jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Fellas,
If anyone has a VR sensor and coil mounting bracket for a Ford EDIS setup on an L series engine, please let me know.
Really need one of these right about now!
Thanks!
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..."I don't know how he stuff that LT1 into a 280Z"
You should have replied:
"Easily"
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A turbo.
I like you.
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Hmm... that must mean that it's a serious PITA. There is another option. Get some aluminum fuel line (or anything else not stainless steel) and the cheap flare tool.
Nah, I've already bent up the stainless steel lines to my liking, these babies are gonna' last!
I guess I'll break down and just buy one of these tools, arrgg!
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Very cool car, wow!
More pictures!
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A little off topic but...
I want one of your brackets! Will you be producing anymore?
Let me know.
Thanks!
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For the GM sensors, they are usually yellow and black wires coming off the pig tail.
In general, black is used for ground, so thats what I go with.
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AlantaZ,
Will you please give a rundown of what the issue was?
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Buy some rubber cord stock in a rectangular or square profile, if you can find the right size. Get a sharp exacto and cut a v-groove where the line will pass through.
Try here:
http://acehose.com/7...-cord-stock.htm
Hmm....getting warmer. I'm not sure I'm looking for so much a "cord" but for more of a straight block of rubber. Basically, i just need to cut out some rectangles to replicate the stock pieces.
Anyone else?
EDIT:
What do you guys think?:
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Wouldn't poly bushings around your fuel lines be a bit too harsh? I mean, I don't know the durometer of the stock rubber, or what poly can get down too, but it seems to my uneducated self that just buying a large chunk of rubber would be your best bet.
Bingo.
I just threw poly out there because it appears to be of good quality. You're right, I just need a generic block of rubber to cut from.
Any ideas?
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I guess I'm a little confused. You bought this motor for your '77, but you're going to scrap it (the '77) once you get the motor running...? Am I missing something?
Anyways, this post is very vague. What ECU are you running? Did you get the wiring harness out of the car?
Please provide more details.
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Yes, and besides, most places won't accept returns on tools for just that reason. Splitting ends are possible with any tool, not just the cheap ones.
This item specifically states that it won't flar stainless steel, which is what I'm using.
Ross, what are the chances of me borrowing your buddy's tool?
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You're only going to be working with one head and one cam for starters.
If you're looking for those numbers, a ported head and an HY35 will get you there easy on a stock long block.
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Thanks for the advice.
I'd rather use the correct tool and avoid splitting the end at all costs.
Would it be bad for me to buy one from Speedway motors and return it when I am done? They're ~$175!
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Your input is greatly appreciated, Tony.
I am leaning more toward a big block so that I can just cut out what I need and not worry about making a mold, compensating for shrinkage, etc.
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Most of the auto parts stores have loaner tools. Pay a deposit, use it, return it, get your money back. I've seen the brake line flaring kits at O'Reillys.
Unfortunately, these loaner tools will be a 45* flare...I'm looking for a 37* flare tool for AN fittings.
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My fellow HybridZ friends,
Just finished bending up my stainless steel hard lines and now I'm looking at cutting up some new rubber insulators. The stock ones are trashed/crumbling.
I'm looking for a rubber similar to the energy suspension urethane, the red stuff. Does anyone have any idea where I could get something like this?
Thanks fellas!
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You know, I think this is one of those tools that I would use all of once.
If someone would be kind enough to let me borrow theirs, that would be awesome. I don't see myself flaring too many hardlines in the future.
If it comes down to it, I'll pick up one of the Ridgid ones.
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Okay, looks like nobody has anything to bring to the table on this one. I'll go ahead and pull everything apart and follow the FSM instructions as far as disassembly and reassembly.
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What is the benefit of swapping a 280 suspension into a 240? Spline count would be one thing, but you could just swap stub axles.
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Hey guys,
First of all, mods please move this if I'm in the wrong section.
Anyways, I'll be heading out to Philadelphia next week to spend time with my dad and was wondering if it would be a good experience to go watch the Rolex Sports Car Series out at New Jersey speedway? I've never been to a big race event of any kind, so I'm just looking for general input from anyone! They also look like they offer some pretty mean go karts as well, so that could be a lot of fun as well.
Thanks guys.
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Here is what I am working with, as well as future plans:
Stock l28et engine rebuilt/warrantied to stock specs by previous owner with only one thousand miles on it. APR head studs-rod bolts, HKS 1mm metal head gasket, Jim Wolf Tech turbo cam and springs, custom oil blow by catch can by hybridz member, Aeromotive a-1000 fuel pressure regulator, Pallnet finned fuel rail, RC 550 injectors, SDS ecu/coils (with 18psi boost map & dyno tuning already performed to a similar engine by previous owner and Hybridz member), port matched stock exhaust manifold-2000* powder coated with external Tial 38mm waist gate, Pallnet larger ex manifold mounting bolts, Turbonetics T3/To4b, 60-1 comp, .82 A/R, stage 5 turbine 2000* powder coated housing, Custom (240Hoke)3" downpipe with external waist gate pipe, Custom (240Hoke)intercooler piping with Tial bov and Treadstone same sided inlet outlet intercooler,K&N conical air filter, Stock non egr or webbed n42 intake manifold ported to match 240sx throttle body and completely ported, BHJ alluminum harmonic damper, Fidanza 10.5lb flywheel, MSA comp oil pan gasket, Arizona Z car alluminum oil pan, new turbo oil pump-water pump sourced from MSA, 1998 s14 5speed trans with only 38k on it, B&M short shifter. Lots of polished pieces currently getting zoop sealed, all of which should be good for 50 horsepower
.Future plans as funds will allow for include: Head work by Braap, mandrel bent 3" stainless steel exhaust with oval can(Burns,Magnaflow,Borla,Vibrant???), Mckinney Motorsport engine mounts, ACT clutch, DEI titanium turbo wrap for ex mani, turbo and downpipe, ATL black box stock fuel tank combo as written up on here.
Oooooh shiny
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Does anybody have any input on this subject?
If nothing else, everything will be coming apart, inspected, cleaned/repacked, and put back together.
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Is my oil feed and drain ok? Check out my new blog as well
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Hey guys,
I just have a quick question regarding my oil feed and return on my HY35. If you read my most recent entry on my blog I started a couple days ago, it'll explain my problem.
Basically, I need to know if the angle of my feed and drain are ok. I'm afraid my drain could potentially be problematic.
Link:
http://jacob80a.wordpress.com
Thanks guys!