DatsunD

Here are some pics, i also am uploading a vid on youtube so you can check that out later too.

I'm trying to upload them now.

goodluck man

Thanks man, did you figure out the speedo?

So where did the duel webers come from? aftermarket?

Yea i'll send you some good pictures, and my car is runing good so it's all hooked up right. The only prob i'm having is my starter, it's a cheap autozone one so the solenoid went out on it within months.

Yes i have two wires coming out of my distributor to a plug like connection.

No prob man

Thanks i'll grab the meter and check it out, as for the fuses their all good. I thought after spending $380 to the auto electric mechanic for problems (battery would die all the time) it all would go away. yea right! Dusn't stay charged and when i do charge the battery i have to start my car with a screw driver on the starter soleinoid because it wont start with the push button ign. i put on (wireing checked at least ten times). I'm thinking grounding problem? sorry to get off subject here man.

Just so i take the right pictures, you need to see the wires going to and from the coil and distributor correct?

trumpetrhapsody- I have a 74 260z with a l28 280z motor and will be able to send some pics of the coil and dizzy wireing to you tommorow. Im not sure what time it is over their but it is 8:11pm here. I can send them to you at around 8:00am my time.

From what the pic's look like it is DIY however, the grounding kit is only for the engine bay. Meaning multiple thick gauge wires going from your motor to the chassis from multiple points. Take a look- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP/12-4168

JOJO- I did not see that on my speedometer i have 74 260z. Maybe something aftermarket? dunno but i didn't have that on mine. On the 260z is their high and low beams? i'f so my high beam lights don't work i pull the blinker lever back and lights go off ?

71240 thanks for the pics!

71240 pics would be awsome, i agree with dhartig, knowing where you guys run your oil lines to turbo and such would be a plus. There is a guy on youtube runing a turbo tom setup which has a seperate oil tank in the engine bay im guessing as to where he ran his lines. you can find the vid searching "turbo tom". BTW Thanks for the info guys DatsunD

"Automotive electrical and computer systems are designed to tolerate up to 100% noise on their input lines. Meaning, for instance, if the ECU is expecting a 12-volt input signal, the signal may vary in the range of 0 to 12 volts. Fluctuations in signal are due to noise and resistance in the system. Noise is generated by spark plugs firing, discharges through the tires to the road, alternator turning on/off, etc. Resistance is the inability of the system to conduct electricity properly. One of the best-proven ways to compensate for noise and resistance is with proper grounding. Engine grounding has been used in the racing industry for years. The benefits have been proven and documented. The Custom Engine Grounding Kit allows for cleaner data transfer to the ECU. The result is more accurate measurements by the ECU and therefore more accurate performance, smoother idle and better acceleration. On carbureted Z's, it will help with all of the other electrical systems from the often dim headlights to the ignition system". -Quote from, Motorsport Auto MSA sells grounding kits for $80 70-78 Z's and 03-06 350Z's, but i don't know i'f their is a simalar kit for the 1980 Z? anyone know?

I'm a little late finding these posts but, thanks for all the info and especially the pic's! I am considering doing the draw thru setup, and having a buddy of mine weld a custom intake for it. What kind of weld should i tell him to use and what kind of metal would do without being too expensive? Also on the draw thru setup - Air travels thru the carb and the carb mixes feul into the incoming air, then travels into the turbo (intake side) and get's blown into the intake. Good so far? ok My question is when the air/feul mixture hits the turbo propeller wouldn't their be a buildup of feul hiting the propeller? Maybe i'm under estemating how well the mixture is exiting the carb?

74 260z Body, L28 engine w Duel Webers, 5 speed. Ran good for a while. Then came... Work done (myself) Head gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket,Valve cover gasket, thermostat housing gasket, exhaust flange gasket, 5 speed transmission swap, motor internals cleaned (Carbon build up and oil sludge), keyless entry (door popers), primered black. The Shop- Timeing, pressure test, reversed timing order. NEW- Bosch spark plugs and wires, ignition coil, water hoses, water pump,water thermostat, starter, brake master cylender, Brake calipers, stainless steel brake lines, tokico struts, performance polyurethane bushing kit, All above are MSA First and only car i've every had!! all above done to keep it my daily driver. I have had my car for four years and the above took me about two years because i worked on it a little bit here and there.Runs strong!

Nice i never thought of that, nice to know the little things that can be done to spare hours of agony haha. I'll have to do that when i take mine off again because of the clutch fork and retaining springs. BTW nice info on the throw-out bearing collar and thanks for the help.

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I just checked the turbo for side to side movement and thier is a little so would the rebuild kit fix this? here's some pictures i took of it.

I just remembered i had some trouble getting the tranny on too, it seemed like the shaft coming out of the transmission didn't want to go in the hole in the pressure plate so i figured it needed some leverage and moving around. I had limited resources but i did have a huge jack that was capable of lifting one end of the car at a time. It was better to jack the rear of the car up to get under the tranny and drive shaft, and it also made it easier on me to get a smaller jack and place the tranny on the small jack to raise the tranny into possition. Now that i had the tranny at the right hieght all i had to do was work the shaft through the pressure plate and alot of wiggling was neccessary, i even spun the tranny shaft a little untill finally with a shove forward it went into place so i could put some bolts in. One more thing take time to drain the old fluid out of the tranny and don't fill it with new "2 qts.GEAR OIL" untill it's on the car because it's that much heavier with all that fluid in thier. You probably already know all this but just thought it might help someone if it's thier first time swaping tranny's like it was mine.

I have a 260z with a L28 motor but had the four speed tranny on it before it took a crap on me so i took it off and got a five speed tranny and wondered the same thing, would it work? I took off the old four speed asembely but kept the pressure plate on. Put the five speed on with the throw-out bearing collar (sleeve) it came with and it bolted right on with no problems. I did take the four speed clutch fork and put it on the five speed because the original five speed clutch fork was messed up. It worked with no problems and shifted great untill the clutch fork i swaped came loose from the throw-out bearing sleeve and i had no clutch Is the clutch forks different too? do i need to get a 280z five speed clutch fork to match the tranny? or is it those metal pins?

Thanks guys, now i know i have a usefull turbo for my turbo engine build, and i got it for only 40 bucks!! lucky auto yard find. which brings me to ask if i should go through the bother of a rebuild kit of some kind? the shaft spins freely, and when i took it off the car, fluids were still in all the lines including feul lines leading me to believe it was runing, and not sitting for years. What do you think? should i trust it's in runing condition or should i replace some old parts on it with a rebuild kit asuming the kit won't cost me an arm and a leg?

I have a 280z turbo motor N47 head i think without the turbo. I found a 50th anniversery 300zx turbo and took the turbo,downpipe, and computer off of it because the rest was trashed. The turbo i believe fits on my stock 280z exhaust manifold so my question is would this work for my 3oo-350hp target and what would i need to make it work for me?