logr

Sorry Mike, not much else to say. Most dog lovers have been through it and it sucks. I have a story but now doesn't feel right.

I run 245/40/17's A6's on 9's all the way around so it is possible with the right offset and some camber. My set up is not stock so you would have to find the right offset for your set up. -3 camber front, -2 rear The rear is harder than the front.

I see no reason it can't be done. PDM racing has a system called race-logic, if I remember right. I have raced against the owner and he used it on his SX. If you could figure out front hubs, you could have abs as well. I didn't know Z31 had the rings. I have seen it on many Z32's though.

I finally weighed mine properly. 73 240Z SR T28 stock manifold, aluminum circle track radiator, 1/4 tank fuel, full stock type interior, Wilwood Superlites on all corners, 8.5x17 RPF1, 235/40/17 R1R's, no cage 2286# without me, 50.1% rear with me(200#), cross weight 49.7% with me, could have gotten this better but the sways were hooked up and ran out of time.

This is for all you people(like me) that want the inside to look stock so your opponents won't know something is not quite right until you give them a hard lesson on picking on smaller/older cars. Thought I would mention this will work exactly the same for a KADE. I would guess it will work for a KAE but the tach signals are different so I really have no idea. Then again why would anyone put in a KA single cam when they could have twice as many? 2.....2.....2 cams in one. Sing it to the Doublemint ad song, the one where they had all the cute twins. Dang, how long has it been since they ran that ad. Sorry, age showing.

It is in the strut tube or possibly the spindle but I don't know which side is bad(all the other things are new and checked). I'm guessing the one with more camber is the bent one since over 2* stock seems like a lot.

OK, now it shows 48 views so someone is looking anyway.

No views, no answers, no help. Does this really not interest anyone? The front camber is totally different from side to side but how do I know which side is right? Is mine the only car in the universe to have this issue?

They bolt into 2 original holes.

The car is a 73 240z with 240z struts.I lowered my car and put Bilsteins in shortened struts. The problem is that, in the front, I have -2.5* camber on the left and -.25* camber on the right. The left tire is much closer to the strut than the right. I have all stock suspension components otherwise. I would think a strut tube is bent but which one? My wheels are no help since they are 8.5x17 on Z31 hubs. I guess the question is does a lowered z have a bunch of camber or almost none? Also is it OK to heat up the tube near the bottom and bend it or do I replace the tube?

Do they use 2 original holes for mounting? Will they work with Bilsteins?

Thanks. SM cars must use the original mounting holes. Am I right in assuming I would drill new holes to use those?

I don't know what a bisquit style is. Can you enlighten me? I tried bing but no avail. A pic would be nice.

I will do that but am seriously considering making the lower control arms adjustable and using the poly ones on top, to possibly keep the car a bit more reasonable for a driver. Are the solid ones much nosier and rougher?

What do you mean "DP camber plates". I have looked at Betamotorsports and they have no camber plates listed. Are there any bolt in plates available as that is all that is SM legal? I see the ones that are non adjustable from Motorsport but nothing else bolt in.

All it took was one trip around the track with my SR and I knew I wanted/needed better brakes. 12.2 rotors and Superlites all around and I finally have a car that has enough brakes. FWIW, I left the stock proportioning valve and added the new one after the m/c but before the stock valve(Z31 m/c). The adjustment ended up in the middle of it's range. I did it as much for the 5 lug as anything which I am very happy with. It is hard to argue with RPF1's.

Where is your sensor? If you read it in the outlet neck, it will be hotter as that is before it is cooled back down by the radiator. I have one there and the stock one too. The neck one sees 220 fairly easily but the stock one stays in the middle.

They are all over but don't count on not doing anything to it. Pretty much every one needs a valve job at the least but thats just an excuse to put in a steel headgasket.

Just for general knowledge, I have 3 walbro's, none very quiet even though they are all "in tank" pumps. One was especially loud so I changed it to a Deutchworks(sp). That pump is so quiet I had to put my ear on the tank to hear it working. The walbro was not the problem so the pump worked fine even though it was noisy. I had a bad fpr.

Hey, maybe we can all get together for an autox with SSSCC. I haven't been there for a while but am due to come reunite with old racing buddies. I will buy the first cool beverages after the race.

Here is what mine looks like with 17x8.5 RPF1's, 25/40/17 R1R's, Wilwood Superlites, JSK hats and 12.2" rotors. It is a work in progress.

I just replaced my stock brakes, steel wheels and 225/45/15 R1R's. The total swap was a wash in the weight department. The new front brakes were a bit lighter but the rear were a bit heavier. In the end, the Wilwood, JSK set up weighed a total of 0.5 lbs more but the 8.5 RPF1's and 235/40/17's were 0.5 lbs lighter. Of course 1.25 x 12.2 fronts and .810 x 12.2 rear rotors with 4 piston Superlites all the way around might be a bit of an upgrade versus the original stock set up. I am looking forward to trying the new set up. My total weight is 2300# on a truck scale with the SR. 52% rear with me in it and a full stock interior right down to the seats and gauges, which all work great with the SR.

The RS3's are a reasonable street tire that will take the heat of a track day. I run R1R's because they don't need heat to work for autox but they overheat at track days and turn to gu. I have been running 245/45/15's but am in the process of putting 17x8.5 all the way around right now. Fronts are easy but the room under the stock rear fender is touchy so I went with 235/45/17. 1 tenth difference in tread width but 4 tenths less section and height. The JSK front hats fit great. Putting Superlites all the way around. Should be done tomorrow.

I put an in tank Walbro in my 240Z. Cut the top off an SX tank, the part that holds the pump, and welded it into a Z tank. I also installed the sx in tank sump while at it. It worked great for a couple of years but lately it seems a bit noisy and I am getting some hesitation during hard acceleration. I pulled it out and the screen is very dirty but haven't replaced it yet. I cleaned it but it still looked funky. I have plenty of voltage at the pump. I cut a hole in the floorboard and made a cover so I can replace it easily. I will let you know how it works but some people are not fond of the Wolbro's. I believe Deutchworks makes one also.

There is no definitive answer. It depends on where you mounted the engine and trans. Measure it 14 times and build it. I mounted mine far enough forward to not remove the hood latch but I don't think that is the most common way. You can remove the cover/shield on the back of the sr trany for possibly more insertion into the trany. Nothing moves much between the trany and the diff so get it close and you will be good to go. The angle between them is much more important. Make them as equal and opposite as possible or it will make noise.