MaliceIntent

I know that the two patterns are different, just as I know there are other parts of the drivetrain that are weaker. I was only considering the idea for the rear. I will be upgrading to the VLSD R200 and half-shafts(CVs) in the rear for better traction and strength for my SBC. I do not plan on changing the rims on the car, ever, so i thought it might help hold the possible 400 pound feet of torque better. If you guys say its not necessary, or that it will only weaken the hub itself, then i will toss the idea aside. That's why I asked; Negative comments in response are not desired nor necessary. Thank you to those who answered my questions. BTW, itsadatsun240: those are some sexy ass rims (:

I, like a lot of other people, have rims with the two 4 lug patterns on them. was just curious if there is room on the rear hubs to drill and add 4 more lugs to fill the rim pattern giving myself 8 lugs of strength. I know its a bit much, but its better than 4, and my rims will support it. Has anyone tried this? is it even possible??

looks good! I've heard of this conversion and often wondered if it was as easy as it seems. Can't wait to see how it turns out, i might do it to!

Anything is possible with with the right tools and ingenuity. Poeple have stuffed big blocks chevys in the 280z's engine bay, so i can imagine it is possible. Making mounts is the easy part, but consider the following (just off the top of my head): 1. check height of assembled motor at the point where it will cross the steering rack and crossmember for hood clearance 2. check for steering shaft clearance uuummm...prolly a few other things but i cant remember atm. good luck! -MIKE

Thank you for the reply, however those are not what i am looking for. The first one is close, but the barbed end is -8AN. I need it to be 3/8" or -6AN barb. I think im going to have to combine these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM3156/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-98201/ Which sux because of the cost of the first one, as I will need two (send and return) But for now, the search continues.

Looks good!

Over the holiday weekend, I was able to find time to fabricate the fuel cell brackets and frame. Hell, I even found time to install them! You can also see in the under pic that I've been working on hammering out the damage to the rear of the car. I suck at bodywork, but its getting there. As you can see, the tank is positioned further to the right. After weighing the option of installing a muffler on each side of the tank for the classic duel exhaust look, I have decided to put both mufflers on the left side and the fuel pump/filter on the right. This leaves more room for heat shielding the tank, as the mufflers will be welded together. Also positions the pump and filter way away from the hot exhaust. -MIKE EDIT: In case anyone was wondering, I do plan on making a skidplate for the underside of the tank. Its not low enough to be a big problem, but I have scraped my stock tank several times coming out of medium steep driveways....so just in case.

You need to find out what the displacement of the flattop pistons are, is there a part number engraved in them? Also need to have the engine block's deck measured to find out if its been shaved....same with the heads, there is a chance that they were previously milled. Wouldnt hurt to measure the rod length as well. there is no telling what the builder of that engine did to try and make up for the larger head volume...maybe nothing. If the higher volume heads HAVE already been compensated for, and you not knowingly compensate again, you could push your compression too high....and this would be BAD. -MIKE

here is my tank after I pulled it from my '72: Also, if you remove the panels on the inside of the car behind the fill cap, there is some little tank thing above the fill location with fuel lines running to it. I have NO idea what all the fuel lines and that tank are for, but I remember dealing with them when I stripped my car. Start there. -MIKE

I've been trying to locate a -8AN female to 3/8" hosebarb 90 degree elbow adaptor for my fuel system. Does such a beast exist? I can only find a straight one, and i dont wanna stack a bunch of fittings. Like this, but in swivel elbow form: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-98201/ thanx, -MIKE

the L31, which is a "Vortec 350" or "GEN1+" or "GEN1e" was put in 1996-2002 Fullsize Chevy/GMC Vans. The block is identical to '87 and up GEN1 blocks, it has a roller cam, and Vortec heads. Because of the Vortec heads, a Vortec style intake manifold is required for carb conversion. What parts are you looking at?

I would bet money that it is an L31-R (4 bolt main) same as this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12530283/ 4 bolt mains are used primarily used in heavy duty applications, and a 3500 im sure is considered to be heavy duty. but here is the two bolt main sister motor: http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=12530282/ -MIKE

If this is the carcraft 305 build you are talking about, I say go for it. Looks like they have everything they did layed out here: http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/carcraft325hp305.html -MIKE

what is the casting # on your heads?

i know everyone is getting them, but I still think they are sexy, so i bought a set: Here is the Kwik Wire 14-circuit wire kit I got from a hodrod show for $200:

whatup jay! yeah, that was me. I heard your Z is up and running now? hopefully we can all cruise together soon Im not looking for crazy power, only ~350bhp. the engine will be running: - 9.4:1 compression - Vortec heads - mild/moderate street cam - edelbrock performer EPS intake - Holley 600CFM carb for the Tranny, I will start with a 700R4 (I have a buddy that has a rebuilt one for me for $250) but want to one day move up to a T56 so I can get that .50 overdrive for taking her out of town. Rearend is will be 3.54 280z R200, but I also plan on upgrading that to the Q45? LSD once the car is back on the road and I come up with the $$ -MIKE

whatup! 93304 here...im right down the street from the automall

Some before pictures of the block...

So I decided it was time to start a build thread since my project is FINALLY getting off the ground. I'll start with my car: 1972 240z -- picked her up for $900 tagged and running here locally. The only downside is Salvage title, but i really dont care, the car is complete with practically NO rust...just a little around the battery, and a nickle sized spot under the hatch. As you can see, there is a little bit o' damage in the rear that will get taken care of when I fix the rust. Car had house carpet in it when i got it (first thing to go) and the seats need to be redone. The wiring in the car is also bad and needs replacement. I drove the car for about a year before i parked it, and stripped it. I aquired a virgin 1979 4 bolt main 350, running, from a friend for $100. I tore it down and sent it away to the machine shop for a .030 over bore and hone, and to be decked. I have MANY MANY parts that i have been collecting over the last two years in preparation for this build. I will post here as they are installed. To be continued...

they are awsome, very addictive cars! I did similar with mine...I have a nice, easy to drive, very comfortable chrysler sebring v6 fully loaded, but when I bought my Z, i drove it EVERYWHERE instead. Even though all the seals were rotted out (very drafty), had no carpet, speedo didnt work, and to turn the heater on i had to twist two wires together. The headlights would randomly turn themselves off, reaked of gas fumes, suspension was completely worn out, and my seat was missing a couple bolts and wobbled. Still I prefered to drive my wonderful Z. I cant wait for my restore to be complete and get out of my plain jane sebring. -MIKE

You are right, people have built some nice 305s. I guess all i was trying to get accross is, unless you want the right to say "No, its a 305...i just made it bad-ass", or are in a place that is short on junkyards, a 350 is a better bang for the buck since you plan on rebuilding anyway...and the heads are 64cc 350 heads.

from the little bit i know of that motor, its a total piece. prolly best to get a 350 shortblock from a boneyard or craigslist and rebuild that, then throw your 64cc heads on. otherwise you are going to have to get a new rotating asm, or new flat or domed pistons and have your current rotating asm rebalanced. you could also get a pair of 305 58cc heads from a boneyard (usually ~$100 a pair from a pick-your-part joint) and go that route...but then you are still stuck with a crappy under 250hp motor (assuming you rebuild stock with a street cam) that runs out of breath around 5k. the above numbers are very generalized as i know almost nothing of your current setup, budget, or vehicle usage plans, but hey, its something. -MIKE

my work truck is a Nissan pickup, which i know isnt in any way related to your v8, but i recently had a weird problem with it that i thought i would share just in case. Truck ran fine for years, then just died one day while driving it. I first checked to make sure it was getting fuel, and it was. I then checked to see if it was getting spark, and it was. ?? after many wasted hours trying to figure it out, i had it towed to the dealership and let them deal with it. Turned out to be a weak ignition coil...it was making visible spark, but wasnt hot enough to ignite the mixture. Dont know it this will help, but like i said...Just in case. -MIKE

I wouldn't really call 9.4:1 "low compression" for a crate motor, for example, the 290HP crate GM motor (and a few others) is running 8.5:1. The "Truck replacement" motor is 8.75:1, and even the 330hp HO GM crate and ZZ383 are only 9.1:1. check this out: GM#:19210007 aka 330hp HO crate motor: - 4 bolt main 1-piece rear main seal - 9.1:1 compression - Flat Tappet cam- .435int .460exh with 212/222 duration @ .050in. 112.5 lobe centerline - Vortec 64cc heads - 330hp 380tq - Summit cost: $2,719.95 GM#:12530283 aka L31-R: - 4 bolt main 1-piece rear main seal - 9.4:1 compression - roller cam- 0.414int 0.428exh 191/196 @ 0.050in. 111 lobe centerline - Vortec 64cc heads - 255hp 330tq. (rated on a fuel inj. smog control vehicle) - Summit Cost: $2,159.95 See what i'm getting at here?