Mikey

damn, that was what i was thinking... that there isnt enough timing to make any kind of power. ill throw a can of 110 in it and pull the timing up.. thanks

i have a knock sensor hooked up and its not reading anything. it knocked at 12 degrees initial, back it down to 8 and its fine. ive got 3psi at the carbs at WOT and the exhuast isnt plugged. ive got a full msa header, straight pipe to a magnaflow chambered muffler.

ok, i havent posted on here in a long time, so thanks for looking. with my Z, the motor just doesnt have as much power as it should. its got a f54 with flat tops and a mn47. one of the local guys figured its about 11.2:1 compression. so i will say it drives just fine under part throttle. 1/4 throttle driving it runs just fine. and at half throttle it moves real well. but anything past half throttle doesnt go any faster, just a quick as half throttle. Is this a carb turning issue? or a timing advance issue? im lost and im not sure what im doing wrong here. thanks in advance

wow thats a wicked build. really like the wheels

well at WOT it runs hard and just fine up till 4000ish rpm. and i checked the float height and travel on both carbs and its right where the manual says they need to be. Ive checked the jetting and they are what is recommended for a 240z. not for a 280z. Ill take a video later today, maybe it will help diagnosing this thing.

not quite finished, almost there though. motor is in, runs ( kinda) and drives. Now i just gotta get teh front lip re painted ( i ran it over at 80+ mph ) and re mounted..

so i finally got my Z to run well. off idle stumbles a little bit due to the cam and lack of vac but part throttle and cruise are great. off idle to 2000 rpm feels great, part throttle and wot. 2000-4000 part throttle and wot are good as well. but 4000+ part throttle is good but WOT feels heavy and is very sluggish. its hits a wall at 4500 and just stops reving. i have to back off the throttle to get better acceleration. so would that be a case of too rich or too lean? and since its a higher RPM range i need to change my air correction jets right? and for info, i have a l28/mn47 stage 3 msa cam, weber dgv's Thanks for the help

whoops i read it as fuel pressure... i have. i checked the jetting in the carbs and they are spot on. the way i set them is like so: screwed them out to high idle to my vac gauge then backed them in 1/4 turn

i think im just going to set it on fire and call it a day

still stuck...

ive got 3 lbs of fuel pressure at the T where it splits into both carbs id like to go back to SU's or tripples but money wont allow it since i just re built this motor.

can anyone help me with this one?

So i recently built another l28 for my Z after my last motor lost the head gasket ( thank you fresno 112 degree weather.) so my problem, my instinct tells me the carbs are too rich. they flood on idle super easy. if its sitting at idle for more than 2-3 mins i can see the primary throats lined with fuel and it starts to choke and will soon die. part throttle they run just fine but my eyes burn like hell and it smells of unburned fuel. under WOT it sounds like its drawing enough air but its sluggish and gutless. off idle to WOT it just pops up the carbs and spits fuel back up and out. so any help would be greatly appreciated. and to let you all know what ive done. im on dual weber DGV's i checked the main jets, idle jets, air correction jets, venturi's, everything and they are all what is reccomended from weber and other members on this site. this is what ive got so far http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e355/raceme54/240z/DSC02155.jpg

aww sheet! kragen has them down the street.. >.<

it was mentioned in another thread that the fittings were m10x1.25 i have not taken it off and tried. might be worth a try

yeah i very much so agree with that. and where did you find the m10x1.25 unions? i cant find them anywhere

Well ill start off i thought i had the worst case ever of shitty past owners but you guys got some bad ones too... so when i got it, shoe laces were holding everything including the battery in place, the alternator lead wire was just twisted together and bare... and every last bit of wiring was just terrible. the gold speaker wire you can see is the wire for the fuel pump and i thought that was bad, then i found the lug nuts were standard, forced onto the studs. the rear struts were WELDED to the strut towers. they cut the cables to the footwell vents, welded the radiator to the core support. it was just a messy hell. lucky today its got a lot more love...

THATS IT!!! i gutted the valve on teh firewall as pictured. no wonder it wont work for ♥♥♥♥. yeah i know the valve in the front should be left alone... well now i feel dumb.. after i patch the two lines together should it all work properly?

anyone else have any ideas?

well i know there just generic semi metalic pads IIRC "prostop" brand. and i put my prop valve very similar to this setup http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f380/rontyler/Pro1.jpg but i used the line out of the splitter like this http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11342&d=1231570198 I guess ill just take a picture later when im home.

as long as the spacer you get is hub centric and the studs are long enough, a 1 inch spacer would make them fit ok.

Ok let me start off with thanks for all the replies... thats what i was thinking but there wasnt any problem before this. right, its just limiting the pressure. im using a new oem master cyl. valve is brand new. re bled the master cyl and the brakes. no i do not. i "gutted" it by instruction of a local grassroots racer. no its in the rear section. modern motorsports caliper adapter. it might be 300zx rotors. its been a while. front rotors are drilled/slotted. pads are standard semi metalic pepe boys pads. i did not remove the prop valve in the back of the car. only the one on the firewall was "gutted" Thanks again for the help.

So on my 73 Z, ive got a msa stage 2 front brake setup ( toyota truck binders, large spaced rotor, stainless steel lines) and in the rear ive got 240sx calipers and 280zx rotors. now it was too rear biased when i put the 240sx rears on and i got myself a wilwood bias valve. i installed it and went to tune it and with the knob half way in teh rear brakes were locked like i had the parking brake on. so i dialed it all the way out and its almost right but its still too rear biased, when the tires lock the rears lock up first? any idea on why this is still too rear biased or a solution to my problems? Thanks in advance

i cant wait to see progress. best build imo. but thats cuz im a sho owner and a z owner. mad props to you dude

ok well its a 73 240z. here is something that might help find my problem. sometimes when im driving the interior lights go off. and the other night the bad ground went away, it all was ok. then seconds later it came back. i checked all my grounds, ground wire from the batt to the engine. ground from the harness to the alternator, ground on my ignition box. where is the major grounds on the 73's? ill take apart my headlight switch and hope i can find something