Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Oh, I answered this two years ago. Dejavu all over again!
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The 91 sensor goes directly into the earlier transmissions. You don't change the pinion, you change the WHOLE ASSEMBLY, and just alter it to fit (cutting a flat with a Dremel for the retainer 180 degrees from the stock location makes the VSS "universal fitment"! Same or changing speedo pinion s, no need to change the carrier, just modify it...)
The only difference is wether you have to rotate it 180 degrees. Basically there are only two locations to the pinion "hi" and "low" and that is accomplished by turning the holder 180 degrees. If its not engaging the tranny drive gear (tranny before 79/80 I believe) then rotate it 180 and it will engage. You will have to cut the flat for the retainer in this new location (in the vss body) -- teeth on the pinion is totally irrelevant as is rear gear, you will use the "calibrate" function on the speedo to know what number of pulses occur in a mile...and you're done!
Good luck!
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Leaks with synthetics are traced to usually two things: the synthetics ability to "wick", due to low surface tension characteristics, or incompatibility with seals used in older engines. In some cases oil manufacturers would claim their product would stop leaks because the composition would "swell" seals. Such marginal effects are rare these days--the oil either works, or you find dissolved seals in your pan!
There are some synthetic glycols used as oils that have a TERRIBLE wicking propensity...the entire engine or gearbox will eventually get a sheen of oil on it regardless! (Techtrol Gold III is one...)
Engines that use machined fits need supplementary sealants designed for these types of service to seal effectively. But new sealants are hard to get old timers to use in old machinery... "I done it for 30 years with Permatex #2 and it don't leak with the old oil...so why shouldn't it seal with the new oil?" Generally it is traced to surface prep and sloppy preparation.
We went through this on our assy line in Asia. They wanted O-Rings added, higher bolt torques, etc... When two of us came from the US and did 60 machines, and then traced the machines in the field or three years...(with no leaks-12 months past warranty expiration) the assembly line there begrudgingly changed their choice of prep solvent and suddenly the leaks on their stuff stopped as well!
Compatibility and Proper Prep solves most leak issues. Having a good PCV System helps as well.
Some designs are more prone to leak than others, and you just have to adjust accordingly.
Outside of high-wicking oils, the problem with leaks is engine design and seals, not the oils themself.
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This is slowly changing there as well... but it takes time.
The Tech Inspection Sequence from "World's Fastest Indian" comes to mind as it's not that far from what you really get...
The least of which is that the car was going over 175mph meaning long-course runs. Judging by the inspection stickers this was 2009, the 60th Anniversary of Speed Week.
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My FRP copy is exact... muahahahaha, and documented as such!
My stock, and my aftermarket FRP you couldn't touch right now for anywhere near the prices you are mentioning. Not from me, at least!
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The VV Control on the Dodge and Ford is a PWM solenoid as I understand it, 5amp circuit. You can drive it with the Megasquirt PWN circuitry...
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Exactly... I always had an issue with the wedges you had to 'hammer' in--this uses friction fit from the wedge pushing the chain against the guides to hold tension and maintain the tensioner shoe position. Having had one "pop" before put it in the 'unacceptable to use' column in my tool box, and the plastic one was bought. Maybe it fits down inside and does the same thing without the tactile 'click' of the fancy plastic one.
You feel it push past the tensioner, and nothing is forced, or can be forced awry. I like the feeling of being past the tensioner shoe, I know it's in place and holding then.
My personal preference is to not 'wedge' anything in place when at all possible to avoid it, despite my avatar!
For the price, as gollum says.... I can't make it for that much! If I was a woodsmith with a fine scroll saw, I would copy it in some nice tropical hardwood...maybe teak or that Philippine Iron Wood. Then polish it. I'd make several, as they would evaporate much faster than the blue plastic ones, I'm sure!
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My first thought was exactly as Mateo found: generally as corrosion builds, the performance starts suffering at the top of the rpm range and eventually gets to the point where most people drive...then they notice it and start looking (usually evidenced as posts of "My Z won't rev above XXXX rpms under load, but when I check it in the driveway by hand I can redline it."
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"Also before any members blast me for the following questions Im about to ask, I've spent the past 6 hours doing searches and was unable to get any clear or solid answers. ...
1st question is how much power will the 3 speed automatic transmission handle, the little bit of info I've found is that with just boosting the car may cause transmission to start slipping. With that being said has anyone attempted to build the 3 speed automatic?"
Obviously in this exhaustive search, you missed Bernard's myriad comments & advice on the subject.
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I forget the place, but there IS a service out there for re-webbing classic car seatbelts. They can make just about any length you would want, with the caveat on retracting belts that there is a sewed-in stop and the extra not-originally retracted belt excess is somewhat left hanging.
I have the seat all the way back....uh.... close but still not needing extenders! Whew!
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That Powerbuilt unit looks VERY similar in shape to the old plastic one I had stolen...
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I was so busy in Manly doing the failure investigations, I didn't even have time to properly hoon the Mercedes I hired!
Such a shame!
Hooning before phone calls!
Oy!
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It's popular in Japanese Tuner Magazines now to fit injectors to an existing Mikuni Setup, strip out the venturis, and tune the EFI to see what they get. In every case I've seen, it's been an advantage in peak and power under curve. It's basic physics, less pumping losses means more efficiency.
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The reason they did it is clearly written on the side of the car: "XO"
It's a vintage class. We competed against an XO Ford Pinto running a methanol injected, blown flathead...
What would you want to do: run for top speed in a brick of a 36 Buick,
Or run that same engine in a nice, aero-slick S13?
That's why they did it!
(EDIT) as to the engine "only" displacing this-or-that, remember the classes are by body style and DISPLACEMENT. You can run a 50cc Streamliner, or four synchronised 640CID Donovan Hemis in your Streamliner. One record expectation will be slightly higher than the other. At Bonneville, the "just stuff a big engine in it" crowd usually gets a rude awakening (and curiously finds smaller cars and engines just might be less hairy to learn in!)
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Cart an looking for jewlery... That's all I'm sayin'!
That, and I'm off to Thailand on Tuesday Next....
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Tests at Ford showed aiming the injectors in the mouth of the barrel at a 5 degree angle off dead Center allowing a consistent impingement upon the wall for a consistent Tau layer provided the best throttle response, turn ability, and horsepower. Down the Center was almost impossible to tune. Wetting the wall to stabilise Tau made conventional fuelling easier.
Much experimentation was done to arrive t hat point. Each engine is different, one of the few generalities Cosworth was lucky to dispel was that you somehow lose power wetting a runner wall, on the contrary they found that the wetting added capacitance to the AFR allowing easier tuning. How much to wet is the item that takes experimentation.
SK Triples had e TPS on the upper shaft (no mounts the ITB'S Body to allow closer spacing)--last mounting tower was taped to accept TPS, end if shaft was a "D" configuration, just like the TPS on a Z!
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Consumption is fine... The film strength of the syn oil leads to it being more difficult to "strip" off cylinder walls with he rings. So some stays afterwards and is burned......you don't notice it unless you're really hammering it hard!
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I should have stopped by that week after New Caledonia!
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Two completely different fuelling and performance approaches. You can't apply diesel tech specifics to gas engines!
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The reason or direct injection is again: EMISSIONS!
Transients and cold start are radically improved due to never having an unstable tau layer in the intake manifold.
The fuelling feedback loops for direct injection only become possible with increased reliable processor power. That's why now...
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The fuel, injected above the intake air horn, will take heat out of the manifold and become more homogenous as it goes into the combustion chamber. Homogeneity of the mix leads to good combustion...and lack of fast-burning lean mixtures means lack of possible detonation.
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At one time, I had a beautiful orange chain keeper made of plastic. Not like they sell today, not with sharp angles on it. This was a nice rounded thing with a matched curve to the chain guides and a slight oversize end on it so when you pressed it down the end got past the chain tensioner, pushed it aside, then let the tensioner "snap" back into place to hold everything solidly in place. Never had it fall out, never needed to hammer it in to wedge the chain tightly, just snap in and a light tug to slip back out. It was great.
Some bastard needed it more than me apparently as it disappeared shortly after coming to California. Nobody in Michigan would steal it...it was for them damn furrin cars...
Man I miss that one...
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If it touches, you will HEAR it as well. I don't even want to get into how I know this...but suffice to say even if you find the SLIGHTEST 'hitch' in rolling the engine over by hand....INVESTIGATE THOROUGHLY!
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There are OEM applications similar. A drain petcock is not a necessity, but rather a nicety!
PALLNET FUEL RAILS
in Vendor's Forum
Posted
A DPMS AR15 Tactical 16, Ruger Mini 14, Springfield Armory National Match M1-A, and 1,500 rounds of ammo...
Curiously, it appears I was over-insured, nobody took them from my truck between Slidell and L.A.!