mtcookson

The Nissan VQ30 weighs less from what I understand. Those iron housings and iron rotors make the rotary quite heavy for its size... but the 4 rotor does sound awesome.

I believe those are the weights that give the pressure plate more clamping force when spinning at higher rpm's. If you remove them you'll lose that feature.

Bolt patterns are different. Since the bell housing isn't removable you would need an adapter plate to mate it up. The Z32 tranny is stronger but your best bet would be the Z33 6-speed just for ease of bolting it up and making the clutch stuff work out smoothly.

I wouldn't think you'd need anymore than 10 psi... 15 at the very most. I've seen a dyno of a stock Z31 with the 7.8:1 engine and the T3 style turbo making 250 whp at 15 psi... so you definitely wouldn't need near as much with the higher compression and a better turbo.

Yeah, for that power output the stock N/A engine is more than strong enough. It won't take much boost at all to reach that power.

The VG's are very strong stock. You can easily get to the 300-400 hp range without any bottom end work. The most important part is to keep it from detonating. To keep it from detonating, fuel is the most important part. As long as your tuning is good to keep the fuel supply up you shouldn't have an issue. Of course you have other things like timing and such but that part isn't all that hard compared to keeping the fuel right. Once you start fine tuning it to squeeze out the most power you can, then you'll start border lining safety, but if you're just looking for a quick street car that can take on quite a few cars at a track you should be fine with the stock internals.

Ahhh, ok. Yeah, I've not really heard of them being a problem though I'm mostly a fwd VG guy coming from the Maxima and haven't been into the rwd VG's much yet... only started a month ago or so actually.

I'd check your exhaust studs if its near the head. They seem to be a bit of a problem on VG's... mostly n/a's but I'm sure the turbo VG's still have problems with them.

I'd use a recirculation valve because releasing metered air will cause air/fuel ratio problems. On top of that, you'll need to be able to adjust the spring a bit to where the valve will be constantly open under vacuum. I believe the biggest reason they use a recirculation valve is to simply increase efficiency under part throttle/vacuum. Spooling characteristics won't change at all due to it being spun directly by the engine, unless the valve stays open then you'll see some issues. I though most Eaton setups had an internal bypass setup... basically to where all recirculation is done internally where no plumbing is needed. Is this one not the case? On the throttle body, I believe for the positive displacement s/c's to run properly, the throttle body should be before the s/c (i.e. throttle body, supercharger, manifold/engine)

I've never heard of them dying all that quick but I've had to replace a few myself in the past. On my 91 Maxima the water pump died at around 100k miles but I'm not sure if it had ever been replaced. Best way to check is if there is coolant coming out of the little hole. Another way is to check for a little play or just spin it to see what kind of resistance there is. There should be a little bit of resistance when spinning it.

The best way would be to go with a VG30ET, or at least the easiest way and very low cost compared to try getting an RB. On top of that, the VG30 would be a little more potent than the RB20. There's tons of info on doing that swap. Check out http://www.redz31.com, http://www.z31performance.com, and http://www.Z31.com. You can find a lot of info on doing that swap there.

You can pickup TT trannies for very good prices and are much stronger as Clifton mentioned. You might take a look at http://www.car-part.com. I found mine on there for less than $300.

Manifolds will be very different between the VG30ET and the VQ30DE. Another problem is the stock turbo on the 300ZX is grossly undersized for even the stock VG30ET... for a better flowing VQ30DE it will be even worse. If you can do all of the work, you can build a kit yourself especially doing the very common reverse y-pipe setup on many of the boosted Maximas. If not, you best bet would be to start saving some money and check out maxima.org for some kits that people are selling. You can find used kits every once in a while that are much less than the new price.

Yeah, we picked this one up for $800... I should have told him less than that.

Man... I hear you there. I have an 85T and the thing was... well... abused to put it lightly. The engine was even torn to hell. I had to throw in an 85 Maxima engine I had laying around because the stocker was so busted up. 50 psi compression anyone? That thing looks awesome! Very nice work!

I think he meant Central America and south of the border as in Mexico and southward. Import diesels are popular and numerous everywhere but here.... its really sucks. I'd love to have a Nissan diesel.

The VE was only ever used in a 3rd gen Maxima so it never had a RWD setup. I've not been in one personally, but that I know of its only setup for the front sump. Being that its so similar to a VG, I'd say there might be a chance you could use some of the VG components to change that... I have no way to test that myself though.

Dug up a comparison picture off of my computer of the VG30DE(TT) vs. the VE30DE, just in case any of you were curious.

Its in a Z32. The damage is actually right forward of the sway bar mounts. I'm pretty sure its also forward of the tension bar mount as well. Most of the damage was to the radiator support and just a little bit to the frame, but enough so that it bent a little bit.

Ahh, ok. Luckily its not really a stressed part of the car. Its forward of the strut tower and such so is really only holding the radiator and headlights on the car and such. Of course, I have to get it perfectly straight but the way I'm thinking of doing it should make it hard not to be straight. I just want to be sure I weld it correctly. What you said definitely makes sense so I'll definitely keep that in mind. I'll be doing a lot of test welding before actually welding to the car just to make sure I get the welds done right. Thanks for the info!

That's interesting... that should definitely be plenty to fully disengage it. That's very odd that the thing had shifting issues with enough play like that. Good to hear it works now though.

At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch disengage? (near the top, middle, or closer to the end of the pedal travel)

Oops... I put Gloria. I think the car they came out of was the 87-91 Y31 Cedric.

Yeah, they put those in I believe the Gloria, which were rear wheel drive. I actually have one of those engines as well and was surprised to see that intake on it.