MaliceIntent

I know that the two patterns are different, just as I know there are other parts of the drivetrain that are weaker. I was only considering the idea for the rear. I will be upgrading to the VLSD R200 and half-shafts(CVs) in the rear for better traction and strength for my SBC. I do not plan on changing the rims on the car, ever, so i thought it might help hold the possible 400 pound feet of torque better. If you guys say its not necessary, or that it will only weaken the hub itself, then i will toss the idea aside. That's why I asked; Negative comments in response are not desired nor necessary. Thank you to those who answered my questions. BTW, itsadatsun240: those are some sexy ass rims (:

I, like a lot of other people, have rims with the two 4 lug patterns on them. was just curious if there is room on the rear hubs to drill and add 4 more lugs to fill the rim pattern giving myself 8 lugs of strength. I know its a bit much, but its better than 4, and my rims will support it. Has anyone tried this? is it even possible??

looks good! I've heard of this conversion and often wondered if it was as easy as it seems. Can't wait to see how it turns out, i might do it to!

Anything is possible with with the right tools and ingenuity. Poeple have stuffed big blocks chevys in the 280z's engine bay, so i can imagine it is possible. Making mounts is the easy part, but consider the following (just off the top of my head): 1. check height of assembled motor at the point where it will cross the steering rack and crossmember for hood clearance 2. check for steering shaft clearance uuummm...prolly a few other things but i cant remember atm. good luck! -MIKE

Thank you for the reply, however those are not what i am looking for. The first one is close, but the barbed end is -8AN. I need it to be 3/8" or -6AN barb. I think im going to have to combine these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM3156/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-98201/ Which sux because of the cost of the first one, as I will need two (send and return) But for now, the search continues.

Looks good!

Over the holiday weekend, I was able to find time to fabricate the fuel cell brackets and frame. Hell, I even found time to install them! You can also see in the under pic that I've been working on hammering out the damage to the rear of the car. I suck at bodywork, but its getting there. As you can see, the tank is positioned further to the right. After weighing the option of installing a muffler on each side of the tank for the classic duel exhaust look, I have decided to put both mufflers on the left side and the fuel pump/filter on the right. This leaves more room for heat shielding the tank, as the mufflers will be welded together. Also positions the pump and filter way away from the hot exhaust. -MIKE EDIT: In case anyone was wondering, I do plan on making a skidplate for the underside of the tank. Its not low enough to be a big problem, but I have scraped my stock tank several times coming out of medium steep driveways....so just in case.

You need to find out what the displacement of the flattop pistons are, is there a part number engraved in them? Also need to have the engine block's deck measured to find out if its been shaved....same with the heads, there is a chance that they were previously milled. Wouldnt hurt to measure the rod length as well. there is no telling what the builder of that engine did to try and make up for the larger head volume...maybe nothing. If the higher volume heads HAVE already been compensated for, and you not knowingly compensate again, you could push your compression too high....and this would be BAD. -MIKE

here is my tank after I pulled it from my '72: Also, if you remove the panels on the inside of the car behind the fill cap, there is some little tank thing above the fill location with fuel lines running to it. I have NO idea what all the fuel lines and that tank are for, but I remember dealing with them when I stripped my car. Start there. -MIKE

I've been trying to locate a -8AN female to 3/8" hosebarb 90 degree elbow adaptor for my fuel system. Does such a beast exist? I can only find a straight one, and i dont wanna stack a bunch of fittings. Like this, but in swivel elbow form: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-98201/ thanx, -MIKE

the L31, which is a "Vortec 350" or "GEN1+" or "GEN1e" was put in 1996-2002 Fullsize Chevy/GMC Vans. The block is identical to '87 and up GEN1 blocks, it has a roller cam, and Vortec heads. Because of the Vortec heads, a Vortec style intake manifold is required for carb conversion. What parts are you looking at?

I would bet money that it is an L31-R (4 bolt main) same as this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12530283/ 4 bolt mains are used primarily used in heavy duty applications, and a 3500 im sure is considered to be heavy duty. but here is the two bolt main sister motor: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=12530282/ -MIKE

If this is the carcraft 305 build you are talking about, I say go for it. Looks like they have everything they did layed out here: http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/carcraft325hp305.html -MIKE

what is the casting # on your heads?