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Everything posted by ISPKI

  1. Hey all, My co worker got his hands on a to be junked subaru SVX for free. Was sitting in an abandoned shop building for a while that he acquired, hooligans came by and smashed out all the windows, interior got a ton of water in it, etc etc. Long story short, he is going to strip it for parts before junking it since these are fairly rare. I wanted to know if anyone has ever swapped the rear differential of an AWD SVX into a S30. I would be looking to swap it into my 77 280z which had been an AT car with an R180 open. It has been converted to a 5.0 5 spd and I am looking
  2. Do you happen to have a spare MT pedal assembly? Looking to convert my 3 speed AT to MT
  3. I am converting my 77 280z 3 speed auto over to a v8 5 speed MT and am looking for a pedal assembly to use. Not sure which years can work.
  4. I believe I may have mine from my 77 280z. I will check and get back to you.
  5. What are your plans for the 2jz?
  6. A few pictures of the work done to get these headers to fit my engine. This engine has the GT40P heads which have an odd spark plug angle. There was only one company making headers for these (ford) but they stopped making them years ago and the only ones I could find are many hundreds of dollars. Flow isnt going to be ideal but I have a new design I am working on that should be much more gradual. Also - Getting alot of tig welding practice in. I was finally getting the hang of it once I got to the collector flange.
  7. Hey all. So I have had my 1977 280z for around 7 years now. Drove it for a couple when I first bought it. Started having issues with the L-Jet system. Spent a while troubleshooting but the more I fixed the more I found items that needed fixing. Ended up moving into an apartment, then bought a house, sold the house, etc. barely worked on it for a few years. My now fiance and I bought a farm house with a big ole workshop (about 2500sqft, 3 bays, 1 dumptruck bay) and I got back into making my dream car just that. I decided now was the time to do it right. My Z had rotted floors, rotte
  8. Hey all, I am moving this project over to the member's project area since I am just about done with most of the major fabrication work and starting to work on electrical.
  9. Possibly interested in the R200 long nose. Are you willing to ship it to CT?
  10. Here it is. Little dusty from sitting in its box for the last few years. I couldn't find the harness connector unfortunately but the internal wires are red and green
  11. I am pretty sure I have a 79-83 non turbo 280ZX distributor that I had swapped into my 77 280z. Ended up selling the motor and no longer need the distributor. I am going to grab some pictures of it because I dont recall if it is a NON turbo 280zx distributor but from what I understood, that was the one used to swap into the S30 280z to eliminate the points ignition module correct? I "believe" it has a brand new magnet in it that has effectively zero running miles on it as I had replaced that and the stator years ago when I first got it (dont ask me for the source, I cant remember back tha
  12. Ya know mine in my 77 280z were actually not that bad!, I replaced a couple feet on the outside and about 10 inches on the top but the only area on the bottom that was rotted was right around where it met the firewall. The rest of the bottom appeared pretty OK all the way up to the engine crossmember. There is a divider piece inside the frame over in front of the firewall that was rotted out on mine which was extremely difficult to replace. Doing 1 panel at a time, taking your time and dont try to replace everything at once should keep that frame structurally sound, especially having the engin
  13. That is definitely repairable on the surface but be prepared to have to replace at least twice as much as what looks rotted. Fortunately, that rot is forward of the engine cross member so I doubt you will have any structural issues. The inside can be extremely difficult to access, damn near impossible in alot of cases. I did a ton of repair work between the firewall and the cross member and I actually ended up cutting out the bottom of the frame in a long segment to make sure I got most of the rust. After welding in fresh coated steal, I drilled a hole open in the frame and sprayed in rust ref
  14. Welp, I have hit a slight snag in the project. I fabricated the transmission crossmember and bolted that in. Everything is mounted up currently. I started running electrical stuff, fitting the harness, upper intake etc. My snag is when I tried to mount the upper intake, the rear bolt hole is hitting the hood latch at the firewall with almost an inch left to go on it. Also - This is a 2nd generation explorer motor with a taller, higher performance intake. The upper intake is a bit taller than the older EFI intakes and looks like it wont clear the hood. I will likely have to cowl th
  15. Well, ended up yanking the filter adapter out of the arm that was on the block, turned it down and it ended up working just fine. Picked up a bellhousing and fork for the T5 and got it bolted on and test fit into the car. Shifter comes thru the trans tunnel about an inch or two forward of the Automatic shifter location. I had studs in the top mounting holes of the bellhousing that were hitting the firewall so it will go back a little bit more once I get bolts in there.
  16. Having a hell of a time trying to install a summit oil filter relocation kit at the moment. Not really understanding how this snap ring is supposed to fit or how these inserts are supposed to line up or how I am supposed to remove the threaded nut from the block.
  17. Yeah thats the design im doin. Good to know about the extra beef. I am going to do one thread insert in the frame tubes and just use a long bolt. That should be good enough and I will be able to remove them if need be. I ended up cutting the center section as my 45 degree tubes werent 45 degrees and the oil pan was bottoming out on the cradle. I reset the angle pieces to ~44.5 degrees, lowered the center tube by 2" and rewelded it. Did one seam inside the tube, then made some heavy 1/4" gussets formed on my anvil and welded those in. I think it should be plenty stout and the engine
  18. Nah no bushings on the cradle side. The other piece to this is a 2" wide steel "U" that will cross bolt through the 45 angular tubes. That "U" has a 9/16" hole in the top where the motor mounts on the engine will go. Using motor mounts out of a 1983 F150 with a 302. Seem to line up well and are vulcanized rubber mounts so I shouldnt need any bushings frame side. The "U" that Layne used were 3/16" plates folded to shape, mine are 1/4" groove welded on top with a 3/8" fillet weld inside. Should be excessively strong for the application. I have to try and get the engine in
  19. No, it is similar in design to Brian Layne's motor cradle with some minor tweaks (mostly mounting). I did not see if he used horizontal mounting points, all I saw in his write up were two top bolts plus one bolt thru the steering cross member. I am going to do 2 top, 2 sides, 1 thru the steering cross member. This is mostly due to the engine that I am working with being much newer and probably capable of putting out a little more power, plus I may procharge it down the road, who knows. Unfortunately, his drawings do not show the depth of the center cross member relative to
  20. Hiya folks, I have been test fitting the 302 engine into my 77 280z. Following Brian Layne's instructions and designs with slight modifications for my particular engine and I have run into a slight snag. My motor is out of a 2001 mercury mountaineer. I need to lower the engine another inch on the motor mounts but I am bottomed out on the oil pan. I checked the oil pan that Brian has on his parts list which is marked as a Dual Sump pan, however it is not a dual sump pan when I look it up using the summit part#. Just wanted to know, is a dual sump oil pan shorter in that
  21. Arighty. So I spent some time shaving the brackets out of the engine bay, removing A/C lines and what not. I picked up my buddy's load leveller for the hoist and have the engine almost in position. However, the oil pan is touching the engine cradle and the motor mounts still need to come down another inch or so to line up with the cradle. I will have to wait to get it mounted until I can find a front sump or dual sump oil pan. In the meantime, I completed the frame insert tubes for the mounting studs on the driver side. Going to start working on the passenger side this
  22. Here is how the frame inserts look. It was a real pain to weld into the bottom of the frame
  23. Awesome, glad to know im on the right track. I made one of the tube inserts last night out of some steel tube that I had laying around. Not super heavy wall but I bet it doesnt really need to be all that heavy. Seemed like maybe 1/16" wall thickness, 3/4" OD roughly. I think the thread insert on both ends of the tube adds a level of complication that isnt really necessary. I ended up having the thread insert on the top, pressed in a nut into the bottom of the tube, then threaded a bolt through both so it protruded out the top by about an inch. I then drilled 1" holes thru top and bottom o
  24. Thank you! your car in your sig looks fantastic! Been a bit but ive been working hard on the Z. Driver's side floor and floor frame support are welded in. Went a little better than the passenger side, the floor under the seat rails was not rotted the way the passenger side was so I only installed half the floor pan and didnt cut out the cross members, made for alot less work. I also test fit the 302 into the engine bay! I have Brian Layne's engine cradle print and fabricated the materials at work (CNC machining is so much nicer than grinding at home). I have the engine
  25. So I have had the Z on hold for a bit this winter unfortunately. Finished up a bathroom in the house and fixing the fueling system on my log truck, but I am back at it! Last night I cut out the driver side floor frame and spent a solid hour in 7 degree temps grinding away the rubber insulation and paint to prep the weld areas for welding. Finished the night test fitting the floor panel. Tonight, I am planning on finishing the weld prep and continue fitting the floor pan. Also taking a slightly different approach to this side. My floor area under the seat rai
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