logr

Does anyone know about the newer r160's with a helical. I ordered one that is out of a GC8 WRX. The guy says it will work in a 510 so I can't see why it wouldn't work in a z. I have a friend with an older clutch type r160 behind an L28T that has held up well. According to the seller it is just a matter of machining a groove in my axles and slipping them in. I doubt it is really that easy and it isn't here yet but wondered if others have any experience with the newer ones. Thanks, Mike

I'm in the middle of this SR swap and I don't see enough clearance between the turbo outlet and the firewall. The shifter is also barely in the original hole and the SR mount will not clear the steering shaft. I have read where the original crossmember just clears the pan. I am not having that luck. It is a 240Z. It looks like the L28 mounts, on the SR, might clear the steering but I need some room for the turbo outlet without cooking the firewall. There are also some brake splitters or sensors right there where cooking looks very promising. What am I missing? I removed the front crossmember and sectioned it to move the steering rack mount part forward 1/2 in. I also removed the back part of it to give another 1/2 in clearance for the oil pan. This now gives me room to not cook the firewall (hopefully) and puts the shifter in a great location. By moving the engine forward, the trans mount is more likely to be pushing straight down on the rear crossmember instead of have a bad leverage on the tunnel mounts. I would have preferred to have the engine back more but don't see how it is possible. Seems like the pan should not be below the crossmember or the pan would be the first thing to hit anything. Any comments are welcome. I am starting on the actual mounts now.

Pm'd

I'm curious. How do you stop the KAET lash adjusters(can't really call them lifters) from rattling like crazy every time you rev it at all? Mine ran ok but the rattling drove me crazy and once I had an SR, I never looked back.

Don't know why I couldn't find it when I was looking for it before but a sticky would be nice as there is a new thread asking about it now. Thanks, Jon

Remember that just because the centers will go in, it doesn't mean the axles will work. Open diff short noses use shorter shafts and they are 3 groups of 2 or 5 bolt axles. Not much help on a Z. Are long nose R200 open shafts shorter? Don't know yet. If they are the longer type then an lsd would be easy, so I doubt it. I know more about SX's than Z's but I'm learning.

Just says R32 on it. That's all I know. I can recheck my helical soon and see what it is for sure.

I just built a 4.3 CLSD in an ABS Q45 housing. What I found. 240SX R200 has a smaller pinnion bearing. R32 and Q45 have the same bearing. Bearings can be put on any pinion. R32= 29 spline (says R32 on it and it was a CLSD and 4.3) 240SX= 29 spline but shorter shafts (out of my open diff car) Q45= 30 spline larger shafts This goes against the 30 spline R32 in first post. Don't know why or if they are all 29 but mine is.

I'm confused. I have an R200 S15 gear type LSD in a 240sx. I autox it. When I am powering out of a turn, does it provide drive to both tires at an equal force but different speeds or not? That is what I thought was the advantage to a HLSD. I am starting on a 240Z and am trying to decide on a LSD for it right now. Viscous type provide only up to 25% lockup from what I understand so would be the easiest to drive but would also provide the least lockup.

I'm trying to find it. I bought it off e-bay by searching S-15 helical.

That is what they sold it as.

I will be looking at a diff swap in just a few weeks but I have a 240sx with an S15 helical. The thing is, the output shafts from usa 240sx will slip into the helical but they still won't work. If I remember right, when I installed the helical, it was a depth thing. So if you get a helical, get the right output shafts with it. They cost as much as the helical. I am thinking of using a R34 diff for the 4.30 gearing and using another S15 helical. I have a 4.60 in my sx and it is a bit too short for autox with 23 in tall tires. I run 275/35/15 Hoosiers. I want the same tires on my z but just a bit higher gear to reduce shifting. I am installing an SR in the z. By the way if anyone is going to try putting the 4.6 in, it is a royal pain.

Didn't you want the wiring instructions? http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=549

The engine sets behind the stock crossmember with, at most, a notch out of it. You then build your motor mounts or cradle(my preferred, do to strength) where the mounts are. This stuff is very time consuming.

This forum, Hard to find under "SR20DET Mount Pictures". http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121991

I didn't find the 200lb thing but I did find something else interesting. Moving 240Z,260Z,280Z AND 280ZX Turbo to the same line for BSP. I believe that means a 240Z turbo would be legal for BSP. What is weird to me is how they keep Z's in BSP and put a 480hp 4 wheel drive(GTR) in ASP. Can a 38 year old car compete with the newest and hottest there is?

The 200lbs less thing. Is that a done deal or still in the works? SM2 only? Where can I see this?

Split the engine and tranny. 2 loggers can pick up the engine and walk away with it.

That threaded rod idea is pretty cool. Make sure the bottom of the oil pan is level, not the top of the engine. They sit tilted over some. It looks to me like the trans mount will be the hardest. I'm waiting for winter to start and to make sure what car to put the sr in. I have the 73Z and it runs great already. I also have a Triumph GT6 that weighs 1800lbs. A SR in it would be pretty cool. Not sure yet.

By "equal mods" I assume you mean running a stock SR against a KA after you replace the pistons because of the tiny ring lands and after you add a turbo manifold and a turbo and jury rig a way to oil it and cool it and return the oil to the pan and after you throw away the ecu and mass air and buy new ones and get it tuned and after you buy a front mount and all the plumbing needed to make it all work. Is that the "equal mods" you are referring too? How much is a stand alone now a days anyway, 1500.00? Turbo, 1200.00? Oops, just payed for an SR that's revs like mad, makes 240ish HP and almost as much torque with NO mods, makes boost at 2200rpm, comes as a complete unit that makes it a bolt in, in one day if you've done it before,(in an SX) has readily available parts and can run forever if you only be reasonable with it. I'm just pulling your strings. I like both engines but an SR is way easier and man they run well. The revs are right there. It has plenty of torque unless you want it in a 2.5 ton something. I built a turbo KA first. It ran well but then I put an SR in a different car and it was night and day. I sold the KA and have been running an SR since. I autox it heavily at 3 clubs, put on 3 sets of race tires this year, race against cars with twice the power and always do well. The car and engine are never an issue. New vettes overheat and the SR just purrs. I never even open the hood at autox. We even double drive many times with no heating or anything else issues. It's amazing to me how I am classed as one of the "power" cars. People think I have 400 WHP and I normally run less than half that. At autox with 275 tires, I normally can't run more than 10lbs or the power is just too hard to control. It is a 2500 lb car. We set the boost gain at 5% to slow down the boost or turn the controller off. Didn't mean to go on this long but I grew up with big blocks when boosting cars didn't have anything to do with turbos. I've had many very hot cars but I still can't believe what a 2L can do. LOGR

Gotta ask, Why are they annoying? Because they make so much power so easily, because they get so much mileage, because they are so reliable or _____________?

I like "outside the box" in all of life. I blew up so many Powerslides that I had to learn how to rebuild them while still in high school. My parents were not impressed until I could fix them also. Guess that may date me a bit. I have never even considered an automatic for autox. I watch the karts spin every time they try to power out of a corner with that snowmobile clutch set up and dismiss it. That said, it is an interesting idea. If you could get the gears right, the torque converter could take care of the low speed manuevers with slip and the top end needed might still be there. I'm just not sure how I would like the "hit" when you give it gas coming out of a tight manuever. Left foot braking could make a big difference. I've always thought it could be a big help on a turbo anyway but I seem to never be able to remember to do it at the important times. With no clutch to worry about though, hmmmm. Auto AND Turbo, hmmmm. As for weight balance, don't forget the minimum of 2280lbs. Ballast in the tool kit holes and battery in the back and it might be close. Powerglides are very heavy. The converter weighs close to what an SR trans weighs. I would most likely stay with manual. This car was to be a driver that I might autox too. My SX is so close to being a very good autox car. I have been considering the 285's for it for a while. The PDM car we beat at the tour was a very nice car and he had 275/17F and 315/17R. He was running a turbo'd KA with 460WHP. Cody (my codriver) was the only reason we won. I would have loved to see Cody drive that car at the Nationals. Don (the owner) may do just as well but giving Cody a chance would have been interesting. Don said he was giving up on the SX and building a 510 all out. I'm sure it will be done right. Anyway, this sure gives me food for thought. Winter is coming up and I need something to build.

Sorry Ken, I fixed it. I meant Cody. Please Register for this weekend. Yes, there should be an FP car with a Robello engine. 300hp but not enough rubber and pretty touchy power, also 14/1 compression which means 9.50/gal. fuel. It's alot like big turbo power from what I hear. I does run hard though. JohnC, I will look for that thread. It still surprises me. I was hoping to get the weight to the minimum with 55-58% or so on the rear. I like the 285's and have thought of them for my SX but I really like the 275/35/15 for the shortness. I can run most tight courses in second and have unreal pull out of the corners without shifting. I put in a 4.6 and 23in tires. 2nd at 6 ft. and stay there most of the time. I do use 3rd quite a bit on faster courses and even hit 4th at Top Gun in Helena. The Top Gun video has Cody saying I forgot to shift to 4th. Sometimes it is more shifting but it is SO much easier to hit 2nd than first and 2nd and 3rd are so close together that the jump is minimal so the power is always right there. I can fit the 275's under the car with no flares but need more tire if I up the power at all. We usually run 10-12lbs with gain at 10% to slow up the boost hit. I have some really light rotating parts and maybe should have saved my money. The spin up is so fast that the tires can't keep up and part throttle is hard to do smoothly on a turbo.

This really surprises me. I'm still all for it because I think I can move the weight back and the more efficient engine with more power is a win, win situation but it sure seems like it would be lighter. Do you mean the SR isn't lighter than an L28? I have both engines in my shop but no easy way of weighing them. Essentially you are saying that the total weight is the same but relocated? Quite a bit of work/money to relocate 100-150 lbs. It is also interesting that you think a Z, with it's 30 yr. old suspension design can win SM2 Nationally. My SX is very fast, with the right driver, but there is a vette with a built small block that cleans our clock most every time we race. It revs like no other. Now I'm intrigued. CODY and MikeyV (our local super drivers) both say my SX is the most fun and best turning car they have driven. We took 1st,2nd and 3rd at the vette club autox this last weekend, all in my car. They beat their fast times in their cars, with one run each in my car. Mitzy also beat her best time in the cobra with mine. We were swapping around a lot.

Ken, I will probably wait for bad weather to start though I might finish building the SR in the meantime. I need to get alot done around here and we have 2 more race weekends which take up much of my time. I plan on using a crossmember type set up for the engine mount with the stock SR mounts if possible. I like your torque but light is might. Are you going to come up for our next event?