much I would do different than that totally STUNNING car.Just awesome
SU Carbed motor choking out in the cold weather at high load
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
May be jumping to conclusions a little bit as the symptom you described could be attributed to any number of things.But a quick inspection of the float chamber on both carbs is quick and easy.check that your floats hav'nt sank and the shut off valve is properly adjusted (about 14mm as I recall).Change the damper oil and check for smooth movement of the big pistons by pushing them up with your finger and releasing it.if all is well,you might have another problem(points,a bad plug wire,worn dist cap or rotor,etc,etc).these carbs are pretty sturdy and temp changes dont usually cause the kind of problems you are seeing.Good luck with it!