Jesse OBrien
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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien
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im curious why you want to put a bike motor in a car?
Im not having a go at all (i love oddball projects) but have you considered that bike motors dont make much torque, which is what you will need to get it moving.
Also, the bike crankcase and gearbox casing are often integral parts, if you shock load the whole thing too much (fast launch, burnouts ect) you risk cracking the casings.
The larger the inital mass of the car, the more likely you are to have those two issues.
the shock loading and cracking risk can also be increased with wider/stickyer tyres.
Goldwing flat-6 motorcycle engine, it even has a driveshaft. Bolt it into anything, makes a moderate amount of torque (125 ft/lbs is plenty for a wee little car) and is fairly light. It also has reverse! Or mate a modern corvette trans, or a 944 trans to the extended shaft and get rid of the goldwing trans altogether.
Fabricate a little one-seater chassis like a miniaturized Super-7 and drop a GL-1800 engine in there (with a turbo, perhaps?) and you'd have one of the best city cars available. Just think, you wouldn't even have to look for parking any more, just find an SUV or truck to park under!
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Got tires covered..
HELP!!! I'm stuck to them! Those things are like fly paper to pavement, man!
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You going to be done with this for the August 8th meet?
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I can't think of what you'd swap it out for, even the s130 master/slave combo is the same size (but they won't bolt up!).
I ordered both on eBay for ~$50, that'd be my suggestion. Are you happy with your pedal travel right now?
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I definitely want to see what you make for rails. Are you going fixed location or sliding?
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The Subaru engine would be the best bang for the buck, but if you can find a 13b-rew and a transaxle transmission, that'd be one of the most badass mr cars I've ever heard of. I did see a 13b swap into a Honda, using a transaxle transmission (although I don't remember which trans) so I think it's entirely do-able.
Personally, I'm a fan of the run-of-the-mill v8-in-the-Z swap. Twin turbos or a blower sweeten that deal for me.
Whatever you go with, make sure it ends up buttoned up in the end.
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Well I like them BECAUSE they're reclining! I like the option of sleeping in my car.
They're also the perfect style for what I envisioned my seats being. I just hope they're comfortable.
I'm 5'6" and 140lbs and they are obscenely comfortable. If I can find an identical set, I'll just put wheels on the bottom and turn it into an office chair. I would like hingeless seats, but these should do just fine for now.
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I got them off Craigslist for $60 with the harnesses. I'm not sure I'll actually use the harnesses; they're supposed to be bolted in rather than wrapped around the rear strut bar.
I'm pretty sure the seats are just from Summit. I'm not a big fan, since they recline (and don't even do so very well) but they do feel pretty secure and only required minimal modifications to the stock seat rails to get them to fit. I suppose I should do a writeup of exactly how they finally bolted up once they're actually in (right now nothing's bolted in, I still have to replace the floors before I add seats).
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So far is really the key... Started moving some stuff into my new house (which has a garage), but I won't be moving the Z for another week or two (depending upon AAA). Nothing exciting has happened, but I did snap a few new pictures of it in its current location today:
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E88 is the most common head on the l24. Surface rust combined with Bondo is a VERY bad sign. The fact that there even is bondo is a sign that there is most likely rust beneath. The floor boards tend to be the first victims to rust, but if yours are already coming apart it's likely that there's more rust elsewhere.
A little white smoke at high rpms PROBABLY means bad head gasket and/or rings. You'll be looking at a rebuild or replacement in the near future. Get some hydraulic fluid, fill the clutch, and make sure it drives straight.
If you're decent with a welder or know someone who is, I'd say go for it. $500 is a good deal for a running car, even if it does need some work. If the frame rails, dog legs, or firewall are rusty enough that you can see through them, it might be a better idea to just walk away from this one. Search for "Mull" on here if you want to see why, he's a perfect example (and a great story to follow).
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Your going to run into a repair cost exceeding the value of the car with SF. Proper repairs will get above the $8500.00 , in a heartbeat, at qualified repair shop. The CSR will look the low ball ADP or CCC value report and tell you its a total . Stand your ground . They will pay for proper repairs and the related costs. You may have to get a supervisor and some one over at SF that understands old cars and restoration repair involved before things seem to straighten out. Remember this line . " Where is the car just like mine . that can be bought for your suggested amount of money ? " They will not be able to produce one.
You have an extremely nice original car. Repairing it correctly means finding the right repair shop. One that understands whats needed , where to find the NOS parts and does the repair correctly.
SF must clear its insureds liability to you. They must make you whole. That means you suffer no loss or gain in the incident, in the strictest sense of the word. If you need an explination of this give me a call . Number is in the link .Theres just too much to write down about how all this should work.
You've just become another reason for me to come back to HBZ regularly. I wish I could offer more advice, but at least know that I feel for you. Everything looks fixable (that rear undertray area will be very difficult though, and make sure your fuel tank and fuel lines were not damaged) and the car looks like it completely deserves a full restoration. Make sure you get lots of pictures, including the underside. If rust develops or minor bends turn into stress fractures, the insurance company is well within their rights to point out that it could have been there before the accident and is therefore not their fault. If you can prove that there was minimal/no damage due to neglect prior to the accident, you'll come out of this a lot more satisfied.
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Just ... wow. Is that the turbo rotary Z or just the regular n/a rotary Z?
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Anything that has to do with electricity has a strong chance of giving you difficulty. Your best bet is to purchase a set of relays and take your time installing them into important circuits (like headlights, starter motor solenoid, fuel pump, and any other major circuits I'm forgetting. Also, get ahold of a camera so you can take some pics to show us
Welcome to hybridz!
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This project ended, I picked up a non-running 240z again. Picture gallery is here:
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He calls it his "shank" and yes, he's always reaching for it.
I'm also getting tired of pushing DR around the yard. He keeps making these engine sounds when we're rolling along he's not using his mouth.
Now I call that sig-worthy.
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Yeah if i was in georgia i would have done lots of stuff more,but my brother is not doing what im telling him even though i have done tons of favors for him
looks like he doesnt want me to fix the Z at all and does the 260z come with the L28??
The 240z comes with the l24, the 260z comes with the l26, and the 280z comes with the l28 (later models came with the l28e).
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Z's are inexpensive and "cool". I see "criminals" in three groups:
- Everyday people who have little respect for the law and get into legal trouble without doing anything "wrong"
- Career criminals who can't afford the car they really want, but buy something cheap and cool
- Career criminals who buy expensive cars
The first two groups generally end up with imports, muscle cars, scrapers, or Zcars. I have a strong feeling that most of hybridz's members are in that first group. Does that make us criminals?
- Everyday people who have little respect for the law and get into legal trouble without doing anything "wrong"
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Monthly installments is a good idea. I spent a fair amount of time as a tech contractor, and that's one way to keep work moving. Make sure he knows that you don't expect everything to be done all of a sudden, you just want consistent progress. If he wants these other jobs that are quicker/easier, he doesn't actually need your business and you should go elsewhere (even if it costs you more). Ask him if he knows anyone who can start work on it immediately, get some quotes, and if all else fails, I would just show up with a trailer unannounced.
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As mentioned before, once the ITB's are mocked up, tuned and dynoed they will move over to my project 810 build.
This is just a progression in phases as I slowly build as funding allows.
Thanks for the support!
I have a lot of respect for the way you're approaching this. I just want to see more
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oh okay i gotta see how the engine is..because my brother told that it looked horrible and it even had little plants growing on top of it lol
That just means that it's a healthy engine
If you need an engine, I'll give you my strong l24 when I swap it for the l28et if you pay for shipping from Cali. I also know someone with a spare l28 in NH who would part with it pretty readily. The l6 is one of the best platforms to work on, and it's dead simple so there are only so many things that'll go wrong. You have wide tolerances of abuse that it'll just shrug right off, and parts are easily/cheaply upgraded to lighter/stronger/faster/newer components. Or you could go with a small block ford/chevy. Want to talk about reliable?
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some people on jalopnik like the dog more than the car.
anyways, it's coming along nicely...
Thanks for the positive words guys.
You don't like the dog more than the car? At least the dog RUNS!
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I just saw that article and immediately thought: "I know that dog!" I say ditch the hood, leave the front end naked, chop-top it, and call it a rat rod.
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she just wants to put on some fender mounted mirrors and headlight covers, and possibly lower it just a little bit, while leaving everything else stock for the time being and just restoring it.
I couldn't agree with her goals more. It's a gorgeous car, it was gorgeous from the factory, and it's a good idea to leave gorgeous as it is. The wrong modifications on the right car are like plastic surgery on a gorgeous girl. Keep it clean and I'll just keep appreciating it.
Also, I totally dig the septum. Just got mine pierced last week. I'd missed that "new piercing smell".
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Why bother reading the first post in the thread?
Sorry mate, was reading at work which sometimes (often) means that I'm skimming, trying to catch the major points of a thread. Now that I've read it, I support it!
Why not?Well, there isn't really a reason not to I suppose. I just don't see a compelling reason to go to all the extra work/expense for ITBs when a decent plenum performs just as well on a forced induction engine. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there's actually a performance gain there.
looks like he doesnt want me to fix the Z at all 
My 240z is a Gas Guzzler
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
You realize the EGR significantly improves mileage at mid-throttle, right? It's very possible that without an EGR your combustion chambers will overheat, and can scorch your rings along with deforming the piston/cylinder wall. It takes a fair amount of heat, but if you're running around that rich all the time and still mashing the throttle I'd say it's possible that you're well over 2500 degrees in the combustion chamber.
I'll assume you're not going to tear down the engine to find out, so double-check that drain plug. If you're dripping liquid from your gas tank drain plug, it could certainly be evaporating through it. Does it constantly drip fluid, or only after fuel pressure builds up? You may actually want to take it in to a smog shop to have your fuel lines pressure-tested (it's part of a standard smog test, and will tell you a lot about your lines).