Tony D

That looks to be a "Swagelock Thermocouple Connector"...which the lovely people at Swagelock charge a premium for, of course. If you look at their dimensioned drawings, or even their catalogue you can see that the Thermocouple Probe Fitting is EXACTLY the same dimensionally as their Stainless Steel 3/16" (or whatever thermocouple probe size you use: 1/4", 3/8" etc...) TUBE fitting, except the hole goes straight through at tubing diameter, whereas the tubing fittings have a small 'step' and only the I.D. of the tubing is bored straight through. What I did was buy tubing fittings (Oranve Valve and Fitting, now Orange Fluid Systems I believe, in Anaheim---don't ask me why!) and then from the backside, with the nut and furreles removed, simply bored out the fittings from the backside with the appropriately sized drill! They don't always have the TC Fittings in stock, but Swagelock Dealers ALWAYS have tubing fittings you can modify. Just a thought if you want to save the difference in price between Tube Fittings and Thermocouple Fittings. If you really want to cheap out, you can buy Parker A-Lock, or Inperial Eastman Gyro-Lock which are patent infringements...excuse me, 'nearly the same thing' as the Swagelock fittings. Me, I buy Swagelock---if it's good enough for the Space Shuttle, It's good enough fer Da Zed! LOL Forgot to mention, I cut my hole and tapped it pre-turbine in the SPACER I made for the T3 hybrid so the compressor housing would clear the exhaust manifold. My manifold is still untouched, the spacer has two holes one for backpressure readings and one for the thermocouple.

That brace may have some merit on Turbo Applications, I could see them benging enough HP on each cylinder (100+) to really start some twisting. Then again, they usually aren't doing it at much over 7000rpms. Hmmmmm, 8500rpm Turbo L-Engine....hmmmmmmmmmmmm... As for Video, I just realized I have two in-car videos of the thing, and you can see the shiftlight to bang the next gear...it actuates at the aforementioned 93-9500rpms. I just need to edit down the file to the time we are actually making the run and not in the staging lanes and waiting for a tow in the return lanes at theend of the track.

"Supposedly"? I'll take issue with the inference, since we spin ours to 9500 when dyno testing, and it's making peak power slightly over 8800rpm. Shift points in competition is between 9300 and 9500, depending on the gear. We should be going to the dyno next week if all goes well. Maybe I can video it and post something on YouTube as well....

The insidiousness comes from doing it in PM's or via E-Mail. They know it would not be tolerated on the forum, and therefore do it on the sly. Many times they know people won't bring it up---because it's not on the forum and they think it's a private message. My thought: those who did it would be outraged that their private communications were made public and that they got any repercussions from them at all. They hide behind the cloak of implied privacy, and scream like banshees when the cloak is removed. Cowards always do. Hopefully Ernie will see fit to at least give Mike and the other mods the benefit of the doubt and let them in on who was sending what. I mean, think about it: If they are doing it to him, who else are they targeting?

Traditionally, the supercharger is bypassed at idle ONLY. The reason being is the positive displacement, linear delivery of the supercharger will simply overheat the air when an insufficient amount of flow is going through it. Pete (ZYa) was experiencing this on drop-throttle I believe. Temperatures soaring even though there was 'no boost'---well taking -15psia and compressing it to -10 psia is a BIG compression ratio, and makes a LOT of heat. So you bypass it at idle or closed throttle just so the thing doesn't heat up the air excessivley. In this case, on drop-throttle, the supercharger would bypass much like a BOV (which would be routed similarly...though it could be put on the SC Discharge to dump pressure as well...would have to work out those dynamics) and instantly close upon reapplication of the throttle---boost would resume instantly due to high input. There will be tuning issues with having the BOV for the Turbo lag the bypass action of the S/C. You want the Turbo to push air to the S/C simply to keep it's pressure up and spooling. Only once the air stagnates do you want to dump excess Turbo Boost from the plenum to the S/C. Otherwise on reapplication of the throttle, the S/C will be spinning fast, and literally suck the turbo discharge to a vacuum while the turbo tries to catch up... This may make for a better dump valve design in that you use your BOV on the portion of the plumbing between the S/C and the T/B, and just let the turbo stay spooled and use the S/C to keep sucking on it preventing surge. That would probably be the most effetive and troublefree way to do it. Basically what I'm getting at is the S/C needs to bypass at idle for extended periods to prevent heat buildup, but has different on-boost tendencies that would require different venting then...

Reminder: there was a time when every Ford and Volvo that went off the production line got 1/2 a tube of AlumaSeal placed in the radiator... The ammount of reduction innuisance warranty calls was the justification for it. Sometimes it really doesn't take the 'hard way' to fix something that is borderline.

The funny thing is when I was working on Corvairs in the 70's and 80's THE conversion for drivability was to take and do EXACTLY that! if you get an issue of the Corsa Technical Articles, you will find DETAILED instructions on how to adapt the 'simple Datsun 280Z fuel injection' to your 140HP Corvair! The system does not care what it's on, just as long as it's relatively the same displacement, it runs just fine. I converted several Corvairs to EFI for people running them in the winter just because they wanted the better fuel economy and cold starting abilities of the system. I always wanted to do a Turbo Conversion simply because of the T3's wastegate and inherent drivability... But standalones came out that were cheaper---and the effort was judged useless on such a moot point. Though nowadays when someone says "standalone" they aren't really referring to the ability of the system to be independently removed form the vehicle, but rather to a system that is universal and easily programmed to adapt to any engine, regardless of size. No matter which way you slice it, the Datsun EFI will only work in a limited range of engine operational sizes before serious tweaking is required. One thing that was interesting was that Datsun was still supporting those cars then, so one of my customers took his Corvair (while on the road) to the Datsun Dealership in Saginaw Michigan one time to get something checked out... They said 'we don't service GM's here' but when they saw the engine, they about crapped! Apparently they took photos, and forwarded them to the Regional Office for Datsun and Nissan North America. I found that funny. And one of the technicians there took a little while figuring out where everything was, and did his EFI Checks according to Datsun Methodology---and replaced a sensor...away my customer went! There are people that throw up roadblocks because the information doesn't fit in the box, and there are some that realize that regardless of the packaging, the content is the same no matter what!

Ooooh, that IS a neat little gizmo. I most definately have to talk JeffP into buying one of those for his car now! Just so it can match the turnbuckle he has adjusting his alternator! LOL

If you recall one of the early Datsun Tuning books had an LD28 in a 280Z with a turbo on it, giving comparable gasoline engined performance. It's doable. I know Keith Bailey's LD28 Powered 240 got 40+ mpg at 80+ mph average speed, and would do 112mph. The RPM redline on the LD28 isn't as low as you would think, close to 5000 I think---good enough for 125mph with a late ZX Tranny and 3.70 gears (4750 rpm top end speed like my wife's 260)... For the effort, as a daily commuter it might be an interseting project. What the hell 'because I could' has always been enough justification for me to do something automotive related. Free T-Shirt and a Feed will get me to drive ridiculous distances and expend no ammount of effort for that meager reward! Skipped work and spent all day in the Bren Center for a T-Shirt, Cold Hot Dog, and a miniature dixie cup of warm Pepsi... I may be disturbed...LOL

No bag on you, dude, I'm seriously peeved that you can't lube it that way! Having the TEC in our Bonneville car driven off the Crank Trigger in the Dizzy (small wheel setup) instead of truly on the pulley, I never considered the thought we COULD have primed the engine like that before a startup. 14.75:1 CR would have liked some prelube... I swapped in an LD28 Oil Pump Drive spindle when we did the conversion so ne need to support that upper end. I digress, but it still peeves me that I can't lube it like my old Corvair or SBC! I WISH it was that easy. As for N2, I've used that for years, comes from charging similar accumulators in Military Aircraft. You can get a small bottle of N2 and 2-Stage Regulator (Like for welding) pretty cheap. Easily charges tires (which also run N2)---you will be amazed how many tires you can fill off a small container charged fully to 3500 and regulated down to 32psi! Also, the Accumulators on the turbocompressors I service now also spec out N2 for their equipment for the same corrosion concerns---untreated mild steel thinwalled pressure vessels like a pumps' water bladder. Rust through in about three years using utility air. Last 20+ years using N2. Cheap insurance if nothing else. The aluminum accumulators on military equipment all use N2 for moisture prevention. Airplanes and race cars go hand in hand IMO. Goose/Gander comparo!

Ernie, reconsider. Make a file in your e-mail basket called "Hate Mail" and get familiar with "Block Sender"---the expertise you impart is far more important to more people than the few who whine and throw stones. I really like people who think ANY idea is 'stolen'---any artist will freely admit they stole any of their ideas from someone else (if they are honest)---people who think they have a truly original idea usually are ignorant of the truith surrounding the subject. Anyway, I say this as someone who (on another forum) has had concerted efforts to 'make me go away'---i.e. three or four guys filling my e-mail box daily with 3-400 mails to drive me away. I did leave 'there' for about a month so the kiddies would go back to school, and when they came back at christmas break, guess what, I had been there all along. Don't let the bastards grind you down. Don't give it up. Stay for the help you know you can give, and 'block sender' with vigor after making an appropriate comment in kind.... Muahahahaha! Tony D, still at "The Other Place" with over 20K posts.... Much to the haters chagrin. Like Syphillis, you can't get rid of me THAT easily! I'm the bunghole resistant version! LOL So should you be!

The only difference is that S130's after 81 had an O2 sensor. Turbos had some more vacuum lines to operate some vaccum operated valves, but in Europe they had the same diagram as above! No O2 feedback, just plain programmed fueling. People want to make it much harder than what it really is, and even to this day, when you distill it the componenets are still the same, even for standalones. if you understand the original Bosch System in the photo, you can understand them all, as the inputs don't change, only the way they process some of the signals (MAP versus AFM versus MAF for example. All do the same thing, just in a different way...)

Most pressure washers put out around 2 to 3.5 GPM of water at pressure. Blast for 8 hours a day, 480 minutes, roughly 1000 gallons of water contaminated with grease, heavy metals, et al that must be treated before being sewered legally. Opposed to recycled dry media that can be easily sifted and reprocessed, with the dry off-takings being legal to landfill with no treatment whatsoever. This is similar to it being illegal to dump a gallon can of housepaint in a landfill, but open it dump it onto boards or mix it with sand and let it dry...then you CAN landfill it! Liquid waste is a bugger to treat and legally work with. This is a preferred way for low-cost grafitti removal, and for home usage. But for someone doing large scale stuff, it would get costly having to deal with 1000 gallons, per day, per workstation of sewerage and treatment costs. Figure most shops usually have four to eight guys working jobs at the same time...you can see those volumes add up quickly.

Until I was almost 30, the same was true for me as well!

Generally, Water to Air I/C's in gasoline engines will use a surge tank and dedicated water cooler, not the engine coolant. In this manner, the water acts like a heat sink for on-off-on boost situations. The thermal mass of the water soaks up the heat, and the water constantly circulates giving heat off to the air inbetween boost excursions. Bosch makes a nice pump (P/N 0 392 022 002) that works EXCELLENT in Water-to-Air exchanger to exchanger water transfer. You can pick it up at most Ford Dealers stateside as well as Ford P/N M-8501-L54. I figure with Frank being in Europe, he will probably be able to order Bosch Parts by their P/N easier than a Ford P/N. Pump uses standard AMP Timer connection (Bosch Standard EFI Fuel Injector Connector). Body Parts ready, and Nino will be home next weekend, so I will have assistance loading the aforementioned parts into the container for shipping to Rotterdam...

Yeah, post a photo, I know the basic piece you are talking about, but not the add-on gizmo. And since the link to the Yahoo Auction is dead in regards to a photo as far as I can see....welll I WANT TO SEE! Besides, it will be one more thing to goad Priddy out of his money! LOL "Hey Jeff, did you see that cool Gizmo Kameari has available for their cam chain tensioner?" Muahahahahaha!

Only available motor for Japanes Spec Cars after June of 1972... Nothing but the L20A available till the S130 arrived in June of 1978... (Save for the few recalled L26's that got out there, but that's not significant enough to even mention but for the fact someone may be pedantic enough to call me on it...)

/Pet Peeve On Again/ Doesn't the oil pump drive spindle drop out the bottom on the L-Engine? So drop the pump, remove the spindle, reinstall the pump and spin it to prime, charge the accumulator, drop the pump, reinstall the spindle and pump loosing prime to the pump again.... I mean, on a Chevy it's a piece of cake 'cause it comes out the top, but on the Datsun IMO its a bit PITA. /Pet Peeve Off/ Removing the plugs and cranking may be counterproductive to what you want to accomplish but here is another idea: What we had made up overseas was an old Air Rechargable Water Fire Extinguisher. We would prefill the appropriate oil into the thing, pressurize it with air, hook the discharge hose to a fitting on the oil system. To discharge it you simply pushed down on the valve, priming the engine. We did NOT prefill the sump, we put say 5 quarts of oil into the thing, and then filled the sump through pressurizing the oil stem through the oil pressure sender. This gave us plenty of prelube, including to the top end, as well as fully charging the engine's oil pan with the service amount of lubricant... Then it's a matter of starting the engine, and activating the Accusump to get charged. You could do it while filling as above, just add more to the fire extinguisher. Really, any pressure vessel with an easy open top and bottom suction hose for discharge would work. You could use one of those Harbor Freight Fluid Transfer Pumps and siphon it out of the oil cans, or a bucket and pressurize it externally that way as well. Whatever you do, DON'T screw with the precharge on the Accusump! They are charged with dry nitrogen to prevent corrosion. If you fill with regular compressed air, the internal components likely will have moisture put to them and corrode in time. If you can't find a small pump, your only alternative may be to simply crank the engine with the plugs out, or do as suggested above and drop the pump, make a spindle tool, and go through the whole rigamarole... Cheers!

57 Vs 50" huh? Maybe just the driveline will go in then...muahahaha!

1) Correct, adding lube to the lines is bad. Most shops have a 'Dry Line' and a 'Lubed Line'---even going so far as to use different color hoses for each. I have YELLOW hoses I use on Oiled lines (get it, yellow for the color of oil?) and BLUE lines that are NOT TO BE USED WITH OIL (get it, blue for pure air?) IMO, you are best plumbing your whole system as "Dry" and adding FRL (Filter/Regulator/Lubricators) at points where you will add the hose for the tool. I have set up people's home systems with large Q-D's on the tank, and then hook up either a Lube setup when they are using tools, or a non lube setup with a dryer and filter when they are painting. Definately do something to keep oil out of your air lines that you will be painting with. 2) Not really, but the ability of the regulator to flow what you need is more important. I usually set up the regulator at the tank out of the side fitting with a regulator that is 3/4" in pipe size, from this I usually put a coalescing filter to knock out any moisture that may migrate out of the tank, to a series of valved "T's" in manifold form from the Stainless Steel Section at Home Depot. You regulate down at the tank to 120 or even 100psi, and the standard 125psi fittings are fine to use---do not use BIP, Carbon Steel, or anything that corrodes! From the "T's Manifold" since each take off is valved, you can hook up smaller, point of use regulators to drop the line pressure to your gun or tool as needed. The key is to keep the high pressure air in the tank where you can easily control leaks. After that point, using properly sized air lines you can easily run 100 psi out to them and have sufficient flow to drive most anything. And anything that does leak is leaking at a reduced pressure, minimizing losses. 3) I'll come back to this one in an edit. The single cannsiter unit is simply a filter/dryer cartridge---I would use this on the PAINTING lines. I have that exact same filter regulator unit and have had it since 1985 - 86 when I originally started painting my Z overseas. This is a unit to use on the YELLOW lines. The 'two cannister' units are FRL's (Filter, Regulator, Lubricator) and would b e used when you are running air tools. The 1/2" size Orange unit would be the one I'd buy, and then bush down for whatever pipe or hose size Q-D you decide on using. The reason being is the lubricator bowl is bigger, and the bigger it is, the more oil you have to go through before refilling it. Also, since the filter is larger in surface area, it will go longer picking up swarf from your system without getting clogged. Additionally, a larger filter housing (oversized in relation to actual flow) will actually slow down the air quite abit, and allow more moisture to coalesce out and be trapped by the filter element. Kaeser uses this fact to their advantage by selling people oil flooded screw units fitted with humongous filters that need changing every five years---but the surface velocity across the media is so low that there is minimal pressure drop and filtration efficiency is sky high wen dealing with oils and aerosols to drop out---they market it as an 'oil free package'. Just because they have a lubricator on it doesn't mean you need to install it! I have just used the filter and regulator section---it's not like they are expensive, so letting them sit till you need them elsewhere in the system is not a biggie. The last regulator is trash, and simply a restriction in the line, it only regulates when the line is flowing---and is a stopgap against not properly regulating the flexible line pressure at point of hookup to the distribution system. People do this all the time, run a higher line pressure becuase they are using components that are too small to begin with! Size stuff correctly and you will never need one of those. 4) As I said above, you could do that, but then you are going back to the big regulator and constantly adjusting it for the tools you have with different pressures. If you have a Big Reg to drop it from storage pressure to close to maximum point of use pressure (say 100psi) then each of your manifolded lines could be set to different pressures. 45 for the HVLP on a Blue Hose to your gun, and 90 through an FRL on a Yellow Line to your air ratchet or impact. The key thing to remember with regulation is to regulate as close to point of use as possible---that way the high pressure air is there in the line for flow demands on startup. 5) I'll come back to this one in an edit as well, but generally the smaller point of use regulators are throwaway, so those I get anywhere. For the large one on the tank, as well as it's filter/coalescer I go with a brand name like Arrow Pneumatics, Ingersoll-Rand, Dominick-Hunter, Harrison, etc etc etc... you can ee above the only one I wouldn't use is the last one---properly regulate and use the correct size lines (3/8" minimum for most everything to minimize frictional losses) and there will be no need for that last abortion! I have the Brown Regulator on my wife's "Tire Compressor" which she also uses for the staple guns nail guns, and blowing up of balloons for the kiddies when they come over. The Orange one I use off my Devilbiss simply because it was easier to get than the Arrow Pneumatic one I wanted but was out of stock at the time... Laziness plays into many of my decisions, you see. What you may seriously want to consider is the refrigerated air dryer they sell, if you will be doing a lot of painting and are in a humid location (it never rains in Seattle, does it? LOL) the amount of moisture it will knock out will greatly help with paint quality. It will also decrease the moisture you get from your ratchets and impact guns when using them for extended periods (die grinder also comes to mind) Nice not to have wetness blowing all over the work... It will effectively give you a 35 degree dewpoint, so as long as you are working in 50-60 degree weather you should never have an issue with water in your air lines. But that may take some more setup on your part---generally when someone buys a dryer, I tell them to find an old compressor tank and run some air through the dryer, to the second tank (wet receiver and dry receiver)---this way you can blow off things like the floor with the wet tank, and use the dried air for tools and etc. Dry air makes for happy tools! And better paint jobs. Gee, you would think I work with compressors or something, huh? Have I talked to you about plumbing your garage with copepr hard piping and multiple hose barbs with quick disconnects? (Tim Allen Voice) Arr Arrr Arrrr!

I envy you. I miss Okinawa. I lived there for 5 Years, and have missed it since I left. Safe journey, for both your car and you!

The IMPCO systems and the Ford CNG/Propane-LPG systems all are vapor injection. They have fuel rail pressures in the range of 100 psi. Standard Bosch Style injectors used to flow on the average of around 1100CC/min fluid equivalent. Basically that's the difference, the flow because of gasseous versus liquid fuel. This is how GM makes the switchover, they flip a switch and you are running on gasoline but at way reduced spark timing and your idle quality generally degrades (imagine the idle quality for a 1000cc/min petrol injector!) The pros/cons come to fuel availability in your area, and BTU content of the gas. CNG has 1K BTU per CF, Propane something like 800 (if I recall correctly, feel free to correct me). So for a given cubic foot of volume, you will need around 28 CF of CNG to equal the content of one gallon of gasoline, and about 20% more propane/lpg. Where LPG/Propane shines is the fact that you can easily liquefy it, and store it in liquid form onboard...allowing a MUCH longer driving range than with gasseous fueled high pressure storage systems (CNG is stored onboard in cylinders at between 2400 and 3600psig---temperature compensated). You could get LNG (Liquid Natural Gas) but it's cryogenic temperatures, hundreds of degrees below zero, like LN2 or LOX. Not consumer friendly---but you will be amazed how many city busses and garbage trucks run LNG simply because they can go comparable distances as a Diesel Powered Counterpart. Really, Propane is really nice as a fuel, but if you live where it's cold, you need alternative fuel to start and get the vaporizer/tank heater going. At -30 or -40 the pressure in the tank may be too low for EFI to work properly. In extreme cases (remember I did the carb conversions in the 70's and 80's) the 3-5psi for carburettors could not even be obtained during winter, so they HAD to have a gasoline fuel option just to get it started and running! Same for my Alcohol Setup...wouldn't run when cold...bummer! One of the nice things is that CNG and Propane UNLIKE Biodiesel and recycled Vegtable Oil is currently EXEMPT from most taxes, so there's little chance of engine up owing someone back taxes for an illegal conversion (read about the green tree hugger in Berkley who just got nailed by the Feds for running vegetable oil in his Mercedes? $2500 Fine for not paying ROAD TAXES on a diesel fuel! And they reported him to the State, who nailed him as well! Running on vegetable oil is best done WITHOUT a "Ask me how I run my car on 100% recycled Vegetable Oil" Bumper Sticker---which is what got him nailed in the first place! Guy was paying 35% more for Vegetable oil from the store thinking he was doing a good thing for the planet, and the government nailed him on Tax Evasion... just like Capone! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!) I, er....Digress...

The LD28T has basically the same T3 that is on the gas engines, but with a .43 A/R on the turbine end... One of the older Datsun Modification books shows a 280Z with a Turbodiesel in it that was pumped to 180HP---which would be relatively comparable to a very strong stock petrol engine. This is why I wanted the Diesel Option in the Frontier. The 3.0 ZDI Turbodiesel has 170 HP (same as my Y2K Frontier's VG33) but has 280 Ft-Lbs of torque... In a truck, I don't need HP, I need TORQUE! Man, that 3.0 ZDI setup would tow my trailer perfectly... and with much less drama than the VG33 in there now...

With a screen name like nakagusukumike, are you going home Okinawa, or other island? I spent many a day flying and drifting up the road to the top of the hill where Nakagusuku was, and down the other side to Goya Tunings little Dyno Shop...and then down the highway to the Scrap Yards where engines were sold by wieght, and not avarice! LOL On the Gasoline Note, if you are pissing fuel out the weep hole, your diaphragm is torn, REPLACE THE PUMP! I almost lost my VW to a torn diaphragm, don't loose your ride for similar issues! That diaphragm will continue leaking, and the gas will force it's way somewhere it's not supposed to be---usually with catastrophic consequences!

Keep in mind, CNG conversions are subsidized in many states and through the Federal Government. You might be looking at Tax Credits for some of the costs associated with converting your vehicle! I would make the Greenies scream 'foul' but hey, that's what we're here for, right?