logr

Down to wiring, exhaust and throttle cable. By angling the radiator, I was able to use a Z top hose and an SR lower. The bottom of the radiator is just behind the sway bar with enough room to enlarge the bar. I will make a plate for the top of the intercooler to seal the air going to the radiator. Doing things this way ended up with 2 straight pipes for the intercooler. The other one could have been a straight piece, a 45 silicone and a 45 metal. Iam somewhat hesitant about the air cleaner being in front though. It seems that rain could be a problem. Any ideas? I am thinking of making a front cover for it to keep the rain from hitting it full force.

Drop your timing back a couple of degrees and set your idle when hot. Crappy fuel.

It's not that hard. Bolt the L28 mounts to the KA and place the engine where you want it. Use some flat stock on the bottom of the engine mount for the crossmember to mate too. Use some angle on the frame rails and bend some tubing up close to the mounts. Make it fit and weld it. It does take a lot of time to fit things and make them look right. OR Buy the Vildini or Modern ones, much easier and very reasonable for the amount of time it took to build mine.

I did that a bit to clear the SR (to give clearance room for the turbo outlet) but building the cradle for the engine is the easiest way to support the engine IMO. I used the L28 mounts turned upside down. SR/KA mounts hit the steering shaft. I modified the trans mount to move it about an inch. The shifter is well into the original hole. I ended up tilting the Z radiator and moving it backwards about 16in(guessing, bottom is behind the sway bar). I then put the intercooler a bit behind where the radiator originally was. I could use the Z upper radiator hose and the SR lower hose. The intercooler only needed straight pipe on the turbo inlet and outlet. Put the filter in front of everything. One weld on the intercooler to throttle body pipe and it was done. Filled up the large hole left by taking out the 2 unneeded cyls.

My loaded 240sx hatch weighs 2800. My base 240sx coupe weighs 2480. Both have SR's. My 240Z L28 weighed 2320 with a half a tank. 240Z with an SR is still to be determined. These were all weighed on the same truck scales so they may not be perfect but they always weighed the same.

Build something along this line. The frame rails are thin so a cradle is best IMO. Oh yea, be sure to add a turbo. Here is a wiring how to. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=549

I guess I have never seen an external wastegate on a stock T25 since they come with an internal one. Anyway thanks for the weight. I will weigh my car when done and I have the before weight but it is also not definitive, afterall, the scales vary too.

My scales were obviously not very accurate. Weight seems to be a pretty disputable thing though and very dependent on acc. The engine you show has a larger turbo and external waste gate as well as a clutch. The first L24 has no clutch. In that thread it shows another L28 with trans at 539. I personally don't really worry about the weight. I believe the SR, installed, is lighter, better ballanced, more durable, more efficient and more powerful than the L28 it replaced. As far as comparing it to the L28 after being moved 6 inches. Wouldn't you have to cut the firewall to do that? The SR is shorter so it ends up further back when the shifter is in the right spot. It just seems like a nice swap to me. I'm not quite sure why people object to a four banger in this light a car, seems made for it to me.

LSD is in, fuel system is done, engine is in, rad is in, intercooler is mounted, wiring is still to come. I was able to use the stock Z oil sending unit and hope the SR temp sending unit will work. Used stock fuel sender. Hoping to use all the stock guages except tach. We will see if I make it to the winter heat but I'm trying.

Ken, look in the fuel delivery section on what I did to the fuel system. I hope to bring it down to the winter heat.

Is anybody interested in a complete build how to, while I am doing this. I have run into things that have not been mentioned and there aren't any builds, with an SR,that I could find. I looked in the build section but haven't been able to find things before, so may have just missed them. logr

I remember. See you again at the races. Nice Z.

Filtered is always the fuel feed. Vent doesn't go to the carb or fuel rail.

Here is what I ended up for the SR front mount. Here is the SR installed.

I didn't want to run a new fuel return line so I bent the vent line over to the passenger side and used it and the original 3/16 fuel return line as my return. A barb T did the trick quite unobtrusively. I used a 240SX fuel filter mount to hold things firmly. I ran the returns to the original tank fittings, used the new pump outlet for the fuel feed and the return on the top of the new pump as another vent. I then ran the original vent hose from the burp tank to to a 240SX tank valve that bolts on in front of the tank and then to a small filter. Simple, neat and no line on the bottom of the car. Still need to do some rust repair.

Yes, air flow meter. It is that or the fuel system IMO.

Sorry, yes everything is from a junked 1990 240SX. Take the tank out. Use caution and cut out the mounting ring and sump-- well you get the picture. I have a few of the 240SX's laying around but there are usually a few in a pull and save type yard for cheap. It is just a simple, clean way to have an internal sump and great pump mount for cheap. I used a wire feed welder with .030 wire but tig would be better. I don't have a picture of the Z tank with the hole cut in the top because I had no intention of posting pictures. Just cut it where you can see mine is welded in and you will be fine. I never know if people are interested or not and tend to not share due to this.

Here is what the pump, mount and sump look like. This is the new walbro for an sx. Guess you can see the tank also. Here is a picture of the sump installed looking down from the top. Here is the finished product ready for install after painting.

Mass Air. I have had them start running lean for no apparent reason. ECU tells it to be rich when cold so it covers up the problem. There aren't many things to look for. I would start with the mass air, fuel pump and TPS.

I have a digital camera. I have a computer. Now if I just knew how to post the pictures. I will take some pictures and see if I can figure it out. It is a simple easy fix that took me an afternoon and very sanitary.

I have been struggling with the surge tank idea but really don't like the idea of twice as many pumps not to mention where to hang all that stuff and all of the fittings that could leak. I found an alternative that is free and works great. I took an SX tank out, rinsed it and filled it with water, cut an inch away from the pump mounting ring and then drilled 4 holes through the sump on the spot welds. I now had everything that I needed to fix the Z. The Z tank is an inch taller but I lowered the mounting spot which is on the highest and furthest forward part of the Z tank. I then fitted the sump in the sweet spot, bent the guage lever over a bit and welded in the sump. Everything worked great. I fitted the mounting ring onto the top where I had cut the hole and welded it on. I now have a sump, 255 Walbro and 5/16 lines to hook to whatever engine I choose, in my case an SR. I wonder if the SX guage lever would work in the Z. All I need to do now is run one more line or use the vent pipe for the return. It is only 1/16 smaller than stock SR. Not sure on that one. I pointed the hose outlets right above the stock 240Z ones and have great clearance. I may cut a hole in the floor above the pump and mount the SX cover over it for pump access but it doesn't seem neccessary.

It is in and fits well by moving it forward just a bit and gaining clearance on the crossmember. I now have about 2 inches to the firewall from the turbo outlet. The shifter is well into the original hole. I cut the trans crossmember on both sides of the mount and put a flat bar in the cut to move it back just a bit and welded it all together. Works and looks great. I used all L24 mounts. The fronts are in upside down to bolt onto the SR with one bolt. The Z driveline slips into the SR trans, a plus I didn't expect. I weighed the SR and trans at 320. New crossmember is 9 lbs. No intercooler yet but that might add 20lbs total. The L28 maxed out my scales. I need to split the trans off and retry but my hoist groans when I lift it.

My mistake, this R160 is an AP Suretrac. It works like a helical, I guess. We shall see. Anybody have any knowledge on these? It is a bolt in though (with 2 grooves cut in the axles) and it is an unabtrusive lsd, I am told.

I recieved it today and it is a 4.11 R160. It appears to work. R180 axles slip right in. The seller kept the suby axles for some unknown reason. I will need another snapring and machine 2 grooves in the axles but see no reason why this won't work. I did have to change the input but an older R160 one worked fine. Both Z axles slip in and bottom out inside before hitting the case and stick out approximately the same. There might even be room for the bolt buttons, it looks like it. I don't really want to take apart the helical to find out. There is a question though on the helical itself. It is very difficult to turn the axles different directions and it feels rough. My other helical is smooth as butter and turns easily, so I am a bit concerned. Mike

I don't even know what a GC8 is. The guy seems to know what he's talking about but he didn't know what year it was from. I bought an R200 helical from him before. He is duax machine. He says that he has put them in 510's before so I hope he is right. I am putting in an SR also. He wondered if it was strong enough for an L28. Guess I will see. I haven't found anything on here about the newer R160's. I wanted a helical and haven't been able to find a clsd anyway. This R160 is a 4.11 so that was fortunate also. With the 275's that I am planning on running, I can get around 68mph in 2nd which I think will be about right--------I hope.