Jesse OBrien
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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien
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I DD my '73 s30 with a '57 283. It definitely needs a wiring cleanup and the interior (everything, basically) looks like hell. It's also louder than sin with the dual side-dump exhaust, but I'm okay with that.
The only big issue I have right now (now that the alternator works) is that gravity is the only thing holding the gas tank in, and the cap vents into the passenger cab. Once I fix those, driving will be much more pleasant. Regardless, this (and the BART) is what gets me to work every day.
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Can't blame this on fluids. Would the timing chain cause this kind of clacking noise? How hard is the timing chain and gear to replace, and can I use a double roller style?
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Did you buy the car like that with the V8 in it? Who did you get it from?
um... a guy on Craigslist who didn't do the swap...
no good info available. And yes, I bought it as you see it. I've fixed a bunch of wiring, and plan to get the passenger's seatbelt to retract and get the alternator wired up (right now my alternator is a battery charger that plugs into the wall).
my dads 66 has a 283 with 400k on it.I hear the rattle when you let off the throttle. it sounds like something tapping like something shifting to hit things. never heard that sort of sound before though.
I'm going to check my fluids. I used to get the same TYPE of sound (valve knockish sound) but my quieter when my Hondas were low on oil. I'll keep you all posted.
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283's are cool, nothing wrong with that.
The T bolts on the valve covers should be about as tight as you can turn them with your hands, say 10 or 15 ft-#. They make it easy to pull a valve cover, but they are mostly for looks. Overtightening them can cause leaks.
Does it have a hydraulic or solid cam?
jt
I'll tweak them down a little more when I get back from work then, they're a bit wobbly.
I looked around briefly online to see how to tell what kind of cam I have. All I know is that I have camel-hump heads... so, if possible, could I get specifics? Pretty please?
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I just broke down the block code (T0515D) and came up with this motor being a 283 from 1958. I wouldn't be surprised if it were making funny noises, I would too if I were 60 years old!
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Responses greatly appreciated! I won't have a chance to check on these today, but possibly tonight.
It sounds good in the video, I don't hear the noise. If it's coming from the center I would say it's a lifter noise. Do you know if you have a hydraulic or mechanical cam? If mechanical you may need to adjust the valves, with hydraulic you could try tightening the rockers another 1/4 turn.The rattle is only after revving, while it's coming back down to idle. I was told this motor is a 327 from '64, but I really have no idea how to verify that. The only number on the block didn't seem to make any sense on the Chevy Identification sites I visited.
I agree with Mike, valves could be a possibility. If adjusting them doesn't help, look & listen to all the stuff on the front of the motor, water pump, alternator, timing chain, etc. Check for any loose sparkplugs also, they can make a weird noise.jt
I'll check the spark plugs this morning, before I leave.
So far, it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side valve cover, or possibly the exhaust manifold. The valve cover has funky t-topped rods holding it on, so I can't use a torque wrench. How tight should they (realistically) be? Anything I should be looking for if/when I take them off?
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Hey experts!
I'm pretty new to the Domestic scene, so I wasn't sure what to make of this engine noise I have going on. I just bought this last week with the v8 swap so I don't know the history of the engine. I'm honestly pretty worried about this sound, and I'm not afraid to go tearing into the engine to fix it, but this is my daily driver so keeping it on the road is important. Here's a video of the sound (you only hear the clacking after it revs).
Location-wise, it sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold or just underneath. It could be in the heads, but it sounds more centralized. Any ideas would definitely be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
*edit* I totally forgot to link to the video. This should help a bit:
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So, does anybody have or know where I can find a diagram for exactly where each ignition plug is wired?
Also, does anybody have specs on the stock relays?
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That's what I've always wondered about. How hard is it to just pull the keypad off wherever it's mounted and connect the right wires together?
I may have been misleading when I described the keypad. I'm going to be using a keypad like this:
(*edit*:image attached, but linking doesn't seem to work)in the coin tray in the center console (next to the e-brake lever). If I can, I'll run the wiring underneath the metal, just above the transmission. Even if not, I won't leave my wiring diagram in the car (I'm going to have it on my computer and that's about it) so figuring out what's what will be difficult (especially when it's in the center console, hidden away, rather than on the steering column). Also, first priority will be given to standard ignition switch placement, and I'll leave my 'false' wires there, probably wired up to the alarm, possibly wired up more sinisterly (I could wire it up so that the would-be thief becomes the ground for a very strong electrical connection).
Thieves are generally stupid. My Jeep didn't lock at all, but the would-be thieves broke the window to get in anyway.Are you planning on implementing any sort of steering column locking device?
Do you have a stereo of any kind? Aftermarket seats? Anything at all that would-be-thieves would take?
I'm actually going to have quite nice seats, but no stereo whatsoever (I wouldn't be able to hear it over the engine anyway). I may get seat covers or something, because the seats I'm getting are kevlar race seats. However, they're basically going to be welded directly to the floorboards, so stealing them would be quite difficult.
I'm going to leave the stock steering lock on there, and simply have the keypad switch it.
You do raise a valid concern with aftermarket stuff in the car, and I may even put some kind of tracker in/on the seats (gps sender units aren't really expensive, when compared to $750 seats).
Same can be said about the ignition switch.Thats why I'd do the keypad with another momentary kill switch. The keypad "arms" the fuel pump, and the momentary allows the starter or fuel pump to actually turn on, or even the ECU.
Mario
ECU? Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'm running one of the simplest engines out there. It's a 327ci Chevy v8 (I'm pretty sure about that, it could be a 283) with an HEI distributor and a one-wire alternator. Basically, my engine has 5 wires: 2 for starter, one for distributor, one for tach, and one for alternator. If a thief were smart enough and wanted to spend the time, there's absolutely nothing I could do to keep them from starting this car. However, that's where my steering lock comes into play.
As an additional anti-theft device, putting notes in all four tires is generally a good idea. Make sure it has your contact information, identification information (ideally with a photo), and a short note basically saying, "If you service these tires and the car's owner is not the same as the person in these tires, these wheels are stolen. Please contact the police with this information to get these back to their rightful owner!"
The best anti-theft device is making your car unattractive to theives (hard-to-sell parts, anything with an identification number, and more attractive targets close-by). Most theft is opportunistic, meaning that you made it easy for someone to steal something. Most thieves wouldn't even know how to put my car in gear! Would you?
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Good god that's a clean Z! Really, it looks beautiful, especially that simple, pure valve cover. I'd love to see some videos from the autox though.
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now that is sadistic...but fun to think about. it might backfire on you as more people who would be temped to steal (break a window, etc) will be encouraged by seeing the key in there already. fun to think about but why tempt them?
the fingerprint scanner is a bad@$$ idea tho. My ign. switch is no longer exclusive to one key (just about any sharp object you can wedge in there will turn her on...
) and i was trying to think of creative ideas to keep the Z in my possesion. please keep us updated on which you go with and take lots of pics! You can ALWAYS count on pics. To see what's been done so far, you can always visit my page:
ProjectCRX (name pending, if you have any ideas, let me know).
As for windows being broken, I have hood pins holding my rear hatch down (actually only one hood pin, the other fell off while I was driving it home) and it rains seldom enough that I generally just leave the windows down when I walk away. I have nothing worth stealing in the car (and really, the car itself isn't worth stealing), and I always stick to the 'outrun the bear' philosophy.
Basically, the 'outrun the bear' philosophy consists of parking next to a car that is at least twice as attractive as mine. That means '60s mustangs, miatas, civics, etc (cars that are the most likely to be parted out on the black market with no questions asked) commonly see my car next to them.
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By the way, a numbered keypad "kill switch" kit is about $30 when I last priced them out.
It's basically a programmable keypad that triggers a relay.
I guess I'm not that imaginative, as this is exactly what I was going to do in my car, except instead of an ACC switch, I was going to have a battery kill switch with a removable switch.
Mario
Mario
Almost everything that's worth doing has already been done. The Transporter was where I originally got the idea (a few years ago) but dismissed it as being unrealistic. Now, looking at what I've got in the car, not doing something fun and interesting would be unrealistic.
I could also do a fingerprint reader: (http://www.directindustry.com/prod/wison-techology/fingerprint-reader-for-vehicle-applications-38178-323775.html) or an aircraft style switch:
to start the car. Or something new car manufacturers are using now and do a bluetooth identification thing, where you just need to have your key NEAR the ignition, not in it. That only solves some of the problems I have, and doesn't suit the Z very well, IMHO.
I've toyed with using a bluetooth keypad from a computer or an old(ish) cellphone for ignition, but I think I'm going to end up using a fairly generic touchpad or PDA inside the center console slot.
New anti-theft feature!
I might even add a couple wires in the space the ignition would be in, so if someone DOES try to hotwire it, it'll engage an alarm (I know, I'm a bastard... a thief expects to hear the car fire up, and is rewarded with an alarm instead). I'd even leave a key in the ignition, so no wires would need to be cut. Just turn the key, get the alarm. Nobody should be turning the key anyway.
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I just started the very long process of rewiring my entire car. When I got it, the entire fuse box was bypassed, as far as I could tell. The headlights and electric fan were wired into two switches going directly from the battery + while the ignition module was largely bypassed or completely hacked into. Four wires were spliced into the ACC slot (and not all together, they were basically rolled into a ball and electrical taped onto the main ACC wire) of the ignition. I'm tired of this, and a little tired of our reliance on bits of metal called 'keys' as our primary security measure. I'm totally going 'keyless' for my daily driver.
What I'm planning is to have a 2-way ACC switch, a numbered keypad, and the lighter as my primary electrical solutions. Hear me out:
ACC Switch:
I'll wire this up where my choke was (I believe I have electric choke on the Edelbrock carb on my V8), and hopefully get a switch that looks like the original choke. This will connect to the ACC relay, and turn on all my accessories (light circuit, guages, etc).
Numbered Keypad:
Hidden in the drive channel compartment is my replacement for a key. I may end up using a PDA that gets powered up when the ACC switch is triggered, or I'll get a microcontroller-powered keypad. I may do a 3-digit ignition code, or a 5-digit, or a 20-digit (depending on how safe the neighborhood is
). This puts me into RUN mode (HEI distributor gets power).START ENGINE button:
What could possibly be more clean and clear than a button dedicated to start the motor? I don't use my lighter, so I'm going to convert that over to a button (keeping the lighter itself cosmetically identical) that leads to a relay which engages the starter motor. I'll have to figure something out to keep the damned thing from STAYING in (meaning the starter keeps turning) when I press it, but other than that I think it's a great, clean way to start the car.
To start:
- Flip ACC switch
- Slide open the coin space and input key in keypad
- press lighter
This will effectively make the car much more difficult to steal (no wiring on the steering column) and much more interesting all-around.
Potential issues:
I'm a bit worried about a few things here. Namely:
- What are the specs on the ACC relay, and what's actually wired into it?
- Where can I get a good switch that looks like the stock choke lever? Would it be easier to just take any average switch and jbweld the choke lever to the switch arm?
- How is the stock ignition module (the piece you stick the key into) wired up? There are 5 wires, and one definitely goes directly to the starter. What about the other 4? I looked through my Helm's manual and couldn't find a good diagram of how it's broken down.
- Everything that I'm missing right now. Of course I'm not going to be able to forsee everything. Maybe you can help me to prevent running into big problems (like fire)?
- Flip ACC switch
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This is kinda hilarious. I didn't even realize this was the same car, but I'm buying this on Tuesday it seems. That'll be 3 Z's in my driveway and garage. I get a nice fresh 260z rear suspension to replace my too-short springs I currently have. Yay.
Oh, good find, by the way.
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Congrats on the car! I'm wondering where you learned all your knowledge about cars. Did your dad teach you? I'm also 17 and am wondering where other teens learn how to restore cars. My dad doesn't know SQUAT about working on cars, I've just read books/websites, and I'm gonna take some automotive classes at the local college this summer.
We need some pics!
That's about how I originally started with cars. I loved the Honda CRX, bought one, and started learning from there. My father always hated working on cars, so I was pretty much on my own. Luckily, I found a local guru who helped me through the hard times.
I'm really interested in seeing these two projects unfold. Definitely keep us up to date.
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Nice, why can't I live in Cali? Oh yeah, IT"S EXPENSIVE!
It is? Vallejo is nice and cheap.
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Hey everybody!
I just picked up a 327-powered '73 240z and with solid mounts, and the only real complaint I have about it is the placement of the alternator. It's way off to the driver's side and wobbles around a lot while I'm driving. Also, because it's at a funky angle the bearings in it whine when the engine starts revving so I'm looking to replace the bracket asap (like tomorrow morning).
I did a quick search, but didn't find any specific answers, and I'm new to Chevy's (I've upgraded from being a Honda guy to this) so I'd really appreciate any input offered. From the looks of things, the passenger's side, right in front of the head should be a nice clean location, but I'm not sure exactly which bracket will work for that. I looked around on Summit for 15 minutes or so, and nothing really stood out from the rest (I guess not seeing them installed makes it tough to eyeball), but they had a ton of options.
So, suggestion? And thanks in advance!
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I'm starting to feel like I got a killer deal on mine. I paid $2500 for a SBC-swapped 240z with disk brake conversion. The interior is pretty messed up, but it runs (needs a starter) nicely.
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Have you BEEN to the richmond BART? You'd understand. Even people like me who grew up in richmond just go to the del norte station.
Still sounds like a sweet project. My only grip is the CRX is an extremely short wheel base and might be hard to control if not setup well.
I think the F20C would fit as long as you get the engine as far back as posible (probably have to fab a new trans tunnel) and cut out the radiator support and installed a new one putting the radiator a little farther forward.
Do you have dimensions for the F20C? I want to go measure my CRX's engine bay now...
I started taking some measurements on my CRX engine bay, but I don't have any hard numbers on the f20c so I wasn't going to bother. I'm pretty sure the f20c is around 28" long and 26" tall, which really is pushing well past the limits of the CRX engine bay. I'm trying to come up with ways around it, and there is actually a good amount of space to move the radiator forward, but the front of the engine bay is way too short to fit that engine.
It's okay though, I've heard tell that the 13b is a smaller, more compact engine, and I just know they can put out power
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Sweet, I live in richmond, work in fairfield. I'm usually over in vallejo/benicia all the time. The GF lives over there.
I go through Richmond every day! I work in Oakland, so I end up passing by Richmond on my way to the El Cerrito Del Norte BART (yeah, the bus passes right by Richmond; apparantly it's too good for your BART...).
My project has changed considerably (but is no less aggressive). I bought an EF CRX, and the plan is to swap in an f20c (out of an s2000) and convert it to RWD. It's arguably more extreme, but we'll see how it works out. The engine bay may not be long enough (front-back) to fit the motor in, so I may have to scrap that idea and go with a 13b or 13btt instead. I don't know why I have this obsessions with a RWD CRX, but I do. Anyway, without further ado, here's the car as I purchased it:
and here's a link to the gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Jesse.B.OBrien/CRX20
More to come on my site, and if you guys want, I'll update you all directly. Comments on my site are always appreciated!
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Sweet project. Where you at in the bay area? It'd be sweet to check out the progress now and then once you get started.
I'm in Vallejo, but working in Oakland, by Lake Merritt. We're off to a start on my roommate's project, which is getting a Ford 351. Pics located here:
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Don't let my lack of recent response throw you off: this project is in full swing. I've been helping my roommate to find a Z, and we just laid hands on our first project: 1972 240z with a broken window (the only rust is minor, surface rust) and a presumably non-running engine (hasn't been driven in 6 months due to carb misalignment) which will receive a carbed 351, in all likelihood. I'll most likely be documenting that first, then my v12 swap. Mine takes a bit more research before starting, so it makes sense to start with his more "traditional" swap.
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A) Weight. The Jag V-12 alone weighs over 600 pounds, despite the aluminum heads and block. Add a tranny capable of handling the torque and you are looking at 750+ pounds sitting in your engine bay....
The engine is heavy, but if you cut out some of that oil (highly recommended with an oil cooler and a smaller oil pan) you're back down to 550lbs. Tranny weight ends up under the driver. it's low, and supports 50/50 weight distribution directly. It's heavier than an ls1, and is a little farther forward, but I'm at peace with that.
Parts availability. Parts are hard to find, performance parts even more so. When parts are available, they are priced like Porsche parts....Engine parts I need are:
- CBR throttle bodies
- custom exhaust manifold
- reground cams (only need two!)
- stronger valve springs (basically just figure out the rates and order them non-engine-specifically, they're cheap)
There really isn't much "aftermarket" that's going to help me, other than a good clutch (which is just what I'd need for an LS1, for example).
C) Size. The Jag V-12 is absolutely massive. Despite it's size, the displacement is rather small at only 5.3 liters. Yes, there is room for it in the engine bay of a Datsun Z, but just barely. Quite a bit of it will hang over the crossmember, moving the weight distribution forward a bit. You can cut up the fire wall and move it rearwards, but your feet will then have to fit in a space the size of a Tic-Tac container to operate the pedals...
You're right. The Jag is huge. It does push center of gravity slightly farther forward, or I can hack up the firewall a little (which is what most BMW swappers have to do). I'm ok with a little front-biased weight. That's relatively easy to make up for with fiberglass or carbon fiber fenders and hood (which are shockingly heavy in stock configuration).
You do have good arguments, and from a purely logical standpoint I agree. If this were all about logical choices and getting the best engineered car possible, I'd start with a different car altogether. I'd get something with perfect weight distribution, the right engine from the factory, and an uncracked dash. Fortunately for me, I love the Jag v12 (far more than the BMW v12 for reasons unknown other than those who practice dark magic).
All arguments aside, I really do need to know the spline count on the engine, so I can figure out exactly what transmission I can fit on it. I'm fairly sure that the Viper t56 will fit, but input shaft diameter/length/spline-count are all factors that I can't confirm. I could really use some help before I start gathering parts (because I want to make sure they're the right parts ahead of time).
- CBR throttle bodies
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Well, wow. I certainly didn't expect this much action so quickly. I'll take the responses that were directed at me on a first-come, first-serve basis.
www.wilcap.comThey have alot of different bellhousings and adapters, as well as custom made set-ups.
Good luck.
They look pretty good, I'll call them on Monday to see what their prices are.
I have not looked at all of your research, but my own, extensive first-hand experience with the T5 is this: I've put better than 800hp and 650ft/lb of torque through a Stock t5 with narry a problem. I don't know the T56 very well yet, but it will be my choice behind my LS1, which will beat the pants off the V12 in both torque and HP most days of the week. I have friends who've used their T56's behind 6 and 700 hp motors regularly.I see a lot of these stories, where stock parts never cause a problem in extreme circumstances. It's especially common in the Honda world, where many little 1.6l motors are forced to take "madd psi" (high cfm through a t3/t4 hybrid turbo, generally) and never explode. While I'm sure that there's a good chance the t5 would be fine, I'd rather go with the t56, if only for that 6th gear that I've always longed for.
As far as an LS1 beating the pants off a 5.3l v12, we'll just have to see. The 5.3l is heavier no matter what configuration you set up with, but revs higher (with proper flow, it supports 8800rpm safely) and I believe that it has more streetable potential. The whole purpose of this car is to make it fun to drive on sunny days.
Are you just going to be throwing in a stock 5.3? Or are you going to be making insane power out of it? What year of the 5.3 are you using? I could see the concern running a T-5 behind it...but I would like to see the math you used to determine that it would grenade a t-56 which was put behind a motor that put out more power/torque than the v12 did. There's a shop in sacramento that deals mostly with jags and have had quite a few v12 manual trannies in the past, I'll see if they are still in business and get you their name if interested...imho you'd be better off with a T-56I've sourced a few different 5.3s, and haven't decided on a particular year, but it looks like the '81-'93 HE version (12.5:1 compression, terrible flow in the head) and adding on a custom ITB setup and a proper flowing exhaust, along with a pair of reground cams and port work (if it's even required).
Since the starting dyno chart looks nice and smooth and relatively powerful (~350hp and 400ft/lbs tq) I'll most likely just do bolt-ons (intake/exhaust/valvetrain/cams/megasquirt) and be happy as long as nothing breaks. Overall, it's not the numbers that matter, it's how good you feel when it's done. At least this way, I'm doing something that's at least a little off the beaten path.
(*edit*:image attached, but linking doesn't seem to work)
) and i was trying to think of creative ideas to keep the Z in my possesion. please keep us updated on which you go with and take lots of pics! 
). This puts me into RUN mode (HEI distributor gets power).
Parts availability. Parts are hard to find, performance parts even more so. When parts are available, they are priced like Porsche parts....
gas tank sealer
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Where did you get your tank done? I work in Oakland (live in Vallejo) and I really don't know the area very well, but I'd like to find a few good shops for stuff like this.