jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Yes, the dealership is looking for some replacement wheels, but my father mentioned that they're hard to come by or may not be produced any longer? At any rate, yes, this is wrong on so many levels, and to do this to this car is just a sin.
Thank you again for your help guys, I do appreciate it.
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Hey guys,
This isn't a fun post by any means. Just wanted it to be known that my father's Red Nismo 370z had its wheels snatched by somebody while sitting outside the Nissan dealership in Philadelphia. The wheels had just been repaired along with some quarter panel work only to be stolen.
If you guys in the Philadelphia could keep an eye out for a set of Rays 370z wheels that may or may not be claimed to just have had curb rash repair, I would appreciate any help. Please email me at jacobawahoo@gmail.com if you have any leads. I appreciate your care and concern more than you know. Thanks guys!
Here are the photos of how the car was found in the morning:
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Great... my fuel rail has decided to leak at the #4 and #6 injector holes. Anybody got a spare Pallnet/JSK rail that they'd be willing to sell?
You really think you need an all new fuel rail? Unless you have some legitimate physical damage to the rail itself, it's going to be your fuel injector O-rings (assuming this is an O-ring style rail opposed to a barb style rail).
I've reviewed this whole thread and I think you just need to start with a solid fixed advance angle and go from there. Once you can control timing, the rest should be pretty easy, just a matter of electronic adjustments really. If you're getting consistent fuel pressure, an accurate timing measurement, and you don't hear a big nasty HISSSSS of air coming from the intake manifold (vacuum leak), you're in good shape.
Just keep going, I've been in your shoes before...trust me.
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So going through the pages and i come across the diagram cleanest one yet, props
Thank you sir. I'm actually in the process of rewiring the entire works. I'm going with a "minimalistic" engine bay. I plan on welding shut some holes in the engine bay walls, hiding the body wiring harness, and some other small tidbits all while improving on this current wiring diagram.
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Wow, VERY impressive, job well done my friend. I used a needle scaler opposed to bead blasting, but yours looks much better. Congrats man!
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VERY nice, I like it. I especially like the placement vs. the cigarette lighter hole that I've seen.
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Where are you at in Iowa? You should check out The Nebraska Z Club in Omaha. If you looks through my posts, I also have a 73 with a turbo motor. Maybe I could give you a hand with some things sometime. I've Been through the floor pan process myself.
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So what about the LC-1? I would go through your wiring again and review their given wiring schematics. I did have an issue to where I was forced to send my LC-1 back to Innovate and they swapped mine under warranty.
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^lol!
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The battery is fine, 13+ volts at any time. I've NEVER had a sluggish start, it either clicks or it starts. I have had the same symptom on two different starters and I've installed a starter relay and checked all power connections and voltage at the starter and everything appears fine.
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Hey guys,
For those of you who have experience in starting shimming, I need help.
Since I've rebuilt my L28ET and transmission, I've been having trouble with multiple starters and they all have the same symptom.
"click"
This click is not from a dead battery or a bad starter, it is something else, and I believe this has to do with my starter being too close to the flywheel teeth and just knocking the surface of the flywheel without spinning.
Here is what happens:
I turn the key, "click". I just start clicking away, sometimes very rapidly, sometimes it only takes a couple attempts, but it eventually always starts. I drove myself crazy and did everything in my power to verify that no other factors were causing this. Tested the starters, checked electrical wiring, installed a starter relay (two different ones, I must add), and this problems continues to linger.
Like I said, my thought is that when i installed my Fidanza aluminum flywheel, the dimensions of the relation of the starter to the flywheel may have changed a little due to the fact that it is not a stock flywheel. This may or may not be true, but I believe that shimming the starter will cure my problem.
Now, my question(s): I have some .004" stainless steel sheeting I could use to cut some shimming washers out of to slide over the bolts, or I've seen actual starter shims you can purchase at auto parts stores. What route should I take here? What is a good starting thickness for a shim?
Thanks guys, your help is always appreciated!
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I had this issue and i had to replace my vb921. If you search my name, you'll find a thread with pictures of my melted component. Definitely start there, you'll thank yourself later.
Beyond that, make sure your coil wiring is correct and test that you have power there.
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Pretty impressive.
How does this car feel? There has been so much controversy over this car that its almost infamous!
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We had bad hail that day too! The Z was a victim
I thought ours was bad, but dang, that windshield is annihalated!
We have to have our siding on our house replaced, as well.
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I, too, see the thicker gasket as a band aid fix.
Whatever gets me here should work:
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Is essence, my ultimate goal is 200whp with a triple Weber configuration.
I haven't searched extensively yet, but is there a good (common) cam size that works well with the 45mm DCOEs, E31 head, and L28 block?
I am also unaware as to what my compression ratio be. I don't not plan on running anything above 9.7:1 as per Braap's suggestion in another thread.
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Hey guys,
About two years ago, we picked up a set up triple Webers 45 series from MSA, but I really have no insight as to what 45 is really the measure of (jet?). At any rate, I've decided my next build is going to be utilizing these triple webers, but I'm not sure if they're the right size.
Also, I haven't decided whether or not an L28 or L24 block would be better suited for these carbs. I have an E31 head with an MSA Schneider stage 2 cam on the head, but I've heard bad things about that specific cam.
Any help, or links, are appreciated.
Thank you!
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If I were you, I would definitely get my tach signal figured out first.
As mentioned above, if it doesn't see any tach signal, it doesn't even know you're trying to start/run the car.
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I'm having a similar issue, but I believe I have a bad starter solenoid.
If I turned the key to "off", the car would stay running and the starter gear would smack the flywheel and grind, but only for an instant when you hit the "off" position. Then, I would turn it back to "on" (keep in mind, the car is running this whole time) and it would do the same.
I turned it back to "off" and the car finally shut down, but I heard a motor running and saw smoke from the passenger side. I jumped out of the car and the starter gear was spinning, but the gear wasn't poking out to engage the flywheel (gear reduction starter). Pulled the negative off and it stopped. Smacked the solenoid a couple times and put the negative back on the battery and it went away, but now the starter won't even click (assuming a bad solenoid).
Hopefully I just have a bad starter, but I highly doubt it. Sigh.
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Wow!
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Ill check those, Matt.
Ill also go through the whole drivetrain and see if I can find any excessive play.
I'm happy to hear that my CV shafts can be serviced, because like I said, I believe it will be VERY hard to find another set. I was able to find some brand new ones directly from Nissan for a heft price of $900+ a piece!
If anyone else has any advice that may help, I would appreciate it.
Thank you guys!
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Hey guys,
This past weekend, I attended the Midwest Z Fest and had an absolute blast! Unfortunately, I was experiencing some vibrations at higher speeds and I want to say I have a bad CV axle, but would like to confirm it with you guys. Here are the symptoms:
1) Vibration at higher speeds
2) Metallic clicking noise under mid-high acceleration. The only way I could describe this is if you were touching a screwdriver to the spokes of a fast moving bicycle wheel.
I went ahead and pulled the axles and checked my wheel bearings, but there didn't appear to be any kind of grinding/scraping of any kind either in the bearings or in the CV axle joints.
I'm scared because I'm using the VLSD from an '88 SS Z31 and I KNOW it is going to be tough to find these axles.
Other than this, the car ran PHENOMENALLY and handled very well.
I would really appreciate the help guys, I would like to get out on the track at least one more time before winter.
Thank you HybridZ!
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The water pump had never been changed, and we were told that the motor had 70k miles, so I figured why not. That water pump actually seemed perfectly functional and the impellers were not corroded in any way, nor was it leaking. I just replaced it for good measure.
I may or may not have the puking over problem, but I do know that every time I go to check my radiator fluid level, its always a little lower than I checked it to be before. Perhaps that issue is gone now, but I contacted MSA yesterday because I'm using their aluminum Afco radiator and they didn't have any higher pressure radiator caps (grr!). The cap on there now is a 13psi, but if I'm not seeing temps over 186 fahrenheit, do you think I'll be fine without?
Do you have any insight as to why the rust monster is taking a dump in my radiator?
No Spark (Fixed)
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Ahh, the trials and tribulations of Megasquirt tuning, gotta' love it
Keep going, its worth it in the end. Trust me!
I believe spark must be inverted to utilize the Bosch BIP373 on board ignition, otherwise, you'll overhead the little guy.
Source: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm