i r teh noobz

The shock bracket will need to come off or the axle won't fit past it.. I believe you need a 17mm socket and a 19 mm wrench. You may need to cut the exhaust to get the left side axle out.

Looks like a TBO lip, stock side skirts, some sort of aftermarket wing. http://www.garymolitor.com/300zx/ss_tbo/TBOspoilerref.htm Powertrix was making a similar wing, but its not cheap.

Suspension is pretty much stock. Poly bushings, stock rear, stock turbo axles, stock turbo springs, stock replacement shocks (I think they're KYB). Stock wheels with 225/50/16 Potenza all seasons. Best 60' was a 2.0551 with a manual, so I haven't ran into any problems yet. The stub axles are supposed to be the weak link in the rear. Some say they can take a beating as long as you don't get wheel hop. I plan to swap for coilovers soon if money allows. I want Starion/Conquest wheels with some sort of drag radial setup as well. Stiffer springs are a must at minimum. I don't know much about the manual HVAC system, but I think most of it is different from the auto stuff. Nissan service manuals are available in PDF format at xenonz31.com. There should be a diagram for the light motors as well.

There is a vacuum tank on the core support. Start checking there and trace the hard line going into the firewall, near the heater core lines. Several of my Z31 have had cracks in the hard plastic line, and the tank itself is a common failure item for the HVAC system. If your car has the automatic climate controls, the diaphragms for the vent actuators could be leaking as well. My LS swap car (88 with auto climate) does not have the vacuum tank anymore. Vents function normally except on hard acceleration or lugging at low speed. Then they default to hot defrost. If you go the simple R134a swap route, at least replace the dryer and add some "conversion" oil to the system. It worked great for me for several years. I don't know what a replacement headlight switch goes for these days, but a member on Z31 Performance offers rebuilt switches with OEM internals. I know you already got a replacement, but here's the link for future reference: http://z31performance.com/forum/marketplace/networking-group-buys-links-parts-products/21850-headlights-switches-rebuild-service-with-new-oem-internals-for-both-kouki-zenki

Pull the rear carpets and look for rust. The lights and quarter windows leak back there. Check the floors under the seats for rust. The T-tops leak there, Check the passenger side frame rail for rust. The battery leaks down on it and eats the paint. Rapidly open and close the throttle in gear and listen for clunking. The rear u-joints and subframe bushings tend to need replacing. Ball joints may need replacing. Check the usual stuff for any car. Shocks/struts, radiator (they rust out in the corners), leaks, etc. Z31s make great daily drivers. Look for maintenence records for the timing belt. I daily drove two very rusted Z31s for almost 4 years without any issues other than alternators and one radiator.

There should be several shops near you that can "cut and wield" you up a "costume" driveshaft. Look in the phone book for a transmission shop. I paid around 250 to have a ~26" driveshaft made from 3" tube for my LS swap. I provided the yoke and flange.

Any reason you are set on a swap? Just boost the NA engine you have and the ~300HP of the Ford motor will be attainable. When it pops, get a VG33E and make more power. I have an LSx Z31. Even with all the documentation out there for LSx swaps I still had 3 years and several thousand dollars wrapped up in it before it even ran. Just be sure you know what you're getting into before staring. It would be a cool swap to see finished.

A few minutes is fine. I usually shut mine down after 30 seconds or so.

http://www.rims4less.com/productslisting.php?one=275&two=40&three=15&cat=7

What does an S13 have to do with an S30 swap? You need an f-body pan according to post #2. The f-body pan will bolt right on to the truck engine block. Your question has been answered. Sometimes things just need repeated a couple times before they make sense.

The PCV system has to be plumbed in so that the air is measured by the MAF. Fresh air from the passenger cover has to draw after the MAF (before the throttle plate) and the line from the PCV valve should go to the intake manifold. My truck throttle body has a port for attaching the fresh air inlet for the passenger valve cover. This port draws from in front of the plate.

It may be cheaper in the long run to just get an LS1. The accessory/intake/oil pan swap costs quite a bit. Anything that applies to the LS1 can be applied to the 4.8/5.3/6.0 as far as the swap is concerned.

lt1swap.com has lots of wiring info as well. Top is MAP sensor, bottom is an EVAP solenoid of sorts.

http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/2957914301.html Thats a 240 with a 2.8. It may give you some idea of what you're getting into.