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Found 13 results

  1. I'm looking for the aftermarket center piece panel that goes between the tail lights on the 280ZX. To be specific the 82-83 years models with the black stripes/bars that goes across the lens. Also known as the third brake light or center tail light. Has "280ZX" written on the lower red lens. I've got one that got hit by a smaller truck the other day, so the top amber lens got crushed.... And also I'm missing the wiring. But I guess no one has the lens and wiring only for sale, so I'm looking for the whole thing! PM me. Thanks!
  2. Trying to put all parts into a 71' 240z. I am looking at running a l28et with a t5 out of a 280zx turbo and then an r200 diff out of a 280z, will I need to modify the trans mounts to run the t5 still? Also will I want the driveshaft out of the 280z or the 280zx turbo? I am trying to setup something with the least amount of fabrication required.
  3. This is not a how to,It is what I have done. Mesuring the 240 rack I came up with 24.230" from center to center of ball scokets (iner tie rod pivot point) and a travel of 5.125". The pinion is 7.5" from the center of the housing. The Miata rack's I reviewed are from a 92 and 97. The 92 has a vavle body cast with the gear case and is held togeather with C-clips. This makes it harder to modify. The 97 has a vavle housing bolted to the gear case and the end cap screws into the housing. This is what I will cover here. The Miata rack is 26.040"center to center of ball scokets with a travel of 4.704". The pinion is 8.75" from the center of the housing. Ball scoket threads are 17x1.0MM RH. Center of ball scoket to mating face of rack is (including lockwasher) .740".The travel is limited by ball scokets contact with the housing. Removing the ball scokets allows more travel that is now limited by the distance between the fluid lines less the with of the piston inside 5.354"-.287"=5.067" max travel for this rack. Not as much as the 240's 5.125",But with power steering I will go with shorter steering arms to make up for it. To get Center to center of 24.230" I removed 1.812" off the right end of the rack remachined the end with the exception of the lenght of the small OD witch was shortened to .25". This aera and the vent hole must be polished to prevent seal damage. The housing was cut down 1.582" on the right side and remachined. The thread is 40x1.0MM RH, I used 1.575"x24TPI RH (My lathe is english) A new shorter end cap was made alowing an extra .385" travel. It stops the piston befor it blocks the fluid port on the left. Using a face pin spaner insted of a hex alowes more of the housing to be left in place for the rubber mount. This made up for cutting less off the housing than the rack. On the left end of the housing a counter bore 1.5" DIA x.150"deep alowing the ball scoket to travel inside the housing,and the piston to travel to the edge of the right fluid port. The tie rod's were cut down 2.25" and threaded 12x1.25MM RH. Miata outer tie rod's will be used. I now have a rack with the same center to center as the 240z, and a travel of 5.067". Other problems to address will be the pinion is now 6.562" from the center of the housing (15/16" closer to the motor), steering shaft and mounting made.
  4. Just wanted to throw this out there. Which would be the best s30 model to invest in? What seems to make the most money? or get the most attention? Is there a good year or engine size that came out and everyone went 'That's the one to have' Quite ofter the very early cars seem to be the ones people want to collect? Quite often the company sorted out all the problems and by the end the cars were the best of the lot! Take the e-type for instance though, and the early 3.8 roadster series is a GOD and the later v12 is a train wreck in my opinion. I am new to the Z world though and just wanted to know what people thought?
  5. It's always nice to know of other z car owners in the area. How many are we in Wisconsin? I'm from Manitowoc County
  6. Bought this car recently... was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to replace or fix the Kaminari Wide Body Kit thats on it... kinda new to body work... but i can do mechanics great... never heard of Kaminari till i bought this car... so i have no idea what its even worth... if anyone can help me out that would be great...!!!! I love this car... not my first 280 nor my first datsun... but first car ever with a body kit lol... would love to be able to restore this beauty....
  7. So I am well aware of the fact that the Inner Tie rods for the 240/260/280 are NLA from almost all sources, but I am wondering if somebody has found a solution for a worn out inner tie rod! Seems crazy that either everyone has perfect tie rods, or is living with crap ones. I've had a couple of ideas, but none of them are easy/require lots of machining. Looking for a good solution!
  8. Looking for a body kit for 1974 240Z and one for a 1983 ZX. I am in NC. 336-480-7387 dnicol9260 at gmail
  9. Finally started working on my '74 260Z. Car has sat (inside) for over ten years. Fuel tank had a leak and has been removed. Anyone have suggestions regarding replacement or refurbishment. Prefer something local to Ct. Searched on-line, only came-up with a place in PA (Moyer Fuel Tank) that refurbishes. Tried Zcarsource; no dice. Checked Bad Dog's web site; didn't show anything for a 74. Sent an e-mail request through the site, no reply. Someone I know, who deals in vintage auto's, suggested AII radiator in Bridgeport. They did some work for me about 30 years ago on a tractor & I had no problems; didn't know they were still in business. Brought them the tank, thought they could help. After cleaning; the feeling is it's too compromised and I should find another core. Which brings me to my question - Can someone tell me if the early 280 fuel tank (to 7/76) is the same as a late 260 tank (9/74 to 11/74). They look the same in the drawings. 280 tanks seem to be available as salvage whereas the 260s are almost impossible. Also any other parts or refurbishment sources. Appreciate any help. Thanks - Harry
  10. I'm in the market for a 5 speed transmission from a 77-78 280z for my 240z. I am in the Sacramento Area but I'd be willing to travel a bit for the Transmission.
  11. Hi everyone, Recently my uncle has helped me to tackle the issue of my heater not working. Upon taking out the glovebox and center console to get an idea of what's happening (or rather what isn't), we noticed a couple things. - The cable that is actuated by the temperature control seems to be rusty and isn't moving. It's also bent. The one I'm referring to is the one that's behind the passenger side dash, not the one that's connected directly to the switch on the control panel. - The hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core should be replaced. I was hoping to replace the heater core while we were at it because i'm almost positive it's original, but the hoses would need to be replaced at the same time. - The heater control valve seems to be pretty worn out and may not be functioning. I'm not entirely sure what this part is actually called or what its specific functions are, but there is some sort of spring mechanism attached to it. My uncle is fairly certain it's some kind of thermostat. It's the part that is shown in this picture: And of course, finding these parts has been nearly impossible. I found hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core on ebay, but they're over $20 each. I've only found the heater valve in one place and it's priced at $200 there. As for the temperature linkage, I haven't been able to find anything. I'm not sure if this is because I don't know the proper names or perhaps these parts are just impossible to find. Can anyone help point me in the direction of where to buy these parts? Thanks - Brandon
  12. First off, i'd like to say hey to everyone, as i'm new here and this is my first post. I'm not sure if there's an introduction section, i hope i didnt miss it. Onto business: I've loved z's ever since i was a tiny kid and didn't know the first thing about them. Now, after learning more and more about them, I want my own. Here's the rundown: I want a 280z, maybe year doesn't matter too much to me. I want to drop in a chevy, I found an ls3 I like. I realize this thing is gonna be fast but i dont want something thats only enjoyable on the track. Although I want to do this right and not cut any corners, i dont want to spend an ungodly amount of money on this as it really is just a toy. I'm not new when it comes to street cars, i've driven plenty, but ive never owned anything personally other than yukons, dodge 1500's, and wranglers. So having said that, i dont know a whole lot when it comes to mods like this. Here are my questions: -How does this engine seem? http://paceperformance.com/i-7739382-19259233-special-ls3-525hp-with-free-shipping.html a bit pricey i know but i like nice things and horses -The only axles i'm familiar with are the ones for my wrangler, so fill me in on what you'd recommend for 400-500 hp -I understand the t56 is a preferable transmission for this kind of build, does someone mind to elaborate? -what rear tire sizes are you guys fond of? what brands/models? -I've heard of some people running mustang brakes or toyota brakes, what do you guys have/recommend? -Although i eventually plan on adding a completely new suspension, painting it, other "pretty stuff", etc, what are things that you guys see as "essential" for an ls swap? I'm not trying to break anything or die cause i know ill be giving this thing some hell. Lastly, do you guys know of any places that do good work on z's? I'm in the nashville area of tennessee. I want them mainly to do the heavier stuff like axle and engine swapping. Thank you all in advance, can;t wait to get some answers.
  13. This is the start to what I hope becomes another great build thread. I picture it ending with a photograph of my Z, shining in the beams of Texas sunlight coming through a massive cloud of burnt rubber. There I am in the driver seat… old, broke and happy! I am an engineer, not a mechanic. I hope by the end of this project and after a few more years at my job, the gap between the two will meet somewhere in the middle. I do not have unlimited time and I have a baby on the way, so I apologize in advance for any long periods without updates or if at some point this becomes another sad part-out page. So far, I have only vicariously enjoyed your successes and turmoil. I’m going out on the same limb now, thanks for having me. Before I forget, many tanks to Matt (if you’re out there) for selling me the car…sorry I couldn’t offer more. Please post as much as you want with input, critiques, questions or moral support! For a little back-story here is my new member post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105606-south-texas-engineer-with-a-new-75-z-turbo/ Starting line: Price: Every bit I could spare for…$2500!! Layout: 75 280z L28et (seller said ‘83… wiring harness and sensors are 81?) 5speed. It has strong metal everywhere except driver floorboard that has small patch and potentially lower section of deck lid. Battery tray, fenders and all towers are in great shape. Running condition: Fires right up, runs terrible. Not highway safe! Good Mods from previous owner: Very surprising bunch of aftermarket parts for a car that runs terrible! No details on what had been done so far… so it’s back tracking and investigation for everything but the obvious below. It has a “Recent†engine rebuild, no details, in a pretty clean engine bay. JSK fuel rail and FPR and an unknown newer style pump, MSD ignition coil with new distributor and wires, HKS BOV, new intercooler (~10x24x3â€), SS intake piping, KN filter set, oil cooler mounted behind intercooler, filter to cooler oil bypass, single small electric radiator fan, Interior has all new carpet, headliner and dash pad, doors open well and have decent liners. If that’s not enough, 4 brand new xxr wheels and tires! Downsides: Fuel management is no good and frustration with this is why he sold it. I think injectors are almost full open all the time. It spits un-burnt fuel straight out of downpipe onto my garage and starts burning your eyes within a few seconds. Under medium throttle at standstill engine can die from flooding. Oil has heavy fuel contamination after only a few hours of tinkering. Rear-end CLUNK when you shift quickly under load… I have ideas but I am not sure yet. Owner before me could not get hood latch open when he bought it… so he DRILL cut a hole in the hood above the latch to get it opened. No chassis light/electrical works, all HVAC controls removed, gauges don’t work. Status of diagnostics: I fixed an early issue with battery drain coming from a short in the rear-defrost (by fix I mean I removed the fuse) I then moved on with the “ecm connector test†and found almost everything reads open circuit or the wrong resistance. I have determined that the coolant temp and head temp sensor have no/broken connectors, wiring for them is bundled and zip tied. The TPS wiring was cut and then wrapped in elec tape so it only LOOKs like its plugged in. AFM was broken into and now doesn’t read the correct resistance throughout the range. But hey, Intake air temp reads great! Drawing board: I picture having the drive train and ride at 100% and spending as little money as possible to get the look to 75%. Right now I am considering removing all of the original engine controls and going with Megasquirt and maybe even 3.0 with spark control. My reasoning for this is that after adding up just a replacement AFM, harness repairs/connectors and OE sensors I am already almost to the cost of the MS system. I also think it is the coolest thing EVER to have that kind of system in a 40 year old car. So instead of asking the question “do you think I should Msquirt?†I am going over all the other answers to that question and the final product and decide for myself. I may go with just toggle switches for all chassis stuff besides brake lights and have a space for a small laptop to sit where the HVAC and radio used to be to show the extra gauges from MS. *Suspension to be addressed* After all that, its new seats… cheap paint job… and open road.
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