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Jesse OBrien

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Posts posted by Jesse OBrien

  1. Budget for the engine is going to be income / 4 - wheels, so assuming I spend around $2k on steel wheels and nice wide tires, I'll have around $3k to spend on the engine. I figure $3k gives me some wiggle room and I can do a moderate N/A build with that, assuming I can reuse as many parts as possible.

     

    Correct me if I'm off on that. I can always extend the project by a few months to increase the overall budget but I'd really like to get this back on the road before our short rainy season begins.

     

    All this is coming out of my fund that's set aside for it, so I'm hoping to just order all the parts I need at once late next month (when I've nailed down which route to go) and go to town for a few weekends installing stuff.

     

    For the time being, my ground-up rewiring project and body work are taking priority, along with trying to find a t56 that isn't beat to hell that is a reasonable price. Does $3k sound reasonable?

  2. hehe...language filter taking a nap?

     

    lol funny

     

    Whoop. Apparently it is. Edited that out, since it really wasn't necessary anyway.

     

    There are good cops and bad cops just like everywhere else. I have met both.

     

    I've definitely met more upstanding cops than the few pricks that tend to stand out in my memory more than anything. A bad cop does make you feel violated, powerless, and frustrated pretty quickly though.

     

    A good cop makes you feel like an idiot for what you did, since you know (and knew) that it was wrong. :icon50:

  3. Having driven trucks for a short time, its always a good thing to move left one lane when approaching a vehicle on the shoulder. You just never know what's going to pop out. I also give truckers room to move left if I'm near them when they approach a vehicle on the shoulder.

     

    FYI... here in California, the CHP officers approach a car from the passenger side.

     

    I always give truckers room in general. Either they're crazy *edit* people who're suffering from severe road rage or exhaustion and they'll run you right off the road...

     

    or they're not, and I'd feel bad for putting them in a stressful situation with a little car right next to them (that, in all likelihood, they don't even see).

  4. why a Z for a daily driver? if i was gonna have a daily car that was sporty, why not something a little bigger and more comfortable? if its a daily driver the weight shouldnt be a big deal, i thought about buying another mk3 supra, its big, comfortable, quick enough to take down some 5.0's. new enough to get parts fairly easy, and a targa roof...

     

    because the less weight you're hauling around, the better your gas mileage (all other things being equal). It also means you're required to produce less power to go just as fast, which allows for you to increase gas mileage once again. In a daily driver, mileage + driveability > all.

  5. You know, I hadn't heard of that law before. To be honest, I'm not even sure it existed in either NH or MA, but there really aren't enough multi-lane roads out there to make it worthwhile or common knowledge IMHO.

     

    I do get a certain sense of satisfaction seeing a person driving their beloved vehicle paying more attention to their surroundings than other people, especially when it surprises me (let's say a riced out civic that's being driven like a mechanic lovingly built it, not like it was stolen).

     

    As much as certain police officers have really gotten under my skin lately (by acting wrongfully, from my opinionated standpoint) I'm really happy to have you guys around and have no problems with giving respect, whether it's a wave at a stop light or plenty of room when you're enforcing laws by pulling someone over. Please remember that you define a location more than anybody else, though.

     

    I'm happy to live anywhere that the cops treat people fairly, like people. I've lived in too many places where they seem to be against the common population for no solid reason (Vallejo, CA for instance). It makes me sad.

  6. All right, since I'm really not sure what I've got (and haven't looked up the stamps yet... I'll get to that tonight) I'm just going to throw up some pictures, and maybe you knowledgeable folks can help me out a bit. Please bear with my inexperience, I'm doing my best to pick up all the info you guys are throwing out, and think I'm doing a decent job at it but I just wanted to see what else I can get out of you for advice.

     

    Here's the intake manifold. I'm not sure how to differentiate the RPM from the standard Performer (or whatever other models there were). It definitely says Edelbrock Performer on it, though.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=8287&d=1217295756

     

    Here are the two carbs I have, from the bottom. The left is the edelbrock that came on the 283 (probably in a kit with the intake manifold, is my assumption) and the right is the Rochester that came with the 350 (stock, I'm assuming). I don't know what kind of power handling they're going to be good for (or what kind of fuel economy) but it looks like the Rochester could be worth keeping.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=8288&d=1217295771

    intake_thumb.jpg

    carbs_thumb.jpg

  7. I did a little looking around on Summit, and have come up with the following:

    I could also just rebuild the engine and not build it up, but that's considerably less fun. I've been toying with a few different ideas, but I'm interested to know what you guys would suggest.

  8. Thanks for all the extra reading, guys. At this point I'm planning to rebuild the heads from the ground-up before slapping them on the 350, and I had been looking at Comp cams already.

     

    @Grumpyvette:

     

    I didn't want to give you the impression that my whole goal was to get a lopey idle. That was meant as a target goal, done correctly. I'm really just hoping to make some respectable power without putting gobs and gobs of work into this engine, and from what you've explained, that sounds completely doable.

  9. Ok, I just did a BUNCH of reading (not just the article you linked to, but all the questions that stemmed from that).

     

    You've basically confirmed what I figured to be true. The lope just isn't realistic unless I go hardcore build. However, I did a little math, and based on the heads I'm using (64cc), I should be running around 11:1 compression, depending on the head gasket I decide on. That should put me in the lopey area.

     

    As far as intake and exhaust go, I don't see much restriction there at all. I have the edelbrock performer intake mani, and what amounts to open headers (dual 4.5" side-dumps), so my plan is essentially to let the engine breathe as nicely as the bottom end will allow. That probably means carb rebuild (possibly rejet), valvetrain rebuild/upgrade, and new cam. I was hoping that'd get the scary lope I've only seen in firebirds and camaros (and sometimes even mustangs around here) but that's starting to sound a little unrealistic for a daily driver.

     

    In any event, thank you very very much for the info, I'll be digging around the net looking for a few more reviews and re-reading the Goodwrench build a few more times.

  10. I know this is kind of a newbie question, but bear with me. I'm in the market for a new cam for my 350 in my daily. It's probably going to see more time on the track than on the street, but I want to keep it driveable while improving power and getting that scary lopey idle that always gets me off.

     

    I'm planning on using a rochester carb that came off my 350ci, and I honestly don't know what cfm it's rated for.

     

    Now, my question then becomes:

    • What is a reasonable lift and duration for stock fuelie (camel-hump) heads?
    • Is it necessary to upgrade the valvetrain for a cam upgrade, or only for serious builds?
    • At what point will I need to upgrade my fuel system from the mechanical pump I'm currently using?
    • Is there anything I'm missing?

    Now, I did search and found a bunch of info, but very very little of it was geared toward the sbc specifically. What have you guys used for your builds? How successful did it turn out?

     

    Any info you guys can offer with all your collective experience would be greatly appreciated, and any questions that I should be asking myself would also be put to immediate use. Thanks in advance!

  11. Wow, you guys got that stirred up? Nobody has a problem with discs or drums here. Basically, both work equally well for the street. Discs are more cosmetically appealing, and require less work per brake job than drums do. Drums (generally) require less regular maintenance.

     

    I'm sure your brakes were neglected, just as mine were. I totally hear you on the obscene 4.5" dual side-dump exhaust. It was there when I bought the car, and made me chuckle. The really funny part is that I'm still planning to do dual side-dumps, but using 1l motorcycle cans. Still kind of silly, but we're all allowed to do silly things.

     

    Being aware that a certain upgrade doesn't make a whole lot of sense but doing it anyway is what we're all about though, isn't it? So by all means, kick ass with discs (coincidentally, I have rear discs too... that doesn't make them a BETTER idea than drums, though).

  12. hey I'm not sure if it would work for your application but I think it might. You should be able to get an electronic speed sensor to fit the tranny and then go here http://www.abbott-tach.com/era.htm for an electronic ratio adapter (you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere). Most speed sensors I know of use a pulse for a signal wheather it be digital or analog speedo and the ERA can convert your signal from say 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution to say 30 or whatever your correction factor may be. They have a support line that will be able to get you in the ballpark for you speed sensor / speedo combo. They have charts that tell them how many pulses your stock unit sends out vs. the th350 sensor. Hope that helps!

     

    I really like that option. I might actually be able to make one of those myself. First though, I need to figure out what's still holding the dashboard on. I swear I removed everything that had been holding it. Looks like there's something attaching it to the steering column, but I don't want to end up pulling the steering column, just the dash.

  13. I ended up not getting the engine (it was already sold when I showed up) but the seller felt bad and has a friend who owns a wrecking yard that he's going to put me in contact with on Monday.

     

    I believe that motor is a LO5.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Small-Block_engine#L05

    It is still a Gen I, not II. I can't imagine why it would not work with a SBC Edelbrock manifold. What CFM / model is that carb of yours? Beyond a new camshaft, what else are you willing to do?

     

    I'm not entirely sure, but I think this carb is a 500cfm. I have some pictures of the specific model here somewhere, I'll try to dig them up.

     

    Ah carb, not car, that makes more sense. I think you're right, it's just four injectors over a carb style throttle-body. Don't worry about the efi stuff, unless it's free then take it and resell it. If you want to do ITB you will have to fabricate your own efi setup anyway and I doubt that ECU will be able to control it.The motor is a GenI, not GenII. GenII was the LT1/LT4/L99. Believe it or not GenI, GenII, and GenIII motors were all produced and put in GM vehicles in 1997. Your motor will most likely be a 2 bolt main and it will definitely be an iron block.Funny thing about the slang terms we have been using. In your first post you said you had a blown 283, which I was thinking you meant a 283 with a supercharger, but now I'm guessing you mean it's blown up?

     

    Yeah, it really helps when I use the right words and don't randomly drop letters. The 283 was pretty much destroyed, not supercharged, so I'm looking for a replacement motor. Craigslist has been good to me thus far, so I'm going to make some more calls today to see what I can find cheaply.

     

    I found out that the earlier (GenI at least) SBC engines had the water jacket in the intake manifold, which would make my ITB plans next to impossible. If I end up going LS1 or LT1 I'll probably fab something up, but for now I just want the car back on the street. I'll post on my next great find :)

  14. The GenI SBC didn't change much more than bore and stroke from 1955 through 1995, except for switching to a roller cam in '86. I would assume your intake would work fine but if it didn't you can pick up another one fairly cheap. I would strongly encourage you to go carb with that motor for simplicity sake, but if you must go TBI then just make sure you get everything from the suburban, right down to the O2 sensors (they're expensive and you need 2).I have never heard of the TBI having 4 injectors, I guess that it's batch fire? Not sure what you mean by 'works similarly to a car' as the TBI motor was put in all kinds of cars and trucks for about a decade with little variety between them. Then again the LT1 and LS1 are more my area of expertise.On a side note I doubt that a ITB intake will change the sound of your car significantly. Most of what you hear is the exhaust, and that sound is largely dictated by firing order.Hope I've been of some help, by the way this should really be in the GenI & GenII sbc section.

     

    I thought the 94 was Gen3 not Gen2, honest mistake. I'm a big fan of carb, the only reason I was considering EFI was to do ITBs. If it's easy to toss a carb on this motor, I'm all for it. I believe they were all 4bolt mains, and unless I'm mistaken they were all aluminum blocks. I've got a great edlebrock quadrajet-style carb that I'm pretty fond of that was on my 283, and I THINK it'll flow enough for a 350.

     

    We've been throwing out a lot of anagrams here, so here's a quick legend for anyone who doesn't get what we're discussing:

    • TBI = Throttle Body Intake
    • ITB = Independent Throttle Bodies
    • SBC = Small Block Chevy
    • EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection

    Pretty sure he meant "works similarly to a carb". ;)

     

    I'd ditch the TBI and go with the carbed set up or look for a new engine and go with fuel injection.

    Any chance of moving the blower over?

     

    Yes, I meant carb not car. I'm comfortable with carbed setups, but I'm not sure if I'd need a different manifold than I have now. I'll have to do some research, I suppose.

  15. Oh, I'm very well aware of the ITBs being only for sound (not looks). It's still worth it.

     

    I did a bit more research and found out that the suburban probably won't take my edelbrock performer intake manifold and carb (which is a huge disappointment) and that it's a tbi motor (only four injectors, i think... works similarly to a car). I'd have to add an o2 sensor to the exhaust, which could be problematic since my I essentially have two seperate exhaust systems.

     

    The mounts I have would work for a '71, if the mounts haven't changed 'till after '94, I should be set.

     

    As far as the electrical, I can take EVERYTHING out of the suburban and use the ecu and wiring harness from that. That would essentially mean that I'd be running two entirely seperate wiring harnesses, though.

     

    One for the body and one for the engine. I suppose it's not all that different from stock.

  16. I just found a great deal on a '94 Suburban engine/tranny/ecu combo (the vehicle is totaled, and is being towed off tomorrow). I've been looking for a new engine for awhile, and this seems like a perfect opportunity. The trouble is that I'm not sure what's involved in the swap.

     

    Currently, I have a blown 283 installed. I'm pretty sure I'd have to fabricate new motor mounts and tranny mounts. I'm not sure if my fuel lines would need to be replaced, or if any other unexpected changes will need to be made.

     

    My primary concerns are:

    • motor mounts
    • fuel lines + pump (mechanical pump on the engine currently)
    • electrical (my electrical system is VERY simple right now)
    • transmission mounts (going from a turbo 400 to a 700r4
    • vertical fitment (will I need to cowl the hood for this?

    I'm strongly considering fabricating and installing ITBs and getting a cam for this engine, but I wanted to come by and have some people yell at me for not searching first.

     

    By the way, I did search, and got way too many results that weren't directly related to what I'm doing, so I decided to ask. I believe this engine is an lm7?

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