SATAN

You should post up a little bit about the situation that occured when it broke. Was it just brute torque that broke it? Or was it some wheel hop that was happening? Did your LSD not transfer power evenly to both wheels, or did it do it just too late since it is a VLSD? Any info you have to help others out would be great.

Ok, guys, I was wrong... The Q45 output shaft and the R230 output shafts are NOT the same... They have the same SPLINE COUNT, but they are not the same shafts... This pic (Made by OneSickZ) Clearly shows that they are different. Again, same spline count though.

Great... Now I HAVE to get my damn car going. If the damn thing is going to be in my own back yard, I have no excuse not to go.

Well, thats not the problem. I already have the z31 dizzy, The problem I am running into is that I am trying to figure out how to put the smaller z32/RB disk into my z31 dizzy. The reason is that I have an AEM wheel that I am trying to use, but it is only made for the z32 and the RB. I may just have to buy a z32 CAS and hack my z31 dizzy to make it fit inside. After all this experimental thinking I have been doing though, I may just end up using the OEM CAS from the z31 from my project. People seem to have OK luck with those I guess.

Thats not a problem, I just need someone with the rb25/26 to measure theres and tell me if it is the same size as the RB30 or L28. I mean, it should be if I have the AEM wheel designed for the z32/RB25/26, but just want to make sure.

hughdogz- Did you ever try this? I mean using the z32 CAS with your L28ET. What parts of the CAS are you using? Are you just using the wheel? This is the info I need to know. If you are just using the wheel. then I know that the z32 wheel is the same diameter of the L28 wheel. The L28 CAS will bolt into my z31 dizzy. I need the z32 wheel from AEM to fit into my z31 dizzy some how, but the z31 CAS disk appears to be larger than all the other CAS disks.

I have been posting in the z32 and RB CAS disassembly thread in the RB section about the guts of the CAS. I was wondering anyone had a diameter measurement for the OEM 280z CAS wheel. I am wondering if it is the same size as the z32 and the RB25/26 wheel. I do know that it is the same size as the RB30 wheel as quoted from garvice.-"RB30 wheel is the exact same size as the L28 wheel (Put them over top of each other and they are the same, same cyl 1 position too)." But I was wondering if the L28 wheel is the same diameter as the RB25/26. Or if you don't know if it is the same, then if you do know what the diameter is... Here are the diameters of the z31 wheel and the z32 wheel that AEM sends with their ECU's. z31 wheel. z32 wheel from AEM

Well, what are your goals? I don't know a whole lot about your build. But from the sound of it, you are looking at drag racing and getting it into the 9's? If that is not what you are planning on doing then please enlighten us. The modern motorsport axle stubs I would not think would be needed unless you simply HAVE to have them to run the z31 cv shafts. That part I don't know about on the s30's. I guess it would make sense though. You can take the carrier out of an 4/87-89 turbo and bolt it right into your 280z r200 case. If you get a good one, then the lsd action is not too bad at all. As far as finding your lower gearing goes, I'm sure there are some long nose ring and pinion setups out there you could find to get you around the 4:1 mark. From what it sounds like, you know exactly what you need to do, now you just need to do it. You will answer a lot of your own questions once you start taking things apart and seeing for yourself.

Well, that is with my plastic calipers, but I trust them to be within .005" or so. Z32 wheel from AEM. OEM z31 wheel.

Hey Garvice, Does that mean that both the L28 and the RB30 disks have a diameter of about 1.964" The z32 wheel I have measures 1.964" The Z31 wheel measures 2.121" The Z31 CAS seems to have the same measurements as to how it bolts into the dizzy as the L28. SOOOO... if the L28 wheel and the RB30/RB25 or RB26 wheel along with the z32 wheel are all the same diameter of 1.964" Then I could run the L28 CAS with the AEM 24 slot z32 wheel in it all plugged into my z31 distributor. I don't know if the RB30 has the same size wheel as the RB25 and RB26's though.

I dunno man... look at this pic again. The z32 wheel (on top) has the very top of each of its slots lining up with almost the very bottom of the z31's wheel. I couldn't give you an exact measurement unless I pulled stuff apart and lined it up again, but basically, what every the z32 slot 'height' is, is how far apart they are from each other. So, you are saying where the two screws that hold the optical sensor over the wheel have bushing in them (under the screws). If I pull those out (which I haven't looked at yet) then the optical eye will have more "play" and be able to move in and out some? I may have to give this a try and see if it is enough. However, I have to figure out a way to tell if it is lined up properly. I don't think eyeballing it is the correct way to go about it.

Well, the AEM wheel is specifically designed for the z32 and the RB CAS, so I KNOW it will fit in those. But yes, I agree, if I could get the z32 cas to fit into the z31 dizzy, that would be a pretty easy solution.

Its cool man, I'm not in a super hurry. It's not like I am waiting on anyone to put this thing in RIGHT NOW. The other thing I was thinking of doing was buying a blank wheel from someone like Wolf EMS or something but the correct size for the z31 dizzy. Then just take it to a water jet cutting place and have them do it. It would probably cost me a decent amount to have them cut the blank wheel though.

mtnickel - One other thing. If you can't use the OEM wheel except for the 6 slot setion... If you look at the wheel from AEM, Does that mean it uses that one slot (which is all it has for valve timing) to tell TDC and then just counts each 30* crank slot on the wheel to know where exactly each cylinder is at and if it is on comp stroke or exhaust stroke? For example: The one valve timing slot passes for TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Then it counts 12 teeth (on a 24 tooth wheel) to know that #1 cylinder is at TDC again, but this time on exhaust stroke. This seems to me like the only way it could be done for the computer to be able to fire injectors sequentially. Is that right?

Man, if you could post some pictures of that, that may help tremendously! If it did bolt right into the z31 dizzy, drilling/notching a hole in the side of it would be no problem! I don't have a z32 CAS though. I really don't want to buy one just to find out they will not swap out though. mtnickel - why is it that you can't use the 360 slot section? Is it just too much for the computer to process? That seems to be the case since the z32's run like crap with the OEM cas disk. So the larger diameter of the z31 disk still wouldn't be enough then... dammit! It seems my only way out is to hope that the z32 CAS bolts into the z31 dizzy so I can use the AEM disk. I could try the cutting/punching or what have you to the oem Z31 disk to mimic the AEM disk, but poping those TINY TINY pieces out, then filling in the rest with JB weld or whatever, seems like a huge pain. May be the only way out though if the z32 cas doesn't bolt in. Ugh...

Ok... I am trying to do the exact opposite of what you did. "Huh" you say? I am trying to put the z32 CAS disk into my z31 distributor. I understand you went with the z31 disk because of the larger diameter and better resolution BUT, I am running an AEM. AEM sends a different wheel all together with their ECU's. This wheel bolts directly into the z32 CAS and supposedly works tons better. Here is what the z32 wheel from AEM looks like. I have it sitting over the z31 wheel for those wondering about the size difference. 24 "tooth" AEM disk for the z32 sitting on top of a z31 disk. Now, you said you had to adjust some things for the optical sensor to line up with the new z31 cas wheel because it is larger. I have to do the same thing, but opposite. I have to move it in for the smaller z32 wheel. My question is this. Since you had both dizzy's in front of you (I don't have a z32 dizzy) do you think that the z32 sensor itself would bolt into the z31 distributor? It has the 3 screw holes like the z32 does, but i don't know if it is the same pattern. If this was the case, I could just pull the plastic sensor out of a z32 dizzy and bolt it and my AEM z32 wheel into my z31 dizzy. Here is the other thing I am thinking of. Since it seems that EVERYONE is upgrading to the larger z31 disk and having it work great, Maybe I can just configure the z32 AEM to read the z31 disk with good results. Here are a few more pics just for reference z32 AEM wheel mocked up into a stock z31 CAS. z31 disk inside a z31 CAS

Its not going to fix its self. You need to pull the tranny and inspect the clutch. If there is nothing wrong with the clutch, then the culprit is most likely the tranny. Couldn't be much of anything else. BTW, If you know you have an old clutch when you pull your tranny, save yourself the headache later and just replace the clutch and all related parts while you have the tranny out.

Wow Just so you guys know, coolant did not come from the bolts in the bell housing. I don't care how long they are.

DETT is the way to go. Just do it.

I am a welder/fabricator in Denver. I do mainly z31's but if the price is right I will do other stuff that is needed. Here is a link to some stuff that I do. http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=10453

Decided I would post a pic of the surge tank installed now. I like it a lot! I like the Red anodized hard line that I paid to much for LOL. Here check it out and let me know what you think.

If it did not have the finned cover then chances are good that the previous owner DID NOT swap in the CLSD or VLSD along with not bothering to change to the finned cover. If you have the diff apart, you can look at the pinion gears inside. If it has four of them, it is an LSD, if it only has two, then it is an open diff. Sorry for the late reply

Not all turbo z31's just 87-89 turbo z31's.

22mm 1.5

The VLSD part of the diff is actually sealed and you cannot change the fluid inside or service it. As for the fluid in the case, I dont know what would be BEST, but chances are good that if you just replace it with some new fluid it will be fine. New fluid of correct specs that is.