jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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HybridZ,
I thought it would be a good idea to create a central location for datalogs for members to compare.
These logs all need to be on well running engines all around so that others can use them as a reference point.
Please post in the following format:
- Vehicle: 1973 Datsun 240z
- Engine Setup: L28ET, stock long block, stock turbo/exhaust, stock intake, front mount intercooler, 440cc injectors, lightweight flywheel
- Megasquirt Configuration: MS1 V3.0 MSnS-E 029y4, distributor ignition using megasquirt coil driver
- Datalog: *will post this evening*
- Photo(s)/Video(s) (Optional):
- Vehicle: 1973 Datsun 240z
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On my '73, the nuts were staked, but I don't believe yours are as they probably use a lock nut, but I would check.
If you absolutely can't get it, I think the last ditch effort would be heat, but you have to be careful not to heat the bearings too much.
On my car, I had a hell of a time too, except when I figured out I have to cut off the right in which the nut was staked, it was a piece of cake!
Good luck man!
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Wow, really!? Thats awesome!
I'd rather have the Energy Suspension poly. bushing to match everything else. That amazes me that Napa would carry that bushing.
Man, I REALLY hope this is the problem. If this isn't it, I'll be extremely upset!
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Hey guys,
Just got back in from looking at my transmission mount and it looks like its missing some bushings!
The transmission crossmember has the press-in bushings just like the rear LCAs, except they also have little end "cap" bushing. There is supposed to be two "caps" on each side, but there was only one on each side. There was at least a 1/4" gap between the body and the crossmember. I may have just found the clunk.
Energy suspension poly bushings on the way!
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Alright, I'll look around.
Hey, I've got some videos I've took. I put the rear of the car on jack stands and applied the parking brake in all these videos to create a load situation.
The first one is one of the camera directly below the transmission crossmember. To me, it is shaking WAY too much. Look at that transmission bouncing around! I'm going to go out again and tighten up the bolts/nuts on the ends to see if that helps, but regardless, I do have another transmission insulator on the way. Maybe the insulator is so loose and the crossmember bolts aren't tight enough and causing the transmission to smack into the side of the tunnel? Gosh I HOPE this is my problem!
This next one is a shot from the rear. Everything appears normal and nothing looks to be loose. The mustache bar is flexing a little, but it looks normal to me. What do you guys think?
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So just by holding the CV axles and twisting the opposite ends in opposite directions won't tell me anything?
Just for the record, this clunking was present before I even installed my R200 LSD/CV Axles/CV adapter/280z stub axles.
It may or may not be the same issue, but it sure did sound the same!
After the transmission mount, I would question the motor mounts, but after that, I'm dead in the water with this one.
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But the big nut is threaded onto the strub axle.
I would want to test whether or not there was play between my CV adapters and my stub axles, correct?
I'm thinking I could rip the parking brake which would secure the stub axle via the drum brake, then thread two of the 4 bolts into the adapters and use a pry bar there to see if I can get it to move. Does this sound right?
But say I don't have any play, what is the next thing to consider here? Could my CV axles themselves cause this noise?
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So would a good test be to engage the parking brake, remove the hub end of the CV axle and try to turn my companion flange adapters on the CV side?
Will I really need to yank on them, or should I be able to tell by turning it by hand?
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Drove it again last night and I would say it would take some skill to cover up the clunking noise.
I just went ahead and ordered a new transmission mount, HOPEFULLY this is the culprit. This piece has not been replaced ever, so maybe its just worn/cracked and causing the transmission to bang up against the body.
The rear end is SOLID. I made sure of this by using two nuts to fasten the differntial cover to the mustache bar and tightened it to spec, and I am also using a Ron Tyler front differntial mount, and it trule is solid.
This condition is only happening when power/torque is transferred to the wheels, so something is still loose. Would there be any way that the stub axle could cause this noise? Or perhaps something in the wheel/hub assembly?
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What are you two doing about the vent ducting for the top air vent in the center console?
What about the map light?
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I tightened the gland nut, but the clunk is still there.
Honestly, I'm not sure what to try next. I could replace the saggy strut, but I'm sure thats not causing a clunking sound.
I can always get it to do it. Say I'm just crusing on the highway; if I just goose the throttle and buck the car just a tad, it'll clunk for every "goose" that I initiate. Ughhhhhh this is BUGGING me!
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Hey guys,
Well, I return with bad news. I inspected everything and the clunk is STILL there
I completely tore my rear suspension off, cleaned everything up, made sure everything was torqued correctly, but no luck
I also discovered that I have a bad Illumina strut due to a loose gland nut. I tightened down the gland nut and kept the strut in there for the time being ($), but I don't think that would be the problem.
It sounds like the clunking is coming from there rear, but I'm not 100% sure. I wish I could mount a camera to the bottom of the car or somehow reproduce the condition in a controlled environment, any ideas?
I'm trying to get read for the Midwest Z Fest and I can't seem to figure this one out! Dahhh!!
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The ring gear and pinion gear are considered a matched set. Although you can physically swap pinion gears you will most likely wear down the gears very quickly.
So in other words, don't mix and match ring and pinions, correct?
So in the unfortunate case that my LSD goes ka-put, I could find one of these:
and tear the LSD out and bolt my ring to it and go? If this is true, that would be AWESOME! BUT, I need to find some CV axles as well, just to have on hand. Is there any interchangeability (<is that a word!?) as far as the Z31 VLSD CV axles? I know that they are specific to the splines of the unit. Thats what I'm worried about. Would my CV axles spline into a Z32 unit (check link)?
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In my experience, anything over 300hp in an S30 and you better know how to drive.
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Hey guys!
I noticed that I posted this topic WAYYYY back in August of '08 and I chuckle at my first post now, lol!
At any rate, I'm going to continue updating this thread as progress resumes.
Right now, I am just finishing reassembling my rear suspension. Unfortunately, one of our Tokico Illuminas seems to be shot. I say this because it is no longer returning to its full length after pushing down on it (while it is out of the car, of course). The strut has not made any noise or showing and leaks (that I know of), so I will be reinstalling it as is until I can afford to snag a new one.
I am currently trying to trace my rear end clunk. I have discovered two things while the suspension was out of the car:
1) The nuts on the inner and outer transverse link (control arm) were both out of spec. The inners (24mm) are supposed to be ~115 ft/lbs and the outers ~70 ft/lbs. Most were tight, but some were not. I went ahead and corrected the issue.
2) My gland nut on the passenger side (same side as the bad strut) was loose. This could very well have been the reason my strut failed, due to irregular movement. I tightened it back up and now, the suspension is back in the car.
Hopefully my clunking will be gone after correcting these issues. I am running a 3.7 VLSD from a 300zx with CV shafts and MM adapters on 27 spline 280z stub axles. Additionally, I am using Dave's (AZC) mustache bar and brace to run the finned cover. I just filled the rear end unit with LSD additive and Valvoline 80W 90 synthetic gear oil and used Permatex's "The Right Stuff" to seal the rear cover to the differential housing opposed to the gasket. I am anxious to see how this works because I know it worked VERY well by using it on my oil pan with the gasket. I was having a small leak coming from the very bottom-most point on the differential, but I filled it up and so far, so good (no leaks)! So all in all, a lot of improvements have been made to the rear suspension and differential.
On the other hand, we are trying to prepare for the Midwest Z Fest here in Omaha, NE (YOU should come!). I need to mount/secure my Megasquirt ECU and power board, as well as wait for my LC-1 to return from Innovate (stopped functioning). As of now, the car is still just street tune, and most likely will be that way for the track day (assuming we make it!). I would like to tune the car a little more before the event, but only time will tell. I will update this thread with more photos, but in the mean time, here is my YouTube channel in which I make many update videos. Enjoy!
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Now THIS..
is a HybridZ!
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I can only assume that means I am not familiar with my suspension.
I am guilty!
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I like your thinking John, you're more than likely spot on.
I haven't noticed any noise or ride quality issues, but it will probably show at the track. Glad I caught this when I did. Appreciate your guys' help. Thanks!
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Yes, it still sags with the gland nut on.
The piston doesn't appear to be damaged, but the fact that this one sags and the others do not bothers me. I've never diagnosed a bad strut other than one that had clear piston damage, so I'm not sure if this is a clear indication of a failing strut.
I am thinking it could be causing it to rub by not giving enough resistance when I hit a bump (which is what struts are for) and I only notice it rubbing on the passenger side (which is the side the sagging strut is on), but then again, this may not be related whatsoever. Just throwing that out there.
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Hey guys,
We are running Tokico Illuminas and while inspecting my rear suspension (while out of the car), I noticed the gland nut that holds my strut into the strut tube was loose.
I pulled of the strut mount/spring and noticed that the strut piston was sagging. I pulled it all the way up to the top and sure enough, it sagged down (not all the way, but a couple inches). My other strut does not do this.
Is this normal? My wheel/tire combo now seems to only rub on the passenger side. Could this be why?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!
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The FSM is always good. Search for the download links.
Dah, you're good! Just found it on XenonS30!
John, I do have another question to you that concerns this topic. What is the most common cause of a clunking noise in the drivetrain for you and how do you solve it?
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Hey guys,
Well I've been having trouble finding torque specs for the car, specifically the rear suspension. I have the How to Restore Your Datsun book and the Haynes Manual, but they give little to no information on torque specs. This is critical because of (obviously) safety and the fact that I am inspecting everything in attempt to track down my rear clunk.
If you guys could point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. Thank you!
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Hey guys,
Right now, I have a VLSD R200 with CV shafts in my 240z and I know the CV shafts are specific to this rear end.
For good measure, I would like to have an extra rear end on hand, but I'm not sure how hard it would be considering these rear ends do not show up much.
My question is: will the internals from a short nose swap into this unit? I know the pinion on the long nose is longer, so if anything happened to the pinion, could I steal one from an open R200 from any 280z R200?
Also, what about my CV shafts? If the LSD unit were to go, and I wanted to replace them, would I have to get matching CV shafts again? (say I swapped in 300zx VLSD internals).
Just thinking for the future. Thanks guys!
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I was told by John C. that certain events call for certain wheel size and he mentioned that SCCA ITS calls for a 15x7 size wheel. I also do not want to roll the fenders, so the decrease in width will help me accomplish that.
Drivetrain Clunking...I'm going to need some help.
in Drivetrain
Posted
I call it the transmission crossmember, and then there is an insulator sandwiched between that and the transmission.