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About mtcookson

  • Birthday 09/03/1984

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    Howard, KS

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  1. I've actually been kind of working on this in my mind for quite a while since I'm putting VG-E in a Z32. You guys have it pretty well covered. With the DE(TT) crank and pump you'll have to extend the cam gear and tensioner and of course add the two extra holes in the block for the pump. You'll also need another spacer for the crank timing belt gear as the VG33's (and 30) belt/gears are thinner than the DE(TT). Basically it would be the metal plate, the gear, the second metal plate, a spacer, then the crank pulley. The Z32 alternator and a/c brackets will bolt up to the VG30/33 block... which is awesome as it moves the a/c to the very bottom of the block meaning more options for turbo pipe plumbing. The water pump also bolts right up. The only thing I haven't worked on yet is the p/s pump bracket. They mount to the head which means you'll likely have to go custom there due to the head differences. Some day I might be able to work on it again and find out lol. You will need a DE(TT) oil pan to do this as well due to the longer oil pump, the oil pan is slightly longer. I'm sure you guys have all this covered but figured I'd throw in everything I've put together so far. If I think of anything else I'll let you guys know.
  2. Where'd ya go? It's been a year?? :D


    It's your birthday BTW...in case you didn't know. lol

  3. Definitely stay away from the US VH41... its nowhere close to the US VH45 and JDM VH41. 90-93 had the plastic chain guides but when you go to Infiniti to order them, regardless of the year you say, you'll get metal backed guides now. 90-93 also had the siamese ports... though, I haven't seen anyone claim yet which is better. I'd the oval port would probably flow more in the end but I'm not positive. I like my siamese ports personally. 94-96 VH45's had the oval port heads and metal backed chain guides. There were a few other small differences between these and the early VH but overall the same except for the 96 VH, which lost the variable valve timing. On the JDM VH41, I believe they have the alternator between the heads and do also have the duplex timing chains. That would be stronger... though, I'm not sold on the duplex setup as it would only add more weight to a system that already works (though, that could just be because I like timing belts more... I hate timing chains period). Anyway... from what I understand you can actually put the VH45 crank in the VH41 to get your 4.5 liters. I can't remember if you retain the duplex chain setup or not though. Mettler over at NICO is the guy to go to for JDM VH41 info.
  4. Yup, the front timing cover gives it away. Definitely a VK series and likely the 56 to get it to a 6 liter. Definitely an awesome engine though.
  5. Yup, you can use either the older Z31 transmission stuff or with some random parts the stronger Z32 transmission. For the Z32 transmission you'll need an 89-91 Maxima flywheel, Maxima or 84-86 300ZX clutch, Z32 throwout bearing, and the lower transmission brackets from a Z32 as well. The VG33 is pretty awesome, I'm planning on using one in my Z. What's awesome about them compared to the VG30E(T) is the cylinder walls... they're huge. You can bore these things to nearly 3.8 liter and still have quite a bit of liner left. 3.8 would definitely make it a potent NA engine but with boost... that thing would be incredible. Definitely post up some pictures of the progress. A swap into a Mustang would definitely be unique and very cool in my book.
  6. Its more like a .248" overbore. Usually over square engines tend to rev a little better than the opposite... As far as weight goes though, going with a larger piston will definitely add some weight... just depends how much it weighs over the stock piston since the forged units are lighter for their size compared to cast/hyper eutectic. Also going with aftermarket rods will help keep weight reduced as well. I'm sure it can still rev pretty well though. I've seen a Buick GN 3.8 V6 running nearly 7,800 RPM... just depends how high you really want to run it. Generally with more displacement like that it means you'll have more power sooner meaning you don't have to rev it all that much to get your power, which is especially nice for the street but also helps with reliability. I wouldn't be surprised if you could still get it to handle 7,000 RPM though. I'm no expert on it but I don't see why not.
  7. Some new information posted recently on a Z31 site shows that a VG33 has thick enough cylinder walls than you can safely bore it up to a 3.8 liter... that will definitely make you some awesome power NA and would probably be the absolute best way to get high NA numbers out of an NA VG. Some custom forged pistons around 97.8 mm (I wouldn't go much larger) built to work with Z32 rods (just a larger wrist pin) and some good head work would make it a monster.
  8. On my Maxima fuel cut was around 6,200 RPM and I'm pretty sure on Z31's it was closer to 6,500 RPM but I could be wrong on that one. With upgraded valve springs you can easily take it up to 7,000 RPM but the biggest reason is because of power produced at a higher RPM... well, the lack thereof. 7,000 RPM is definitely pushing the limit on stock heads as you won't be making much power up there without some head work and cams. With both you can then rev it to pretty much whatever your head work, cams, and internals will support.
  9. I can tell you a T04E 60 trim runs from around 50,000 RPM up to around 75,000 from ~11 lb/min to ~34 lb/min respectively at 8 psi (~1.5 PR). If you can find an exact compressor map of your turbo it should tell you what RPM the wheel is spinning at for a particular pressure and flow. T04E 60 trim:
  10. My info is in the Z31 Performance post above but to use a Z32 5-speed on a VG30E(T) you just need an 89-91 Maxima flywheel (early 85-88 might work as well if any are made for them) along with either a Maxima clutch kit or an 84-86 300ZX clutch. Z32 throw out bearing and starter work perfectly with this setup.
  11. That's the best thing to do... if you have a project idea planned, like the VG33ER swap, I wouldn't bother with doing anything that is essentially the opposite of that goal. I've made that mistake way too many times and still have a bad habit of doing it. Its best to just save your money for you ultimate goal so that it gets done and gets done right the first time. You definitely will not regret doing it that way.
  12. I rounded one pretty bad so I just cut a slit in it (used a pneumatic 3 inch cutoff tool) so that I could get a large flat head bit in it and used the impact driver... just be sure to clean the head out very, very, very well as there is going to be lots of small pieces of metal in there. I actually have changed my project around yet again so won't be getting the VH swap done for a while. My 91 is essentially going to be my daily and I figured, with gas prices going the way they are, a V6 would be a bit better for a daily. I'm going to put the VH in another Z32 I have that I'm going to completely strip for a semi-not-so-much "street legal" race car Basically... light weight, stiff, and fast.
  13. Impact driver or better yet an impact wrench... impact wrench got them right out for me, the driver worked better than a socket wrench.
  14. You can email the pictures to mark at machzracing dot com and I'll get the posted up for you.
  15. Sweet! Good choice... I love the underdog engines like the KA and SOHC VG, they're my favorite.
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