DatsunD

Thinking up some cool tail lights, these tail lights are off of a popular car.

Maybe it's common, because when i took mine off i found the same hidden freeze plug to be almost gone. Half of it was worn away but it ran ok before i replaced it.

I took these on my cell phone when i was visiting family in England. Thats my little bro fishing w me outside of Lincoln and check out the name of the pub in the last pic.

I have the late 260z and can't find springs for it. MSA only sells springs for the early models like everyone else.

I think it'd be sweet to have a unique setup like a blow thru turbo. Dual webers,SU's or mukini's i think it's an oldschool setup that can create some nice hp.

When the ignition is on, the blue or white wire going to the blower motor should have 12v after you switch it on. Find out which wire has 12v to it(blue maybe) and the other whire should be dead w no voltage. This is the wire you can use to connect a simple switch to. Connect the dead wire (white maybe)from the motor to one side of the switch and ground the other side of the switch. Then turn on the ignition make sure the fan motor switch on the dash is switch on, and then flip the new switch you put in. It may only be one speed but it will work fine. Also if your going to RadioShaq get a Varistor or Rheostat switch and hook it up the same as i told you and you can adjust your own speed of the motor. I drove for 13 hours to get here in New Mexico and have to work today so i'll get on later to see how it went.

You can wire it up bypassing the switch i will get on later tonight and tell you how i have to go sorry.

Maybe thats why i cant find anyone that has tried to blow thru weber dgv's?

I had a similar problem with my Z charging system. I replaced my voltage regulator,alternator, starter, battery, ACC relay, replaced leads to the battery and nothing happened. My heater fan used to work, so i wanted to test it to see if it was still good. I took the two wires coming out of the fan motor black/yellow i think and connected them straight to the battery and it worked. so i knew the motor was good and found out even though i didn't have a radio, the fuse needed to be in for the acc relay to work! Stupid mistake but the parts needed to be replaced anyway. So supply 12v the motor and i'f it works it's in the wireing.

I made the mistake of not puting in my radio fuse because i took it out of the car, found out it needed to be in for the ACC relay to function. I don't know how but i also found my flashers to be pulling alot of juice from the battery when not on, i found the relays and disconnected them untill i find good ones. Tested the car running and the alternator kicked in giving me 14v at idle. whew!

I had a simalar setup on my 260z, i took most of it off and have no problems with my duel dgv webbers. I still have my headers with those smog pipes coming off of them in my shed with the same looking valve as your broken one, let me know if you need it.

I think i have one handy, i'll try that. I have a two wire plug going into my alt. I'll have to do some searching to figure out how to wire one up.

yes it's a 74 260z

I took off the whole dash at one time and the harness and connections look fine so i put it back together. The ONLY thing i can think of is my oil pump gasket went bad and my fan sprayed oil on the alternator side of my engine, maybe causing bad connections or wire? But i'f i had a bad wire or connection the alternator wouldn't kick in when i disconect the + side of the battery at idle.

I have searched and tried again and again to fix this problem myself with no luck, so i passed it on to an auto electrician and $300 bucks three batteries and hours of my labor got me nowhere! -Here's the problem My battery is constantly going dead! Jump starting my car has become an everyday ordeal with my car. -Work done New battery and battery cables New voltage regulator New starter Tested alternator and it's ok but put new one in and it didn't change anything Tried to put in a acc relay from another car Mechanic said the problem was some wires behind the fuse pannel, solved the problem for a few weeks ALL HAS FAILED I let the engine idle and took the positive cable off the battery and THEN the alternator kicks in! I am out of patience ANY input would help! Thanks in advance

Ahh my search is finally over! Been searching for hours on here for something like this to do my Carb to EFI swap, Thank you! ADMIN--Add to FAQ's? or somewhere easily found? maybe i didn't search correctly? dunno

I was so tempted but somethin told me there's not too much hp u can get out of just one SU carb. Any thoughts?

Sorry it took me a while to post these but here they are. Let me know how it turned out for you.

I have the haynes manuel diagrams.

I have a an exploded view of the transistor type dizzy would that help?

#1 image is Ignition Circuit (distributor with mechanical type contact breaker) #2 image is ignition circuit (transistor type distributor) Look what i found, let me know if it helps.

Ok so i read a chapter or two of a electronics book and whola!Answers! Ok the block thing under the coil is ceramic and it's a "insulator" it has three wires going to it. The word "condencer" is occasionally used to mean capacitor and a resistor is the opposition to current flow in electrical circuits. Basicly anything slowing down the current through the wire is a resistant, decreased current results from more resistance. Trumpetrhapsody i would use some thicker gauge wire on the fusible links, theirs alot of current runing through them, i think of wires like water pipes as far as current,volts,ampere ext. Small water pipes can only take so much water runing through them, small wire can only take so much current running through them and then they burn!

Yea thats what i would do, the only function of the plug being their is if you ever want to change out the dizzy and water temp sensor. Just make sure they are good connections and wraped w electrical tape.

There are two plug connections like in picture #5 one is for the dizzy and the other on mine has two green colored wires going to the water temp sensor showed in pic. I have taped mine up because they detached from my water temp sensor.