osirus9
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Posts posted by osirus9
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Alright alright, I know that low impedance injectors are a tiny bit faster than high impedance. I was just making sure you didn't wire them straight into the MS like you would with high z injectors. That'd be a good way to run too much current through your board.
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You're running resistors for each of those low impedance injectors right?
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my opinion is that since the wiring is already in place and you're not afraid to get an ms2 running there is no need to get ms3 pro. The pro and MS3X are essentially the same computer with the same features, just that the pro will not require any internal modification to work with whatever application, it is smaller, it is pretty much waterproof, and it has slightly different wiring labeling.
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Or...
Since you're going to need a Megasquirt in the future to run that RB30 you might want to just get an MS3X and go full sequential injection and COP. That way when you do switch to the new engine the engine is the unknown and not the engine AND the EMS. That's what I'm doing and so far I'm glad I am. There are a ton of little things I wouldn't want to have to sort out while second guessing the hardware.
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Hey guys, I was searching the internet far and wide trying to find a figure for dead times on my injectors and I found a cool website that other people will probably find useful.
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html
These are probably not going to be exactly the same as your injectors, so if you're feeling adventurous you can measure your actual individual injector dead times using this page here:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/injdeadtime.html
Hope this helps somebody.
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I've got one, PM if interested.
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I have a pair. PM me if interested.
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bump
somebody must have access to a junked Z!
Sadly there are none up here in Chicago.
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unfortunately I'd need a matching driver's side lock to go along with the ignition.
So in case anybody is wondering why I am asking for these random lock combinations I can explain farther. I currently have 1 key for the ignition of one type (key slots on the wrong side of the key). I have a key for the passenger door and hatch of the other type. And I have no proper lock or key for the driver's side at all. So it is acceptable for me to have 1 key for the ignition and the driver's side and another for the passenger side/hatch. But just replacing the ignition gets me nowhere. Also I am not willing to deal with 3 keys (4 including the gas tank...).
Thanks though!
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Like the title says! Must be matching, and must be from those 2 years. Older style locks won't work.
Also considering buying just an ignition and driver's side locks that match from those years.
Please have pictures so I can confirm the locks are of the correct type.
PM me with offers!
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I would totally rock one of those bad boys.
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Are these better than the stock hinges in some way? Besides being shiny I suppose.
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Why in the world are you trying to install flares without cutting the fenders? Your wheels will never be able to get close to them due to the stock fender being in the way. You'll never get that stanced look you're after.
Just follow this guide or have them installed, it's not that hard to cut the fenders.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/
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get coilovers. If there is any doubt in your mind then just go for it and never look back. That's what I did and I've never regretted it. I use my car for mostly daily, and the occasional autoX
Farting around with lowering springs and cutting coils will get you to the same height as coilovers but with none of the handling. Just go for it, it's really not the expensive if you consider the amount of time you;ll spend messing with your current suspension. Do it once, and do it right.
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That's awesome info phantom. looks like my car is just about even with yours even with my wider tires and a 3.7 diff with a '78 5spd (yes I changed the speedo gear, it is right).
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17 is like 50/50 highway at about 70 and rural/suburban driving mostly cruising at about 45mph. I don't think it will improve much more than that and that's fine. But in case anyone was wondering all the EFI adjustments i did were free or nearly free and just cost some time with a multimeter and some research. I think that's totally worth 3mpg.
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So after I did my EFI adjustments I was up to 17.6mpg! Still losing fuel pressure though.
So I popped my fuel rail off and pressurized the fuel system. Apparently ALL my injectors leak? How could they all leak!?
pics of the test setup and results:
This picture was taken after about a half hour of letting the system sit and depressurize.
So I took my extra set of injectors, looked them over, and none of them look that great. I'm going to send them off to get cleaned and be done with this mess...
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This is one of those threads that could ramble around for weeks, but just for curiosity what is unknown about the injectors? Do you have a part number? Are they the stock injectors for the engine you're using? Turbo injectors? Or truly unknown?
If you have the wrong injectors for the EFI system you're wasting money buying Seafoam.
Unknown as in they are the right injectors as far as I can tell for the engine, but they did not come off a running car. I have all 3 colors of injectors, green, tan, and white.
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Before I swapped to the V8, My '78 was getting a consistent 23MPG on a 225,000 mile engine. Ironically, it got about the same with the 8, if I could keep the back half of the carb closed. Someone mentioned the possibility of the injectors having inconsistent flow due to carbon deposits. You may need to check the spring tension of the air flow meter. I've heard of people trying to richen up the fuel by altering the spring.
The weird thing is that I have another AFM and all the resistances check out, and the I tested the spring tension on it and that checks out too. If I put that in the car it runs like total garbage, it will hesitate and barely rev. The one I have in there now has totally different resistances than what the FSM specifies, but the car runs way better with it.
Does anybody know if there were different AFMs and ECUs between 280Z years? I know my ECU was replaced at some point, but it was from a 77 automatic, I have a 78 Manual.
Also I put like 70 miles on the car since I added seafoam. I can tell that there is a difference, but I don't know if it is just the valve adjustment I did or what. The car feels *SLIGHTLY* faster from the butt dyno, but I still have to give it ~80% throttle to keep up with normal acceleration of other cars. I still lose fuel pressure after letting the car sit too.
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I think the next thing I'm going to do is pull the rail off and put a paper towel under the injectors and just lay them on the manifold but still hooked up to the fuel lines, then unplug the starter signal wire and pressurize the system. If an injector is leaking I'll be able to see it on the towel. If I get no leaks then I'll know I need a new fuel pump.
I guess no one has thought about pulling the rail and having it sit on some cardboard to find a leaky injector?
That's what I'm going to try next if this seafoam business doesn't work out.
Parts for sale!
in Parts for Sale
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How much for the turbo exhaust manifold? Have any pics?