jack46

Big Geek How do you determine cr from compression test? I thought 165lbs meant CR * atmosphere + atmosphere = atmospere (CR + 1) or 165 =~ 10 CR is that what you meant? I was also told this was not correct so would like to know if there is a way to estimate it thanks

Ok I'm new to this so please bear with me. I understand the rear strut reinforcement since the power is applied to rear tires and seems to me alot of bouncing and stress will be applied there. By contrast the front seems there would be alot less stress since the engine torque will try to rotate the engine about the z axis. Won't this torque mainly try to twist the strut towers inward and outward? Trying to understand the need for the 8 point on front. I agree there is a need for side to side but.... Also does anyone make a front brace that clears a V8? I use a 14 inch cleaner and seems most will interfere Thanks

Stony sorry took me so long to respond. Im sure you are right but Im baby HP compared to you. I have about 300 rwhp and do 8 sec 1/8 I just got my 4.11 and I'm hoping that will get me faster but time will tell. If I get fast like you (careful what u ask for) I'm sure I will need a solid axle Where I live we only have 1/8 mile tracks unless you drive a few hrs so I set for that Thanks again

I thought and believe I read in books that the freeze plugs determine the number of bolts on 400 mains also. But a machinist told me that is not true. He said he had four blocks and one three was 4 other a 2 sooo. Maybe the freeze plugs will id the better blocks?

I would go with cubes. Easy to get HP with more cubes. Find a block, old style is cheaper to find and do. A 383 a crank (new) are like $250. Add TRW 2256 forged pistons, 400 rods, now get vortec heads, summit cam kit k1107 i think it is $80 (234/244 .480 .510) LT1 springs $30. You will be >325 HP and torque monster (I have 300 RWHP). I have it not costly and very nice on street and strip. It idles 650 in gear (I have a hi stall about 2800 need that trust me if auto and auto is CHEAPER--TH350) Block 400 Crank 250 Heads 400 (finished) Pistons 250 Rods 150 rebuild kit 250 intake 200 HEI 100 750 Vac 100 2100 And machining and should be a nice setup at lets say $2500 TH 350 $400 stall $300 in with all around $3200 something to consider it is possible I did it

Thanks Jon I'm trying to get an R 200 from a 200ZX as we speak I think it is from an 85 or 86 turbo. I will use it on a 260 with 383 ~300 rwhp 8.0 1/8 hoping to get it to 7.8 or so I have 24 inch slicks welded dif (3.54 now) it has a team g 234 244 .480 .510 cam so hopin it will lite me up some. I hear gears help alot maybe I will soon know

I'm new to this but thought you took the center piece from lsd and ring from the unit you are going to use it in. That way keeping the shims from the unit you have. Do I have it backward? Sorry I'm sure this is a basic question, but I don't know the answer and have not seen it explained. For my example I hope to have a 4.11 R 200 then find say a 3.7 LSD. I would take center section from 3.7 and replace the center of the 4.11 and use the spacers from the 4.11. Thanks

Ok Im new here...I have a 260 Z with an R 200 3.54 welded spider gears. I presently have 383 team g intank 234/244 .480/.510 cam running about 8.0 1/8. Im considering putting in 4.11 I have an opportunity to get one for 175 shipped also found a 3.9 but it is 175 plus shipping. I know there are no absolutes but what should I expect from this mod I run 24' slicks. Im hoping it will get me to 7.8, I have juice that I will also use but felt I should get in 7's before juicing Thanks