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BQR280Z

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Posts posted by BQR280Z

  1. Here's a shot of the Ford GT diffuser after I narrowed it for the Z. I will cut into the rear valance and set the horns up into the valance. Then carry the stripes through the diffuser. The leading edge will be above the lower edge of the rear control arms and the lower edge of the differential. I know not all the benefits of a true flat bottomed car, but I like it and I think it looks good.

     

     

    Bill

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  2. Hi Guys,

    I'm 54 years old and an old school hot rodder, love my Z, but need your help. I ran into a good buy on some 17" wheels and my son talked me into trying them on the car. They needed complete refinishing so I painted them the color of my stripes. The offset was massive 42mm so they are mounted with 2" hub-centric adapters, but I don't know, they look kind of scary to me. I love the openness of the wheels and the fact I can see my discs, but???

    Tell me your experience with adapters, I don't want the wheels to fall off while I'm pushing the Z through fun corners.

     

    Thanks for input,

    Bill

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  3. Terry you are right and if you look close the glass ones do follow the window lines. But I did it by cutting the original size not by adding material on the lower side. The effect is not quite as complete a following of the line. But I think once it is all painted one color it will be OK.

    Bill

  4. Need some input, tell me what you think, good/bad idea, might work, no way??? Has anyone else tried this??

     

    It is time for a repaint, some small bubbles, and a remake of my raised center hood in fiberglass. So I was looking at the side Z emblem vents, in stock form they act as air extractors, I was thinking of putting a small scoop over them to force air in - creating a high pressure area in th cabin. This would help keep exhaust fumes from entering the cabin.

     

    I found some scoops from a marine/boat supply house that are close. Here's some pix, I will use the purchased scoops as molds and make them out of fiberglass for final installation.

     

    Bill

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  5. The hood design was a form follows function thing. I am running a 4bbl with a 1" thermal spacer plus a .5" NOS spraybar spacer so I needed hood clearance. All the after market scoops or hoods put the extra clearance down the middle of the hood. I needed it offset for the carb. By cutting a stock hood I kept the basic Datsun lines intact and you are correct it flows massive amounts of air from under hood. There are some bubbles coming on the front edge so I will remake the hood in fiberglass.

     

    Bill

  6. This is the post from zcar.com:

    "Boucher Nissan/Windy City Z Club will be having a Z car show on Saturday, October 8th at the dealership in West Allis, Wisconsin. Times are from 9-3 and judging to begin at noon. No registration fee and will include T-shirts, lunch and trophies for 10 different catagories. Chicago cars will be caravaning up that morning so if interested contact Windy City Z Club thru their web site. Boucher's phone number is 414-543-1234."

     

    The directions I got from Boucher Nissan are:

    Hwy41/45 to Lincoln Exit, right at off ramp then first left on 102nd St. to Arthur Ave.

     

    Bill

  7. Guys,

    Post in the WTB sections of Z sites and you can find some excellent buys on Mallory's. I am currently running a Uni-lite I bought used for $75, and have two dual points Mallory's I bought for $50 each, just hunt they are out there. One of the dual points is supplying ignition power to my 1981 Kawasaki 1300, and works perfectly.

     

    I just added a Mallory Hy-fire VI multi-strike Cd box to the Uni-lite, incredible adjustability, dual rev limiter, hi-speed retard for the NOS, start retard for the big cam, and a programable RPM window for NOS flow. Also with a optional MAP sensor programable retard per pound of boost. The box was $239 from Summit.

     

    Bill

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  8. Guy,

    Listen to the advise you are being given, it's good stuff. If the old paint is sticking to the metal...it's a good bond and will work fine for the base under your new paint. Use a sealing primer and you are good to go. The bigger compressor and air DA are the standard fare for body work but recently I have changed over to electric DA's. I have a 6HP/60 gallon compressor but thought why run this thing just to sand, plus without a good drier system it's spitting water and oil all over your surface. There are lots of electric orbital sanders available for $35, you may have to change the sanding pad so you can use stik-it disks. If you need some help give me a yell, I'd like to see your project.

     

    Got my Z back on the road just in time for the Clintonville car show, took 1st in import class. Next week is New London.

     

    The new cam, and head are great. Added a Mallory HyFire VI ignition too.

    Bill

  9. Thought I would throw this out and see if fellow Z'ers could help. I just installed a new Mallory HyFire VI ignition and love it, incredible adjustability. For the dual stage rev limiter, I need to apply 12V to a circuit for launch RPM and need a switch that I can comfortably hold while in 1st gear. I have an old school Hurst T handle with a switch in the end but am not all that fond of the look. Any ideas or suggestions??? Maybe a lineloc switch but our Z's don't really have the right bend in the shifter for those to really right either. Thanks for your help.

    Bill

  10. I thought I would give my 2 cents worth. I recently palced two orders with MSA and must say I was happily impressed. I placed both orders on the internet so I didn't talk with anyone, so I couldn't be insulted. I recieved thank you emails and also a phone call to see if I would like to add a gasket I forgot about. Both orders were shipped promptly and were complete. Although I didn't get a new catalog.

    Bill

  11. I tore down the Z on Sunday and found my NOS damage. After the last NOS run last season, I figured I burned an exhaust valve (badly).

    Compression in #3 was 55, compared to 180 in the rest, and the hiss was all through the tailpipe. #3 exhaust valve is gone, a section about 3/8" wide and 1/4" deep is gone from the seat face. The seat in the head is hurt too.

    New head is almost ready, ported, new 290/495 cam, hi-po springs.

    Bill

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