Onion

I live clear across the US, even if the DMV was willing to give up personal information like that, I have no way of going in person. Again though, there's absolutely no way they'd give up PII. If anyone sees it rolling around though, please let me know.

I'm looking to buy back my 1973 Datsun 240Z. I sold it to someone (not a member, that I know of) in South Florida in late 2015. I was hurting for money and deeply regret the sale. The VIN is HLS30-150464. It had quite a lot of mods but what made it stand out most were the horribly ugly Centerline wheels and the Mercedes blue paint. If you see this car, please let me know.

I have one that I could sell you for cheap but it needs a rebuild. Let me know if you're interested.

A guy is offering me two short blocks for $300. A F54/P79 L28 that be put dishes pistons into, and an unknown L24. What do you guys think on the price? I want to get him as low as possible so that I can still buy Jesse's L28ET lol.

Looking for pretty much anything. I'm so tired of the ugly wheels on my Z. Looking for something local (NE Florida), in decent shape, don't really care about the size. Looking for something 15" to 17" in diameter with about 6" to 9" of width. My only real concern is price - I want to keep it cheap.

I'm trying to find the name of this piece that was cut out at the bottom. Is that the rocker panel or lower door? I made an oopsie and hit something with my car and it caved inwards. I'm gonna have to chop it out and find a replacement piece to weld in.

Bump.

Mario, I'm in Jacksonville. Jesse, I'm talking to a local guy that's asking $850 for the full motor, harness, and ecu. I am interested in yours if that deal doesn't go through. Thank you.

I was going through some financial troubles and put the car and one of my bikes up for sale after being out of work for 3 months due to a wreck that left me with a shattered ankle and huge medical bills. Bike sold, keeping the Z, and have some extra cash to swap a motor in. It's also the standard love/hate Datsun ownership story.

Looking for an L28ET as complete as possible in Florida for my 240Z. Thanks!

Looking for a 5 speed transmission for my Z. Doesn't matter if its a close or wide ratio, I'd just rather it be as close to Florida as possible. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

Tested the battery and I got 12.6. Tried to fire it up, it started instantly this morning. Took it for a spin to recharge the battery, all went well. Parked it, tried to start it again, no issues. Thanks for the help. Something must have gotten wet or moist from the rain and prevented it from starting.

I'm not getting any spark. It could be from having cranked it so much before because it's not cranking as hard as it was earlier. Also, I tried taking the coil to distributor wire and unplugging it at the distributor side and laying it on top of the valve cover and cranking it (as suggested on zcar to other people, found it in a search) and I wasn't getting anything. I then pulled the number 3 plug and tried again to see if I was still getting spark, and there was nothing. Spark is gone. The 10V measurement at the coil was after having cranked it a few times for about 5-10 seconds each crank, so it could just be that the battery is getting low. I don't even own a battery charger/booster, but I could try it with a friend's car jumping mine. I'll go check and see what the voltage reads with the circuit closed (to establish a new baseline, I doubt I'm still getting 10V), and open, and I'll report back. Thank you for your help, six.

I've been messing with it for about an hour now and can't figure out why I can't get my 73 240z to start. I drove last night and it ran great. When I crank it I can hear it almost turn over, but I've tried plenty of times and it's not starting. I am getting fuel to the carb (single holley 390). The fuel pressure gauge before the carb shows 4 PSI, which is what it's always been running at. When I give it some gas, I can see and hear it spray fuel normally. I've tried starting fluid and I'm getting the same results. I thought it would be a spark issue, so I took a multimeter to the coil and it's getting power with the key in the "on" position. I then took out a plug and set it on the valve cover and cranked the car and I am seeing a spark. What could be the issue here? The only other thing I can think of is that something might have gotten wet. I left the car out in the rain all morning and it was a little wet under the hood, but not unreasonably so. The coil is a 3 ohm flamethrower coil and it's got the Pertronix ignitor electronics rather than a points distributor. Edit: My plugs are pretty dirty because the car burns oil. I've done loads of reading about it and it seems that the general consensus on the matter is to ignore it as it isn't worth the money to "fix" the issue and just keep topping it off every now and then. The spark on the plug closest to the driver (number 1 I believe) was orange. Should I test all the others while I'm at it and see if it could be an issue related to a weak spark? I've never had any problems cranking over, if it's a weak spark, shouldn't the car gradually get harder to start, instead of going from an instant start to no start? Also, the coil only reads 10 volts with the key in the "on" position, could it be too weak to produce a good spark during compression and cause it to not start?

I'm in McKinney fairly often. I'm driving my Z over from Florida and staying from late April to mid June.

Anything in South Florida?

Fluid is brand new but its whatever the shop put in it. I'll read up on trans fluids and see what you guys recommend. Shifter bushing is ordered. The shifter has quite a bit of play, so even if it doesn't fix the jam problem, it'll help with the play problem. Yeah, we're having different issues. I've never had it jammed in gear, it's always been jammed between gears.

I'm shifting fast, but not fast like I'm racing. If I shift casually its notchy, if its fast they get stuck. I've never banged gears with this transmission, I've only had it for about a month. I bought it from a member here who promised it worked great. I've only had the issue happen going from 1-2 and 3-4. Looks like its time to buy a third transmission to put in the car so I can keep driving while I fix the other one.

Update, more info about the problem. Will not jam with engine off and clutch in or clutch out. Will not jam on idle. ONLY jams when moving. Jams harder and more often at higher RPMs. Shifting is smooth with clutch in and car stationary and with the car off. Shifting is notchy when car is moving. At low speeds (when the exhaust is quiet), going from first to second is notchy and I hear a sort of "thunk" noise from outside the car as soon as it hits the notch. It then gets past the notch and goes into second. So, syncros? Spoke to some guys in the chat and I tested the transmission with the car off and they said it was air in the lines. But now that I know it only does it when the car is moving, it's leading me to believe otherwise.

Sorry Steve, that's too far from me. Still looking for something in the North Florida area.

Bump. Would consider a 4 speed.

I've got two half working 5 speeds. I need a 5 speed to put in my car while I tear the other two apart and make a frankenbox. Looking for something near Jacksonville Florida.

Fluid is brand new, the transmission sat dry for about 4 years and was filled a bit over a month ago when I put it in the car. I haven't seen any leaks under the car but I'll crack her open to make sure that it's still well filled. That diagram is incredibly helpful, I was looking for something like that to tear apart my old transmission and replace anything worn and broken. Thanks a lot guys.

I'll start to look into the current transmission and try to isolate the problem. I have a second 5 speed with a bad shaft (can't remember if it's input or output). Do you guys think I could salvage parts from that one and just put them on the working transmission?

Haven't looked at them but they're probably pretty bad. The shifter is sloppy at best.