mtcookson

You can setup your s/c to make 10 psi at idle... since we're talking about centrifugal superchargers lets start there. Lets say the maximum pressure the supercharger can make is 15 psi. If you set the supercharger up to where it made 10 psi off of idle, the minute you run the engine past a few thousand rpm you're going to blow the hell of your supercharger. Centrifugal superchargers can not and will not make peak boost until redline period. You can set the pulleys up to make more boost down low but you'll just blow the unit if you rev it past it's maximum pressure capability. If we're talking roots or screws superchargers then yes, you're right... you can set the pulley up to have 10 psi off idle. Techincally they'd still nearly be making that 10 psi at idle if it weren't for the recirculation valve. Even though these units make boost earlier than the turbo... they are so much less efficient than the turbo that the turbo will still out power them. A roots supercharger, like the one in the picture you posted, can easily put more heat into the air in the intake than a good turbo setup due to the way they force the air into the intake. A huge reason as to why they are so much more inefficient than a turbo. That heat does NOT go directly to the compressor of a turbocharger. There is minimal heat exchange between the compressor and turbine. Yes, there is some... but not in the amounts you're trying to say. The center housing connects the two parts and is cooled and lubricated by oil... on a lot of newer units it is cooled by coolant as well. Yes, you can... it is an air to water aftercooler that is put between the intake and supercharger and even though they are rather small they make a massive difference in power output because of the heat those particular superchargers put out. The original supercharger in question, the centrifugal supercharger, will have slightly less heat than a turbo and can be aftercooled, which is a big plus... however, you still have parasitic losses (the supercharger will take more power than the turbo), and you still won't have peak boost till redline (which is a massive hinderance). That couldn't be more incorrect... Heat plays a HUGE role in spooling the turbo. The more heat you can keep in the exhaust and send to the turbo, the quicker the turbo will spool. Simple fact. That is why on those STS turbo setups that put the turbo in the rear of the car, they run a much smaller turbine for any given engine due to the immense heat drop between the manifolds and the end of the exhaust pipe. Yes, exhaust backpressure increases in the exhaust manifold when you use a turbo which is exactly where the power loss of a turbo comes from. Its a simple fact that using the crank to spin a supercharger takes more power than the increase in exhaust back pressure caused be a turbo. That is why turbochargers are so much more efficient. We're talking 3 different types of superchargers in this thread which I believe is confusing everyone. A centrifugal supercharger can not and will not ever create full boost anytime before redline unless they do a CVT pulley setup. A roots and screws supercharger will create full boost nearly instantly due to be positive displacement.

You don't have to... but you will get better spooling if you design a manifold for the turbo. For the split housing the best would be to evenly seperate the exhaust pulses between the two sections. A pulsed manifold spools a turbo much better than a constant pressure manifold does. (i.e. equal length) Its definitely harder to do but if you're going for the full potential that's the best way to go.

Oh man... a centrifugal s/c is the last type of forced induction I'd use on a Z... especially since you can do a turbo setup rather easily. They may be very efficient... but you still have parasitic losses and you don't reach peak boost till redline, period. That's the killer. A turbo is nearly as efficient, compressor wise, doesn't have the parasitic losses that using a belt does, and has much quicker boost response... peak boost comes on much sooner. Basically you'll make more power all around with a turbo than with a centrifugal s/c. If it were a roots... maybe... I'd still go with a turbo over a roots. If it were a screws, I'd say go for it. A turbo is still a bit more efficient but a screws is still extremely efficient and gives instant boost. I'd still choose a turbo over a screws as well but of the superchargers, I believe the screws is the best.

The sprocket has a keyway so that it can slide over the pulley's key. I can't seem to find the thread for some reason but I believe they said it had something to do with if something were to ever sieze up. I probably would leave it as is myself, especially since it was originally designed that way.

I'm in for sure. Shipping for me would be to 67349.

As long as you torque the crank pulley bolt to spec you won't need to extend the keyway at all. I can't remember the reason but someone on NICO was saying it was designed that way for a reason. I'll have to search NICO a bit to find that reason though.

Picked one up in IL for 250 with a 3 mo. warranty... granted I never got it installed in that 3 months but these things are strong enough that I can trust it. http://www.car-part.com

36 mm

LMFAO... if that thing was really a 5-speed i would have swore it was a friend of mine from indiana who's fiance owns a turbo pt cruiser. he'll probably even see this post as he's on here every once in a while. absolutely hilarious!

Even though the VQ powers the fastest Nissan in the world? This thread is hilarious.

??? Because stock for stock, the VQ was built to have very light weight internals. The rods are likely much less stout than the VG's. With equal internals (rods, pistons, etc) the VQ will likely be making more power just as reliably... or more. From a lot that I've read on the VG30DETT, they tend to have cooling issues stock, which is due to casting imperfections. The VQ isn't going to have the casting imperfections that the VG will have. The VQ is simply a more advanced engine and has replaced the VG and the RB.

A lot of Nissan's stock setups do very well, especially with the variable valve timing, but of course it can always be improved since they have strict emissions to follow and have a power limit so to speak. A Nissan V8 would be a great choice as they're lighter and stronger than the VG's. The VH45DE out of the 90-96 Q45 can be built up quite a bit to make some awesome power N/A or with forced induction. Plus, if you wanted to go that route, there's a guy now making some transmission conversion plates to mate the Z32 5-speed to the VH45DE. Since you're wanting to go N/A the V8 idea is actually a very good idea. They will fit into the Z32 engine bay as well... a few guys have already done it and I'm actually doing that exact swap myself.

The engine in the 240SX is basically the same thing as that truck has stock maybe minus small odds and ends like intake, exhaust, and maybe the cams. They're both the KA24DE. The engine from the 200SX is actually a VG30E, which also came in the earlier trucks and suv's. I can't remember when the crossover occured, but down the line they put the VG33E into the trucks and suv's. If you use some of the stuff from the trucks that came with the VG I'd say you wouldn't have any problems getting the thing in. Intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, I'd also try finding the wiring harness and ECU from a VG truck, odds and ends like that. It should be a relatively cheap swap since the trucks were available with the VG and the VG would definitely be a much better choice than the KA. Not that the KA isn't a good motor... just that the VG is... well, and awesome motor. Stock for stock the VG of course makes more power but if you want to do some performance stuff down the road you can probably do a relatively easy turbo setup using a lot of Z31 300ZX turbo parts. Another thing you might have to think about in swapping the engine in, is there's a chance you might have to change the tranny... and from there might have to change the driveshaft. More work, but I would think it would definitely be worth it. If you aren't looking into doing that much work and such, the 240SX motor should drop in. You'll probably have to swap the various external components and such (ac, ps, alt, intake, exhaust, etc. etc.) When you have the two engines setting next to each other you'll see exactly what needs to be swapped over and what doesn't. That would be the absolute easiest fix out of the two options. I've kind of had an eye out for a 4x4 Nissan truck from that year range and a bit higher... they're definitely hard to find for a decent price (decent meaning something extremely low since I'm poor ). Trucks definitely hold their value incredibly well.

I bet the valves just bent. Not very likely that the crank or rods would have any damage. Pistons... maybe, but not likely. You could actually pick up another complete working engine for change and make the thing run again. Those engines are very low cost and when maintained will last forever. I have an 85 Turbo that I'm working on so if I need any parts I'll definitely let you know.

I can get pretty good discounts on LTL shipping. If you'd like a quote just let me know the zip codes its going from and to and I'll send you a price on it.

1-6+8... equals 3. err... I would choose my Z32 when I get it finished and for the SUV I'd get a FX45... with a pair of turbos.

I wouldn't consider the VG33 a truck engine any more than the VG30E. Granted it was used in their trucks and vans both of those engines have quite a bit of low end torque. Either engine would be a blast with some boost.

Unorthodox Racing makes pullies for the 300ZX so if the accesories are positioned similar to the VG30DE(TT) they should work... however, the engine revs to 7k stock right? I don't see that being a problem for the accessories.

higher compression pistons, headwork, valve timing (can easily make or break an n/a engine). i think the q45 throttle body might be a bit of overkill for an n/a engine. most mild turbo engines and even some higher power street setups don't even need 3 inch. on the valve timing part of it overlap is an n/a engine's best friend. if you can get it timed to where the exhaust helps suck in fresh air from the intake that'll help make quite a bit more power. that particular setup is how n/a engines can get 100% and better volumetric efficiency. a company built an n/a VG30E that made 300 hp and i believe 240 ft. lb. of torque. you should be able to beat that pretty easily with enough work on the engine. (that particular VG30E costs right under $9,000 from that company)

Same here, definitely getting one.

The newer HY's have the 90 degree bend (something like 2004.5 and up or 03 and up). The older HY's are pretty much exactly like the HX minus the 9 cm, single entry turbine housing and a slightly smaller compressor. They both have the same style compressor housing with the v-band flange on the end.

Z32 5-speed bell housing isn't removeable. The VG30E(T) bell housing bolt pattern is the same as the VG30DE(T)(TT) and the VE30DE (no reason to include the VE... just some useless information incase someone wants to use the VE I suppose). Anyways... on the shifter, the beautiful thing about having linkage instead of directly in the tranny is you can fabricate your own linkage to put it pretty much wherever you want it. If the linkage is too far forward, weld together some bars to make it longer. If its too far back, shorten the stock ones to move it forward. Should be pretty easy if you have the stuff to do it.

I'm saving money as we speak. 1. Mark Cookson (mtcookson HybridZ/Nico) 2. 3. 4. 5. More? Lets go guys!!

That's pretty funny... a long while back I was telling one of my friends to put a VG30DETT into a 74 Nova he had.