osirus9
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Posts posted by osirus9
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Great info in this build but...
IT NEEDS MORE PICTURES!!
Keep up the good work.
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FYI, I called z car source and they were very nice. I spoke with Scott and he commended my patience and told me that there are other people waiting for Tokico to get their Sh!t together as well. He told me again that Tokico is embroiled in some legal BS with their bankrupt US distributor and are trying to find a replacement distributor. He is hopeful about them getting some stuff shipped to the US by the end of the year. That means I'll have only waited 10 months! Yay...
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so essentially (as per linked thread)... just keep waiting... because Tokico is having manufacturing and distribution issues.
Is there any sort of official statement from Tokico to that effect?
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So I ordered a set of Tokico Illuminas with springs for my 78 280Z on February 3rd from z car source. They called me later that day and told me that day that they were on back order, so I didn't worry about it too much because I didn't need them right away. Then May rolled around and I called them again asking where my suspension was, because it was spring and it was holding up my project. They told me again that the parts were on back order from Tokico and there was nothing I could do about it except get a refund. I don't want a refund, I want this suspension! Tokico Illuminas are the only adjustable street shocks you can buy for a 280Z to my knowledge so I didn't see much of a choice but to keep waiting. Now it's August, and I still haven't gotten my parts. Z car source has shipped everything else I've ordered from them promptly, so I am willing to trust them pretty far, but its been 6 months now and I can't find anything online about Tokico being massively back ordered...
Has this happened to anybody else? Is this store just jerking me around? Or is Tokico really just back ordered 6 months?
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Excuse me. Must have been that crack I smoked earlier. The sleeve is captured by the bolt so it doesn't move in the front. In the rear, it's captured on the control arm so it moves with the control arm, and the bushing stays stationary. What I was trying to say earlier was that the sleeve needs to be locked down tight.
The bushings are not as long as the sleeve. But when you install the bushings in the arm or in the chassis, they are spaced out a bit and what you don't want is the bushing really squished in there when the bolt gets tightened. If the bushing is really squished, then it is squeezing the sleeve, and that makes it harder to move the control arm. Stiction in the suspension is bad.
oh crap, that's my problem right there. The bushings I put in were SUPER tight, but I was able to force them into place without TOO much trouble. I figured they were supposed to be like that... Time to take my spindle pins out again. At least this time I won't need a 5 ton press and an impact hammer.
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ARG! I have the same problem with my rear suspension. My old rubbers were totally rotted out, so I replaced them with the bushing kit from zcarsource. Now it sounds like I'm driving a squeeking old wagon... Gonna have to take it all apart again and add zerks and regrease. Possibly adding grooves because I had the same ultra tight fit on the LCA bushings. It only squeaks in the back though, so I guess I did the front properly? :shrug:
Also mine were two piece, and they were not symmetrical, so you had to make sure you matched a long and a short (urethane) side together to get the right fit. I think when I take it apart again I'm just gonna do all 4 LCA lower (the spindle pin ones, I assume those are the lowers) bushings and see if those are the only noisy ones before installing zerks on everything.
Let me know if that makes sense madkaw.
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I don't mean to thread jack but I think this is a pretty related question.
If you did decide to change heads, say to a p90, what cam would you guys use for a turbo setup like this, or for say 350rwhp? Just the stock cam? any lift/duration numbers preferred?
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If swapping the ECU allowed it to run I'd say you're probably looking at an electrical problem. Start by checking all the voltages to the ECU under the dash and comparing them to the FSM, that should help you narrow it down to a bad sensor. It could also easily be fuel related, have you changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure? Could also be a really big vacuum leak, if the idle is super rough when you actually get it to idle. Try replacing the vacuum hoses... Honestly it could be a lot of things, or a combination of things. Hope you get it figured out!
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oh man, I love this forum! I'm ordering a brace from Burleigh right now. I suppose I don't NEED it, but I like the idea of keeping the finned cover, and I don't want to open up the diff to swap.
I suppose I'll figure out the ring gear bolt situation when I get to taking out the diff, which should hopefully be some time this week. It looks like the diff in my car was messed with, so I have no way of knowing if it's from my 78 or was swapped in at some point. I also don't know the year the lsd was made, just the model so I'll just have to wait and see. I'm thinking adapter bolts will work instead of drilling?
and I DO need to swap companion flanges correct? Is there a special tool I need to do that, like a puller or something?
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OK, I just want to be clear I looked around already, but I've found a lot of conflicting information on the subject.
I want to swap the R200 open diff on my 280z for the CLSD from the 88 Z31. I already have the new diff, but I haven't gotten a chance to try and install it yet.
So far I've gathered that this is a bolt on swap and the ONLY thing I have to do is swap the driveshaft companion flange.
Now, Some people say that I need to take off the finned cover and put my old non-finned cover on. I'd like to retain the finned cover so my diff won't overheat. Is there a bolt-on friendly (read: no welding) way of doing this? z31 mustache bar or something? Is this even a real problem?
Thanks guys.
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Thanks guys, I'll ask my shop about just sanding down to the primer and putting on some acrylic paint. I don't think a shop will spray lacquer anymore, something about it being illegal.
Unfortunately there is no amount of shining I can do to save this paint. It looks like the previous owner attempted a cheap respray and the paint is cracking in a few areas. It comes off if you try to buff it too.
That's part of why I was under the impression that new paint wouldn't stick. Basically, that's right, and I have to get the car sanded down to the primer/metal if I want any kind of lasting paint job.
I did see paintforcars, but I'm looking for something I'll only have to do once.
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Hello everybody,
I would like to open with: Yes I did in fact search for my answer. I found a lot of advice for the do it yourself painter who is going down to bare metal on a rotisserie, but that person is not me.
I was looking for some confirmation on what I've been hearing about painting a z. A paint shop told me that it has old lacquer paint on it, and if they try to paint modern paint over it it will not stick, and it will bubble and crack within the year. They said that the paint would need to be sanded down to bare metal first.
Is this true?
Is there any kind of primer that can "adapt" Lacquer paint to modern paint?
I am very lucky, and I don't have very much rust damage on the car at all (it's from the desert in California), so the body is in good shape but the paint is VERY faded. I want to just get it resprayed black and keep the stock color, but I don't have 5 grand for a crazy paintjob. I also can't do much, if any, of the prepwork myself because my garage is a rental. I could wait and spend that much, but I'm not looking for showcar quality, just average. The fun part for me is the engine and suspension
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Check out Los angeles Craigslist, there is an LSD z31 for $700
Do you happen to have a link?
I'm having a new LSD center intalled in an r-200 as soon as the shop can get to it. It's being mated to a 3:70 ring and pinion including the case . from an early 1987 Z-31 that had 53k miles. Check your P/mes...
Pm'd
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WTB Z31 Turbo LSD (87-89) and 16x8 +0 Offset 4x114.3 Enkei 92sOpen to other kinds of wheels, but they need to be those specs,. Could go 17 or slightly different offset, but must be an 8 inch or bigger wheel and fit a lowered 280z.Please reply to this thread and I will get back to you!Thanks,-Travis
Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?
in L-Series
Posted
Hey, I'm bumping this bad boy up from the grave with a few questions for people who have done this.
So I've read this entire thread, and I will be going ahead and doing this mod when I rebuild my engine and go turbo. I don't have any issues keeping my temps under control now even on super hot autocross days, or stuck in traffic in 95+ weather, so I can only assume my cooling system is up to snuff. I am going to get a higher pressure radiator cap, add some water wetter, and do this mod, which I gather will be sufficient to safely keep my engine happy at around 350hp which is where I hope to be. I also understand that this mod doesn't really cool the engine down more, but instead evens out the flow so there is less stagnant water in the rear of the head, thus helping to prevent premature detonation in those cylinders due to boiling steam pockets.
Now, I've heard people running higher pressure caps, between 18-30#, what kind of pressure cap would be a good idea for my pretty common setup? I'm guessing 18 would be fine for me, but what are the risks of running a higher pressure cap? How high can you run the pressure without damaging oem-style coolant hoses?
I've also seen some pictures of people's setups and it looked to me like KTM ran his 5-6 bypass lines into where the heater hose attaches near the lower rad hose. Forgive me, but this is the inlet of the water pump right? How does bypassing the radiator help cool the engine?
I would think you would want to route the coolant around to the front of the engine to the lower thermostat housing, but I have not seen a picture showing how people have routed hoses to that area. I suppose you could just run a line across the top of the intake manifold by the injectors? It looks like PCM raceengines was doing this, but his setup was incomplete at the time. Would this be a superior arrangement?
Also, the talk of the internal bypass... if you routed your 5/6 bypass to the lower thermostat housing, would you be able to block off this internal bypass without risking cavitation?
Again, apologies, I read the whole thing but I'm no fluid dynamics engineer, so much of it (especially Tony Ds posts haha) went over my head, although the summaries helped a lot, I just want to clarify a few points before I do something stupid.