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NamorNhoj

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  1. When the car bogs, it will bog until the car is turned off / restarted. UPDATE: Installed a fuel pressure gauge after my (relatively) new fuel filter today under the hood. Drove around without incident for a little while, and when the car started showing signs of bogging, I popped the hood to monitor the gauge. Even as the car bogs (power cuts off sharply), the fuel pressure gauge reads a steady 28psi -- obviously low because the car won't rev past the bogging / loss of throttle. When the car is running correctly, it idles around 28-30psi, and when revved, the pressure jumps to around 40psi (which I understand to be correct pressure readings for the 280z). So now what!?
  2. Plugs are clean. No vacuum leaks. Picking up a fuel pressure gauge today.
  3. UPDATE: Decided to drive up to Yonkers from Brooklyn yesterday (followed closely by a friend in the event of something happening) and much to my surprise, the car made the entire trip without issue. That's 20 miles on the highway, through all gears, without any bogging whatsoever. Even at the toll plaza halfway through the trip, idling went without incident. Once in Yonkers, I drove the car around all weekend: maybe 30 miles, give or take. Again, no issues. Then, on my return trip this evening, upon reaching the toll plaza halfway into my trip, idling for the toll became an issue. I bogged at idle, and when I feathered the throttle to get some life back into the car, the response was flat. I turned the car off / on, and upon restarting, I was able to rev the car back into some life in order to make it through the toll. Then, for the rest of my trip, the car ran strong through all the gears. ALSO WORTH NOTING: when the car was bogging at the toll plaza, I noticed a significant drop in oil pressure. What might this be symptomatic of? Also - even though the car wasn't bogging like it had been this weekend, the car does have a bit of a sputter when trying to get rolling in first gear. (?) Any input?? Thanks!
  4. Replaced my fuel filter about 200mi ago. Need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it to really test what's up.
  5. Much appreciated. I understand the MSD 2225 unit is a good pump for the money, and if it's just $100 or so, I may just have to try it out -- a lot of swinging and missing in diagnosing this thing, tho. Who knows...
  6. I've done a pretty extensive vacuum leak check - sprayed carb cleaner on everything, listening for any sort of idle change, and there was none. Also, I don't know if a minor vacuum seal would cause for such abrupt losses of throttle - the car bogs with no response sporadically without warning.
  7. Just letting people know to what extent the stock engine has been "modified" -- really not at all.
  8. Hey all - So here's my problem with my 1976 fuel-injected 280z (in all it's layers). My car has been suffering from a rough start-up lately, where the car has trouble turning-over, until it eventually fires with just enough power to get the motor running. A few blips of the throttle helps the car find a steady enough idle that it runs smooth enough to drive. And until the car is warm, the car comes close to dying when not under load (again, I tease the throttle a little to keep the car alive). Then, it all seems to even out -- for a while. Then, a few miles into my drive (or after running strong for about 15min or so), the car will bog when I go to touch the throttle. The car will idle, but as soon as I go to give it gas, there will be no response whatsoever - almost as if the car has shut off, but it hasn't. Sometimes, if I turn the car off / on right away as I notice the problem coming on, I can get power back out of the motor enough to pull over and wait it out. Turning the car on / off a couple of times usually gives me enough second chances to where I can limp the car home. But WHAT THE **** IS GOING ON? If it's worth mentioning, I've only done so much as intake / exhaust on my car. I upgraded my coil, thinking this was the culprit, but the problem hasn't changed at all. Also had my tank refreshed / fusable links upgraded. I've changed my fuel filter, and replaced my plugs. My timing is correct (except for when it misfires when this particular problem arises), and my battery / alternator are up to snuff. What could this be? My next suspect in trying to track down the issue was going to be my fuel pump - is what I've described symptomatic of a failing fuel pump?? Any amount of help would be a big help. Thanks in advance.
  9. ^ beautiful - that's the kind of fitment I hope to go with in the very near future
  10. Ok - well, while driving down the highway today, the needle literally fell off within the gauge, so I guess it's time to replace / upgrade.
  11. Sooo, I was driving down the expressway today and hit an unavoidable pothole in the right lane (couldn't cut over in time, given the semi to my left!) and upon smashing into this pothole, my tachometer needle dropped below zero, and when I next came to a full stop, it would rest at idle backwards up towards eight again. So basically, the entire range of my needle climb as been twisted counter-clockwise on the face of the tachometer!! What could have made this happened, and where should I look to remedy the issue? Is the tachometer that prone to failure, or did I simply shake something loose somewhere under the hood? THANKS!
  12. Did some research. Seems as if the Tein's have a different pitch than the Megan coilovers, so I guess the tubes won't match up. And considering the tubes made by Stance / McKinney limit you to their pitches, I guess the coilovers you could use on these tubes are a lot more limited than I had realized. Dammit!
  13. I recently came up on a good deal on a nice set of Tein coilovers, and I was wondering if the McKinney strut sleeve kit would be compatable with these coilovers. I understand their own coilover conversion kit was designed for Megan coilovers, but are the thread pitches on the sleeves different / should this matter?? Might be a bit of a silly question - just asking to make sure! Thanks!
  14. So as far as I understand, you're using DC2 coilovers on your car - and they dont require weld-in camber plates... So, a couple of questions: a) how are you adjusting your camber? do the Tein's have steel lowers to weld to the stock spindles? c) are you at max low or closer to the middle? just how low do these coils really slam the car? (being in NYC, I'm not trying to drag my frame rails exactly) Thanks in advance! Car looks amazing!
  15. Hey all - I've owned my 1976 Datsun 280z for about six months now, and after doing most of the restoration work myself, I've made the HORRIBLE mistake of taking my car to a local shade-tree mechanic to have my tank refreshed. Long story short, a piss-poor / bullshit job was done on my tank (tank wasn't boiled; likely wasn't coated), already fried one fuel pump, bogs constantly, and most recently stopped starting altogether. My battery is drained, because it seems as if my alternator is no longer cycling a charge back into the battery (ie. dead)! At one point, this con-artist of a mechanic claimed that my fuel delivery problem (post tank "refresh") was an electronic issue, and a key reason I think my battery and alternator are now dead (crossed wiring somewhere??) So, HybridZ - can anyone recommend a respectable Nissan / Datsun specialist in the New York City / Lower NY area that can suss out my car's issue and help put me back on the road. I'm located in Brooklyn, and the car WILL need to be towed (sadly). Let me know! Much appreciated!!
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