Jehannum

Mine looks like this: https://imgur.com/gallery/iMzF2

I met John around the 2008 MSA shindig, and have a few of his parts on my car. I'm just gutted to hear about this.

Thanks!

Hey all, '71 240Z with electrical issues here. My coolant circuit sprung a leak, right over the starter. This shorted everything to ground, and ended up letting the smoke out of both the fusible link (between the white w/red stripe harness wire and the starter) and the ammeter. I'm swapping over to a '76 volt meter, so the interior stuff is taken care of, but I need to replace the fusible link. It looks to my eye like a 10 or a 12ga. wire, but I figured I'd tap the brain trust here since one of you probably knows it off hand (and since searching fusible linke gauge returns nothing...). Of note is the fact that I have a rear-mounted battery with a kill switch behind the license plate (the alternator charging wire runs to the kill switch instead of the starter).

I'd start troubleshooting here. It will involve ripping at least half your dash apart, though.

There's also a small pleated tube that takes in air from the driver's side dashboard. If that pulled off of its vent boss, you'll likely see a similar issue. edit: if you set the temp all the way to 90°F (the max setting), it should bypass temperature sensing altogether. What happens when you do that? If it gets warm, then you've got a sensor issue. If not, you've got a mechanical issue (mix door or vent door).

I just grounded the battery to the floor of the hatch, and then grounded the starter body to the original post on the firewall (where the smaller wire connected originally). Grounding nets are overrated.

Thanks. The Z32 is about due for paint jail (I've almost got the engine bay stripped enough to call it ready), and I'll be laying paint on it soon. Eric (sq_creations on here) tuned it this year, and it made ~430HP before I decided to tear it down again. I'm hoping that with a functioning boost controller (not limited to ~13PSI), I can make slightly better numbers than that.

Thanks. I can hardly believe how nice it came out after being sandwiched in '09.

I don't have any pics. The basic arrangement should be the same on any Z31 pulley, though. Of the 3 rows, the rear two are one piece, and the power steering pulley is another (bolted on the front). The bolts go through the PS pulley, through the alt/AC pulley, into the harmonic balancer. The balancer holds the keyway, and the alt/AC pulley holds the timing marks. Since the double row pulley isn't keyed to the balancer in any way, if you take it apart, make sure to reassemble with the timing marks starting right over the top of the keyway (spaced clockwise away from it). I've heard talk of two and three piece pulleys, but I've only ever seen the three piece unit. Car is an '84 NA, and the reference pulley I used came off of (I think) an '86 (two V-belt, one serp for the alternator).

Follow up: The distributor was stabbed correctly, based on the marks on the balancer. The marks on the balancer were wrong. He'd taken the balancer apart to paint the pulleys, and did not reassemble it correctly. Since he had the 3 piece balancer, it was possible to get the timing marks misaligned in increments of (you guessed it!) 60 degrees. I sat it next to a known good one, and the keyway to timing mark relationship was off. I corrected it, and how he's running happily at 20 btdc.

Heh, guess I'm owned then. That would make some sense, then, since the only way the bastard would run would be 60° off.

Cylinder 1 is the front cylinder on the bank opposite the distributor.

I know what TDC is, and we visually verified that the cams are setup right in relation to when the crank says it's at TDC. When the distributor is set the right way, pointing at cylinder 1, it won't fire at all when we try to turn it over.