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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

    Vapor engine

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Mileage motors for competition in the 70's~early 80's commonly used it.

     

    They go on one premise: pick a speed and load, dont vary much from it, and then trim to minimum fuel to maintain forward motion and nothing more.

     

    Acceleration? Hillclimbing? Require enrichment and shoot the 100mpg claims in the foot.

     

    If you look at today's high mileage cars, they have CVT's. put engine to its peak efficiency point, trim for it, and keep it there. Same premise.

     

    We didn't have them in 1979... Except on snowmobiles!

     

    The more things change the more they stay the same. That looks like Yunik's Adibiatic Engine, the Fiero he set up to run like that was on sale recently. There are principles that can be leveraged, but the more you leverage them, the more critical each component becomes. One thing off, and you have a cascading catastrophic failure. Not practical for 99.9999999+% of the everyday motoring public.

    Dual injector factory manifold?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Back in the day, with a mildly ported head, I picked up around 25whp with the use of a Thagard intake and retuning to correct the leaner AFRs, with no other changes. This was at the 380--390 whp/20Psi level. I could be wrong, but it looked to me that the stock manifold was beginning to limit flow. If 600+ hp numbers were achieved with the stocker I'm sure we're talking extreme porting to make more than 190 cfm.

     

    Looking at the Electramotive 280Zx Turbo GTO car, at 580 SAE net hp, That intake mani is definitely not stock.

    More bad or misleading information!

     

    The manifold I'm referring to is stock, with extrude honing ONLY. Diameter of the runners isn't even the FIA-Homogolation Legal 35mm, rather a polished 32 mm stocker diameter. The power quoted was at the rear wheels, and was achieved between 6800 to 7200 rpms, depending on the boost being used.

     

    The quoted Electramotive numbers are publicity-only figures, nowhere near what it made. That car utilised a Nissan Comp Triple Manifold (so did the head above using the stock manifold, it's how the inferences were quantified...same porter who did the Electramotive Head in the GTO car, did this head as well...) the Electramotive car made 1,100hp with around 30psig using first generation fuel and ignition controls. For most races it was runnin closer to 740 HP, depending if they needed to make time.

     

    If you actually PORT the stock manifold, it flows more than 190cfm per runner. The 190 was an extrude-honed stock diameter, and it's not a limitation at 650/72~7,400 rpms... Other than it could flow as much as the port (225 CFM)... But when you're making 650hp at 17psi of boost it ones your eyes to some paradigms that aren't necessarily true!

     

    (EDIT) Oh, and to address something stated above, during low-boost setting testing, this engine had a torque reading of 380ft-lbs at 4,500 with 8.39psi boost... The 5,500 "out of breath" phenomenon is PURELY a CAMSHAFT FUNCTION!

    How easy should a cam turn?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Yes, exactly. A shop that works on them all the time would have told you this 40 posts ago.

    Now you're out money and can do the Gollum-Suggested #2 option.

     

    It is a Gene-Berg "if you don't have the money to do it correctly now, when will you find the money to do it over?"

    Sometimes when the machinist says its not repairable (economically is the term they like to use...) they really mean just that!

     

    Stick with the Z-Club, find someone with a used head you can bolt on and run.

     

    You just learned one of my oldest axioms: "I'd rather run a Nissan-Assembled component with 100,000 miles on it than most stuff people have "overhauled" and are selling for some reason only 10,000 miles later!"

     

    Most work is fixing things that aren't broken, or limping things along that should be scrapped!

     

    Sucks, sorry about the painful lesson. I'll be in Houston next week, with a truck... Get a lead on a head anywhere from Chicago/Wisconsin to Dallas, I can pick it up and deliver it to you! (Maybe a whole engin!"

     

    Get on the Internet and with the local club.... I can take shipping out of the equation if you PM me before I pass wherever your new parts are laying!

    How easy should a cam turn?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    This story reveals minimum checks done at EVERY STEP.

     

    The "Blinder's on System of Checking"---go until you find the first thing, then rush to fix it.

     

    A dimensional check on a bare head takes five minutes with a feeler gauge, straightedge, and height checking device like a surface plate mounted height gauge or vernier calliper.

     

    That they are fixing one thing at a time is par for the course for a production shop being told what to do, or being quick to push stuff out and bill for it.

     

    Again, Houston-San Antonio-Dallas ALL have GREAT Z-Car Clubs, with hundreds of active members who can tell you where to go for COMPETENT machine work on the Nissan OHC head...

     

    Pleas avail yourself of this LIVE resource and find a shop that knows what they are doing.

     

    This is turning not the classic pay me now or pay me later scenario...

    S30's 2+2 vs Coupe

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    That will be one hell of a break! I hope you take an "interesting" route, following the old spice road through the former Empire!

    Burma is now open... I've been toying with the idea of a RoRo to Singapore and auto-touring through Malaya, Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and maybe Vietnam.

     

    Rally-Spec 2+2 mandatory! ;)

    How easy should a cam turn?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    NOBODY CAN "ALIGN BORE" THE BEARING SADDLES! You keep refereeing that as some sort of option, as explained before its not! Pete at PMC simply stated what everybody else said, and also confirmed how most production shops do this. It's NOT L-Specific... It's a basic "Marks Machinery" book solution to this type of assembly. If this was to go to an industrial machine shop...the checks they old do using non-dedicated jigs and equipment would stagger your mind. Each non-spec item would then be addressed line-time on the bill.

     

    You're doing a lot of checking without a CLUE what you're looking for, which I see all the time.

     

    People have told you adnauseam the head must be FLAT AND STRAIGHT... That's top and bottom.

    From what you say above your topside is warped some 0.010" after they milled the bottom.

     

    ANY machine shop should know at this point you must take off the top what you cut off the bottom if the height and cut specs exceed a given point. Pursuant to a topside flatness check revealing the actual warpage.

     

    Are you in ANY of the local Z-Clubs? Houston has a buttload of helpful Z-Clubs and an EXTENSIVE list of GOOD L-SAVVY machine shops. It boggles my mind that wasn't your FIRST stop for recommendations when looking for Datsun Headwork. If this shop was suggested by local Z-Club people I would be shocked! I hope this is not the case!

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