ISPKI
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Posts posted by ISPKI
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I have the floor cut back to the first cross rail, formed and rebuilt the mating firewall flange behind the fender and have the bottom of the frame (that was warped and rotted) cut out and a 1/8" piece formed to be welded in tomorrow hopefully. Pictures on that progress to come this afternoon.
Does anyone have any pointers for replacing the floor panels? Currently, I am thinking I will just cut out the entire frame and floor as I have new frame rails and floor pans to go in but I am somewhat concerned about keeping the chassis straight, albeit, there is almost no weight in the car at this point.
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Hey guys. So I am swapping a small block 302 into my 77 280z and have sold the engine to help fund it. I have a bunch of left over parts and I am not sure if they are worth trying to sell;
Complete intake manifold, cleaned and refreshed, new hoses, lines, cleaned inside and out with all electronics and linkage still attached.
3spd AT
Radiator
A/C radiator
drive shaft
Original distributor
280zx digital distributor
original ECU
brand new in box ECU
Most of the electrical in the car is going to be stripped out, this includes the entire engine bay harness, capacitors, relays, etc.
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Frame and firewall behind and above the frame is patched up. Started cleaning out the rotted floor and outter fender area. Also - Pulled back all the rusty fuel lines and dropped the fuel tank out in preparation for torching out the pass side floor. I have NOS floor panels to go in.
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Heya folks. I finally got enough projects and customers out of my shop to bring my 77 280z in and start fixing it. Started off by stripping everything out of the engine bay and repairing the passenger side frame, fender walls, firewall, and floor.
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32 minutes ago, calZ said:
The whole purpose of this swap is to do something cheap and readily available. If you use a material that requires heat treating and a specialty welder, you alienate almost the entire target market.
4130 doesnt require a specialty welder, it requires the correct filler wire, technically it doesnt require heat treat either if welded in it's annealed state (although the benefits are greatly minimized aside from corrosion resistance if left in an annealed state).
Most of my experience is in high tech welding where the embrittlement is a non issue. I would like to look into seeing if my company can provide this welding service but I doubt we could do it cheap enough for the market. We would probably be looking at around 240$ per set.
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5 hours ago, jpndave said:
Out of curiosity Dave, what type of "Mild Steel" are you referencing? I read a bit through those links you posted and they are talking about 1080 mild steel which last I checked is classified as a high carbon steel. Annealed 4130 would be superior in every way to a mild steel, albeit only marginally without a significant investment for heat treatment. The strength gains probably would not justify the added costs of even the base material since you could just beef up the mild steel slightly to meet the strength of the 4130.
The primary concern I have with trying to weld super thick MS is that the joints would need to have extremely deep bevels in order to achieve full penetration. 1in thick 1018 is strong and all, but it is useless if you cant achieve CJP which would require at least a .375" deep U joint (I would go even deeper if using a 110v MiG).
Regardless, the pirate 4x4 information is quite interesting. Especially the notes on stress and failure analysis. I happen to use the same program at my work to perform the same stress analysis for the various industries that my company does business in.
InvincibleExtremes: If you were so interested, I could probably create your designs in the software that I have and run a series of stress tests on it using a range of different materials. If that is something that you would like to pursue, then shoot me a PM and we can talk about it.
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All good points there JPNDave. 4130 requires a welding process that is better controlled than what mild steels require, the payoff is that you can use less material and achieve a tougher, stronger and longer lasting part that can be made with less material. The less material benefit is something that should be seriously considered for this type of part, especially if the joints are going to be MiG welded. Using less material will allow you to consistently hit your penetration depth easier which could make it alot easier for most people to perform the finished welds on these parts.
While it is recommended to preheat 4130 and post stress relieve it, we have not seen these practices as required when using conventional welding machines. These practices may be required depending on how the 4130 was formed or if it is being welded post heat treatment or in a pre-hard state. My company has never encountered stress cracking or embrittlement issues when welding 4130 in it's annealed state using conventional welding techniques. The carbon content is not quite high enough to necessitate the heat treatment post weld. 4140 and up is when we have started seeing the need for the pre and post heat.
Any machine shop worth their salt isnt going to have an issue machining 4130. Mild steel can certainly be machined at higher feed rates, but 4130 is by no means difficult to machine.
I had assumed the cost would be higher for 4130 as well but I looked at a few local suppliers and the prices were not much higher than 1018. That will likely change based on your location and supplier though.
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If you get this project going with enough interested parties, maybe you could offer it in different materials, for an increase in cost obviously.
4130 would be an ideal alloy, great for conventional welding, much higher strength and toughness than low carbon alloys, far better stability during the welding process and the high % of Nickel and Chromium resists corrosion in case customers do not want to incur the extra expense of coatings. Cost would be somewhat higher depending on your supplier, although McMasterCarr has similar size material for similar pricing to low carbon steels.
If anyone needs the welding done, shoot me a PM.
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On 5/19/2018 at 9:28 PM, caperix said:
Looking good, I like the options this opens up. One question, did you look into putting sn97 cobra bearings & hubs into the factory Datsun struts? They are very close in outside diameter & it may be easier than making a whole new upright.
That is something that I was wondering as well, although I was looking into how to adapt the datsun hub assy to accept a cv spline shaft. That may be better for some of our applications, but this build seems more universally useful.
What did you use to attached the bottom of the knuckle to the control arm? Is it just a threaded rod or is there more to it that isnt visible?
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What material are you fabricating it from?
What are you looking at for the welding process?
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22 hours ago, Invincibleextremes said:
I also stated in a later post why I will not be using the explorer 8.8, I'd be more than happy to build you a mount, but it's not something I will be producing full time.
Oh, i didnt see where you posted that. I will likely build my own mount specific to my setup but im still interested in your process and how you are designing your custom knuckle.
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You said in your initial post that this setup could use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 by simply using 31 splines instead of 34 on the end of the CV joint. Would it also work for older 8.8s out of explorers? I have an 01 out of a mountaineer that I believe is identical to the 02 explorer 8.8; 3.73 gear, LSD, 31 spline, disc brakes.
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Have you looked into having the axles cut and then welded rather than resplined? If they need to be shortened, it may be possible for a high tech welding shop to simply weld the two halves back together.
Although, if it only costs 75$ ea to have them cut and splined then high tech welding may not make sense.
Do you know if the shop that is cutting the splines is going to induction heat treat the splines as well? Not sure if this applies to all axle shafts but I have read that it is common for only the splines to be induction hardened.
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Last I had read, the 8.8 swap is almost just as much work as an R200 short nose, or maybe doing an IRS 8.8 is just as much work?
I have a perfect 8.8 for the swap, 3.73 geared, limited slip with discs. I don't really care about keeping the IRS, so if it is in fact easier and cheaper to swap in the 8.8, then I can definitely use that.
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Oh, geez didn't notice that, thanks.
I have done a bit of research on the rear differentials. G35s have quite a bit more power than a 5.0 puts out stock, rated for over 260hp and ft/lbs stock.
The 5spd MTs and ATs seem to have an open differential unless they have the tire and wheel package. However, the Open differential has an electronic system that seems to brake the slipping wheel enough to allow you to burn both tires.
The 6MT cars have V-LSD differentials that seem to be very stout, although I have read that hard tracking will heat up the viscous fluid and reduce it's effectiveness temporarily. There are quaife and OBX upgrades for these differentials. I believe these are the same differentials use in 350z and 370z cars which may explain the decent aftermarket following.
Looking up the VLSDs on ebay, I was able to find a few for around 200$.
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Hey guys, with a lot of new cars out on the market, I was wondering if anyone has looked into new potential rear differential swaps.
I have seen a number of Infiniti G35s come up for sale for parts for very low prices. These are 3.5L V6 that come in either RWD or AWD. The rear differentials seem to be fairly priced. Curious if anything has looked into modifying one of these to fit our S30 chassis vehicles.
I am working on a 5.0 swap into my 77 280z that will require a much beefier rear end than my R180 open diff. Starting power goal will be around 250hp and 300ft/lbs at the wheels.
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Ah bummer. Has anyone ever looked into the rear differentials in Mazda's RX-8? They are helical torsen design and supposed to be fairly tough.
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20 hours ago, Neverdone said:
The R230 for the most part comes out of a Z32 300zx turbo. You can also get the R200 out of a 89-95 Q45 which also comes with an LSD.
Mounting them has always been a bit of an issue as they are shaped vastly different than the longnose R200 or stock R180.
There are some options currently out there, and they are well built, but they aren't cheap. But nothing that's really good usually ever is.
I also read that Nissan Armada SUVs use an R230 as their front differential. Might be able to find one of those in a junkyard.
What differential do post 2000 maximas use?
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Yeah the 1st gen EFI system in the mustangs were very unreliable. The only other big piece of this puzzle is the rearend, I still havent sourced one. I was looking at trying to find an r230 but they seem to be just as difficult to find as an LSD r200.
I did find that Mercedes benz used r230 rears in a number of mid 2000s sedans, but i believe they are geared pretty low, around 2.75 or something. Not sure if that would be very good in my setup but they are filthy cheap on ebay.
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On 10/27/2017 at 1:17 AM, 240zdex said:
Any update on your project I'm extremely interested in all of your output as we're doing just about the same build.
i bought a 86 gt with a WC 5speed for crack head prices and knew it had bad rings and found a 97 explorer 5.0 for $50 and sbf rpm carb intake I was going to source a set of gt40 heads.
I forgot what year distributor I bought but it's the steel gear one and plan on swapping cams before I put the engine in so it will match.
last few things I need are a carb, linkages,coil,plugs,wires,air filter,and gauges or the volt converter from ttt to use the stock gauges.
if you manage to get the fuel injection to work relatively cheap and easy please let me know because I was going to use the 86 wiring and ecu but after a few min search found the 86 to be the worst year of the 5.0 efi
Hey! Yeah ive been spending a lot of time over on Corral forums figuring out the 5.0.
I pulled the engine and the entire electrical system out of the mountaineer without damaging it. Something I didn't realize was that this is the post-modular EFI system which does not use a distributor. Supposed to be a much more robust and efficient system with much better tuning options but the options aren't as well documented as the older EFI systems. Engine is currently sitting on my crane, waiting for bolts to mount it to my stand. I just dragged the mountaineer out of my shop.
I am looking at two options for the EFI system. I can either use the factory EFI system and buy a quarterhorse or F75 chip from Moates. That will allow me to tune and control the Factory ECU. This is required for a number of reasons; The ECU will be in limp mode because I wont have the AT which also means I wont have the VSS signal that was from the AT. Also - The passive anti theft system will need to be deactivated. The quarterhorse setup will run me about 500$ for the hardware and software.
Alternatively, I could use the Megasquirt 2 DIY kit which is ~350-450$ with the harness and software. This is fully programmable and bypasses the security and what not.
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30 minutes ago, NewZed said:
The easiest, closest thing to a bolt-in, option might be one of these - https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-1970-78/240z-280z-diff-differential-axles-lsd/ They are hard to find on the open market, the CL's and eBay's don't have many.
You can also get an open R200 and convert it to LSD with one of these - https://www.whiteheadperformance.com/?s=differential&post_type=product
Neither of these are bolt-in because you'll need a different mustache bar, and modified propeller (aka drive) shaft.
If you try to run all of that torque through an open R180 diff you'll probably just break it right away or it will wear out from spinning one wheel.
Thanks for the links there bud, bookmarked both of them. I was already assuming that I would need to have a driveshaft made. The mustache bar wont be an issue as I have all the tools needed to fabricate them. I have the prints from the Laine web page on my computer.
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My 77 280z was a 3 spd auto, I believe it has an R180, 3.54 open. I dont think any R200 will be a direct bolt in
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What are the ideal R200 donors? 300zx? 240sx? Are there any other vehicles (non-nissan) that are also potential donor swaps that I should be looking out for?
Finally: Full Restomod
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Next up is going to be the bottom of the frame. I am going to replace the sections under the firewall prior to cutting out the entire floor region. Should have it all welded and cut out so I can start fitting my NOS floors by the end of the weekend.