Jesse OBrien
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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien
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I love the TA22! You still have it, I hope?
I've spent a fair amount of time/money getting this roadworthy, and am looking at another two weeks here before the final shakedown then the long trip. The new motor's in there, and the suspension is all bolted and tightened. I still need to go through the brake system still, and get my new tires mounted up. I also need to pick up one of the 5speeds that I've found (I swear, they're seasonal out here). I'm about to call a guy back right now, wish me luck!
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I believe it's called a 'nibbler'. They're pretty specialized and do an AWESOME job. Maybe I'll pick that up instead of the die grinder tomorrow.
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Thanks for the encouragement, I just want to make sure I don't get in over my head and get frustrated. So far, aside from using this craptastical tool, it's been a great experience!
This piece of poo is NOT a metal cutting tool in ANY sense of the word. I already have a great handheld impact drive that'll drill through pretty much anything! Just so you know what I'm talking about, this is the rotozip:
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vids would be even better
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So far, I've just been cutting some sheet metal that I got ahold of, but seeing how easy steel is to work with, I have a feeling this is going to get out of hand pretty quickly. I've wanted a welder for quite some time now, but never actually broke down and purchased one. I think I'm going to wait until after I move back to the East Coast (so I don't have to drive a welder cross-country, and so I'll have PROPER electrical in my garage).
Anyway, enough back story. It all started when I found a need for a block-off plate on my l28et, where the power steering pump once sat. I picked up some steel at a local machining shop (during off-hours, the awesome owner actually handed the keys to his front door over to me minutes after we met, awesome experience) for free (plus a little rust). I headed down to Home Depot to get a new quick-release fitting and hose for my compressor, along with a Die Grinder. I explained exactly what I was doing to their self-proclaimed "tool guy" and he told me to get a Roto-Zip, the granddaddy to the Dremel.
In all actuality, it's just a goddamned drill. It's a piece of ♥♥♥♥ tool that I wouldn't use against my enemies. I actually ended up using my dremel with a cut-off wheel instead, and intend to return the shitty electric Roto-Zip and exchange it for a proper tool: a die grinder. Anyway, here's what I ended up with (still needs paint and I need to make a gasket for it):Don't laugh, this is a big step for me! I also went ahead and started my switch panel to go in the dash. I may add media controls to this as well:
I'll post more when everything's painted, if anybody's interested in seeing my feeble attempts to start 'fabrication (minus welding)'.
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PM sent.
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I'm about to drive across country, but the ratios of my 3 4speeds aren't exactly ideal for it. I could REALLY use a 5spd that'll bolt up to the l-series, but not a t-5. I'd need a custom driveshaft for the t-5.
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Well, it may be the worst picture I could possibly have taken, but here it is:
I'm still waiting on quite a bit (like the turbo, for instance), but it's in. Still looking for a 5spd.
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I have a 4spd prepped to go in, but I'm still looking for a 5spd. If anybody has one or knows of someone who does, let me know!
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shoot me a PM on Ratsun with pics of em and might be able to help
I'll get it over to you tonight, thanks man!
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Last night, I decided it was a good idea to rebuild the wastegate and blow-off valve I received off eBay after hearing some horror stories about their construction quality. Other than a somewhat flakey-looking BOV gasket (which is an easy replacement in the future), they both looked solid and went back together nicely:
Wastegate construction:
BOV construction:
Engine goes in tomorrow. I could use a wiring diagram for the two white clips that attach to the body harness from the engine wiring harness. Anybody know where those wires go?
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I love that downpipe, I think I'm going to do my best to copy your design for the wastegate mounting and downpipe. Hope you don't mind, it's just what I was looking for to go off of!
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A 60mm wastegate is really pretty large!
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If you haven't already wired up the relays (I suspect you haven't), you're welcome to check out my relay wiring. I've got a couple wired up right now.
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The last time I went there looking for a tranny, it was "transmission special" week, with 10% off all transmissions. Manual transmissions are listed at $99, which I confirmed as I walked in. We went and pulled the tranny, and they rang me up for $320. WTF?
I'll find a 5spd, but PNP is an absolute last-ditch effort. If ALL ELSE fails, they'll get consideration. I don't think there are any Z 'clubs' up here, just a bunch of disorganized people from hybridz who occasionally have bbq's together (our next is Aug 8th, and I want to be able to leave the meet and start across the country from there... Aug 1st is when I want to be ready, driveable, and have some kind of shakedown completed successfully).
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If you can, get some videos of the shakedown. I'm already excited to see somebody else's Z moving of its own accord (after years of sitting around... mine was in a mudpit).
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I tore it down (no 5th gear present), and don't know of anywhere that has a 5spd lying around. I think the pick 'n pull has a 280zx with a 5spd, but I really really really really really dislike pick 'n pull. I have no problem purchasing one, but I'd rather the money go to a hbz'er rather than that cutthroat, hateful company.
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Wow.. fifteen, maybe even ten years ago, the consensus would have been to stick it out with the SUs. Alot of people would have opted to swap SUs and the standard hybrid electronic dizzy setup into a 280ZX to get rid of "all that EFI garbage" in your situation.
One option that hasn't been mentioned: drop in the L28ET longblock, with the SUs on it, and bring your turbo hardware. Sell the L24 to whomever gets the extra three trannies. You could even do a head swap (bringing along the P90 in the back, of course) if you wanted to keep the cam/compression of the E88 for the purposes of cross country NA SU goodness.
Then again. if you don't know your SUs and you DO know your EFI, it IS a different world than it once was... but it seems like asking for a boatload of risk.
Go to wal mart or harbor ffreight or some other store and buy a 10-15 dollar 12V tire inflator pump, and a tire plug kit. Screw Fix A Flat (unless ALL ELSE FAILS, it isnt a horrible emergency supply, i just hate to actually use it) A couple of small LED or spotlights, possibly with magnetic bases.. the automotive aisle sort of junk at wal mart.. A light like that can be verrrry useful. You could also buy a booster pack with a light, inflator, etc all built in.
You know, that's actually an option right now. I know EFI in general (I came from the Honda world, so I know PGMFI rather well, but this MAF crap doesn't look fun at all). I know carbs in a kinda-sorta way. I can figure them out, but have far less experience troubleshooting them. Especially SU's, which are a little non-standard, and even moreso when there's a pair of them. Either way, I'm running with a boatload of risk, but I've considered riding back with the turbo, wastegate, and bov in a box and just running the carbs for the drive. However, I'm pretty sure my mileage would be less impressive if I did that.
I'm not entirely sure, but one of the guys on Ratsun got me thinking about these 4spds. One in particular has me wondering if it's a 5spd and not just a piddly 4. The shift linkage has a bit of play in it though, so I'm having a tough time determining whether or not that's another gear I'm going into after the reverse gate or not. I think it is. Does anybody know of a definite way to tell? Should I just crack it open, or is that a can of worms I don't want to mess with? Does the casting code do any good to help identify it?
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I need to cover some other parts of the car with por15 so I'll be buying a bunch fairly soon.
The thunderbird IC doesn't bother me, it's the funky mounting flanges and odd shape that bother me. It flows pretty nicely and is pretty thick, so I think it'd get the job done nicely. If I go with anything else, it'll be a nice big fmic.
I doubt the 2.8 is going to leave my hands, I'm starting to like it and just ordered a few hundred dollars worth of parts for it. Pics to come soon
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I discovered a GREAT metal shop right down the street from me, I think I'm going to see if he can do a bunch of work for me before I go (battery tray replacement, fabricate a sealed battery box for the rear for me, fix my floors, etc). That way I'll be all safe-like for you (even though I have no co-pilot for this drive, unfortunately).
I just found some s12w calipers and have decided that my current brakes need to be replaced pretty badly. Anybody have a set of rear drums that aren't completely destroyed like mine are that you aren't using?
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I'm bringing this one back from the dead (again). I have a whole pile of spare parts lying around in my garage, including a set of s12w calipers, and it seems like a good idea to put them on. I really don't need the whole kit from modern-motorsports and $130 seems a bit steep for a couple of spacers, so does anybody know the dimensions (thickness, inner diameter, and outer diameter) of a pair of spacers so I can just make some myself? I'd really appreciate it if anybody has some measurements to work off of.
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I think you may be talking about a more in-depth floor repair than I am. I could just as easily do the drive with it just like it is, but it'd be loud and I don't want the underside of my passenger's seat to get all roughed up by rocks.
Here's a picture to illustrate what I mean. I was thinking lay down a sheet of steel on top, and pop rivet it with a few inches of overlap on every side unless I can get someone to weld it all together pretty-like.
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sure, take the fun out of a road trip.........
also, pop rivets holding the floors on man? come on, thats almost as dangerous if not mroe then using fiberglass.
...I was originally going to just put down some plywood.
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I hate you guys, you're all giving such great reasons to do both. Well, here's the current status update:
Both engines are out, and I'm sussing out the wiring, adding a proper blade-style fuse box, and adding a few relays to the major systems of the car. I figure that's a good idea no matter which engine I use.
I have a few transmissions to choose from, but they're all 4spd, not exactly the greatest for a cross-country trip. Anybody want to trade 3 4spds for a 5spd?
Now its time to start cleaning the engine bay, replace that bad clutch line, fix the wiring, secure the battery (in a sealed tray), drop in the ZX radiator and Camaro radiator fan, and finish making my seat rails and somehow secure my floor (no welder, just pop rivets).
I'm using a thunderbird intercooler, have a BOV in my current plans, and have a Turbonetics .55ar turbo headed my way since I don't have the t3 any more. It's externally wastegated, and I think I'm just going to do a screamer pipe to keep it simple and non-time-consuming. Any suggestions for a cheap BOV and Wastegate?
In all actuality, it's just a goddamned drill. It's a piece of ♥♥♥♥ tool that I wouldn't use against my enemies. I actually ended up using my dremel with a cut-off wheel instead, and intend to return the shitty electric Roto-Zip and exchange it for a proper tool: a die grinder. Anyway, here's what I ended up with (still needs paint and I need to make a gasket for it):
Cross-country prep
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I just sold my RA29 fastback, which was a GREAT car. Check out my website, I've got a fair amount of info on it there.
I have a little update on the project now...
Engine's in, waiting for some wiring, intercooler, ductwork, and a turbocharger to be received.
I relocated my ignition to a nice under-dash area where my keys won't dangle and slap me in the legs:
I did some light fab work and made a switch panel:
(test fit final location)
(drilling holes for switches: fan, fuel pump, undecided)
I also finished fabricating a small block-off plate for the old power steering pump, which I won't be using. I just finished painting it (flat black, go figure!), and need to pick up some RTV sealant to make a gasket for it.
My new brake lines came in:
I tossed in a new steering wheel for $40 as well:
I cleaned up one of the four-speeds, but it looks like I won't be using it after all. I'm going to pick up a 5spd off a fellow Ratsun trucker who's going with an sr20, I should be able to make it up there this weekend! That means the 4speed is up for grabs.