logr

I have 17" wheels(245/40/17 tires) and with my car lowered to 5" under the front crossmember (I think that is 6.5" at the rocker) the front control arm is almost flat. I would like a bit of camber gain under bump and I already have the thickest bumpsteer spacers I could find(30mm). It is illegal to move the inner lca pivot in SSM so the only way I can think of to get some camber gain and closer to normal roll center is to add another thinner spacer. I'm thinking 1.75-2.0 inches total spacer as I think I have that much room. The toe end would probably be the limiting factor for hitting the wheel. Is it a good idea? Is there another idea?

Why not just change to a short nose R200? There are plenty of ratios available then. 3.5, 3.7, 3.9, 4.08, 4.3 to name a few. Use a Giken and the long nose stub shafts go right in. I have a 3.9 long nose that I might part with because I just put a short nose 4.08 in my 240Z and reused the Giken from the long nose in the short nose. I bought the front mount bracket that is available on Hybrid Z but will probably redo it to a mount with the same design but mounts to the other side of the diff.

If you get an open long nose R200 you can use any lsd designed for a 240sx open diff. The open long nose stubs will go right into the sx lsd. It is one fairly reasonable option.

I'm in the process of changing to a short nose diff. I need it for the ABS sensor as well as I would prefer the 4.08 ratio of a stock 240SX. There are some issues but nothing that can't be fixed. All R200 short noses use the same pinion even though the ABS version has a longer housing. The input flange is longer, for the tone ring, and where the length comes from. S13 R200 housings are solid mounted to their S13 subframes.(The subframe is rubber mounted instead.) If you want the short nose to be rubber mounted using the available front diff mount. (The one from BURLEIGH.) An S14(4.08) and J30(3.9) both use the rubber inserts in the front of the diff which will bolt to the available mount from BURLEIGH. I am using a J30 diff (for the rubber inserts and the ABS) but want the 4.08 ratio. I am therefore swapping the diff guts between a J30 and a regular S13 R200. J30 and R200 long noses both have the thick spacer on the passenger side while the S13/14 have it on the drivers side. This is important because the long stub axle goes on the side with the thick spacer inside the diff. This means that putting in the short nose is going to require swapping the stub axles to the other side of the car. I am using 300zx turbo CV's with CF axles so I will be swapping sides with the stub axles only(removing the inner cv and putting it on the other side of the car) The difference is in the thickness of the ring gears. The J30 and the long nose R200 of a Z both have ring gears that are thicker than short nose diffs. This is why the thick spacer changes sides inside the diff. I am using an OS Giken LSD which uses the open stubs and why this should all work. ******I can't find anything on this stuff but if I am just wasting space please tell me so I can finish this without all the typing.******

Ken, Just redrill the 240z stubs you are using now for 5 lug. You know you are going to break those and wish you had gone to 280z ones instead. Didn't I send you a spare 240z one? I think I found the other one too.

Ken, if you are going to change wheels, why not go to 5 lug? Early 300Z hubs and redrill the rears can do the job. I have 15X10 wheels for 5 lug you can have very cheap but they are Diamond also.

Ken, Are you sure the inside ring on the wheel is on the same plane as the outside one? The older Diamonds that I have are not. I wonder if the inside ring is used more for centering than as a mating surface.

Changing the pivot point of the inner arm makes it illegal for SSM use. Don't know how important that is but it would cut down the customer base. edit; I guess in this instance by using the original attachment point, it might be legal anyway.

Dang it something was tight somewhere. I ordered B4-B30-U232A1 gland nuts and they worked in my 280Z tubes. Anyway that is what the invoice says. 22.50 a piece in 2012. Look here for more info or possibly confusion.http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69623-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/page-13 Can someone corroborate if that is the right nut for a 280? I don't know how it could be wrong since I have 280 tubes front and rear but I don't want to lead anyone astray.

Remember the nut is different if you are using 280z tubes which is what I did for the strength and the shocks go in easier too. They can be a tight fit in the 240 tubes.

It was me. I think I can find the number of the correct gland nut but they were expensive. It might be on the strut fact thread. I used a 1ton lug nut from my old International but a Chevy one should work. It is much taller than a regular lug nut and has a large concave surface on one side which fits the strut nicely. Pretty sure you want the Sports.

I bought the MSA f/g ones and they fit pretty good. I think they will look nice with a bit of finish work and some black paint. My car is green/black so........

It was a quick thought but after reading some of the threads mentioned on here, I see it was thought of a long time ago. I agree the inner pivots have to be on the same plane.

I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel. I am building for a class and to keep the car drivable on the street, which is pretty much mutually exclusive if I am real serious. I'm not. The ball joint could be on either end of the spindle so I think I will try to make something along these lines. I can't change the inner pivot point for SSM and I have cv's as well as 12.25" rotors, Superlights, and Bilsteins that I like. My diff is also what I need for ABS, so... My rear toe is excessive (.25" not sure why) and since I need to fix that, I'm just hoping to make a better mousetrap along the way. RCVD?

I have an idea. What about using an adjustable length ball joint on the spindle? I think there is a way to make the arm adjustable in and out as well as adjusting toe separately. Mounting a tapered hole for the bj on the spindle is easy enough and the bj is made for the application. I drew up a quick diagram but I can't upload a pdf to photobucket and the jpeg doens't show all of the pic but here is what I have. What do you guys think? The upper left is the ball joint and there would be rod ends at the ends of the other arrows. The bj would hold the main loads and the rod ends would all be working the proper direction. Roll center could be changed on the bj. Toe and in and out of the spindle is adjustable on the car also.