jack46

Dang I think my heart skipped a beat thinking of that trap speed! I have almost decided I will tub and go Ford 9". I want to eliminate all possiblities, but seems few real choices and a friend has offered to help, and he has done a Z with Ford before. He is also a welder so that alone makes me lean toward it then there is availability of gears etc. What blower you running or planning on using? I presently have a 383 that may get blown or may have to destroke it since it has 400 rods and to get a crank that can take the blower want something forged and seems no one has one for 400 rods and destroking will drop me from 9.2 CR so might be best anyway.

GetintheZ Where in TN? Im in Tullahoma tween Nashville and Chattanooga. If you won't be using the 400 I'm considering building another motor and would be interested in the 400. Let me know Slow260z@yahoo.com

From the little I understand of timing there are three values: initial, vacuum, and mechanical. I'm told SBC like a total of 36 degrees as a ballpark number. If you set initial to 8 advance this leaves you 28 for dizz. If your dizz is set for a max of 28 degrees then no matter what that is all it can advance be it x from vacuum and y from mechanical (centrifical) the two are limited to the total for the dizz which in our example is 28. To verify total advance you can buy timing mark tape for the size harmonic balancer you have then rev engine to about 3000 rpm and see what the total advance of your system is. All timing is supposed to be in by 3000 rpm so no need to rev much past that just verify that the dizz is not adding more. I hope this works it is how I checked mine so should be ok (verified it with a set back light that a friend lent me)

Many have told me an HEI is as good or better than many aftermarket dizzy's. They say if you simply put a better coil in the HEI it will go to lets say 6500 (conservative number I think) that is far beyond what you will pull with stock motor so why change more than the coil? I'm not against changing it, but if it isn't going to make a noticeable difference, I ask why do it? I would suggest you plan where you want to go, and buy what gets you there. A piece here and there will in the long run cost more and perform poorer. A decent change could be a cam (Summit has combos ie cam and lifters for like $80 Sum-K1102/3 might work well with performer intake or maybe even bigger to 1105) if you go beyond stock then you will prolly need a stall converter to match the cam (can often find one for ~150 used and get ~2500 stall effective which means the convertor is prolly rated at 3200 or 3500). Or they have stalls for ~150 for smaller cams. It is combination and to simply put in a bigger cam with low compression won't help either. You need to decide how far you want to go, larger and faster is nice, but costly. Will you drive it daily, and simply want alittle more or can gas mileage take a dump etc. Trust me I was same way I didn't think it through and have tried MANY different parts! And BTW once you do get faster then the mod's to make it stay togehter get expensive as well.

I have never broken a U-joint but my outer stub axles and diff pins have broken many times. I'm in the same boat as you, I need to change something big. My car has run 1.5 60 foots, 6.9@110 1/8 miles, and 10.7@135 1/4 miles. And I'm also spraying N20 on top of a 350 with a 5 spd trans and MT slicks. But I'm breaking parts and don't feel the car is safe anymore. I have heard many like you going ALOT faster...But you are right I'm at the point I think I will tub and put the Ford hate idea but sick of not trusting it and want alot more. I planned on a bigger setup sooo seems there is little choice Here is an idea for your N20 system. Buy a 1 gallon fuel cell and mount it in the engine compartment (drivers side by the radiator). Then get a small fuel pump to supply the fuel enrichment to the N20 system. This way you can run racing fuel in the 1 gallon tank. 1 gallon of fuel will last longer than a 10 lb bottle of N20. And your Holley will get a little help from the other pump. I like the idea but right now if I juice I break the jopints but yes I have been told to do that so you can run special gas for juice. One way to limit drive train stress is to reduce the "shock" when coming off the line. I use a brake line lock to hold the car in place at the starting line and let the clutch out just a little before dumping the clutch. This technique takes up the slop in the gears, U-joints, and splines before the "take off" and reduces the hammer effect when the clutch is dropped at 5000 rpms. You could also do this with an automatic trans. Well I hold it at about 1600 1800 (stall would flash to prolly ~2600) so thought I had slack out just allowed motor to get some legs so it didnt bog at line. I also am designing a NOS controller with a micro processor to enable me to set juice to whatever value i want at any RPM. Will be a nice setup should (hope) to get it done by July and will try to sell a few to get my money out of it. They won't be high dollar and have all good features (timing set back at rpm total of 30 sets) will also have same number for nos sets) As for me.....I have decided to go 4 link with ford 9 inch with a 3.08 gear, th400 with a 2500 stall, and IC'ed turbos on an efi 350. A year or two project!!! why 3.08 didnt see post but good to hear from u

Didn't want to steal his thread anymore. I may go once more to track before changing to new rearend I'm debating changing the u joints just to throw them away. Is why I say may seems stupid to put new ones in then throw them away. You said how about letting me know next time you go to huntsville jack! Like to see a fellow Hybrider make a few passes.Mines going 11.6@120 1/4 around 7.6 1/8th right now.R200 and halfshafts still hanging in there(knock wood).Soon as I get Fuel pump straightened out,gonna turn up the laughing gas a little more.7.0 maybe? I'll be happy with that My theory is it is the launch that gets u joints. I am now down to 1.64 (motor) with 4.11 and if I try to spray the joints go. I feel the choices are 1. Don't juice or juice late ( 20 30 40 feet out or time delay) 2. CV joints with 200 or R 230 3. Or stronger axle like ford 9" I wanted 7.00 as well seems for my setup I can't get there without more work. I won't say you can't or won't get there, seems too many variables to say, but as 60 foots diminish the stress on the joints seems to go way up. And for low 7.'s u need a really good 60 or a HUGE motor to make it up. 2 questions where do u run 1/4, and what rear gear you have? I went to holley Blue i think it is (I suspect my stock line isn't flowing what I need, and will change it next go around and put in a 1/2" line). Seems there is no end. Nice to meet you look forward to seeing you in huntsville soon I will keep in touch

PS I guess I repeated myself there and forgot to add what I meant to add. The intake is a Team G which is rather high flowing to 7500 or so maybe ~7000 for 383. The exhaust is open 1 5/8" headers at the track so not a problem (the 1 5/8" header will limit the future potential of motor, but at about 6.3 - 6.4 1/8). It really comes down to the 1.94 stock cast heads. Like I said I'm glad I didnt buy a set since then I would be limited on what I could do. PPS ZFan 'I would bet the heads are the problem. That cam is no smaller that mine. I run a 236/242 duration, 553/540 lift hydr. roller cam. But the heads are 205 runners with 2.05/1.60 valve heads..Canfields.' My Cam is TINY compared to yours! My lift is .065" on intake and .030 on exhaust and btw you are a roller! Which makes those differences even greater. Even the 4 degree duration is closer to a cam size plus the lift so you are MUCH larger! I ran the cam change on my engine analyzer and the cam alone increases HP by 35 at 5500 and is a sizeable increase across the entire range. And my heads are also much smaller valves as stated are 1.94 maybe 165 cc not sure but alot smaller. My friend has those same heads |(used straight from box) on his car (3500 lbs) and is running 6.4 soo those heads are monsters! You must have a convertor that is bogging you off line then motor pulls like a beast. But like we said once you don't bog the shock to u joints will go up exponantially. I had a 2600 stall but in reality the motor only got maybe 1800 I couldn't turn a cold slick on the street! I went to an effective 2600 stall with 4.11 and I can roast them on street, but hook 100% at track. I guess I missed what you said on stall I think you mean the stall stated RPM is 2600 effective is less than 2000 right? Like I said on my small cam and heads I didn't have power to turn them and I beat your motor <3000 RPM after that yours quicks my pants! So I would say you aren't shocking the joints at all if that is the case and that is why you aren't having a problem, but you arent getting what the motor has. I'm getting all my motor has but it pushed me to a decision point.

660 Z Glad it wasn't your CV setup. I think you were typing as I was writing the first post. I didn't mean to steal your thread, and I apologize if it appears like I did. Seemed I redirected it without intending to. I hope you feel it has added to your post and not hurt yours. My setup is Small compared to most. But small is relative. The cam is 234/244 .488/.510 hydraulic ($79 Summit cam with lifters), and heads are stock cast iron 89 truck 'swirl' heads (NO porting 1.94 intake), I run 1.5 roller rockers, I will be going ALOT larger once I'm set. This was what was available so what I started with. My friend runs a machine shop and he has helped me and like most people new performace, I didnt know what I wanted to do. We basically have the new chasis planned and it will resemble the setup shown on this site on another post. Have 9" ford etc I will show pics once we start it. I plan to tub it coil over ladder bar, 8 point bar then use same engine to debug chasis then change to real motor. I plan to use this 383 re ringed for blower, Canfield Aluminum heads (72 cc) ~9.2 CR, O ringed 10+ lbs boost (setup will go much higher) blah blah blah and will run <6.5 1/8 late this year or next. The motor now I figure has maybe 400 Gross Hp not bad just doesn't have the heads, but has gobs of torque (times at prestage suggest ~300 RWHP). I knew it was small when I put it together, but wasn't sure how far I wanted to go, now I plan to go to next level. A friend is helping and essentially I will use his setup he has a Camaro and runs 6.4's weighing almost 3500 so I'm confident at 2800 lbs I will have the capability to basically run as fast as I dare by changing the boost. The setup will deliver 10 lbs through about 16+ so 6.5 1/8 is well within reach. I live in Tn and race in Huntsville Al so 1/8 is all I have, but I'm confident 6.5 at roughly 110 will be a thrill. As I said the motor pulls 1.64 60 foots on motor with no boost or juice, so that number will drop significantly. Especially once all the flex is removed and ladder suspension enables better weight distribution. One thing I can say at track I hook 100% with 8.5" slicks and creaned the joints with 120 NOS shot I was expecting to run <1.55 60 foots if joints didnt break. Last year I juice once and at time I was running 1.71 60 foots and times dropped to 1.61 soo dropping .09 on 60 foot with improved gearing was possible but a moot point now. Thanks again for pointers. Will keep all informed on progress

Yeah seems many going faster and aren't breaking them (yet). What are your 60 foot times? I have a small cam and small 1.94 heads so launch hard but die out (will convert to larger once I have it right). I'm thinking since I do have a small cam 234/244 .488/.510 I launch hard then fold, is the only reason I can guess why I break them when Im so much slower, but not sure. Seems many go low 7's with joints if they are above 1.7 or so 60 foot that is a guess of mine not sure it is valid.

I have my Z tach converted for V 8 and all was well for many years now that Im racing it, well lets say it is in adequate. It bounces severely and getting to where I think it is time to put a real tach in. Has anyone found something that will look decent in the original location? I know I can put one in front but seems crude. Thanks in advance Jack

Mark (or others interested in R 200 setup) Write me at Slow260z@yahoo.com Like I said I think I'm going to go 9" and will have a few goodies others might be interested in: three R 200's 4.11 welded solid 3.54 welded solid 3.90 open stiffened mustache have to show you can't explain it, but basically ties the mustache to the two arms that bolt to body in back (stiffens the stache and hold 'A' frames solid, bolts thru mustache with urathene bushings) also have 2 mounted 14" 26.5 by 8.5" slicks hardly used (honestly three runs and a 4" launch :>( paid like $325 plus mounting the day I went to track rear strut bar stiffens the rear towers (I'm an early 260 so think it will only fit a 240 or 260). I will sell all. If you think you can use R 200 this is a stout set I have I could change my chunks rather quickly and I had additional side mounts on setup as well (kept the R 200 from moving in any direction again will have to email pics I used it on solids (4.11 and 3.54) didn't need it on peg leg since it spun easilly). And I could play with open 3.90 on street or put in 3.54 or 4.11 if i wanted or needed to really dig in...Boys and their toys.

So sorry about your CV's. I recently changed to a 4.11 R 200 got my times down best a week ago was 7.53 1/8 1.64 (all three runs) 60 foots (small 383), but when I tried to juice (120 shot is all) I creamed the u joints (one axle broke then luckilly immediately the other so i never really launched could have been trouble with one wheel pulling hard). So I'm at the decision point considered going to CV's, but if you creamed em no sense in considering them further. SBZ don't talk to loud the u joints are funny heard a few people going faster with solid u joints, but seems problems are more common than people having em hold up, and seems about the time you get the car running good is when they give. I have heard one person juicing it like hell going 6.4's 1/8 and changing em after 4 or 5 runs. A pain but they hold for him but like i said I never saw him, and he doesn't juice until lets say .3 - .5 sec after launch then I think uses two stages they say (BIG stages like 350 total) I have about decided to bite the bullet and tub and put ladder bars and 9" under it. Seems that is only thing I have never heard anyone breaking. I was told a year ago by a Z guru here to do it then, I waited now I know why he is a guru here. Wish I could state his name to tell him he was right, but I'm sure he knows he was and is.

Great job. I have been on the fence to do mine. Your pics seem to have convinced me. I run 1.64 60 foots, and if i juice i break axles (small 383 234/244 1.94/1.6 valves 10.5 : 1 r 200 4.11). I wanted to put my real motor in which will drop my 7.53 1/8 quite a bit but to do so I need to make the leap to real rear end. What kind of dollars did the setup run if you don't mind saying? I'm thinking of ladder bars and not going all the way to 4 link to reduce cost some. Is that penny wise dollar foolish? Thanks PS I will be running a 383 with prolly 10-12 lbs boost

I see these bars used often. A simple question is does the front really torque and move that much? I put one on the rear and not sure I noticed a change. Seems to me the front has the cross member taking the bulk of the engine loads until u lift the front end? I must be missing something since all the pics I see show an in line 6 yet I have never seen one used with a V8 conversion Sorry for a basic question.

thanks. Yes pistons will be forged, wish I could drop CR alittle more but 8.5 seems about it since chamgers are only 58 cc I wish I could afford a forged crank but unless i find one on a deal it will be the stock one The kit I have has many combinations for boost so thinking I will try it first with 8 psi and see...of course we always want more once we have it and i think it would be safe to maybe 10

Thanks. I have decided to put 8.5 CR in the car and try to run higher boost. The motor is apart so I think that is my best bet my machinists recoomended a set he uses in his blown chevy made for super/turbo charging with ring lans lower on piston. Hoping this willl correct alot of the problems. Also, I think I have decided to go with the LT4 Hotcam kit now like $500 for springs cam retainers and roller rockers. The cam when compared to others on a desktop dyno performs about equal with less lift and duration. I figure better to lessen stress on valve train for the 5hp loss

Ed Wright I believe is with Fastchips. Why if I get a chip will I need a translator? Don't mean to sound stupid, but this car will be driven 90% of time at track. I feel with the charger, and 4.11 gears it won't be a daily driver, so why will I need a translator? What will the translator accomplish? Is what you are talking about similiar to a programmer (adjust parameters?). Remember this is a 93 non MAF. you said: What about something like Accel (isn't it same as DFI?)standalnoe/piggyback? I have no idea what you meant with this? Are you asking if I will use a digital fuel injection system? I hope to modify the LT 1 to do the job since I have heard many others doing about the same with a modified stock system. PS yo2001 Thanks for reply I was hoping to get more information. I have never run an LT 1 and new to that engine so what can be done is still a mystery to me. I have the engine because I got it for what I thought was a good deal. This week I hope to get the charger and start devoring the information so I can make reasonably intelligent choices based on inputs from people with the experience I lack

Will running GM MAF translator via laptop be necessary if I get a custom chip from Ed Wright? I thought that program was for 'tweaking' thanks I will look at what it will get me

Hello I'm a relative newbie here. I have a 76 260 Z with a 383 Chevy and a th350. With a 3.45 rearend I ran 8.0 in 1/8 last year, and just bought a Vortech supercharger for an LT1. I want to run 10 lbs of boost I have an LT 1 and want to put in a matched cam and pistons to allow the car to operate correctly when completed. The computer is from a 93 so I will need to get a custom chip (have heard fastchips is the place to go) and wondered if anyone here has a similiar setup? I'm hoping/expecting the setup to bring about 425 RWHP. Thanks ahead of time I tried searching but didn't have a lot of success

I have a 76 260 with a 383 a nice combo. I run a T350 and just changing to 4.11 rearend, hope it will improve my 1.7 60 foot times. What kind of hp you think you will get? Mine is a mild setup getting about 285 rwhp from my 1/8 mile times. I expect them to improve since last year I was running a 3.45 rearend. Good luck

The Dj well I glad I saw your page on internet. Was very informative. And get thread here thanks all

I used the formula on a couple motors on engine analyzer and they don't agree. I have a feeling this formula is maybe a 10% swag which is fine. From the engine analyzer I have it seems to be about 8% off. Thanks again is interesting reading Jack

Thanks Kevin I didn't like the way you did part of it but answer is the same I used logs to get rid of exponent but nice litttle trick doing it your way will need to look at that again, but the answer is the same so your way is also right. Thanks again

Ok thanks I once thought it worked, then was told it didn't. Then I saw it posted here, where someone suggested it did work but never got a reply...So I will let it die thanks

I read in a couple posts about determining CR from compression test. I thought if a car had 165 psi compression test then it would be 10 : 1 But have been told this is not true. Is there a way to determine CR I thought Compression = (CR +1)*14.7 ie CR ~= (Compression - 15)/15 at 165 CR = 10 Thanks