jack46

I have a 383 presently under my hood, and runs nice Iam building a Vortech supercharged LT1 and from what I can measure it should fit. Problems I have had is eliminating the A/C and power steering. I will acid bath the motor this week I have ported the heads and intake, and have large headers to flow the exhaust. As mentioned the Vortech carb's supercharger should fit I presently have the Team G intake with a 1" Nos plate, Holley 750 DP, Holley air cleaner with 3" element and it fits under the stock hood. Depends on the motor mounts u used I think. In hindsight I wish I had gotten the Carb'd Vortech setup alot easier but .... Stock Hood Motor

Sorry I just can NOT imagine. I'm in the 1.6x world to say .5 faster really is a concept outside my world! I want to go faster but to me 6.99 1/8 is faster...I wonder if my u joint's can handle that, a force that gets me <1.5 is just not my world. it is funny like they say there is always someone faster...But DAMN

Yea I saw in a post you said 1.15 60's Even in a dream I don't have something nearly that fast. I'm hoping to make it into the 6's 1/8 and for a street car is a good goal. Still have the R 200 but kind of doubt I can get to 6's with it oh well such is life. I'm still digesting the fact that if I left at 0 reaction you would catch me at 60 foot! Just unreal how fast some cars are, and I can't imagine how it feels that has to be a LAUNCH!

What is your setup for this 8100 RPM 414 SBC? That is one reving momma in the 1/4 wish I had that in mine since it would make my car a 9.73 1/4 miler at 141 mph

I disagree I think there is a need to explain a few basics! 1. Enlarged journals means a new CUSTOM crank. 2. How do you turn the crank down when it is already undersized? 3. And smaller journals also means it can NOT take as much HP. The 283 was modified by Chevy as I said. They used a 327 crank in a 283 block, and that is a 307! What advantage do you feel there is in making something with fewer cubic inches than Chevy provided stock with the 307? The 307 combined the reving of a 283 with improved torque! It was limited in performance and given 327, 350 etc were available for the same cost no one built 307's. But they are a good ~225 Hp motor with decent torque. Read any book and they will all say a 307 is far better for performance than a 305, just the 305 are more abundant. Here is a list that might be of use Bore/Stroke Making a 292 cubic inch motor in 2004 makes absolutely NO sense. I realise you THINK it will rev, but have you ever heard of a 400 destroked with a 350 crank? That can be built for probably the same money as your '292' and with 85 more cubes and the ability to run large valve heads etc will easily make a 400+ HP street motor. Your 'combination' MIGHT make 250 for the same $. 4.00 x 3.1 = 311 and again a SPECIAL motor it would perform between a 302 and a 327. The 302 and 327's were great motors but cubes win! And those motors pale when put next to a 377. The chevy has been worked by many expert builders and if there is a combination that isn't used, there is a reason! Good luck

I would say Chevy already did that, they used a 327 crank and called it a 307!

I don't know what you will break, but I would bet there will be a list of items in the drivetrain you will strain at a minimum. Definately should be a big increase in torque. I just started a conversion to a supercharger gotta love what they can provide. When is your target to 'launch' her?

Can't wait to hear how it does at the track. Spinning wheels is easy moving it down track against timer is alittle harder. 455 would be hell in a little Z. BTW I have a 383 in my 74 260. Welcome

Boy true words, my stubbornest or 'cheap' button has cost me so much. Always sounds expensive $1000 for aluminum heads? I don't need that...They are never cheaper next time around are they. They say the most common mistake is too big of a cam, I think it is thinking we won't want to go bigger, and not buying the BEST heads first. Like you said that's where we should concentrate, but instead I think we all try to save a little and end up paying for that mistake. I laughed when you said about intakes, I have a couple cams etc if I could have simply owned up to wanting huge from day one I could have saved some time and some real dollars. Oh well I guess that is why they are always saying live and learn right. And I hate to admit it when I was in High School '151' was high tech! I went in service in 69

Definately 350+ hp in a light car is fun and few rev like a 327! But if I try to build a motor I would likely have to pay more for a 327, so being that I'm cheap, I use what is cheapest bang for $, for me that was a 383. A 383 is tough to screw up if you get it decent exhaust it performs! The point I was trying to make, a strong street 327 is not easy to build, and the 400+ RWHP in a 327 is very tough (without or Turbo Super). And for the Camel heads a friend says exactly that people will pay through the nose for 327/300 hp heads etc he says why? I have these Vortecs that out flow them, but they insist on paying more for these? Like mentioned we love to believe what we learned long ago. Hey I remember in the late 80's people still running the '151' chevy cam (327/375 hp cam). They refused to believe it could be beat, I saw a test where they beat it with a Crane 272 the crane had better throttle response torque HP etc with less duration. Old habits and beliefs die slowly. Edit: I just saw another post and the '151' was 327/350 the 365/375 I think were solid cams. Sorry bout that

I have a Z and I am upgrading. I presently have a mild setup with a 383 that performs well. Note the unique alternator mounting low on passenger side. Gets it out of way and uses short belts so you won't throw a belt. I need to take better pictures so you can see more. Motor Once on home page put mouse on engine then click on cat and you will see a recent run at Huntsville dragstrip. Motor specifics I am going much larger so I will sell the motor, drive shaft and 2 R200. The gears are welded in both 3.54/4.11 and I also have a new set of slicks mounted on rims. Additional stuff available as well (rear strut brace) etc. I am going to do the dreaded tub and Ford 9". I have a modified mustache bar that bolts a little differently than stock and improves the stability. The problem is the car will break axles if I use juice, the joy and problem of a small valved 383 is it has bone crushing low end torque. Trust me you can see it puts me in seat 0 - 90 in 7.5 seconds ain't fast, but it is far from slow. You can read here about CV modification just think expensive. This setup will be fine with no juice others are running much faster than Iam without breaking joints sooo. Presently the car achieves 1.64 60 foots and in juicing twice I have not made it one foot so I don't have any idea what it would do with juice (I had 125 hooked up but creamed axle u joints). You have my page and email if interested let me know. Good luck I just read the post above I will say this if you can get 412 RWHP from a 327 you are far better than I am even in my dreams! That is over 500 at the flywheel. 327's were good in their day, but they ended with the 350 and definately when compared to a 383 or 400 CUBES win! I agree a 383 like my small valve won't pull much past 5600, but heck that's it's beauty, it has torque of 350+ ft lbs from 2500 - 5800, and peak of about 430ft lbs at 4500 (according to desktop engine analyzer). Say what you want, hp is nice but torque is what wins!

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My bad

You are right 1.85/6s 60 footers, and 7.99 1/8 and 12.9's 1/4 most would die for. My bad didn't mean to lengthen your post.

I fabricated my kickdown setup by going to the boneyard, and getting what was needed from an auto with a quadrojet and a Turbo 350. I got the male don't know what it is called 'bolt' with a ball on end that snaps into kickdown cable, it adheres to the carb seems to me the Quadrojet is threaded for this 'bolt', but it's been so long I can't remember. I do know I needed to open a hole up on the double pumper throttle plate, and hold it on with a nut. Also while scavaging I got the bracket that bolts to the head via the intake manifold bolts, it hold's the kickdown cable so as the throttle cable pulls the car open the lower section pulls the kickdown the opposite direction. I did fine 'tuning' hahaha with a vise, hammer etc to allow the carb to reach full throttle, but not overly strain the kickdown cable. There are still alot of cars in boneyards say a 70's chevy should definately have what you need, and if nothing else show you what I tried to explain in words. Good luck

http://www.prestage.com Claims 1/4 = 1.5832 * 1/8 I suspect something when there are that many digits of precision. So don't shoot the messenger, and for turbo's I would suspect 1.5 MAY be closer since your motors are coming alive while NA's tend to be laying down. It would be interesting to know if NA and Charged have different conversions, seems logical that they would.

I presently have a 383 SBC in my Z, and I am considering an upgrade. First I will be changing the suspension (9" Ford, tub, and ladder bars), then the engine. I can either build my 383, or use my LT1 from 93 Camaro, I have the full wiring harness, and a Vortech supercharger. I have an effective stall of ~2500 and 4.11 gears, and my goal is >=400 RWHP From what I have read, the 93 fuel injectors will be the first problem because of insufficient fuel flow. 1. Are the 93 Injectors too small for 10 - 12 lbs boost? 2. I prefer to use stock pistons (to save $$$), but is that being penny wise and dollar foolish? Or should I use forged pistons, and lower CR to <=9? (especially since juice might be added--no HP ever seems to be enough) 3. Will a reprogrammed chip handle the engine with an LT 4 Hot Cam without continual black smoke or other problems? 4. Should I sell the LT1 and simply build my 383? I have received conflicting advice from friends and other boards. Some say a MAP won't ever run right, others have said no problem with a chip. I wish I had a MAF but I have a MAP, and don't want to invest more $$$ into a setup that is doomed to fail, or perform poorly. Thanks

I have a mild 383 (300-325rwhp) 74 260 Z and I'm also comtemplating a Supercharger. The problem is I'm already tearing up axles and have to change the setup for the little I have. I have run a fastest of 7.5 1/8 and 1.64 60's. The vortech is quite appealing since it should fit under the stock hood. Do you plan on converting your differential or living with an R200?

Few times I have seen this problem it was firing order or timing and once was a bad valve. Hope it is simply the firing order easiest and cheapest to fix. What intake are you using? I was told NOT to use the gasket with just four holes unless it matches the intake. I had an RPM Performer at the time, and I was going to use that one, and was told don't. The gasket is not presently the problem, but could be in the future if motor sucks the gasket in.

Thanks Hanns I was aware of the nodular part didn't realise that's what they called it when it was part of ford diff. Pyro a guy here will sell me a 9" for $100 and $125 for different gears. He is a 4 wheeler soo I'm thinking he will be fairly reliable to deal with. Thanks for all the inputs I must say I HATE the thought of 9". But there really is no reliable solution other than that within my budget. My friend moved into his new place so still hoping end ogf month to do the change

Hanns I have never heard of a Currie 9 Plus third member, and I thought a Ford 9" with the weight of the Z was nearly indestructable? I would like to know more are there posts here or where is the best place for me to understand the Currie setup? I don't want to change then shortly after find I didn't do the change right (can't for see all problems but I want to try to do the search before I start) Thanks for the help. My car presently weighs 2820 with my fat ass in it (I'm 220).

I wish I had decided to go this far from the get go could have avoided some expense. But then I guess that is part of the appeal the trial and error makes the journey all the more rewarding. Hanns what diff are you running I'm at a decision point since I seem to be in the unlucky group that hit problems with the r 200 early. Im leaning toward ford 9" for many reasons what is your opinion Thanks PS Just what I needed was another grey beard running fast, but then hey if it wasn't for toys what would I get to play with well hmmm that didnt sound right did it

Ok I have a real odd ball. I have a 260 SBC Z and it had a BMW (yes BMW rearend) with 3.45. I have the custom mustache and custom axles so it will mate into a Z. The pumpkin is welded and I have all to place it in a z (including a custom machined adaptor that bolts to the BMW diff and the other side bolts to a Datsun). Anyone interested email me slow260z@yahoo.com Thanks

That is strange. Write me at slow260z@yahoo.com

oooops missed the turbo my bad