That's a large generalization of the cam grinding industry - maybe in the US, but not in Australasia...
And the OP is probably going to stick a pair of Hitachi's on his engine, so this conversation will be a moot point anyway.
Why would you want an option box for a track car?
Option box's are only really suitable for dirt rallying.
A OD box is a far better proposition for your desired application.
Option box's are only really suitable for dirt rallying.
Well if a lot of "time & money has gone into this build" IMHO you should replace both the distributor drive spindle with new one (most US based Z parts suppliers stock them)
and also replacing the timing case cover with a brand new one.
I'm sorry but that is incorrect. Who has fed you this incorrect information?
The crankshaft in the Green Hornet L34 is a an 90mm stroke EN26 billet item made by a company in Australia.
The rods are not Honda - they are a custom ordered Carrillo's, and the pistons are custom raised crown forged units for 11:1 CR.
I'm curious: how are you able to weld & then offset grind a standard L28 crankshaft to get it to 90mm of stroke?
My engine builder had a F54 block with a crack in the deck along its length that was un-repairable,
so he milled the top of the deck off to see where the bore core shift was. Notice how non-concentric the bore castings are - this make sonic testing and off-set boring a must!
Were the bores Sonic tested before it was bored? Or were you just a cowboy and bored it on the original bore centreline?
FWIW I went through 4 blocks - both N42 & F54 - before I found a my current F54 block that could take a 89mm bore safely - while retaining 120 thou wall thickness.
Depends on where you are welding...?
For example, welding up the injector notches can pull the manifold face 40thou.
Whatever part of the head you weld up, expect it to require straightening, THEN milled flat.