itzgoten

The cheapest route would be to use a stock 280z tank. Look for local radiator shops and call them to see if they have tanks big enough to boil out your gas tank. San Jose is pretty big and I was only able to find 3 local shops. I'd assume they are far and few? If you trust the tank you have then there's no need to worry. I had my tank boiled out so I could modify my 240z tank. That way it wouldn't blow up on me when we welded it. Then I took it back to the radiator shop and he pressure checked the tank to make sure there weren't any leaks. After that was verified he coated the inside with a special coating (not sure what it was exactly but it felt like a jelly solution) to seal everything up nicely.

Most of the time when the guys do a fuel cell they cut out the spare tire well to make room. I really didn't want to do that because I wanted to keep the stock tank and fill the gas from the stock location. If you get the tank boiled out and pressure tested you'll be all good. They'll coat the inside as well so it'll be good as new. Shouldn't cost you anymore than 180 to do that.

I would say the baffle in the tank would be sufficient. There's many types of surge tanks out there and I believe a thread on here about surge tanks too. I think the tank you have should be adequate the way it is.

I had a custom gas tank built. I took the stock 240z gas tank and cut out the center bottom part of the tank. Had a baffel made from perforated steel and then had a sump installed with 2 -6 AN fitting bungs. So when I accelarate out of the corners I'm able to pick up fuel. I had that problem before I modified the tank. I highly recommend doing something about the stock tank if you plan on doing any track events or spirited driving. You best bet though, to save serious cash, would be to look for a 280zx gas tank and just have custom -AN fittings put on.

Where do you see this? I went back and looked at his pic's and didn't even pay attention. The MAF should not be building boost so it shouldn't be before or after the IC. It should be after the intake cone before the turbo. Maybe if I knew which picture you were looking at?

Sorry if I confused you there. What I was saying was that I personally felt that the walboro SUCKED. I went through 2 of them. One in-tank (on my silvia) and one in-line (on my Z). I think the Aeromotive 700 for you would be OVERKILL. I would look into theses fuel pumps: Bosch 044 (300 lph) http://highflowfuel.com/i-4791020-bosch-044-300lph-inline-pump-includes-an-fittings-of-choice.html Aeromotive - I seatched for their 340lph and they only sell it in-tank at the moment.. so it wouldn't work for you. They do sell a smaller in-line pump but it's only 200 lph which I wouldn't recommend.

I read through most of this and it seems like they guys have your questions answered. But the SR in you Z will be awesome. I promise you that much. The power to weight ratio is just kick ass and you'll pull on most cars on the road. I just had my gas tank pressure tested to make sure it could hold the PSI and after that I had a Walboro 255lph pump installed but I'm not a fan. The pump died on my in about 6 months. I ended up getting a Aeromotive 700.. but that isn't what I'd recommend for a "stock SR" setup. I'd look into the Bosch 044 or see if they make the new Aeromotive 340lph as a in-line pump. Also as far as motor mounts, I bought the McKinny mounts and I'd say they are decent AT BEST. The "hockey puck" mounts didn't even sit flush on both sides. One side the mounts sat flush, on the other side it was a bit off kilter and wedged more on one side. Vildini seems to have their stuff together and I really love their stuff. I'd explore that avenue first if I could go back and redo things.

Jesus.. that looks killer.. I can't afford a dry sump at this time but I am going to run an oil cooler setup. I looked up shimming the oil pump and I can do that fairly easily with the s15 oil pump. I looked up the VE pump but it's still confusing and not enough people are able to answer my questions so I am hesitant to go that route. After researching the sr20ve build I think I'll have to suck it up one more time before I'm done (with the car scene or whatever it may be) and do a full sr23vet build. I think it offically a bucket list item for me now! Hahaha If you can find out from your buddy what the sump kit cost him in total? I looked around and it seemed to be in the 3-4k range?

I'll have a few more weeks ahead of me. Everything is at the machine shop. I asked them to groove out the main journals so I can use GTiR bearing instead. Aside from that everything else is good. Just waiting on the machine work and then we'll assemble everything and get the motor put back in. I was wondering though. Do you know anything about the oil pumps? I am going to get a s15 oil pump this time around and just drill out that one extra hole. I read up on the GTiR pump but it seems like a lot more work is involved and you need that spacer from JTW (which is discontinued now??). So I don't want to take any more chances and kill myself for going over my head and trying something else that wasn't planned.. Your thoughts?

So.. I'm hoping everything is all done and you're good to go now?

Thanks for the info bro, but I'm all set here. I have everything you listed as far as parts but just different brands.. I was considering doing the vvl head but I'm too far in with parts to change it now. I have a full PnP on the head w/ valve train and cams. I just dropped the block off to the machine shop Tuesday and expect to be back on the build soon.

VERY COOL! Well I'm sure I'll meet you eventually at the NCRC track days. I doubt I'll finish by the 23rd. So when she's up and running I'll definitely meet you and Bill out there. Glad to see that I'm able to find another HBZ member that is somewhat local.

If it's Bill then you got it. He's going to meet us at a HybridZ BBQ this Sunday. Maybe you two can carpool.. not sure how well you know him.

Yea! What he said.. "The more you know, the less you blow (up motors)" HAH. Story of my life. Good luck and hope you're able to find all of your resources.

I was going back searching something and read this.. Who knew.. LOL! Cooling issues I DO have I guess

So.. Finally, some updates! I picked up a used block and crank for 250. I think it's a pretty fair deal. Both the crankshaft and cylinder walls have surface rust on them. The parts were close to the coast and the owner hard the parts stored away in his garage. I'm sure with humidity like that it's bound to happen. Either way, a great deal and some polishing will clean them both right off. A shipment from BC came in today as well. I got new rods, pistons and cams in. I'm glad they arrived but at the same time the cost of buying parts AGAIN doesn't really make me all that excited. Also, the head came back from the machine shop and everything was peachy.. He feels that it was ok to reuse and the damage wasn't as severe as I had anticipated. He had to hot tank the head three times. I know I mentioned this before but here are some pictures.

Gollum, I rode in a very basic Z at the track and it blew my mind. He's actually a ghost on the forums here. He's an instructor where I do my track days and he's running a VERY modest setup. Clean chassis, bolt-in cage, upgraded brakes and suspension, junk yard L24 w/ mikuni's that he got for a great deal. Nice sticky track tires and OMFG.. I was surprised how great his car did. He was a monster and it just blew me away. After seeing what the "right mods in the right places" really meant in real life; it became an eye opener. I mean.. I love my build but man.. I would love to build a "low(er) budget" car like that as my daily. I would love to get a 70's Skyline GT-R replica. like a converted GT-X and have that as a daily. That would be awesome!

I would have to agree. I spent a pretty penny on suspension parts and getting the car running right. Initially I just wanted any fuel injection motor. KA or SR.. but everything worked out for the best and I ended up pulling my SR out from my S13 and selling the chassis to someone who wanted it. It was never my intention to building a big HP setup but it just happened that way. I must say though.. my engine work alone over shadows all of my body work, suspension, flares, rollcage, spoiler, T3 LCA's, brakes, etc... shy of being DOUBLE. But again, I never intended to spend so much under the hood.

Matt, I have two buddies with KA-T's and they both make as much power as I do but way more torque. I probably even spent a bit more than them on the SR.. I don't think KA's are garbage but I'd never buy/build one.. Hell.. my s13 never even had a KA in it to begin with. LOL Gollum, LOL.. Stike a nerve or what? BTW.. I can't make it to that BBQ anymore some other plans got in the way. Maybe next time or at a smaller meet! Hopefully by then my Z will be back up

Both motors have their pros and cons.. I had an SR since 2004 and when I had the car I didn't know much about tuning. People who owned KA's were blowing their motors left and right tying to boost them. It felt smarter just getting something that was already boosted stock. I still feel that the SR is a safer platform than the KA but my buddies running KA-T's do make a crap ton of torque. If life gives you oranges.. make orange juice.. So I guess that is why I'm squeezin' out the SR juice..

A cheap way to get a front splitter is just to get some alumalite. If you go to FastSigns.com and find a local place near you they'll sell a 4x8ft sectopm fpr $100. WAY cheaper than a APR splitter. After all of this nonsense with my Z is done I'm going to pick it up. You can trace your air dam and put about a 2 inch lip out. Cut it before the front tires and you'd have a pretty solid splitter. I was going to do it out of aluminum but why when alumilite is lighter and cheaper. It's super durable and supposed to last all types of extreme weather conditions. I'm sure it'll be able to take a beating on the road. My buddy did it for his S2000 and he just put a bunch of decals on it to cover up the alumalite sign. Hopefully you like the idea.

AHH! That sounds way better than broken parts. There is always light at the end of the tunnel!

Well I am hoping that this time will go smoothly. It was an expensive learning curve indeed! But you know what? I'm motivated so I'm determined to make this happen. And now after Mr. JDM went and told me about the sr20vet I'm wishing I met him a few years sooner. I will probably have to muster up the courage one more time and build a SR23VET and put it into a track car. Probably a S13 or S14 chassis this time though.. I also took out my oil pump gear for fun just to see how bad it was.. OMG.. total failure. It was so scuffed up and the inner part of the gears were "dimpled" from crushing the metal particles that were flowing through it. I guess after seeing all the damage it would only make sense to have that many things break.

VERY NICE! I love the build.. First thing I had to ask though.. you did sell those OEM hub caps for a lot of money right?! hehe.. Them being more rare these days and all. And also since you are reposting this thread all over again, what is the current status of the car? Does it run or it's still being built? How do you like the Vildini mounts? I picked up the McKinny mounts and I would say they were "OK" at best. I have the motor sitting far back but I still notched the front crossmember to accomodate the oil pan. Looks great though! I can't wait for the updates!

So I picked up a "new" block and crank last week for pretty cheap and I just ordered all of the replacement parts from Brian Crower. I should be getting new set of rods, pistons and cams. Sad part is.. they couldn't even sell me just one rod. BC said that the rods have changed in weight since my model was released. The newer rods are a bit heavier now. Since that was the case I had to buy a set of 4. He was cool enough to get me cost on all of the parts since I initially purchased from them. On a better note. I got the head looked at and everything was salvageable. They has to hot tank the head 3 times just to get all of the metal and debris out. The cam journals polished out beautifully and I'm just relieved that I didn't have to spend more money on a new head. Quite a bit of change was spent on the port and polish, port matching to the intake manifold, etc. I'll have pictures of everything when it all comes in. Hopefully it won't be too long before I'm back on the road. I hope to make it to at least another track day before the summer is over.