socorob
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Posts posted by socorob
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What model are those seats, and what is the width of the seat bottom near the hinge, including the lever that tilts the seat? I have Miata seats set lower and they touch the tunnel and the lever touches the outer sill... I would like to find more supportive seats but need my seat to stay low.
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Its for the ball blower under the steering column.
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See how the top one has 2 small holes and the bottom one has 1?
Mine only have 1 hole with a stud in it. Just by looking, I can't tell any other differences.
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I have the TTT Q45 setup on my car, and I used the rear wheel hubs with bearings that I got from the car I pulled the rear setup out of. The car had 130000ish miles on it. I want to put new bearings on when I change my spring rate soon. There are left and right versions of these. Some I found don't specify if they are right or left, several say right only, and I have yet to see one that says left. The part number from a lot of manufacturers seem to be 511011. Looks like it was used in the Q45 and Z32 Turbo. The non turbo Z32 has a similar looking hub, but from what I can tell has a smaller bore. I really would like to just get bearings and press them in, not get a whole hub. I see in pictures online these part numbers marked on the bearings:
NTN HUB030 OL
AB245WX 511011
MB BH511011 38030316
Does anyone have a part number for just replacement bearings for these, or for a left hand hub?
It seems like the only difference that I can discern between the left and the right is the single little stud sticking out of the top. In the photos on some replacements, they show 2 holes in the top where it looks like you could press your stud out and put it on the side you need it to be on. Am I correct in thinking this? I want to have the parts in hand before I tear the car apart. Nothing worse than tearing something apart and not having the right parts to put it back together.
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I have a deep tire well that was removed by drilling spot wells. It was painted and has no rust. I'm not sure what year but it didn't fit my car. I have the 78 with t he shallow well.
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My friend took his tank to a radiator shop that dipped the tank and then sealed it. I think it wasn't that much more than buying the stuff and trying to do it yourself. He did the try it yourself with a chain but it didn't get everything out and clogged his injectors, so the sealer kit plus injector cleaning costed him more than taking it to a place.
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If you use lizard skin, go to the dollar store and get a few rolls of the cheap aluminum foil to foil the holes. Prep takes a while, but it only takes minutes to spray the car. The nice thing is, you can cover everything. I did my Z with lizard skin, and my previous car with dynamat. I much prefer lizard skin for performance, ease to apply (the dynamat sucked to apply), and weight. Dynamat is heavy stuff.
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look at the pictures on the post from Feb 9, 2014, and you can see how I mounted them in a 280. Not sure how much different the 240 mounting points are. This was a Gen 2 compaq.
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It just keeps the door handle from clanging if you let it go. It's basically a silencer.
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I'm not interested but it looks like it could be a good option for someone who has a bad dash and wanting to have a racepac digital race dash.
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Are you going to the wanna go fast 1/2 mile shootout at NOLA motorsports park?
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Does this install onto the original dash frame? Would it fit a stock Z if someone was wanting a custom dash?
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What do you mean "give it tension"?
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I left the ground connection on and reused it, and also fished the power wire with the inline fuse all the way to the battery, and reused all that too. That let me use the proper fuse. It's fairly easy to pull the Saturn columns. On 1 of the 2 cars I pulled them from I lucked out as someone had pulled the engine already, so everything was in the open. The pullapart in Baton Rouge only charged me $45 each with the steering wheel, airbag, everything still attached. Down here I don't thin many people were using these, at least at the time. I've seen several and never saw one missing the column.
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Way to get right into it!
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Make sure you fit everything in place before you do any tack welding. Someone else's may vary from mine somewhat.
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Since thats not really a structural piece, I used body panel glue will a few spot welds all around.
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Are you going with a fuel cell? If not, I have an extra spare tire well in perfect condition.
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I used ones from restoration specialties. Part # 11-144. $2.25 each instead of the 8 each the Z suppliers sell, so $9 for the car instead of $32 for the tiniest pieces of rubber.
http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/11-144-bum/
4249 may also work, but I didn't try those.
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Mine has about 1.5 inches. My ride height has been level for a few years, just don't like the slack in the front and preload in the rear. I think if I go to 300- 350 in the rear it will help with that, plus keep the car a little flatter on tight turns.
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I got the TTT Front and rears. It was originally 300r 250f. I swapped them around because I felt everywhere was too soft. With 300f the front feels and handles much better. The ride is good. The car weighs 2900. I think TTT may have cut my struts wrong. With no preload and just the springs touching with no slop, the front is several inches higher than the rear with either springs on either end. Since they originally sent 50 pound heavier rears, I was wondering if I should go to 350 in the rear since 300 feels about perfect in my car.
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Mine probably compresses more than that. How would the length of the spring change how much it compresses?
New Front End Alignment - Not what I was hoping for
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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What would be a good maximum caster for the Z assuming everything was adjustable, and nothing would rub or run out of thread length? I know some newer cars run fairly high caster.