Jesse OBrien
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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien
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I really want to use as many stock gauges as possible, and I'm going to see about mending my current dash. That might end up needing to be ditched, but we'll see how it goes.
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Good start of a plan, as I see it. However, in previous threads I had seen concern from some of the experienced members about using circuit breakers in place of fuses.
If they are popping regularly, something is wrong with your components or wiring design. I'm about to embark on some rewiring of my own, and according to my research, fuses are in order.
If your wiring is set up properly, there isn't a difference between fuses and circuit breakers. I'm looking at circuit breakers as a more reasonable solution for future diagnostic purposes only. Costs won't be vastly different, and as long as the driver (me) is intelligent to NOT immediately and repeatedly flip the circuit breakers if they blow, there should be no more fire hazard than with fuses (correct me if I'm wrong, electrical engineers).
I'm planning (at this point) on spending some time perusing the junkyards for a suitable fuse/power distribution/relay block for the main harness. Last trip, I saw a nice setup in a mid nineties Mercury station wagon. Plenty of circuits, and spots for 5-6 relays (IIRC, Pics in a week or two), and a nifty clean looking OEM plastic cover for the whole shebang.
In addition, I'll be running my driving lights and electric fan from a separate maxi-fuse distribution block off the alternator feed (CS 144, thanks KTM!). The fuse block is available at your local Wal-Mart for 10 bucks and comes with 2x40A maxi fuses. Nearby, you should be able to find a kit with 50 and 100A fuses for like 4-5 bucks (Check the car stereo area for this stuff).
While I like the stock look, I don't like the excess. Trying to figure out what's in use and what's dormant from a different fusebox is just unnecessary. I like my electrical to be brought down to the bare minimum.
I feel strongly that a properly engineered setup should rarely blow fuses, and thus breakers are at best a waste of money, but more likely, a potential fire hazard.
That being said, good luck and keep us posted!
I agree, but I hate having fuses rattling around in the glove box "just in case". Circuit breakers are easy and quick to flip, almost like having a can of fix-a-flat instead of a spare tire (fix-a-flat is lighter and more minimalistic, and for all intensive purposes serves the same need as a spare tire).
Having said that, here's my running list of circuits, organized by switches:
- electrical components (all on their own separate circuit)
- horn button
- windshield wipers switch + relay (for speeds and intermittent, donor wiper motors to be decided)
- choke (electric edlebrock choke)
- *possibly* alarm system (I'm not convinced that alarms actually accomplish anything. I'm considering adding a pda with a camera and wireless, and any time someone sits in the driver's seat it takes a picture and attempts to email all pictures to me whenever wireless internet is present. That would give me a picture of anyone who stole or attempted to steal my car, as well as a last known location. Then I can break out the baseball bat and go meet up with them.)
- ignition
- keypad - numbered keypad which, upon successful entry of the ignition code, provides power to the following:
- distributor
- starter motor button(pushbutton switch)
- alternator
- cooling fans
- gauges
- tach
- speedometer
- oil pressure
- coolant temperature
- fuel level
- tach
- distributor
- lights - separate circuit from the main 'running' circuit. (I'm going to have to research running this on the alternator, I liked that idea, essdeezee)
- directionals (plus hazard toggle)
- headlights
- brake lights
- reverse lights
- gauge lights
- *possibly* interior lights (again, I enjoy minimalistic)
- trunk
- engine
- glovebox
- dome
- trunk
- directionals (plus hazard toggle)
- keypad - numbered keypad which, upon successful entry of the ignition code, provides power to the following:
- horn button
This is turning out to be a lot like programming. I'll be running my wiring opposite my fuel lines (fuel on driver's side, wiring on passenger's side) with a kick box on the passenger's side with the circuit breakers in it (where a/c would normally go). Someday I may add in some sort of media capabilities to this car, but for now the growl of a v8 is enough to keep a grin on my face all day long.
As far as dealers go, I've been looking at http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/InstallationSupply/CircuitBreakers.html with high hopes. They appear to have a wide selection of gear that is directly applicable to my project.
- electrical components (all on their own separate circuit)
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(explanation: Fox News has fewer real-world facts than the Daily Show)
Why you gotta?!!
I WILL RESIST COMMENT!!!! Ugh.
I was really impressed with your fortitude to resolve this problem.
Now to throw out a bleaten political statement out just crushes the rules badly.
Your experience has given the search engine more information that it did not have before. ( this is a rare thing)
Retract or restate your last comments please. This is asked with great overall concern.
This post will be reflective of the changed as well.
Hahaa, please understand that having my car back in my garage has granted me a sense of humor again, and I'm going to take advantage of it (at anybody's expense). So, while I do chuckle when I hear far-reaching phrases on Fox News that don't accurately deliver the news but definitely make the news more interesting, that statement was meant as a joke.
As far as fortitude goes, everything should be approached with two basic rules:
- Do not attempt anything you can not or will not follow through with for as long (or as hard) as it takes.
- Follow through as far as you are able on everything you attempt.
If that's all it takes to impress people, then there should be a lot more finished projects out there!
- Do not attempt anything you can not or will not follow through with for as long (or as hard) as it takes.
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As some of you may already know, my wiring in my 240z is a complete mess. Nothing is bundled together correctly, opposite ends of the same wire aren't labeled the same more often than not, no fuse box existed when I got the car, and some of the wiring is just flat out missing. I've been planning a complete rewire of the car, and researched:
- modifying the wiring I have now, correcting problems as I come across them
- painless wiring kits
- complete rewire from the ground up
I've decided upon a complete rewire for a number of reasons:
- I can clean up the appearance of the wiring greatly, tucking and bundling wires as I need to
- I end up with a detailed wiring diagram that I'm 100% certain is accurate
- I can use aviation circuit breakers in place of fuses
I just drew up a basic wiring diagram that I plan to use for the installation and purchase of wires (I'll have to get circuit breakers depending upon the amperage needs of each individual component, which I haven't researched yet.
I also need a new front fairing/cowling/valance, so I'll be wiring up my jdm corner lights that came with the car, and fabricating a brake light setup. I'll post the wiring diagram as soon as it's complete (and I can get a picture of it). It's very basic, since my sbc is so simplistic (starter motor, alternator, single-wire distributor, and electric choke is all it needs).
Does anybody have any recommendations for a reputable aircraft parts dealer (or anywhere I can get good switched circuit breakers) and what relays are actually necessary for the 240z?
- modifying the wiring I have now, correcting problems as I come across them
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Your ending actually put a grin on my face
Congratz!
All part of why we're all here. If it were just facts and no entertainment, we'd all end up watching Fox News just to make up for it all.
(explanation: Fox News has fewer real-world facts than the Daily Show)
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Working on it. We'll see how things turn out, but I'm not sure I'll be at liberty to discuss what happens. If I don't post again, assume there was good news and the PD made an honest effort to protect and serve, and not rape people.
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So, we're all resolved, my car is back in my garage, and I'm getting ready for a hefty teardown then rebuild. I'm just torn as to how deeply to delve into the teardown. I'll start up a new thread for that.
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Celica Fastback:
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If you've got the money, fight it, otherwise move on. Do you have access to a garage for storage?
It's sitting inside my new garage, safely locked and alarmed. Getting my new engine on Friday since my work schedule didn't fit around the engine delivery time as nicely as it could.
Thanks for all the support everyone. Let me reiterate that this matter is completely closed. If I hadn't been compensated, I would be taking this to court. It's important that you research what your rights are if you feel like you've been taken advantage of or wronged, and make sure you weren't actually the one at fault. If another party was in fact at fault, hope that they have the sense to make things right. Otherwise, fight them with everything you have. I don't believe in just wasting energy left and right because you aren't willing to fight for what's yours. I'd rather fight and lose than to give up and know i was right.
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Local newspapers hold a lot of sway, apparently. I just picked up a new motor, I'm pretty excited about that. If anybody wants to see what I got, you'll see an article about it on my site this week.
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I spoke with the Chief's assistant, and consider this matter completely resolved.
I get my car back on Monday (they can't release anything over the weekend) and am legally bound to not disclose any aspect of the settlement reached.
But I will say this: I came out on top.
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Sorry I've left you guys waiting so long. The only reason I haven't updated is because I'm waiting for a solid answer from SOMEBODY as to what needs to be done. The PD has told me twice now that I need to pay the tow company before they can release it, and the tow company is telling me to go to the PD first.
Yesterday, I kind of threw the nice lady from the tow company against the wall (verbally) and demanded some kind of answer. I was told I'd get a call back by noon today...
It's 6:36 now, as I write this. I'm more than a little pissed off. Again, I'll keep you all updated.
Anybody know if AAA will tow from the impound lot?
I'm moving down to San Leandro on the first of July, I'm ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ sick of this town's inconsistencies (public transit rates/hours of operation, police coverage, laws that get enforced, gang moods, etc). It sucks, and there's no payoff. I'll get pictures of the new place asap, and I'll be bringing my CRX down there as well.
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Here on http://municipalcodes.lexisnexis.com/codes/vallejo/ I found the following:
8.24.010 Prohibited or restricted in certain places--Exceptions.A person shall not stop, stand, or park a vehicle:
A. Where an official traffic control device indicates that it is prohibited;
B. Except a licensed taxicab, in a taxicab stand;
C. Except a passenger bus or licensed jitney in a bus stop zone;
D. On any street, alley or parkway for the principal purpose of:
1. Washing, greasing or repairing such vehicle, except repairs necessitated by an emergency;
E. On any off-street public property unless a traffic control device indicates that such action is permitted, and then only in accordance with directions of such traffic control device;
F. Except as otherwise provided herein, in any red zone;
G. In any loading zone, except while in the process of loading or unloading passengers or materials;
8.26.030 Police powers.
A police officer is empowered to remove or cause to be removed to the nearest available public or private garage or other place of safety, or to a garage designated or maintained by the city, any vehicle, boat, trailer, or motor-driven cycle, that is stopped, standing, or parked on a municipal off-street parking lot for a period of time in excess of twenty-four hours without having prominently affixed thereto in the manner and location prescribed, a special permit issued by the collections and permits division of the finance department of the city, when authorized signs are in place giving notice thereof. Upon any such removal, the provisions of Article 3 (Procedure to Remove and Store Vehicles), Chapter 10, Division 11 (Sections 22850-22856) of the Vehicle Code of the state of California shall apply. (Ord. 157 N.C.(2d) § 5 (part), 1971: Ord. 32 N.C.(2d) § 18.03, 1973.)
I might just have a leg to stand on with this.
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Remember, Carfax doesn't work with S30's. IIRC, only cars with a 17 digit VIN will work.
I wasn't aware of that.
... you can see that I just kinda dove in when I bought my Z now, can't you? I've been exposed!
Here is another question... When you guys repair rust do you have your own mig welder and die grinder, other set ups, or have somebody more experienced do it. I think learning to use a mig welder would be very useful in many cases and would I probably like to go and take some classes?Well, it depends on how dirty you want to get. Surface rust can generally be reparied by sandblasting (if you don't mind the mess) the surface, then a skim coat of fiberglass, a quick sanding, and touch-up paint.
If you plan to do any sort of heavy modification (like putting a V8 in your datsun) I'd definitely suggest getting very familiar with a welder. Once you've built up some confidence, you might even feel up to fabricating your own motor mounts, radiator brackets, transmission mounts, seat rails, frame supports, and everything else that comes up where you'd think to yourself "I wonder where I can get a bracket for that..."
In the end, I think learning to weld is something you should absolutely take advantage of if you have the opportunity.
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I just want to take a quick moment to point out that I do not in any way have a problem with Police Officers in general. I do feel that a bad day for an Officer is a bad day for someone else, but without them I wouldn't be caught walking down the street without a gun. I was even considering becoming a volunteer for the PD until my job began to eat up all of my time.
I still need to attain a copy of the Vallejo Towing Policy. If it states that everything that was done was legal, it's time to revisit that policy. If it doesn't (or even better, argues against my situation), I think I stand a chance at getting partial or full restitution. I just need to make sure I keep my recipts when I get the car back.
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I have been in this situation. My fuel pump stopped working, among some other things, and at the time my car was at the bottom of a hill in our neighborhood. It was parked on the side of the street which has no houses bordering it, but was still notified that it needed to be moved within 24 hours of when it was parked, otherwise it would be towed. (someone complained). I just pushed it to the other side of the street, and that legally gave me another 24 hours. I ended up getting a tow back across town to our garage.
I'm pretty sure they have to make sure that you got the notice, and that it has been more than 24 hours. I would fight this. But don't lose your car either.
Whatever course I go with, I have to get my car tomorrow. I'll decide on the legal matters after I have it and i've cooled off a little. I don't want to go into it with the wrong intentions.
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I understand and sorry but I would not waste your time or money on a lawyer. Fight what? In the end city hall will squash you and your old car like bug. I know it's unfair. Your only offensive choice, be more savy about parking and appearing "non-op".
So you don't believe that we have control over how we are governed?
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With the starter, alternator, battery and hood removed, the definition of "non-op" vehicle comes solidly into play, I would think, so all that remains is the letter of the law. You should be able to research the local ordanances without retaining a lawyer. Regardless, if you are found to be at fault or your car was towed prematurely you can bet the towing company is protected in the actions they have taken. Their first order of business is to cover their own a$$. When you show up at the tow yard with the intention of picking up your vehicle, all they care about is getting their money and the car is authorized to be released. They don't care about your schedule and when it is convenient for you to pick up your car or who is at fault for it being in their yard. It's simple. You show up during their posted regular hours of operation, pay all related fees, they release your car. Can you imagine how many phone calls they must get from irate people who mistakenly think the tow yard can play judge & jury? They are mearly contracted for services provided, in this case the PD.
You wanted an unbiased opinion. Pay the fine, let it go. It's a bummer, live & learn. An understanding police officer might have reacted differently if a note was left on the vehicle explaining your plight.
There's no disputing that the car was 'non op', but it wasn't registered as 'non op', which I think should still be legal to park on the street (plenty of people get away with it, anyway). My big complaints come from the fact that by the time I could take action, I've already been charged for almost $300 in storage fees, and was given no option to do otherwise, since nobody informed me of where the car was, and I could not get an answer out of the PD (seems awfully suspect to me).
I really appreciate the input, and see where you're coming from.
ok listen up i used to drive a tow truck so here me out . sometime the owner of the company would see a car he would like to have and as a tow truck owner you become friends with alot of cops. so he would make a call get the paper work done up in about 15 minutes and off we were sent to get this car in the hopes that the person could not pay or would not pay and he would then procees for the paper work and wala the car is his. worse case was the person came and paid for it and no lose due to the fact he got storage and tow fees. my advise is this go pay for it on moday cause you are only racking up fees and if you do get a lawer you will get the fees back later and you will still have you car. here in louisiana you can fill for the titles in 3 day from time it is in storage now it takes 3 months to get them. GO GET YOUR CAR AND THEN FIGHT IT.I'm definitely picking up the car on Monday, and I'm trying pretty hard not to point any fingers at shifty behavior, as I don't know the specifics of the situation. I'm going to assume they were pressed for time or something to that effect.
I believe in Spokane Wa. you can not park you car for no more than 24hrs on public right away. I do believe there is notice given before towing.That's one of my biggest complaints. If I don't know I've done something wrong, how am I to fix it? Some sort of notice/warning/citation/ticket would have gone a long way for me.
Bottom line
I would have appreciated some sort of contact and a chance to move my car before it was towed. I think this is a clear-cut case of overzealous towing (disagree all you like, there were many options open to this Officer, and he chose the most extreme).
Disregarding the lack of contact beforehand, wouldn't it make sense to inform someone that their car has been towed? Leaving a note on my door or a message on my voicemail would have allowed me to pick up the car on the same day. I would still be upset, but wouldn't feel as taken advantage as I do now.
If not, at least send me a mail notice so that I can act on it immediately, not on Saturday when the PD is closed (and impounded cars cannot be released). Also, I'd really appreciate if the tow company would reply to me, and actually give me some means to pay them and get the matter resolved. Refusing my request to speak to someone who can help me, and wasting my time by not calling me back does not help the situation.
On top of this, Vallejo has a shooting almost every week. The crime rates have steadily increased over the past few years and most of the "business district" has closed down (antique shops remain, but ~75% of the buildings are empty). And while I'm offer a rock or an ounce every time I go to/from the bus stop, the PD is still centered on immediately addressing the car that looks like it doesn't run right now. I'm disgusted.
Thanks for all the input so far, guys! I can't tell you how much it helps to hear other peoples' takes.
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/705726762.html lol pretty cool
I hate to say it, but the 305 was a craptastical engine. It had all sorts of non-interchangeable parts with the other small block chevys. Try to get a 283, 327, 350, 383, or 400 (the 327 and 350 being my personal favorites).
My suggestion would be something more like this:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/711693760.html if it's not too far from you.
You'll need to purchase interior pieces, and maybe carpets, along with a hood and headlights (none of these things are hard to find, but can be expensive if you're looking for MINT parts). You'll need to make motor mounts (or have a local welding shop make them for you from cardboard cutouts you make). If possible, I'd say check the car out and make sure it isn't rusted through the body panels anywhere. The LS1 is an amazing engine (technically much better than the other SBC engines I've mentioned) and the way it's set up now you could decide whether you wanted the old-school carbed intake manifold or a fresh new fuel injected setup. In any event, most of the necessary parts are there, but you guys would have to track down the little bits that aren't and put it all together.
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It all started out when me and my dad wanted to work on a car when I would turn 15. Then it was just an idea and within the last 2 years we have agreed to do so with me turning 15 in a month. Recently we both are about 80% commited to an early 70's 240z.I have been an avid car lover my whole life and this is a big step up from just watching my dad and friends work on cars (their into the whole honda thing but it does not really appeal to me). Along with this possible project are some questions I would have....
Congratulations! I think this is a great way to get to hang out with your dad, and I think a 240z would be an excellent idea for a first car.
~Where I live their is a large amount of car theft ( mostly hondas and acuras but overall a large amount of cars) and with this being an older car I wanted to know if a new system if there is one at all should be installed?
~Does the stock engine put up some fairly decent numbers that I could have fun with or should we try to go along an educational roller coaster with a swap?
~Are parts and body panels easy acess or require scavenging?
~ Finally what should I look for and avoid in these models?
Thanks a lot, any info is helpful
Most body parts are relatively easy to get ahold of with a little work. Fenders tend to be the most commonly sought after, as they tend to rust through (especially on the passenger's side, where the battery tray is... watch for that).
Rocker panels (the metal that runs along the bottom of the door jamb and extends under the car) is very often rusted out. Keep an eye out for it.
If you're planning to use the stock 2.4l l6 from the 240z, your performance is going to be limited to around 150-175hp (give or take). Unless you want to go hog wild and rebuild it from the ground up, the old iron blocks are sturdy and reliable (with the right carbs) but not track monsters. If you're planning to SCCA, keeping the stock motor would be my suggestion; it allows you to stay in a competitive class.
If you're looking into making real power and having a monster, a small-block chevy v8 can be shoehorned in for around $1000 or so. It's becoming a common swap, and you'll find lots of info here. A bit less common (and a bit more expensive) is swapping a Ford v8, but if you're on a fairly strict budget the stock motor or a chevy is probably the way to go.
Focus on getting a straight body with a dash that isn't cracked (you almost definitely won't find one, but try anyway), and you should be good to go. I don't know how adept either of you are with mechanics, but getting something that already runs and drives is a good idea if you can afford it. If either of you have ever rebuilt an engine, you may want to tackle a bigger project (like buying a non-running car).
As far as price, I'm currently selling my 260z that doesn't run (but is 90% complete) for $200 this weekend. That's quite a bit under average; here in Cali I generally see decent, running Z's for around $1500-$2500. Keep your eyes peeled, and make full use of Carfax to make sure it hasn't been in any accidents that people aren't telling you about. If you come up with any other questions, we're always here for you!
Oh, and one more thing... get a few good manuals before you start.
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I like the idea, but tuning that correctly for the short/narrow s30 might be a trick. Also, it kinda kills the daily driveability of the car, unless I'm missing something.
... but yes, I do believe that with a bit of math based on how much power you're putting down and a good guess at how much weight is being transferred by rotation, you could maximize your traction without swapping to an LSD.
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Uploading the 'old' pics for reference.
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Crap---that doesn't look good at all. Almost looks like water got in there and wreaked havoc in there. Yet, the cylinder walls are smooth, not pitted at all? I think it will certainly need a honing at the very least. I'm sure one of the more experienced will chime in. I have not seen the same 'rust' issue like that before...
Davy, admittedly, it did look pretty nasty. However, it didn't turn out too bad. It doesn't appear to have any rust on it, because once I let them soak all that buildup came off and the cylinder walls on the bad cylinders are just as smooth as the other cylinder walls. Very happy. I also did a little work on my heads to clean up the valves, but they look like they're a wash anyway. Pictures of the cylinders attached (since I can't link to picasaweb directly). I now have the engine hand cranking about 5 degrees or so easily. The more gunk that gets worked out by soaking, the more it's going to free up. Then I should be able to get the crankshaft out and send the block out to get honed or bored if necessary.
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It took me awhile to get around to it, but I got some pictures of a few of the local cars that I like. Bear in mind, this was just a walk around a few blocks and getting pictures of whatever happened to be around. I didn't go out looking at all.
*edit* WTF, hybridz isn't allowing me to link images from picasaweb. I've uploaded them as attachments, but can't link to them using img tags.
Anybody who's interested can check out the local cars I've snapped here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Jesse.B.OBrien/LocalCars
Stock speedometer with a sbc
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Hey everybody, I haven't had a working speedometer since I bought my Z, and was wondering if there's a way to get the stock speedo working with a sbc (I have a turbo400, if that changes anything). Has anyone tried it or researched it?