SATAN

Or if you want aftermarket turbo manifolds or larger fuel rails for more common injectors, I sell this stuff. Or if you want a race sheet metal intake manifold... Google search Diabolic Z Products. Or just create an account at z31performance.com cause that's where you would find all of these vendors including myself, along with any info you could ever imagine about the z31.

What? No... Instead of putting the maf in front of the turbo to where the turbo is sucking air through it (like OEM)... Put it somewhere on the intercooler plumbing where the turbo is pushing air through it. Preferably after the intercooler for cooler air being less stressful on the maf. This makes it to where the only plumbing in front of the turbo, is the air filter itself.

Find a 4" filter that fits and convert to a blow through MAF setup.

The link doesn't show up for me, but I can only assume it is for the turbo relocation manifolds I make, since I am the only one who makes them for the VG30ET. I can understand why it may seem expensive when it has taken over two years for you to put a 2JZ into a 280z due to lack of funds, but I don't understand the garbage comment. I have never had one of these fail on anyone, they work great and they bolt onto the factory cross over pipe. I ran an 11.5 in the 1/4 on mine and could have gone more had I more injector to work with. That being said... It looks like there is TONS of room for a VG30ET in an S30 chassis! I love the project, keep it up!

I'm trying to figure out what you guys are doing here. Why are you trying to hybrid these two diffs together? Obviously the best option would be with the larger Armada 33 spline shafts with the TT VLSD carrier. But that is not an option due to the spline count difference. So please forgive me, but what is it you are trying to accomplish here other than having I nice new rebuilt and painted diff?

I would lay money on it with you however, to answer a turbo is too big before knowing what the goal is, is impossible for anyone UNLESS they were assuming. But yes, judging by the question, It was very easy to assume the turbo is too big, as to anyone needing a turbo that size would most likely know why they are getting it. I was just trying to make a point. I guess it was a bad point to try and make in this thread though. Oops,LOL.

The GT45 the OP is talking about is not a real GT45 as the one in the link you posted. The inducer on the OP's turbo is only 68.7mm where as a real GT45 is MUCH larger than that. To the OP, Since you never actually mentioned your goals for the vehicle (that I noticed), not one person here can tell you if this turbo is too big or not, despite what people have already posted in this thread. However, I will go off of a hunch that they are all right and the turbo will most likely be too big for the goals that you did not mention. Also, with the max elevation you will see being 2,450ft, you aren't going to have to worry about one turbo to the next in that aspect, as 2,500 feet is not that bad. I race at an elevation of 6,800ft. At that point, you DO have to take elevation into consideration when selecting a turbo.

No difference

Well, if your complete lower end is stock, then I can't imagine people make more than 400-500 on the stock L series blocks. I am a VG30 guy myself, so I don't know much about the L series but I still don't think it will hold more than that turbo will make. Basically, that turbo seems like a good match for your current situation. Even if you were to build the engine for high HP levels, I would still start with that turbo to see how you like the feel of 400+whp. Also, it says it is a stage 3 turbine, but it does not mention the A/R ratio on the turbine housing. So, that could change things slightly, but I imagine it is the typical .63 A/R.

You should keep that turbo, and do a build around it. Get a better cam and do what is needed to make the turbo fit. This will accomplish MANY things. 1. You will get good power from the turbo if you build the engine to handle it. 2. You will make it a point to KEEP the turbo your girl friend gave you. 3. This will give you MEGA brownie points with this GF if you keep this particular turbo. Basically, what it boils down to is... KEEP THIS WOMAN HAPPY! Oh, the turbo is nice too, so work with it. It won't matter what turbo you get if you are dramatically increasing power levels, as they will ALL have custom work involved. Your 440cc injectors will not get you above 450whp (unless you are jacking with fuel pressure), so that turbo is a good match for what you currently have (fuel system wise). I don't know what the rest of your build consists of though. Also, if the cam stops making power at 5,000 RPM, that does not mean you shift at 5,000rpm. You can take the engine to 6,000, the turbo will start making boost around 2800-3000 and that will give you a 3000rpm power band on a 6000rpm redline. That's a FINE powerband.

The answer is yes. Things you need. Matching ring and pinion. Correct pinion length for the case. (short nose or long nose). correct shimming.

That's weird that it didn't work. Did you pressurize the actuator before installing everything to make sure the valve was opening correctly? I Have a video of mine working. Sound is super distorted though since the camera is in the engine bay. After I hooked everything up on mine, it all worked like normal (same boost level), however boost just came on quicker like it was supposed to. As far as the fire suit goes, yeah it is just a single layer. I didn't know that it was only going to be good for right where I'm at now. Had I known that, I would have gotten one good into the 8's...

I'm running a 75mm. I am about 400whp away from maxing it out though. I'm sure their largest one could flow a fairly efficient 700whp with those super aerodynamic billet wheels. I don't know what the price range will be, but I can tell you that I will not be surprised when I find out they are the most expensive race turbo's available.

Press releases from a month ago? Got me. Is it a press release? I'm posting stuff I searched for and found on the internet, just like everyone else here can do. So I don't know, maybe.

http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarner-efr-turbos.html Gamma Ti turbine wheels with the weight roughly that of the compressor wheel Stainless cast turbine housings Non water cooled capable ceramic ball bearing cartridges optional Integrated BOV's Intigrated shaft speed sensor ports Superior internal waste gate applications Billet compressor wheels Boost control solenoid comes standard. Summary: Borg Warner dabbled into the performance world ever so slightly and had HUGE success. Now they have focused SOME attention to the race market and in turn have developed a PHENOMENAL turbo charger!

YEAH QUICK SPOOL!!!!!!!! Dude, I love that you went 11.1 @ 133mph on only 8psi... It took me 22psi to get a 134 trap out of half the engine size you are running. You bump that thing up to 15-20 psi and it will put you in the 8's. You got the cage cert, now you just gotta get a better launch and maybe slightly more power to start pulling your 9.9's so you can get your license. After that, let all hell break loose! You are ahead of me though. I still have to go get my cage certified. And I just found out my fire suit is only good to like a 10.0 or 135mph or something like that.

I have not seen the NA Z32 block, only the TT block. The holes I am talking about are... If you take the TT oil pump and fit it to a 33 block, then the two top mounting holes do not line up. They are further out on the block by about 1/4" or so than where the VG33 pump lines up. These are the holes that would have to be tapped into the block that was discussed in this thread. When I was at the shop a couple days ago explaining what I was doing to my friend, I was looking at the TT block and saw that there were 4 holes in that spot, instead of just the two that are needed for the pump. It looked as though you could take the VG33 pump and fit it to the TT block. Porsche 911's have always come with dry sumps from the factory. You don't have to change their belts every 500 miles and you don't service their pumps every 1500 miles especially when you are going 3k between oil changes. Also, why would you go through all the trouble of machining down the crank pulley only to have to figure out what to do for accessory belts again later? When instead, all you have to do is mount a pulley on the front of the harmonic balancer and then line the pump up with that. Basically, you are making a dry sump sound WAY MORE difficult that it is in reality. Here is a VH45 in a z31 that stinky did. He is utilizing a drysump system. It's not that bad man...

That should be the ONLY thing stopping you from doing it... the spline count. Typical axles are a 29 spline count and I BELIEVE... the others are 30 spline. If the spline count is the same, then you can MAKE everything else work. Then again, even if it was the higher spline count, you could MAKE that work too, but it would involve custom half shafts at that point.

That's what I'm saying though. All of that work/money in machining to utilize a better pump. If you are going through this much trouble just to run an OEM wet sump pump... why not go drysump at that point? I just picked up an ENTIRE 4 stage drysump system for $1100. The only thing I have to do is modify an oil pan and mount the components. While the twin turbo oil pump seems to be a good pump, it still has nothing on well designed dry sump setup. Then again, I suppose that is not what this thread is about... It is just about what it takes to put a TT crank into a 33 block. On a side note, I noticed that the TT block actually HAS the extra holes for both style pumps. I was explaining to my friend (who had a TT block on and engine stand) what it would take to get my TT crank to work, when I noticed the extra set of holes for both style oil pumps. What vehicle would utilize the other pump but a TT block I wonder?

I don't know man... How are you going to space out the cam gears? The only way I see this being an option is if you have a different hub machined for a set of adjustable cam gears. You will need a longer stud if you space out the tensioner. You are going to have to fill in the block where sealing edge of the pump does not line up, up top. Then all of your accessories are going to have to be re aligned. I am not saying that it can't be done. I just think saying it is going to be easy is a bit of a stretch. While I agree that the TT pump is by far a better pump... That is a lot of work to still be running an OEM pump.

Ok, I actually just figure all of this out last night before even finding this thread LOL. Here is what I am doing... Running TT crank in VG33E block. Running VG33 oil pump case only. When using the VG33E oil pump on the TT crank, the oil seal wants to ride right where the oil pump drive and the oil pump seal journal meet (it is radiused smaller a little bit, a void if you will). If you try to put the oil seal there, it will most likely leak VERY badly. I know because I put the TT crank into the block and then put on the VG33 oil pump, and it's not a good situation. I am going to weld in this void, and have the crank turned down as is mentioned in this thread, so the timing gear can line up properly. Basically what is happening is the journal that the oil seal rides on, just has to be "moved back" about 6mm or so. This will fix where the oil seal rides and where the timing gear needs to line up. I however understand the reasoning to want to run the TT oil pump. That is a man's pump! However... Screw that. I am just running a shell of a VG33E pump so I can utilize the oil seal. Then I am going to run an entire dry sump system (which is on the way now). 260DET has it right though, If you read everything he has posted, it makes 100% sense if you understand the differences between both setups. But MAN... spacing out cam gears, tensioners, pulley's, blah blah blah... Just run a dry sump at that point... On a side note, after I do this, then I will LEGITIMATELY by a hybrid Z member LOL. Cause currently, I don't really have anything that is a hybrid on my car other than a z32/z33 brake system and z32 cam sensor and ECU.

As long as the ring and pinion come from a short nose R200, then the it should bolt up to your Q45 R200 carrier just fine. Actually, ANY R200 ring gear will bolt up to your carrier however, you have to have the accompanying pinion gear with it, therefore it HAS to come from a short nose differential.

So wait... There is no ground strap? I made my own extension cord too for my TIG. Only, I used the actual 220v cable that they sell. It has 4 wires, Red, black, White and a bare copper. Red and Black are power, White is Common and copper ground strap. I think it cost me like $50 to make a 12' cord with a receiver box. I have it wired directly into my breaker box. This gets my TIG anywhere I need it in my garage. So is it ok to do it without running the bare copper wire?

Actually, if you can, you want to get the 93-95. Anything before 93 has timing chain guide issues. And as mentioned, the 96 has the VVT issue.

If you want I can sleeve a set of axles for you. I run a 4130 Cr-Mo pipe on the outside of the main shaft and weld it inside of the CV joints. I pulled a 1.52 60' and I'm SURE they will take more next season when we start turning up the boost.