Jesse OBrien
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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien
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Let's see some pictures, and I highly suggest gathering all your parts BEFORE starting the project. Car projects are especially susceptible to what's called "feature creep" in the software development world, where you keep adding things "while you're in there". Get to version 1.0, button it up, and plan out your version 2.0 after that.
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Oh, I've already cut out the floor, getting it welded up again once it's driving. There's cardboard over it right now, so nothing flies up into my face when I fire it up.
And no, none of this is for the ignition. The knife just happened to come in on the same shipment as the clutch master and slave cylinder. I'll still have to pick up a hydraulic line and bend it into place, but if all goes reasonably well I could be driving (illegally) tonight!
Is this new project partially my fault?
Yes. I blame you.
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New delivery! Woohoo!
Maybe it'll run tonight?
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*PS* your still missing a turbo
I was just thinking that. Why take an l28et to build for NA? Or, if you're looking at the opposite argument, why put ITBs on a turbo motor?
Absolutely love the build quality all-around though. Looking forward to more.
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Looking forward to seeing where this ends up. Subscribed.
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I just swapped wheel studs on my 260z using ARP M12x1.5 studs from Summit Racing. They fit perfectly, longer than youd ever need, reasonably priced, and are probably stronger than most studs you can get. You WILL need open ended lug nuts though, remember the thread isnt stock either.
I think I ordered these, but do some searching. I found info somewhere on this forum back when I was looking for longer studs..
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP-100-7708&N=700+115&autoview=sku
And that's even for a set of 5! I need new studs, I might just drop the $40 and get a full set of these.
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I don't see a problem with wheel spacers, they're essentially the same as having wheels with more offset (metal that makes the wheels stick out a little more, except that they weigh slightly more.)
Measure the threads of your wheel studs, and you should be able to get a direct-replacement here:
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I can't even sum up all the things that make this picture perfect. Do me a favor and walk with a cane from now on, so it's easier to follow your footsteps.
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I had gone down there in the red one, but only once. It was quite an interesting ride (the suspension in that car was very special. I don't have it any more, now I've got my black one and it's coming along very very slowly. This is a pretty great time to own a Z, lots of fun meets coming up in the near future
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I drive my 72 240zxt daily to school so its manually limited to 10psi. interesting commute. since the car is naturally so loud, every kid in a car mashes it when they see me lol. i've stopped following suit a while back. now i only do so if its a car that will probably beat me.
Where in the Bay Area are you?
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Since I lack a welder and have a spare s130, I may just see if the s130 pedals fit in the s30 chassis.
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I really wish I had some pics on hand, but I guess a description will have to do. I just put an s130 clutch master cylinder in my s30 to replace the VERY badly bent and seized one that came in the car. After I had everything bolted up, the shaft just kind of ... fell out ... of the master cylinder, and it really isn't even long enough to reach the pedal.
Is the shaft in the s130 MC shorter than in the s30 MC? Does anybody know what the shaft length actually is?
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I'm looking forward to an update on this, and some more detailed pictures.
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Also note that there are two s2000 motors, the f20c (ap1) and the f22c (ap2).
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I had the exhaust problems too. Couldn't go anywhere without smelling like exhaust. I tried everything. I must have used five gallons of silicone sealing everything. I pulled every panel out of the car including the tail lights...pulled up all the carpet sealed all the plugs...the fuel tank vents replaced hoses and sealed all the firewall penetrations and replaced the rear hatch seals and drain plugs as well but to no avail. It wasn't untill I was driving down the freeway one afternoon when a 77-78 280 passed me by and was burning oil like he had his own surplus. He slowed down as he passed me and he was obviously trying to get me to show him what I had under the hood. And that's when I saw the huge trail of white smoke circling the back of his car. It just sort of hung there circling the bumper and actually was being sucked back in under the car. It put out huge amounts of smoke on acceleration and deacelleration. So being the curious guy that I am...kept provoking him just to study how and where the fumes were being drawn back into the car. It was just like having my own wind tunnel with smoke and everything for a while. The whole back of the car obviously had a negative pressure zone that never allowed the exhaust to escape. Studing it for some time I came to the realization that I could have the whole car dipped in silicone and I would still never be able to stop the fumes from coming in. That's when it dawned on me...why not put an exhaust tip on the car that directs the flow out the side into the airstream flowing down the side of the car. It worked like a charm! Sure...it certainly changed the look of rear of my Z and I caught hell from all my friends asking me what the hell is that! ...but trust me...it was worth it! I wish I had some pics. I just took a stainless steel 90 degree elbo and cut it at a 45% angle and turned as to make sure it exited into the airstream on the drivers side. I've seen a video of Big Phil's car and he addresses this problem quite well by angeling the exhaust out in much the same fashion. Hope this helps. It certainly has helped me...now I can take a shower...jump in the Z and go out in public and not smell like exhaust...or worry about my health anymore.
Pretty useful info. Got any pics of the exhaust? I'm curious to see what it's like.
Also, welcome to hybridz!
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If we keep going with this, can we license it under Creative Commons? I think version 2.0 is my favorite thus far.
Having a complete model of the chassis that's stress-test-able could very well bring the s30 back into the limelight. Recently, I've been seeing a lot of FITs driving around and it saddens me.
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Oh, did I forget to tell you guys that it runs? Hopefully I'll have video to share this weekend.
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as far as i know the "BRE style air dam" IS the little chin spoiler. the other one, the full air dam, is the "xenon" one... that is usually how i have seen them referred to anyway. my guess would be that they are known as "xenon"s in the US because Xenon makes them over here, but probably are based off of an earlier Japanese-made piece? both the 'BRE' and the 'Xenon' come in vented and unvented. and the 'Xenon' comes in the s30 and the s31 styles, the difference of course being the cutouts for the underbumper turn sig/marker lights in the earlier year cars.
I may very well be wrong, but I did feel a bit misled. I'm over it, and just won't buy parts from anyone unwilling to send pictures from now on.
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I too am interested in this project. I've been researching the best way to effectively stiffen my chassis while adding as little excess weight as possible. There's a fair amount of info on it here, but the answer I generally receive is "build Mull's cage" which kind of kills the quick-daily-that-looks-tame image that I'm going for.
If we can get something decent together in a cross-platform format I can run it through my physics testing plugin in Blender, and maybe we can determine the technical "best" chassis modifications possible for the s30. It would also help with designing a killer suspension setup.
Where are we headed with this project? Do we want to make it an open-source model? If so, I'm in all the way.
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Dan5138
Kind of irrelevant... but what type of glue did you use to stick the layers of foam together?
That is a relevent question. I used contact spray glue. You just spray it on both pieces and wait a minute, stick them together and they are locked, no need to wait along time for the glue to dry either.
I don't think I will make side skirts, since I cut out the rear panel for the exhaust exit.
Where are you routing your exhaust? I took a few good looks at the way the frame is shaped, and couldn't come up with a sane place for the exhaust to exit back there. Are you running it inside the cabin? Or routing it back to the axle, then back forward? Or are you just hacking apart the little storage bins behind the seats and running it through there? What's the plan?
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It's weird how the littlest things cause so much effing inconvenience (and pain, I guess). Just the other day, I was lighting a wooden strike-anywhere match, and the sulfer ball decided to slip up under my fingernail and wouldn't leave until it had burned a round chunk of that fingernail off.
I imagine both affect your hybridz-typing-skills equally.
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Unfortunately, the BRE-style (Xenon, if you're looking through the MSA catalog) front air dam I drove two hours to pick up was just a duckbill. Ended up driving home last night empty-handed in the driving rain.
Along the way, a car had been hit and rammed into the median, and was stalled sideways in the middle of 80 (if you don't know 80, you don't know traffic). Helped the girl out of her car, got some cops there, and we even managed to roughhouse the tiburon out of the road eventually.
I don't see myself taking the drive to Stockton again any time soon. Most boring drive ever. Other than the accidents, of course.
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what are you going to do with the stock L24?
You totally slipped under my radar. I'm going to drive it for awhile, at least. I'd rather take my time and do the l28et install properly rather than rush it in just to get the car on the road. Hopefully spark is the only issue I run into while building it up.
I'm quickly falling in love with the simplicity of the l24. The carbs are beautifully simple, the engine has nothing to it, the electronics are almost non-existent... it's just a dream to maintain.
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Time to update! Those of you following my thread on Ratsun.net need not apply over here, this is a big old update that should keep everyone current-ish.
Wheels are on, with old tires. New tires will be mounted when it's street-worthy. This is before settling, but they're 205/60-14 series tires, rather than the stock-sized 195/70-14s. It'll change my speedo and give a slightly shorter final gear, but I can deal with that. We'll see how it sits after it settles.
My front end was a little messed up, so I took it off. I'm picking up a non-vented BRE front air dam this weekend to replace the stock valence and bumper. Do you guys think I should bend the bumper back to straight or just ditch it?
I test-fit the roll bar and one of the seats as well. The roll bar is going to require a little bending to fit properly, and I definitely want to expand on that. I'm just not sure where to go with it, exactly. Run another tube up the floors to the firewall? Add a diagonal crossmember to it? Connect it to the floor behind the seats (right now it just bolts to the wheelwell)? The plan is definitely to weld it in, but not until it accomplishes something.
I replaced the starter, battery, plugs/wires, worn distributor rotor, and coil. I'm fairly certain that the coil is the reason it's not starting right now, since it specifically says "6v, no external resister required" but the manual specifically states that a 12v coil is absolutely required. I don't have a resister on-hand, so I'll have to either source one at Radio Shack or find somewhere I can order one. I also cleaned the carbs.
After that, I believe the only problems left to address are a bent clutch master cylinder rod (I have a 280ZX master cylinder, will that fit my s30 pedals, anyone?) and address a couple minor rust issues...
There's another bad spot on the passenger's dogleg, but they're all going to be relatively straightforward welding jobs, and I'm happy with this so far. Fresh, uncracked dash on its way here in the near future.
Somewhat serious street build
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Well, I placed my seats and harnesses in today, but didn't have time to bolt anything up or get pictures (it was really late). I'll see what I can do about getting some taken and sent to me today, it's starting to take on the appearance of a real car, finally.