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BusterZ

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Posts posted by BusterZ

  1. Well, I finally broke down and sold the '79 Fairlady. Left on a trailer bound for NC tonight. Sad to see it go but now I can look for another project. Finishing an 84 Mazda RX7 right now (dont yell at me yet). Maybe look at a 1st gen Z car this time (V8 conversion ?). :D

    OOps, gotta change my signature to Fairlady "now gone South"

  2. I bought a '79 Fairlady 280Z that was imported by an Air Force friend into the U.S. in December 1988. Paperwork was handled by A&W Int'l Brokers in Long Beach, CA. Cost him $125 entry fee/ $100 Customs bond/$100 Surety fee. I dont know details on US conversion 'cause I dont have any paperwork for that. Car has DOT glass, seat belt buzzer, cat converter and such. Sometimes I run into him at Christmas. If I do I'll get more details from him.

  3. Just looked at mine, they've been laying on the table downstairs for a year now. Your gonna have to take off the rear panels to get to the speakers. The grilles are held on by little flat metal fasteners pushed over plastic pins on the back of the grille. I'd say if you try to pull them off, you're gonna break the pins off. If I had batteries for the digital camera tonight, I'd post you a pic. I'll get some tomorrow and try to get one up.

  4. Got over 175k on my last turbo car ("86 Chrysler LeBaron GTS), yeah its been awhile since I ran a turbo, but I like 'em.

     

    1)Do not shut down your engine down without allowing the turbo to spool down to idle speed.

    2)Pull your ignition coil wire off and crank your engine to re-prime your oil system after draining for oil change. This sends oil around the system and turbo without pushing exhaust gas thru turbine side while its still dry.

    3) run synthetic oil after initial break in on rebuild

    4) as said in post before, keep the oil return line clean

     

    I never rebuilt the turbo and there was still very little play when I sold it. I know it ran another 15k - 20k after I got rid of it but was wrecked then.

  5. Hey Trevor, I've got a '79 Fairlady and have one Nissan key that looks like the one you pictured. Its got the same black around the NISSAN MOTOR as your pic. Also have a key cut from a generic blank thats stamped (ready for this ?) "BLANK MOTOR M239". One of these fits the ignition and the other opens doors/hatch, can't remember which is which right now. It been 2 years since the car was running and will be another 2 years before its ready again.

  6. I have done CO2 blasting on stainless steel pipe at a refinery to prep for chloride resistant coatings. Worked OK, but not as well as traditional 'black beauty'. Used CO2 to eliminate possibility of sparks due to combustible materials in the area. Seems like it should work on undercoating. How's the cost compared to regular blasting ? If this worked, I'd be interested to use on my car (if I ever get that far).

  7. Agree Dave240Z:

    most German/European cars and motorcycles require "special tools". and when they say special, they really mean it. They look at engineering issues different than the Americans and Japanese do. We try to make things more simple (as a general rule). I hope that the combination of auto mfg's between the 3 areas (US, Asia and Europe) does not increase the need for "special" pullers, etc for us poor working folks.

  8. to all:

    I haven't been here too long and don't post alot, but I've learned more here than any other car related web site. This is by far the most technical and chuck full of good info place there is. I also own an RX7 and believe me, there is no site for those that compare to this Z car site (I've been looking hard for one and ain't found one yet).

    I'm prep'ing a '79 Fairlady 280Z for modification (mostly read as tearing it apart) and still am not sure if it will be a V8 or a turbo 6 (when I get that far my wife will be a happier person). I don't want to loose either groups input.

    Engines are engines and no matter who made them or how many cylinders it has, the goal is to shove more air and fuel in each hole and then get it to all to burn. After that, you do what you can to get as much as the combustion gas out as possible. I see kicking any of these groups off as a mistake and a loss to everyone. (yeah maybe I'm a little selfish here).

    Heck I just bought a Silverado SS and my kid drives a CRX Si (stock). :oops:

     

    What ever happens, keep the diversity thats here as a benifit to all.

  9. Thanks so far guys, I probably wouldn't have thought of the different size spacers, not atleast until I would have had to pull the motor again. (things usually seem more fun the second time) - but I'm running the S130 chassis. I should have been more clear (seems in '79 the Japanese didn't use the ZX designation like here in the states). The Failrlady had a 2.0L motor and the 280Z Fairlady had the 2.8L (like our ZX). Too late and my brain had shut down at 9:30.

     

    Transmission wise, I wanna 6 speed. Cant help but row them gears, even if it is with my left hand. Atleast the clutch is on the same side.

  10. Before I get too far into this project I'm going to ask a question,

    (there is a first time for everything). :oops:

     

    Has any one ever done a small block Chevy swap into a right hand drive Z car ?

     

    My car is a 1979 Fairlady 280Z (2+2). Has stock 2.8L with 5 speed.

     

    Do any of you know if there any abnormal problems that the right hand drive configuration presents to the V-8 installation ?

     

    I've been deciding between building a turbo L28 or installing a sbc and am leaning toward the Chevy swap.

  11. Yeah, break in on conventional motor oil. You need the wear to seat rings, etc. Synthetic base stocks are more stable and do not degrade nearly as quickley at higher temps. They also have less change in viscosity as the temperature changes (higher viscosity index, vi). Some newer motor oil base stocks are hydrotreated (saturated with hydrogen) to increase the vi which gives a more stable viscosity.

    I've run Mobil 1 in most all my engines (after break in) and have not seen increase in consumption or leakage. Syntec has a hydrotreated base stock. I use Castrol conventional motor oil, they use a very good additive package in their oil.

     

    Remember, auto manufactures want you to run the lower visc oils (5w 's) to get better fleet mile per gallon numbers (not intrested in engine life). :twisted: I've never run below a 10w- oil and had no problems.

    PS I keep most vehicles atleast 10 years and usually well ovewr 150000 miles

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