Zmanj87

Ya it was reading at 12.3 charge on it but while trying to crank it over it would drop dramatically down to about 8. So I went to Advance and got them to do a load test and they said it pretty much needed a recharge. So it's going to charge overnight and I'll update if it cranks over tomorrow "cross fingers"

So I went to try to start the Z and it doesnt want to crank over the starter starts to click. So I figured the battery must be dead So I hooked jumper from my Honda to the car then turned the Honda on and tired it again. When I go to turn the car on it just keeps struggling to crank over but doesn't die out. The volt meter shows my battery has a full charge on it at 12v's so I'm kinda dumb founded. The only recent work Ive done on it was replacing the AFM plug which I've had issues since then but the car still turned on tho. Also another question is there a certain way to check the OHms on the ECU wire Pins? I'm trying to check pins 6 and 8 but I'm getting nothing registered and all im doing is turning the car power on, putting the red prob in the 6 pin slot and the black prob on the datsun trim on the car.

I believe the hose that is disconnected goes into the check Valve right?

Just wondering if this is a big deal? Seems like it was cut by the previous owner.. Edited: figured out that 75 280zs didn't come with a Coolant reservoir =).

you know what I think its P/N 16578-N4200 since mines a 75 and the part reference I got was from a guy who owned a 78 280z. Thanks again Zed!

I need to replace the AFM to Throttle Boot since I just recently found a nice tear in it. I have a hook up on Nissan parts at a dealership and was wondering if anyone know's the part number? I'm looking for the one with the nipple on it "Valve cover vent hole" I want to see if it will be cheaper going that way rather then getting a new one from the web. I've come across a couple different part numbers tho I don't know which the right one is p/n 16578N4201 P/N: 16578-N4710

I'll try jiggling the wires and seeing but as for grounding no they did no the only wire I took off that was grounded was the one thats connected to the AFM mounting plate thats seem to be for another part near the AFM and I put that right back where it went. It sits and idles fine like I said when I try to start driving it thats when It acts up. I think Zed is right and its running lean because the ECU isn't registering the afm. I ordered a volt meter and will post my results wednesday. Is there a useful reference on how to test the ECU connectors and what readings I should be getting?

Ill check that out as well thanks zed. Just to note the car ran fine before I replaced it. Reason I swapped the plug was because the old one was had a loss connector in the plug and would cause the car to hiccup . So could it be a bad wiring job on my part?

ya I'll check now it's idling fine at 1000 rpm's but it shuts off on me when I put it in 1st gear and then eas up on the clutch. If I push on the gas I get no response it just shuts off. The wiring job I matched up all the same wires and spliced them together then put some solder on each connection. After that I put heat shrink on each one to weather seal it.,,, Before I replaced the plug it didn't do this as bad it had a frayed connection that's why I replaced it.

So I just installed a new AFM plug since the old one needed to be replaced. Start up the car and it starts up fine but the Idle seems to be high and the needle doesn't stay steady. I noticed before I changed the plug but it starts at 1000 rpms and the needle just bounce between 1000-1500 rpms. So could it be a vaccum leak or maybe a bad AFM?

Just to give you guys a reference heres what it looks like http://imgur.com/IoOa9

Thanks for your reply! Ya it is the stock EFI so I guess I'll have to add more clips and wires to the plug

So I bought one of FricFrac wiring harness kits which btw were put together quite nicely. So I took out the AFM and got to the plug and noticed that their are 7 wires connected to the plug and the wires are all white. The one he sent me has 4 wires in it one of them being the ground wire. Now on the OEM are those extra wires not needed or did I accidently receive the wrong kit. This new plug looks to be from the 280zx kit which seems to be the same one from his video..

Looking to buy Tokico HP Struts for my 280z PM me with a offer if you have any for sale

For just the interior or also under the car?

I agree with that. Under the car where the spot their is a rust spot about the size of a bottom of a soda can. Most of the car from what looks like has a under coat.

So I pulled the carpet back on the driver side and I noticed a section of the floor panel is rusted and there is a small fracture that I've highlighted within the circle.. As you can see from the picture its not to bad so I was wondering what you guys would suggest? Cutting it out and patch it by welding sheet metal? My buddy will do it for 200 bucks. Or should I just paint it over with Evapo and put Bondo over it? If its rusted that bad would a welding patch job be good enough for it or should I buy and new Floor Panel and replace the whole thing?

So the lights on the dash work tho its a bit dim. Tried the dimmer nob to adjust but the actual rod is stuck. Any tips on how to loosen it up or is it common for this part to seize up over time?

Link to the post I'm curious to see how it's done.

Will do thanks for the heads up!

So I just recently purchased a 75 280z and I need to replace the Plug that plugs into the Air Flow Meter. It is frayed so sometimes to start up the car you need to jiggle the wire a little to get it to crank over properly . Sometimes tho the wire get jiggled during the ride and the car "hicups" I found this wire on Ebay for a 280zx and was wondering if it would work with a 75 AFM http://www.ebay.com/itm/370581254493?item=370581254493&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:B:BOC:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr If that works I'll buy it..but if anyone has one PM me a offer and I would rather buy it through this website!