osirus9
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Posts posted by osirus9
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Thanks for the info, I didn't notice the different valves, but I also didn't check. I should have been more specific, the p90 has all the valves and most of the springs and retainers, so really I would just be stealing a few valve springs and retainers from the p79, as well as rocker arms and lash pads (keeping them matched up) and using either the B or A cam I've got.
I have read about the great success of people just running junkyard motors, so I want to save money on any engine work for now and concentrate on buying a quality intake/exhaust/turbo/EMS while leaving the motor as a hybrid of stock parts. I feel that from what I've read it should be able to get my goal of 325 RWHP just fine with all stock engine parts.
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ok, so after more research it seems to me that all the parts in the L6 valve train are identical between 70-83 except the rocker arms on the 81-83 turbo. I've read a few threads about that as well and there was no real conclusion as to if they are actually different in any way except for part number.
So I suppose I would be safe just re-using all of the valve train from the p79 in the p90 as well as using whichever stock cam I fancy. Now I just have to find a shop around Chicago that actually knows anything about this engine to assemble it all and check the clearances...
Also, just by looking at the atlantic z numbers.. and I know very little about all the factors behind cams, but is the reason people like the "A" cam because it has an intake/exhaust duration of 248/248 as opposed to the 240/240 of the J cam that comes in most p90s? By that logic is the E88 C cam the "best" with its duration of 256/256? Or is that too much duration for a turbo motor?
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I'm going to be doing this exact same thing in the motor I'm building, and I'm wondering which cam to use with the stock valve train as well. I've got a P79 with a "B" cam and an N42 with what I assume is the stock "A" cam, but I forgot to check when the valve cover was off. Now the N42 is running in good condition, and the P79 is unknown, assumed running condition. Now I have a p90 with nothing on it that will be the base for my turbo motor.
So really, we both have the same question: Are the valve trains interchangeable? And which stock cam is best for more pwer?
Also, could I use the valve train from the n42 in the p90? Or would I have to buy all new stuff? I've heard people running turbo motors use "A" cams, but why is that? Is a "B" cam really that different?
I see the link to the cam profiles, but I must admit, those cam numbers don't really make sense to me. I came from rotary engines and all this head and cam stuff is greek to me so far, but I'm trying to understand it. Thanks guys.
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well its complete, but somebody took the cam out before I got it. I have the right cam, its just not installed.Otherwise I'd take your advice and just not deal with it at all.
So If I use all the wear parts from the p79 and keep them all matched up together there should be no issues moving them to the p90 correct?
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I went to h4lights.com but I don't see where they sell a relay harness? Unless you're talking about the 240z harness that MSA sells? I have a 280Z, so no harness for me
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You owe me a 10 second car...
For quoting F&F
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haha yup. That's what its all about man.
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Honestly I wouldn't mind using my Z as a delivery car. The stock L engine is a tank and I beat on mine all the time. It always starts right up for me like a champ. 34 years later and 95k miles on the clock. Now that's reliable! I also just picked up a spare engine for $150... that's hard to do on any newer car!
The only problem is gas mileage kinda sucks for me, but you should be able to get 20mpg or better stock. To me thats worth it to drive a car I love.
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So essentially, there is something wrong with my car causing it to run rich. I am planning on buying some supra 440cc injectors for my turbo build, and I've got an extra set of stock injectors laying around. I think I'll buy some cheap supra injectors, and send them along with my spare stockers to witchhunter (I've used them before, they're great) and get the lot cleaned and tested. Thanks for the info once again guys.
At the very least this will rule out my injectors as the culprit. But if they're not the problem then I'll just deal until I get my Haltech installed.
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Gas milage will depend on your engine's condition. Two words that will solve your question: OLD CAR.
That is an utterly unhelpful answer...
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So maybe I'm not as retarded as I thought I was (or maybe I'm even more retarded haha) but after driving 30 miles my squeak is starting to come back. It only does it on cornering or braking, but not over big bumps or on acceleration like before. Its also not as bad, but its still annoying since I thought it was gone for sure this time!
I'm going to re-check ALL the bolts to make sure they're tight first this time, then maybe start blaming the sway bar for a change... sigh.
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I have a similar unknown F54 block engine with flat tops that I'm planning to swap my p90 head onto instead of the p79. The thing is, I bought it all disassembled so I can't really test its condition, but the seller assured me it ran fine before it was pulled. I see that there is some surface rust on the top of the block under the headgasket but it looks fine other than that. What is the best way to get rid of this rust? Can I just sand it off with a block of sandpaper if I plug all the coolant/oil passages first?
also, my p90 head has no cam or rocker arms, can I use the "B" cam from the p79 and the p79 rocker arms/lash pads on the p90?
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That's exactly what I'd like to do. The problem is I'm not sure how to wire it myself and I don't know why there is a kit for the 240 but not the 280, and if there are any differences between them besides the actual plug.
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I'd definitely like to see it with a center section if you try that. I think it looks a bit odd with the gap in the middle, but hey, that's just my personal taste. The idea is definitely cool though. I may try something like this in the future.
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I also read that the universal harnesses were garbage...
I'm not really worried about the connector, I could buy any weatherpak connector and replace the stock connector with it. The problem is knowing which wire goes where in the different connector.
Do you know the name of the guy who makes the harnesses? Maybe he could give me some first hand info on what exactly is required to adapt the harness from the 240z to the 280z.
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So yea, just to clarify, I'm not concerned about the idle load either. I would expect my alternator to create more load when my headlights are on, I see no problem with that at all. I will also be switching to an aftermarket EMS in the next year or 2 so I'm double unconcerned.
The headlight wiring is really my problem here. I'm not really that good with reading the FSM wiring diagrams and I'd prefer some kind of retard-proof instructions to just "it'll probably work... but I'm not sure"
So if the 280z doesn't have a relay in the headlight harness, and the only difference is the plugs, then why doesn't anybody sell the same relay kit from the 240z for the 280z? I'm guessing there is some other reason, because if it were that simple somebody would have done it by now.
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Well at least you fixed up your spindle bushings in te mean while.
It just shows you how noises transmit around the suspensions on these cars
My thoughts exactly...
I also got a tub o' bushing lube and a new set of poly bushings for my LCA out of the deal haha.
It could have been worse, I was almost to the point of taking it to the shop... That would have been way more expensive and embarrassing.
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huh, so the 240z harness is identical except for the connector? If that's true I could just cut off the connectors and splice the wires together...
Or is this just not necessary on the 280z?
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So I've been searching around about this headlight harness upgrade, and, correct me if I'm wrong, it seems like it is only for the 240Z?
I have a 280Z and my headlights are pretty dim. I was hoping adding relays would help, but since nobody seems to do that on the 280 does that mean it already has relays in the harness?
Or are my only options buying some kind of aftermarket halogen bulb? Has anybody got any info on such an upgrade?
EDIT:
I see that MSA sells an H4 style replacement headlight upgrade, so that answers that question. But in order to use it will the stock wiring in the 280Z be sufficient?
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Glad to see you stuck with it. Any chances of some pics of your mods while they're underway?
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So I finally fixed my squeaking noise,,,
It turns out that after blaming the spindle pins the whole time, it was actually just me being a retard. I guess I didn't tighten the front passenger inner LCA nut all the way, or it came loose somehow. Either way, I had the whole LCA taken apart and was removing the front diff brace and my hand brushed that big nut on the LCA. It spun just by brushing it! I tightened it down and put everything back together and test drove the car. Bam, noise is gone.
So to any other people who have this problem and are SURE they tightened everything down properly.. CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN.
Anyway, thanks for the help guys.
herp a derp derp...
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Thanks for the advice ryan, I'll be using it probably next winter after I finish accumulating all the parts I need. I just got an F54 block with flat tops and a distributor from the same car and I've got a p90 sitting on the shelf waiting to go. I still need the sprint 500, probably an MSD blaster coilpack, the z31 degree wheel, various other sensors and wiring, and a turbo and an exhaust manifold. I've got plans for it all, just need time and money to catch up with my dreams haha.
Seriously so tempted to skip painting the car until next year and start on the turbo build now.... arg, but that'd ruin the pristine chassis, and we can't have that.
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ryan95i4
Thank you so much for taking the time to clarify all that for me! I was really scratching my head when I was talking to Haltech tech support because they were giving me some conflicting information, but what you posted makes way more sense. Definitely going with the 500 now. I don't really need the extra inputs as I plan to just use a manual boost controller and no meth/water injection or 2 step rev limiters or anything fancy like that. Maybe they meant the 500 doesn't have internal logging? I'm not really sure. Also thanks for explaining the difference between the wheels, I am definitely going to copy your setup at least as far as triggering spark goes.
So I can just take a 280ZX distributor and swap the wheels with that of a z31, and nothing else is needed? That's a pretty awesome bolt on solution for getting better than wasted spark/batch injection. I'm a bit leery of actually tuning the car myself since I'm terrified I'll blow up my engine, but my tuner will enjoy the extra options I'm sure. Maybe I'll try a rough tune to get it driveable this time and actually drive to my tuner... we'll see.
Thanks for posting all this info up, I for one found it extremely helpful and will be referencing it once I start installing my sprint 500.
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L28ET would definitely be the easiest swap out there. You could just turbo the motor thats already in there and get an aftermarket EMS. You'd be able to get 200-350hp safely and reliably on the stock bottom end. There is also a TON of info on every which way to do this swap on this site.
Swapping Nissan L6 Cams?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Tony. So essentially, if I'm not doing any headwork any stock cam is basically the same.
I was following the other thread on here about which turbo to use with the senza intake as well, so I'm thinking a GT3071R would be a good turbo for my goals as well. It looks like it will support that power easily and stay away from the surge line unlike the 3076.