logr

Cutting lowering springs is not a good idea since that would take away the little bit of shock travel there still is. Lowering it from the top is the best idea. A 240Z isolator will lower it about an inch but it seems that it would be possible to modify a stock top hat to work with camber plates. Anybody done this? Your tires are so far away from the springs that the spring perch could be lowered but not without sectioning the tubes which would mean shorter struts or you will be back to riding on the bump stops.

Warp drive engagement transluctor.

I don't like the price but it sure is interesting. I am very intrigued but would like to hear from more people that have used it. Their website has a place for testimonials but there is only one. Would it react fast enough for autox use?

It would be better to see what is so tight. The name of the part is "SLIP yoke" after all. You might pull the seal and see if it is still tight. A slip yoke that doesn't slip is not good.

I did this install about a month ago with an r200. 1st; I ground the center poly down(ground the top of the diff a bit too) to allow the es to mount flat on the diff(no metal exposed). That allowed the diff to be mounted close to the original position. 2nd; I drilled the rt mount to allow all 3 bolts to be utilized. 3rd. I welded a tab to the rear/bottom of the original cross/member and mounted a single bolt es bumpstop to it. I ground off the bumpstop until it pushes up on the diff a small amount. This may be overkill but it also doesn't hurt anything. There is no clunk from the diff.

It's too late to give up now. I applaud your tenacity. It will be pretty cool in the end and you can say "I built it." with pride.

I used the stock SR sending unit(same as KA) with the stock 240Z gauge and it works great. It is in the middle when it should be. I have had aftermarket gauges not work all that great. Hook up the stock one and be happy. Oil pressure needs the Z sending unit. Tach needs a fake coil signal and a 280Z tach since it is adjustable. Get the right gear off a pickup for the speedometer and reclock it for correct gear contact(match trans original location). I have all the original gauges and nobody knows it's a monster until I hit the go pedal, except for the big brakes and 17's.

Either one will work, SR or stock Z.

I just had one of each apart last week. The heads were not the same size.

Just because it's a new clutch is no reason to rule it out. Would like to hear the solution. My guess is the clutch but Phantom is right, if the trans is in neutral but not in neutral, you have more issues.

42.308 My best time ever. http://www.setgame.com/you_completed_todays_puzzle?time=42308 Yesterday it took me over 4 minutes. That dang 6th one is always the stumper. Not sure if the link will work but thought I would try. I do it most every day and my granddaughter still clobbers me when we play with the cards.

If memory serves, those struts are shorter than stock struts so you could be compressed even more than the 2 inches. Since springs are rated by the distance compressed and you just compressed them, seems they would be stiffer. I would consider lowering the perch if you have room, if not, go to shorter springs by whatever method. Considering the travel that a stock strut/spring has, I would really doubt you could coil bind a stock one on a shortened strut. I happen to know of a chump car Z that has some prelude springs on it.

Nice swap thread. A friend had an F20 in an AE86. I drove it a few times at autox. Good thing the Z has more engine bay as it was a tight fit in the toy. I liked the engine but the power builds rather than hitting hard and I am a turbo guy now a days so I'm betting the turbo will be sooner rather than later. I was surprised on not losing more weight when I put the SR in my Z. It did however end up with 52% on the back tires(with me in it) which is a good thing. Keep us informed please.

WOW, Big job. Not done yet but on the home stretch. I do love the detail and pics. Thanks

I have looked at this thread in the past and completely missed the part where an S13 lsd will work in the long nose R200. If no one minds, delete me if you feel the need but I made a thread because I didn't see/comprehend the info here. Any aftermarket S13 lsd made for an S13 open diff will fit into a long nose R200 and work with the stock 280Z stub shafts as well as the Z31T axles. Does anyone see a problem with that statement or is it unnecessary?

I knew who you meant without the initials. Heck, I had to tell him not to bring his car back to our event if he didn't fix the oil leak and then he is talking about mod cars. This is the guy that mounted the calipers on upside down and couldn't figure out why the air wouldn't come out with the bleeder screws on the bottom. At least he quit trying to drive a mod car, now he just talks about them. I sure suspect the wheel not bolting flat. I know the history on my hubs. They came off a Z car. I will check where the flares came from but I don't really need one. I put extra wide ones on the front of that last sx and have these left from the set.

What about 300zx hubs Ken. I know they bolt on but don't remember if they made them in 4 lug, thinking they did but not sure. I have the five lug ones on my Z. The offset is not that different and with your flares.......... I have one here(5 lug) and I have 2 extra flares as well as a Z hub if you do end up needing it. Is Ricky coming up this weekend? I can load up his trunk.

I have an 1989 3.9 R200 long nose. I need a good reliable LSD and I want CV's if possible. I bought an OS Giken NS046-HA LSD for a short nose R200. It is for a 1991 240SX open diff. I have used this diff numerous times in SX cars up to 450whp with good results so I wanted to see if it would go in a long nose. I put on new carrier bearings and used the original shims in the same locations. The ring gear bolts are smaller than the holes in the LSD but it is hubcentric so I just bolted it on. I have done this on SX diffs numerous times with no issues. There are spacers available if this worries you. The backlash and preload were within specs. First thing I noticed was the thick spacer is on opposite sides in the 2 diffs. This had me worried since the stub shafts are interchangeable between the 3 (280Z, 240SX, Z31ZXT). I tried these stub shafts in all 3 diffs. The groove is slightly wider on the SX stubs so I widened the groove on the Z31 shafts. They worked and locked in either way but the Z31's were very hard to get back out and a wider groove with slightly rounded edges matched the SX grooves better. I bought the Z31 axle shafts and flanges from Checkered Flag Joe. They are very beefy. It was no big deal to change shafts. Pull the c clip on the outboard end. Knock the inboard end off by hitting on the race. Change shafts and put it back together. The flanges are much heavier than stock and a tighter fit on the stock 280Z stub axles but went on with minimum fuss. The Giken's are very good and tunable diffs. They drive like stock, with no chattering, on the street but hook up great. They have 20 or so discs. Actually the steels and clutches are all steels but it works. I use Redline NS oil in them for the first 300 miles and then change to Giken fluid. It is very spendy. I couldn't find if this would work or not so thought I would share my experience. It works. Be sure to use an aftermarket LSD for an open diff SX and any one should work in a log nose R200 with either Z stubs or Z31 axles.

Today, Friday 5/16/14 took me 1.30 for comparison. I usually do it under 2 and occasionally under 1 or over 4. The sixth one is the hard one for me. My wife has gotten used to hearing "They messed up today." meaning there isn't a sixth one there. It is good exercise to keep from loosing any more brain cells than necessary.

This is a card game but it can be played online and alone or with a group. Kids can kick your a$$ at it. My 8 year old granddaughter whipped up on a bunch of engineers and puter geeks, at a bbq, until they were fit to be tied. The actual cards are the best but here is an online version. It has won lots of awards but the fact that it takes 5 minutes or less to learn how to play and there are no age biases has me hooked. There are 3 colors, 3 shadings and 3 shapes. The object of the game is to make a set. A set is 3 cards where everything is the same or everything different(no 2's of anything). Simple but hard as hell. http://www.setgame.com/set/daily_puzzle

5/16 is the stock size, for feed and return, or the metric equivalent. I have used that size for 750 injectors with no issues. 450ish hp

This sure is a large and cool undertaking. Good job.

You want to change to 5 lug but the majority of the 5 lug wheels offered are made for fwd offset so why worry about the z31 change? I went Z31 and JSK hats and love it. Checkered flag Joe offers the rear axles with 5 lug if you don't want to redrill. I am mainly thinking of larger diameter wheels but you will need that with most brake upgrades. Don't know about the Silvermine stuff. Personally I like the reliability of oem hubs and the functionality of large diameter rotors with 4 piston Superlights all the way around. Not sure if anyone makes the JSK stuff anymore but they come up for sale occasionally. It seems that someone should start making them again as they are a great option. The AZ stuff is an adapter that bolts to the stock axle in the rear which adds lots of offset. The front is an aluminum hub which has the hat bolted to it. I wonder if the offset is made to match the rears, don't know. Looking at the AZ rear, the rear adapter looks to be out an inch or so. My JSK hat is flush with the stock axle center. It would be possible to use hub centric spacers with the JSK stuff. I have 8.5 x 17 +30 RPF1's all the way around with no spacer in the front and a 5mm in the rear to clear the strut. I know I didn't really answer your question but thought some options and opinions of someone that has been right where you are might help.

I'm interested in what you have to say.

Another question might be, Where am I going with the build? I have just under 300 whp and wtq. I had a Suby r160 from a rally car. It was some sort of helical but not the regular version. Last weekend I broke the stub shaft coming out of the diff(stock 240Z). While fixing that I saw the carrier inside was cracked too. What to do? An old STI diff is cheapest but we all know an STI is made for racing, so it hasn't had an easy life for the first 10 years before we get it, and they have 4 wheel drive. What if we want to go cv's in the future. The options for this diff use extra adapters on both ends(seems like that would put extra force on the stubs) and are known to have issues with keeping bolts tight. LSD's are another issue entirely if you go with an R200. No real answers from goggling but lots of wrong information. I have been searching for the answer to "Will a short nose lsd work in a long nose and then what about axles?". I see lots of info on shortening and regrooving and it might work but no definitive answers, from what I found. I personally tried a long nose R200 open diff with short nose open diff axles.They go in and the keeper groove is perfect. I also tried Z31 axles just to make sure and they work perfectly too. I can see no reason that any short nose lsd made for the short nose open diff(240SX) won't work perfectly with 280Z stubs or Z31 axles. I ordered an OS Giken yesterday, the 046 one. I have put these in numerous cars and they are great. I also ordered the flanges and axles from Checkered Flag Joe. I have the Z31 axles. The r160 held up until I went to 245/40/17 Z2's and a sticky track. Hit 2nd a bit hard at 13# and it was all over. I only use it for daily driver fun, an occasional track day and autox, mostly autox. I would like a 4.11 but not sure if any came in r200 longs. I found one place that said 85-88 200SX's came with a 4.11 R200 long but have not been able to verify. Anybody know? I am going with a 3.9 for now. Hope this helps. I should have mine done in with in a week or so. A vlsd only partly hooks up and on hard corners with reasonable power, they can spin an inside tire easily. A helical does the same if you take enough weight off it.